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Finally...success data logging...first time!! Now, what does it all mean? What are issues? and, more importantly, how to resolve them. All help and assistance appreciated!
The beginnings of this can be found in the thread http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...-Red-Blue-PCMs
Here are three saved data logs.
I thought I uploaded the files but don't see them here. Hopefully, they'll appear.
Ok, as you can see in the response above, the files did upload and appeared in my initial posting.
Here are some particulars regarding how these files were obtained.
Equipment: Moates AutoProm
Software: TunerPro RT
Files loaded:
AKDX 87 G-M-R-V Vav 4.3TBI 700r4.bin
$42 - 1227747-V5.9.3.xdf
$42 - 1227747-V5.2.adx
Confession: I am very new to using the AutoProm, laptop, and TunerPro RT software. Basically, all of the tuning technology and community terminology/lingo which you are at ease using are foreign to me; so, making assumptions that I understand obvious next steps will not be helpful. Please, I need detailed step-by-step instructions...sorry!
If what I uploaded is rubbish and I need to do something else, please let me know. Do I need to let the recording/log run longer? I tried to let the engine idle by removing my foot from the pedal but that wasn't possible, so there are a few revs in the log. Don't know if that is helpful or not.
Thank you in advance for looking at these logs.
After reading a few other threads on this site regarding to data logs, it made me realize that in addition to the data log files I should be uploading the specific files associated and used for obtaining the data log.
Here goes:
The data log #4 was obtained with only the .adx file loaded. The other files that TunerPro loads are also included.
I'm hoping that either Dave W, SixShooter, and/or Buddrow will chime in with assistance. Thanks
I'm going to watch this thread closely, as I am in the same boat. Thanks for starting this!
Welcome on board! The more brain cells we have in the mix, the better!
I have been doing a resto-mod of a '92 ext cab 4x4 S-10. I considered installing a small block but decided against it because of weight distribution concerns, specifically a heavy front end vs. a light rear end. Also, I didn't trust myself with having a heavy foot too many times. So, I opted to do a mild upgrade of the VIN Z 4.3L instead. In addition to .020 overbore with flat-top pistons, the 4.3 has a set of '96 Vortec heads, Edelbrock 2114 intake with a 1/2-inch carb-to-TBI adapter, Elgin Marine cam, 1.6:1 roller-rockers, and JBL shorty headers.
As an old school, carb guy, I was very close to trashing the whole project a few months ago. Learning and figuring out the intricacies of ECM tuning has been a major headache for several months. Originally, my plan was to swap my 160-baud, 4288 ECM for the 50x's faster 8625 PCM. Because of the internal processing speed, the 8625 would enable finer tuning of most parameters as well as enable the 8625 to control the dual electric fans and other mods in my S10. As you may know, this swap requires a connector change and itself would bring alongng more issues. Based on the advice of smarter guys than I who contribute their experience on this site, I have abandoned the ECM-to-PCM journey, maybe temporarily.
Look forward to seeing your contributions!:welcome:
handyman is the stock fuel pump still,you need to take it a short drive and get a longer data log.i like the didgatal dash it putting out too much fuel at idle which has to be adjusted in the chip its running at a higher map at idle the ve and timming tables need set.how many miles have you got on it sense modified?i didn't see no codes but it needs to run longer.:innocent::innocent:
Handyman, I've considered an ECM-PCM upgrade as well. It definitely does require repinning the connectors (and of course a change to different types of connectors). That's easy enough to do, but the reason I haven't done it yet is due to needing to get to work every day. At some point in the near future I'll take it down to a terminal strip so I can run both plugs so I can test one or the other module with just plugging it in. Once I have the PCM working, I'll be able to solder everything and tuck it back under the dash.
I just conquered a pretty major exhaust leak (why, oh why, do I always put manifolds on the engine AFTER it's back in the vehicle?). I'm having an issue with manifold bolts backing out, so I will be upgrading to safety-wire drilled exhaust manifold bolts soon. For now I have hardeneed flat washers, lock washers, loctite Blue, and red RTV on the job. They appear to be doing the job well, as I have no exhaust leaks at present. If the red RTV should fail, I'll go to the copper stuff when I do the lockwire, and never deal with it again.
