Flashing pcm with stock bin

hey guys, new to tuning and the TunerRT program. I am needing to flash a stock bin onto a pcm that I bought from a 95 caprice to my 94 z28. Will this program do this? If so can I have a little help with it. i have done extensive reading on this site about the different files and how to open them with TunerRT. I have a 94 stock z28 bin file, and have downloaded the $EE adf and xdf files and have them loaded onto the program. What do I need to do from here? Or what can I do from here? I know that this program can tune and do all sorts of other things with the programming on the pcm, and would love to learn how to do these things. But for now I really need to get the 95 pcm flashed with my 94 stock bin so I can get my car running again.

Thanks a bunch.

The 94 and 95 are more like OBDII, you flash the PCM with a cable hooked to ALDL port. Need a program called WinFlash from TunerCat to do so.

TunerPro can still be used to make the changes and save the bin file. But TunerCat is how to flash to PCM.

That's what I have heard :( So will I have to buy the $EE definition file they sell for use with the program or can I use one from this site? As I said I do have a stock bin that I got from another tuner. Sorry for the dumb questions, just trying to wrap my brain around this whole tuning and flashing process. One more question, once I do figure out how to make changes, and decide to do it, will TunerPro be able to write it to the pcm or will I still need TunerCat for this?

Also I do have the ALDL cable.

TunerPro RT $EE XDF definition for bin adjustments and ADX for data logging. Only thing it won't do is flash, so you need TunerCat WInFlash, it's only $20. You do need an ALDL cable.

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Originally Posted by EagleMark

TunerPro RT $EE XDF definition for bin adjustments and ADX for data logging. Only thing it won't do is flash, so you need TunerCat WInFlash, it's only $20. You do need an ALDL cable.

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So I only need WinFlash and not TunerCAt? Or do I need the whole TunerCat Program and the $EE twenty dollar definition file? Basically just curious of if I have to purchase their $EE file or not. It's not much but if I don't need it in conjunction with using TunerPro RT, I don't want to buy it. If I do need it I will buy it. Sorry for my confusion, I am simply trying to flash my pcm at this point without having to wait until Mon. or Tues to get a file from TunerCat!

Just WinFlash.

You sir, are the man!!

Ok I have WinFlash from TunerCat, I'm sure you have to go through this a lot so I'm sorry in advance for my ignorance! Can you please walk me through what I need to do to flash my pcm? I have the TunerPro opened, loaded my stock bin file, and also have loaded the xdf file and adx file I got from this site. I'm not ready to try to change anything as far as tuning, just want to flash stock program for 94 z28 on 95 caprice pcm. Thank you for helping me, sorry for the bother.

I might have figured it out, I can just load my stock bin file onto winflash and program directly from there, correct? I loaded the bin file and hit program and it popped up the screen about shutting off screen saver, blah blah blah. So I'm ready to go now?

Right!

TunerPro will do the adjustments to bin and data log. TunerCat Winflash will do the read and flash.

There are precations. Full charge battery on car, full charge on laptop. Battery chargers on either can cause issues. Make sure everything on car is off, screen saver or ? Does not become active during flash.

About the hardest part of Winflash is setting up com port. Have to look in your device manager to see what Com port USB went to? Get that Com Port and enter it in WInFlash.

I used the bin file I had once, car wouldn't start. Used the bin file I got off of this old site for a BKNF pcm, car wouldn't start. Both times the program had no trouble running through programming, said was complete, turned off ign. unhooked cable, no start? Do I need to program my VIN into it for it to work correctly? If so how do I determine the model number, I have to have that in order to changethe VIN in Winflash.

No I've run the wrong VIN... maybe the PCM you put in was bad? I've put VIN from Chevy truck that LT1 was in and worked... but you have a 94 Z28 so put the correct VIN in.

You have the stock bin right?

Batt in car and laptop charged?

Turn key on, no start, does CEL come on, blink and stay on? If so flash was good!

Why did you need a new PCM? Now you still have issues? Is it a VATS issue? Turn off VATS in TunerPro, save bin, always save bin after changes with new name, TP recalculates Checksum, and reflash and try to start.

