24 to 28 pin adapter (G2)

What exactally does the G2 do other than convert from a 24 to 28 pin chip ?

What I mean is , does it internally short pins 1,2,28,27 and 26 on the board , or is their something else on the board .

Reason I ask is I want to use my Autoprom on a 7747 today , and I would have to order a G2 to do so the proper way . Just wondering if I could make something up quick.

Thanks

TOM

Yes the G2 sets up the pins correctly for 28 pin chip.

Quick is easy for 1227747 with AutoProm. Open AutoProm and move jumper from 28 to 24 pin.

Then slide a 24 pin dip into stock chip location, or cut off couple pins from 28 pin dip and plug in the Zif socket.

I have a 28 pin zif socket and 24 pin dip on bottom to slide into stock chip socket, extra pins from Zif are all clear. Then make sure you get red stripe lined up with pin one/notch.

Then if you have burner and old UV erase chips you can install final tune in stock ECM.

While we are here the picture on Moates website that indicates switch needs to be out for 160 Baud is wrong. If it is out you will apply 10K resistance and be in ALDL mode which really messes up idle and timing...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EagleMark

Yes the G2 sets up the pins correctly for 28 pin chip.

Quick is easy for 1227747 with AutoProm. Open AutoProm and move jumper from 28 to 24 pin.

Then slide a 24 pin dip into stock chip location, or cut off couple pins from 28 pin dip and plug in the Zif socket.

I have a 28 pin zif socket and 24 pin dip on bottom to slide into stock chip socket, extra pins from Zif are all clear. Then make sure you get red stripe lined up with pin one/notch.

Then if you have burner and old UV erase chips you can install final tune in stock ECM.

While we are here the picture on Moates website that indicates switch needs to be out for 160 Baud is wrong. If it is out you will apply 10K resistance and be in ALDL mode which really messes up idle and timing...

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O.K. then ,

I guess I have to ask , why is the G2 out there if it is this easy ........ :thumbsup:

I moved the jumper to the 24 pin setting inside of the Autoprom , I modified a 28 pin dip socket to 24 pin to insert into the stock ECM and still take the Autoprom's 28 pin cable on top .

Red stripe gets lined up with the pin 1 / notch on the modified dip socket . Will the Autoprom since it is now set to 24 pin now use only the correct 24 pins of the cable , it would go to reason it would but I just want to be sure as in thoery pins 13,14,15,16 of the original 28 pin termination will not connect to anything.

Or am I just making this harder than it is ?

Sorry for all of the questions , I can't remember the last time I played with a 7747 ..... Think I burned the chip with my Pocket programmer.......

Thanks

TOM

The G2 is there to get out of the UV erase chips. I'd guess if there was a 24 pin replacement EEPROM then this would never have happened?

It's been awhile since I've done this but yes I think your making it harder then it is. Just line up red stripe to notch/Pin 1 and don't worry about extra 4 pins hanging out when jumper set to 24 pin.

Cool,

Thanks again Mark :jfj:

TOM

Here's what I have, a 24 pin dip on back of a 28 pin zif and it plugs right into 1227747.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...1&d=1337103388

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...1&d=1337103388

You operate your Autoprom in the center setting of the vertical switch for the 7747 ? (No connection between A-B)

TOM

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nasty-Z

You operate your Autoprom in the center setting of the vertical switch for the 7747 ? (No connection between A-B)

TOM

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Looking at switches, both to left. Left switch left, opisite of what AutoProm directions say or you will cause 10K resistence and be in ALDL mode which causes higer idle more timing and makes tuning impossible.

Now this is all with 28 pin chip. So I don't know if the 160 baud position/10K is maybe needed to emulate 24 pin? Been awhile since I did this. I have an email into Moates about this to find out if that was needed from earlier days when AutoProm was not in an enclosure and people knew about the 24-28 pin jumper. Or it's just a mistake? Using 10K for 160 Baud on 28 pin is wrong! Using 10K to data log without emulation on stock 24 pin chip is wrong! I don't have time to test today or would have had it done by now...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EagleMark

Looking at switches, both to left. Left switch left, opisite of what AutoProm directions say or you will cause 10K resistence and be in ALDL mode which causes higer idle more timing and makes tuning impossible.

Now this is all with 28 pin chip. So I don't know if the 160 baud position/10K is maybe needed to emulate 24 pin? Been awhile since I did this. I have an email into Moates about this to find out if that was needed from earlier days when AutoProm was not in an enclosure and people knew about the 24-28 pin jumper. Or it's just a mistake? Using 10K for 160 Baud on 28 pin is wrong! Using 10K to data log without emulation on stock 24 pin chip is wrong! I don't have time to test today or would have had it done by now...

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Mark,
Did you ever hear back from Moates on this? Also, my APU1 is the older model (Ver 1.7 from 2-13-15) with the firewire and it has a 3-way vertical switch and a 2-way horizontal switch. What settings should these be on?

Thanks

I just don't know? Never had one. But I can say with the newer one you can do whatever you want with the switches and it won't hurt anything! Just won't work.

Load the bin file, verify, emulate and turn key on= no start. CEL should come on, blink and stay on till you start motor then go off. If so emulation is working.

If you get it emulating then check your ADX data log file and make sure ALDL is off, but since you have Corvette in your name and I don't know what ECM you using sometimes 10K is needed to flow data, then turn off.