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needs a bin to get me going I have a 1995 corvette with 383 stroker flat top forged pistons 11.4 to 11.5 compression ratio. Cam is custom 226/234 duration @.50 525/525 life on 1.5rr stock 3.07 gear 4l60 2200 stall no o2 sensor or maf it’s on a SD tune with stock motor and the cam I played with for awhile but new set up is way different need some help thanks. Idk if anyone still even dose tunes on these cars anymore lol :mad1::laugh:
Gearhead-efi link to LT1 .bin files: http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...rmation-EE-EEB
Additional LT1 information available at EEHack: http://fbodytech.com/eehack-2/
dave w
Hi
There's a couple of us on here. Checkout Steveo's EEHack pages. That's pretty much all you'll need.
Mitch
max ve table is 7000 can I edit xdf and add 7500 so I can pull to 7200 rpms
My question is why delete the MAF and 02s? Get a LS3/LS7 cartridge style and a matching 4" spectre housing. Then get a matching 4" lamnier screen. Install in a 4" air intake. Then put the 02 sensors back on. I have run a 232/244 @ 0.050 cam on a 108 LSA with 02 sensors without issue.
Cause the headers did not have o2 bungs and no one around me could weld then I have always tuned my cars in the past by reading plugs but I am getting o2 bung flanges that’s why I was asking for help on a starter tune. I don’t no anything about maf tuning or o2 sensor tuning. I am old school tune by feel listen and plugs
you ain't no older school than me and many others. Step into the 90's and learn how to tune. Sheesh. Listen to Fast and I'll post a MAF table for a 4" tube and cartridge, Or just use a stock 453 gram maf from a 2001 truck, if you can manage to max that one, then convert to cartridge. I doubt your 383 will max that maf. Sorry for bluntness.
lol your good man just learning the tuner pro it’s pretty awesome program and the eehack I read my plugs regardless lol they can tell you a lot
Shoot, I'm jealous of you guys that have a Lt1 and use steveo's stuff, it looks like it rocks. When I started tuning in the 90's we worked in hex, there was no software. You truly couldn't charge enough. Good luck on your project and yep, reading plugs is an art all by itself. Luckily I've been crackin at this since I was ~12 :)
Quote:
When I started tuning in the 90's we worked in hex, there was no software. You truly couldn't charge enough.
Some of the tools here were highly advanced compared to the "Hex Method."
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...cal-Reference&
I picked up where someone else left off on the old 299 ECMs $99 code in my old TBI powered G20. I used a partial hack and used a motorola dissasembler and compiler back in the day.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1project2many
Need some help I got green giant 42ib/hr injectors from corvette mods and was wondering if y’all no anyone with some offset data so I can get them tuned better I currently have setting from Ford lighting green tops but having trouble starting up when motor is warmed up. Thanks
280 155 968
Specifications;
42lb/hr @ 43.5 PSI
EV6 Body Type
Bosch EV1 Mini-timer Connector
Resistance: 14 Ohms
Voltage: 8-15 Volts, nominal 13.5 Volts
1 Amp output
Pressure, Min: 30PSIG / Max: 100PSIG
O-Rings Included
Filter Basket with four-hold disc fuel delivery nozzle
pretty common bosch injector, try these, stole from TGO: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...iii-42-lb.html
Minimum PW @ 44 psi: 1.173
Offset Compensation versus Battery Voltage:
6.4 Volts: 4285 usec
8.0 Volts: 2168 usec
9.6 Volts: 1465 usec
11.2 Volts: 1096 usec
12.8 Volts: 839 usec
14.4 Volts: 655 usec
15.0 Volts: 596 usec
Short PW Compensation versus Pulse Width:
0.015 msec: -118 usec
0.244 msec: -101 usec
0.488 msec: -82 usec
0.732 msec: -64 usec
0.976 msec: -46 usec
1.220 msec: -27 usec
1.460 msec: -10 usec
1.708 msec: 0 usec
1.950 msec: 0 usec
2.197 msec: 0 usec
2.440 msec: 0 usec
2.685 msec: 0 usec
2.929 msec: 0 usec
3.170 msec: 0 usec
3.410 msec: 0 usec
3.660 msec: 0 usec
3.900 msec: 0 usec
if you need help reproducing the data in cells that make sense in EE try this tool: http://drr.ikcest.org/app/s2852
i never really bother tuning the offsets below 9v i just leave the table flat there (since the engine will run like a bag of crap at that low voltage anyway)
Ok cool that’s what I have but wasn’t sure if I put in the offset correct when I save it it automatically puts in a number on the voltage offset. The offset adder I but - numbers and it goes straight to zero
Hiya, it's amazing how different harness's will vary the offsets too, so adjust accordingly. There is no magic number.
I can’t figure out how to use that calculator deal to understand the data for ee
With that data my IPW is 9.55 at 6500 wot
precision is something you learn about, and too much of it will slow you down
i see you've realized that in tunerpro, a lot of the time the value you enter doesn't end up exact when it's saved to the bin.
that's because tunerpro allows you to enter pretty much anything (like 1.234) where in reality the value in your bin is usually in 8 bit (only 256 possible values) or 16 bits (only 65536 possible values) and can't be that precise, so when you save, close the table, and then re-open it, you'll see the 'real' value.
tunerpro doesn't really do a good job of presenting that limitation when you're entering data but that's okay because it stops you being distracted by unnecessary precision.
it's really common that you get some data that you need to set a value to 1.234 but the ECM's code only allows it to be 1 or something, and in those cases you get what you get
so, lets see how your tables ended up?
an engine like this at wide open throttle isn't a very precise machine with regards to fuel. in my experience injector voltage offsets make barely any difference to how your engine runs at very high airflows
Thanks for the reply makes a lot of sense. The motor runs great just recent after injector change idle has been a tough one in park it’s great but when I put in gear is a different story but I guess it could be my TB not letting enough air pass so I been looking into that also. I have noticed if I run the factory offset it is more drivable so that is the road I have taken. Thank you for taking the time to help me out I have learn a lot from the program and the eehack program. I also have a engine dyno program that helps me with fine tuning my VE table that really has made a difference. Next week I’ll know for sure how great my tune is as I will be strapping it down on a real dyno to see what my numbers are and afr mixture really is. I do know it’s putting down some power I give the new mustangs a run for there money at are not stock lol.
idle on an LT1 is really annoying to deal with, you need to get most of your air through the idle passages in your plenum rather than your throttle plates. they run best when you keep the plates totally shut and the IAC counts up. a 383 usually needs the idle air hole in the throttle body enlarged a bit. use eehack to mess with your timing advance at idle to see what it likes too. also don't be afraid to just increase your idle speed a bit until it behaves...