I started a swap on my 87 tbi truck cam is going to be 214/224 .443/.465 112. I have a basic vortec tune found on this site flashed to a chip, think this will allow the engine to run with this setup?
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I started a swap on my 87 tbi truck cam is going to be 214/224 .443/.465 112. I have a basic vortec tune found on this site flashed to a chip, think this will allow the engine to run with this setup?
I think it should run but likely run rich, especially at idle.
Unless you have a set of vortec heads, it will suck. The timing tables will be all wrong
Then it will actually run fair. It will take a tune to wake up though. Not a lot of lift, but enough duration you may need to bump idle.
Which would be better for cam break in stock tune or the tune Dave W. Posted for vortecs?
The timing tables is a very important parameter. I'm not sure which tune I posted you are referring to, if the posted tune has the stock Vortec timing table from a Vortec black box PCM it will work better than the stock TBI timing table.
Typically the stock Vortec timing table can be improved when tuning.
dave w
This one maybe??? I've cut and paste known Vortec/LT1 spark tables into my tunes. Not perfect but gets you started.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...tec-shortblock
Standard disclaimer ... Likely goes without saying, but here goes anyway ... The .bin files I've posted work well for the vehicle it was originally "Tuned" for. Individual "Tuning" results can / will vary. There is always possibly of damage or personal injury. Use posted .bin files at "Your Own Risk".
Always use a Wide Band Oxygen Sensor when "Tuning". When playing poker, trust everyone at the table, but it's a good plan to "Cut the Deck".
Considering the expensive nature of building an engine, why would anyone not use a Wide Band Oxygen Sensor when starting up / breaking in a new engine?
The "Ultimate EFI Modification" is spelled "Tuning".
dave w
Most wide band O2 sensors (WBO2) have a warm up time of about 30 seconds. Connecting the WBO2 to ignition power with power in both "on" & "start" is a good plan. With "Key On / Engine Off" for about 30 seconds will have the WBO2 warmed upped and ready to go when the engine is "cranking / started".
The narrow band O2 is usually showing BLM = 128 until the computer goes into closed loop. Usually, the .bin files are programmed for closed loop after the engine reaches 135 degrees Fahrenheit.
dave w
Quick video of it idling with iac disconnected.
https://youtu.be/sqDFiFHjTEM
fixed shitty link
Here is the data log of the cam break in.
Someone correct me if I am wrong on this
VE = base fuel map
AE = Part throttle acceleration MAP/Modifiers
PE = WOT fuel MAP/Modifiers
Datalog looks very rich and your IAC counts looks weird starts high in the beginning and at the end it settles down to zero??? If you can get it to idle decently, consider doing this: http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...-Fuel-Pressure
The issue with the IAC is what I am trying to fix, not sure what is going on with it. I changed the VE1 corrected table and got it to idle and start better but now it dies when i put it in gear.
added some fuel to get it to run in gear, took it to the gas station to fill it back up and noticed it was way rich at cruising rpm to and from the station. Multiplied the 1200+ rpm blocks on the map by .75 to reduce the amount of fuel in it and quick burn and drove it home, BLMs were in the 135 range, o2 voltage bounced between .350 and .550 on the trip home last Sat. It has set without being touched since its single digits here, I decided to put a battery tender on it while it sits and I decided to start it. Turned over a few times then fired right up without an issue, I must not be messing it up to bad. Headed on vacation for a week will be back tuning it once I get back, hopefully warmer also.
A few questions... What ECM are you using? Is it a 1227747? Can you post your bin file? Do you have the park/neutral switch input wired to the ecm? If you post your bin, the xdf, and adx file you are using to datalog with, people on the forum will be able to better help you.
Brian
In the spark advance table that area between 30-35 kpa, I'd change everything less than 20d to match adjacent cell. Target idle rpm is set at 700 rpm but your cam might be happier at 750 rpms. In the 30-50kpa 800-1200 rpm fatten VE by 5%.
Also your datalog occasionally flashed "Air Diverter"...Adjusting-VE-Fueling-tables-with-BLM-data-Tutorial!
I think your exhaust smelled rich due to not having enough timing. Not enough advance, combustion cycle isn't completed on power stroke sending raw fuel out the pipe. Something that I noticed that I never paid much attention to on the last vehicle I tuned, your MAP at idle hits the 30 kpa range so yeah it's using the 16d of advance which IMO should be in the 20s. Also either your engine pulls a lot of vacuum or your MAP sensor is lying. While not having to deal with it, what elevation are you at?
Crap I had a hunch that it might be the way you're hooking up to your ALDL port, but I assumed you knew what you were doing. :mad1: So did you adjust that down from 1000 rpms or did you remove the 10k resistor from the equation?
Click on the link^^^I provided above...only $6E needs the 10k resistor.