I have two stock bins, one is 94 z28 Auto. with 2.73 gears, and other one is bin for BKNF I got from here. I think my computer has a short in it after weeks of testing wires and sensors, numerous part replacemants, and the dreaded opti replacement. Car would run great until entering closed loop, then would run rich and die promptly after with no warning. Also with key on, after it dies, my rpm gauge goes all wacky and just about every sensor or solenoid on the engine starts chattering and clicking, as well as the injectors!!! This is why I haven't tried to read my original pcm yet, don't want to cause problems with another one. Got this pcm from the 95 caprice, hooked it up and it ran just very rough and kept wanting to bog down. So now I am trying to flash my stock programming on the pcm. Did you have any clue about the model number that goes along with my VIN in winflash?

By the way my gear ratio is 3.23 I believe, has GU5 in glove box.

I believe the model number is the BCC ? I've never changed one. But they do change when you flash in a new bin file IIRC... either way that is not your issue.

So is the car still acting up with new PCM?

Have you read the codes yet to see what is failing? There is an ADX file for TunerPro RT to read data and codes.

I'd read the PCM that came with car, just turn key on, read, don't run. Flash it into new PCM but you'll still have to change VIN when done. Must turn key off for awhile after flash and VIN change before starting so PCM can reset. Be way faster then trying to get all the tranny gear change MPH settings, speedo, VSS settings correct. And IIRC the Camaro Z28 has one knock sensor and B body has 2, so bins are different for knock settings, double check the knock module under the cover with two torx screws and see if they are the same? I think they are.

But at this point if it's running? You would be better off with the bin that came with car. Then read codes and data to see what is wrong?

This is where I am at after doing a datalog, uploading to another forum, having two people look over them and both not really seeing anything out of the ordinary. Car has now been sitting for a month after being a daily driver for around a year, I just got it last year. I was able to read my pcm that came with my car, and was able to successfully program my actual stock bin to it as well as change the VIN. Haven't tried to crank her yet, kind of late when I finished everything, neighbors can be a$$#oles in the evening!! I will post results in the morning.

On another note, I made a copy of my stock bin so I could use it to check out the different features in TunerPro. I would like to tune out the o2's and the VATS system. I see under the flags the VATS select and VATS diagnostics, do I need to turn both of these off? I also see the left and right o2's with three flags each, rich-lean-and sensor failure, do I need to turn all of these off?

Thanks a million for you expertise.

Yes, 2 for VATS and 6 total for O2 sensors. You also have to physically disconnect the O2 sensors. Although the O2 sensors work pretty good, not sure why you'd want to remove them unless your going to tune it with a Wide Band O2 sensor.

when tuning out the vats do I need to unplug the module for it or leave it? My security light still comes on, but now flashes.

All the VATS bit unchecked does is stop PCM from turning off fuel if VATS fails. The VATS system is still intact. Not sure on the Camaro Z28 but on B body Impala/Caprice if VATS fails it also does not crank over, there is a starter relay.

It takes about 5 minutes for VATS to reset if the key is wrong or the contacts in key switch are bad. There is a way to measure resistance of key and bypass key switch by installing resisters in wiring eliminating the resistance needed from key, which must match VATS module.

Went back to original tune from my pcm, car cranked right up, ran for 10 minutes, then died like I turned the key off? This was my original issue as to why I decided to get a different pcm. It will not crank back up until the next day even after removing the battery for 3-4 hours to charge it. I am not getting fire to my plugs. Did the opti test for the 100th time, same issue, no signal on white wire from pcm;doing the led test and the ac voltage test ( 1-4 v AC). I have ran through every test possible that I can. I have replaced the coil, wires and plugs twice, egr valve, fuel pump and filter, and opti. Yes I got and opti from Vatozone, a Cardone reman, but they are tested before you purchase them. I know new parts can be bad, but I have a hard time believing that unless I actually have proof, but I cannot afford a scope to see the actual signal coming from the opti. Don't know what else to do at this point, at a loss of time, money and patience.

Have you tested the ICM? That is exactly what happens when they get hot... do not buy anything but AC/Delco ICM...

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Originally Posted by EagleMark

Have you tested the ICM? That is exactly what happens when they get hot...

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I have run all the tests for the opti which doesn't really test the direct opti., only tests the signal from the opti. through the pcm., how is this actually testing the opti.? It doesn't really test the ICM either. Either way I'm not getting the 1-4 volts AC from the white wire going to the ICM. Which is the signal coming from the opti. through the pcm, correct? I also did the LED light test that I found on here to test the same wire on the ICM plug with it actually plugged in. Light was supposed to flash the whole time during cranking, it didn't.