Of course, the y-pipe from the 4.3 I cobbled into 5.7 duty, has rust perforation.. and I am not a fan of coping exhaust tubing. So I'm going to run true duals down the passenger side, with the mufflers stood on end. Normally there would be concerns with heat due to closer proximity to the body- but I'm running a 2" body lift to clear the tranny (I pushed the 5.7 back as far as I possibly could), and those Airbake cookie sheets at Walmart make *fantastic* muffler/catcon heat shields. ;)
Anthony:
Yes, if I remember correctly, the fuel pump I installed was a stock replacement. Glad you can see and confirm that there is too much fuel. Interesting that there isn't a code being displayed for that.
I don't have any plates so haven't taken truck on road for longer data log. Also, Hawaii requires all vehicles have annual safety checks as well and those requirements need to be met before runs on the highway are possible. Both are current barriers but I will try to figure out something. When you say the logs need to be longer, should those logs also include varying levels of RPM and WOT for a few seconds maybe? Do you think I could cheat and simulate those conditions without taking it on the road? But I guess, there also should be examples of shift points to really get this tuned. This certainly is a work in progress!!
89S10_Project:
Your idea of doing an adapter (2 black connectors on one end and red/blue on other) is exactly what I have done myself. It all makes so much sense to have one of those so as to be able to switch back and forth between PCM to ECM in the event of a problem. Or like in your case, have access to a daily driver. The dilemma or problem I have run into is with using the pin out diagrams/listings shared on this site, there appears to be a problem since I can't get the motor to start let alone run. Thus far, the first problem appears to be with the fuel circuit since the motor will fire and run if I use starter fluid or pour fuel into the TBI.
I feel your pain regarding header bolts backing out; that is always a problem. I suspect at some point I will have to confront that issue myself. Regarding the exhaust pipe on my ride, I bought a new 4.3 Y-pipe and settled for a single exhaust. Besides, the gas tank on the driver's side represents a major stumbling block if opting for long tube headers and true dual exhaust. So, my installing polished-ceramic, JBA shorty headers was not based on performance enhancements but just bragging rights and WOW-factor in engine compartment. :wtg: Also, as another adolescent move, I installed an exhaust cut-off right behind the cat converter and in front of my 60-series Flowmaster muffler. To make room for the muffler and cut-off in close proximity, I had to angle my muffler a bit so thanks for the tip about cookie sheets from Walmart serving as heatshields...I may look into that. It never dawned on me to deal with exhaust heating up the cab since my truck is at stock 4x4 height.
Are we having FUN yet???
it should have picked up the egr that I forgot to disable so it really hadn't run long enough to pick up codes.you are going to put that zif socket in one or the other ecms and plug the ap in. pretty basic, wont idle add 100 rpms. :innocent::innocent: if you wish when you get it hooked up I will call or you call me with tp I think you have to comitt change with tp.it's instantaneous once it's commited. or get a long data log and post it I will change your file and repost it almost as fast, somehow eagle mark was tunning peoples things and he wasn't there. handy ididn't mean that as it sounds[you need too install the zif socket].he was tuning via host pc and with2 for instance of tuner pro open one to change bin files one to data log.
Anthony,
Today, I successfully installed a modified 28-pin ZIF based on Dave W's instructions in '7747 Flash Chip Conversion (27SF512). Kept my fingers crossed that I had NOT fried anything in the ECM while desoldering the 24-pin socket and soldering in the ZIF. I lthen loaded an EEPROM that I had burned with the AKDW bin. I really didn't know what I was doing when I made two mods...hi way lean and EGR delete. Engine started and ran fine; I did several start-ups to get the ECM to "learn" whatever it needed. After a few minutes with temps up over 150 degrees and idling around 750, the idle dropped and motor died. I restarted a few times with the same results.
With the 28-pin ZIF installed, I will now be able to do emulation but need to do some serious reading to figure out what exactly I need to do. Don't want to fiddle around without knowing what I am doing.
Thanks for your help. I will be packing up and returning all of the stuff you've been so kind to send. Hope your wife is doing better!!
handy glad you are making progress. try plugging in that data log cable I first sent and see if the ftd driver will pick it up, if it does you can data log an eluminate at the same time. my wife went back to texas to see her old doctor he worked on what is wrong with her about 6 years ago.