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It's easy.
Step 1. Remove the old chip.
Step 2. Install and Solder the DIP Socket
Step 3. Install the 27SF512 Chip
Step 4. Install the Memcal Cover.
Step 5. Program 27SF512 Chip using Moates.Net HDR1 Memcal Header http://www.moates.net/hdr1-memcal-heade ... l?cPath=64"
dave w
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...WRpYS8xNDg.jpg
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...WRpYS8xNTA.jpg
This applies to more than just the 16197427.
The same technique can be used for the 1227730, 1227749, 1227727, 1227165, and similar ECMs. Basically any ECM that uses a MEMCAL that looks like the one above, this can be used.
Nice work! :wtg:
i do this all the time in place of using a G1 or anything like that.... much cheaper.
unless it's a situation where i want to use multiple BINs on one chip, then i pretty much have to grab a G3 especially if i'm running a 64KB BIN.
I got the chip cut out, can press in a socket or ZIF, but where do you solder? Seems impossible to get to legs of socket without melting plastic holder?
I'm pretty tired and it may look better tomorrow...
You have to use a fine tip soldering iron.
Got that, and glasses and a magnifying glass...
From top sides?
I don't use a ZIF. I use the Moates.net HRD1 adapter http://www.moates.net/hdr1-memcal-heade ... l?cPath=64 The HRD1 adapter allows the chip to be erased / flashed in the memcal. It might even be possible to directly solder the 27SF512 into the memcal, but I don't know how much heat the 27SF512 can handle?
dave w
That's what I've done on several MEMCALs. I've never had a problem with heat affecting the EEPROMs, but I do apply just enough heat for just long enough to get a small solder pool on each leg to form.Quote:
Originally Posted by dave w
Ha! I pulled the socket out and put in a chip last night (Before Six Shooters post) and was going to solder this morning. With the socket and chip it hits the Knock board, chip alone is clear.
As Six Shooter has verified I thought the chip would be OK if you take care to not overheat since guys are soldering on wires across legs on chip anyway. I do plan on moving around, front, back, middle, side to side, maybe a cool down just in case. Instead of just soldering legs one by one next to each other down the row.
I did that mod where I sodered a strand of wire onto the legs of the 27sf512 chip before I was brave enough to soder on my ecm. I just wrapped the wire around the legs and sodered away. Chip still works to this day and I have used it many times over, and still keep it as a backup chip. The heat didnt seem to bother it any.
Well early this morning I had time to give it a shot. But like suggested in this thread it may be possible to just solder in a chip without a socket, so I installed the chip and there was more room to solder than if I had used a socket. Chip also cleared knock module. When done I used the Moates HRD1 header and burned a file onto the chip. Verified by reading the chip into buffer and verified. All is well!
I have an old Hako 936 soldering station that we bought for doing RC Rock Crawlers about 9 years ago and since then it has made all soldering chores a breeze. It has instant heat recovery when you touch your soldering parts and you can also change heat settings but I have gotten used to 750 degree F. I used my tinyist soldering iron tip stuck down the hole the chip leg goes into, worked like a charm. I use a flux core solder but I think next time I may put a small dab of flux in each hole, on leg and the heat time to flow solder would be reduced further. HTH! :happy:
Kid stole my camera for his weekend trip...
I frequently solder in ZIF sockets. What I've found is that carefully grinding the lower edges of the socket at an ange allows more room to work with the iron without hitting plastic. I've also found that it's important to draw solder up the legs of the socket to ensure a solid connection. I used to put some urethane or silicone sealer in the center of the socket but after getting faulty socket and having to split and clean off the sealer before installing the new one I decided to forego that step. I also remove the knock board, use needle nose pliers to gently twist the legs 90 degrees, put a small dogleg in each one, then re-install the board. This gives the socket a little more clearance. I also pull one memcal lock out of the socket on the board, on the same end as the socket, so the memcal can be fully pressed into the socket. Then I remove any foam or cork inside the cover before installing it. The cover puts some pressure on the memcal so the missing lock isn't a problem. Works great.
I done this a half a dozen times with the 1227165 tpi maf memcals. I have used moates d2 and aries low profile dips maybe the same thing, not sure. If I try to reprogram a uv eprom in the memcal/adapter I get some strange readings and it will not reprogram. Seems to work flawlessly once reprogramed outside the memcal and inserted. I do have to take the ridges out of the blue memcal cover to get it to snap on.