TBI 5.7 swap in my YJ

Open loop, O2 very little variance from 450mv stoich and 2 minutes into log 20* w 4* knock retard bouncing things around. Volts seem a little low...code 43 knock sensor circuit failure.

Went back and read last 2 pages...is O2 sensor installed? How much initial timing you got at the crank? Is this engine purdy much stock meaning suppose to run on stock tune or did a lumpity lump cam get installed?

Don't know much if absence of an 'E trans causes issues, helping a buddy of mine 4.3L BJYL 700r4, found a trans error fuel cut-off parameter...so wondering myself??? Turned off a lot of trans related stuff trying to dial in tune.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stew86MCSS396

Open loop, O2 very little variance from 450mv stoich and 2 minutes into log 20* w 4* knock retard bouncing things around. Volts seem a little low...code 43 knock sensor circuit failure.

Went back and read last 2 pages...is O2 sensor installed? How much initial timing you got at the crank? Is this engine purdy much stock meaning suppose to run on stock tune or did a lumpity lump cam get installed?

Don't know much if absence of an 'E trans causes issues, helping a buddy of mine 4.3L BJYL 700r4, found a trans error fuel cut-off parameter...so wondering myself??? Turned off a lot of trans related stuff trying to dial in tune.

---

Thanks for the reply Stew, You lost me a bit in the first sentence. Volts low... I replaced the alternator last night because it was not charging well. Code 43.... Wiring issue?

Single wire O2 is in place at the manifold. 3 wire O2 is on the work bench still. My timing light no longer works so it is timed to where it runs good. Bone stock 150K mile engine. I am running a Turbo350 transmission so once I can tune I will be removing all the trans stuff.

Initial spark advance in the bin calls for 0 degrees. At idle your bin is calling for 20* + whatever your seat of the pants/ear timing you set it too. Idk if that's setting off the knock retard but read on...

Imma thinkin fix the code 43 knock sensor open or grounded then clear PCM codes by disconnecting battery. From there it should switch from open loop to close loop. When in close loop that's when you'll see things like active swinging O2 mvolts, BLMs, INT, etc. as it should be. https://www.freeautomechanic.com/gm-...k-control.html

Electronic Spark Control Module is in your memcal (nomenclature?) inside the PCM. Check knock sensor wiring for open or short to ground.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=1921&d=1331491851

Well Stew, I have done nothing that you suggested... yet, but I did spend some time driving the Jeep this weekend. The more I drove it the better it ran. The computer must have been associating itself with all of the different components and made itself much happier. I tell you what, that 5.7 in a Jeep is pretty nutty. :)

HTML Code:

---

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=10Vfenn_c3_nME1eWUWQuJwBCU0oOjxC2

---