Just plugged it in to the car and nothing. Quickly just checked and I thinks its just a fuse, gotta head out for birthday lunch with the missus and then will figure out whats going on and let you know, fingers crossed tho. Thanks again :)
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Just plugged it in to the car and nothing. Quickly just checked and I thinks its just a fuse, gotta head out for birthday lunch with the missus and then will figure out whats going on and let you know, fingers crossed tho. Thanks again :)
Hi LRT,
It is so close to starting, but just not quite there.
I'm gonna try adjusting the dizzy slightly to see if I can correct it, but is it possible for you to copy the L31 spark tables from this .BIN into my one?
Someone mentioned the SBC needs a bit more timing than the LS1.
It runs it runs it runs!!!!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08F3poNtivo
Checked yesterday and the timing is pretty rough, and it looks to be sitting around 5degrees at start and then slowly climbs to around 20 as a apply throttle and the motor warms up. Does this need to be adjusted in the tune or by moving the distributor?
I had this response from one of the guys on thirdgen forums:
Are you able to either drop the other spark tables in or adjust these on my tune LRT? :) :) :)Quote:
Timing table you are looking at 34-36 deg at wot, 36-38 cruise areas, and 25-26 ish idle. In 411, the table is based on grams airflow per cycle or so. A na motor typically sees .80 or so gram/cycle. I would have to double check my logs but the max value of 1.2 i hit at 3-4 psi boost by 3600-3800 rpm so i think na motors see .80-.90 and not much more. I'll confirm that later
In general stock ls1 timingtable could be used but add 3-4 deg to it in the higher rpm higher flow areas as a ls1 sees best power around 26-28 deg while a sbc typically is 34-36. Ls1 cruisetimingcould be used. Idle areas may need increased due to larger cam
You originally asked for help to get the car running, so you could then take it somewhere to have it dyno tuned.Quote:
Originally Posted by evilstuie
You chose to use an EFILive COS - for which there is no XDF available. Had you used 2001 operating system 12202088, then you could have used the only OBD2 XDF created, and used Tunerpro to adjust things in the tune.
It is not really a DIY (do-it-yourself) project, when you ask someone else to do the tuning for you.
Altering the spark tables, by working in the raw binary code, would be quite a bit of work. I don't think you realize the amount of time it would take to do what you are asking.
Hey mate, sorry I assumed you were using some other software so you could just copy and paste the tables into excel, make the changes by formula and paste back into the tune file. I didn't know you were editing the tune in hex.Quote:
Originally Posted by LRT
I didn't choose the COS3, it was the OS that was on the 3rd PCM I'd bought to try and get the car running. I had the 1074 OS which had XDFs, but Dimented's LS1 Flash tool bricked them both when trying to change to a different OS, so I was stuck with what I got.
With COS3, it's a modified version of the 12225074 OS yes?Would there be much involved in modifying the XDF for this to work with COS3?
First, a couple of assumptions. That you already have an accurate XDF for 12225074, and that this XDF also correctly calculates the segment Checksums.Quote:
Originally Posted by evilstuie
Then, you would need to determine which parameters in the XDF are no longer used by the COS, and delete these parameters from the XDF.
Then, you would need to determine which parameters in the XDF have been altered (rescaled or repurposed) by the COS, and adjust the definition of these parameters in the XDF.
Then, you would need to locate and define all of the new parameters in the calibration created by the COS, and add these new parameter definitions (flags / scalars / tables) to the XDF.
If it was me I'd remove the chip(s) and burn on a supported OS, then resolder them on.
Since you have multiple bricks, seems like logical way to get 'em all back to operational?
If you choose an OS with an .xdf tuning could then be DIY
Babywag,That was my initial plan, but the programmer I bought (TL866) didn't come with the right adapter, and the BDM programmer I bought was only for 16bit controllers not the 32bit Motorola chip so I lost the energy to continue.I might see if I can get the adaptor and give it a try.
Ok, sounds like a lot more than I thought.I think I'll just have to put my car on hold until I can save up enough for EFILive. My plan was to take the car to a tuner to put on the dyno, but that is going to cost me at minimum $1000AUD, which would be fine if that was it.But I need to have the motor properly run in and have it able to idle long enough to check things like thermo fans kicking in, check for oil leaks, and all that, otherwise I'll take it to the dyno, they'll spend a day trying to tune it and at the end of the day come back to me and say there's something wrong or the plugs are fouled or the motor cooked, and take my $1000 as well.With 1500rpm the timing sits around 25 and sounds really good, but at idle its jumping between -8 and 12 and cuts out without throttle.Quote:
Originally Posted by LRT
My two cents, would be what Babywag suggested - move to a 2001 OS (12202088 or 12208322) and tune it yourself, using TunerPro and the XDF and Checksum Plug-in that I posted. Dimented24x7's flash tool will work with either of those OS.
Dyno tunes aren't cheap - typical prices here begin at $650, but you are usually closer to $1000 by the time all of the issues in a conversion project are addressed.
The XDF that started this topic is not available anymore. Could somebody please re-post it?
Uploaded again. Holy thread hijack!
Hello i have posted this in wrong area > So i am looking for a XDF File for 1344 Os for a 4896 pcm out of a 2000 silverado with a 5.3l lm7 with a 4l60e m30 4x4 > Or question 2 is can i just flash 2088 ,or 3372, or some other 0411 OS that is close to my pcm ????? > Is 4896 pcm not worth hassle to just go pull a 0411 and be done