If I can figure this out without blowing something up I'll try to implement this weekend and see how it goes.
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If I can figure this out without blowing something up I'll try to implement this weekend and see how it goes.
Ok working on getting this setup in my bin and I have a few questions.
I have a dual speed fan
1. if fan A is active will fan B be set to inactive or do I have to wire the relays so both the high and low relay's won't be energized at the same time?
2. tps for fan on. is this the tps % if I want the fan to come on reguardless how fast I am going? will this override MPH for fan off?
3. if I don't want to use MPH for fan off will leaving it at 0 disable it or do I need to set it at some really high number same with TPS?
As a source for solid state, dual fan relays of automotive grade may I suggest 2003-ish and up Dodge Caravans? In the stock application one relay is used to control two fans independently. There are a couple of versions but both are fairly small and would easily mount in a 3" by 5" space. They are usually found on the LF frame rail, LH inner fender, LH side of bumper, or under the LH headlight. Be sure to mount them to a nice solid heat sink as they will get hot and will die if not cooled. Dorman 902310 (pictured with the connector) is typical of the version mounted on the bumper while Standard DR1088 is physically smaller and can be found on frame rail, inner fender, or under headlight. The 902310 is slightly more reliable but will require plenty of airflow for cooling. DR1088 should be mounted to a good, solid metal base which won't get too hot.
Nice call 1project2many. I found this while looking up info on the caravan relay. "1996 to 2000 is on the frame rail under the air filter box.2001 to 2007 is in the front bumper on the passenger side.". $60 for the 902310 and $58 for the other I'll be looking in a JY for these.
I only see 4 wires, on that plug there are two big and two small. How does that controll two fans? I would think the two small ones turn it on, and the two bing ones for the power (just like a normal relay)
Or is there a seperate one for each fan?
I apologize. We have 25-30 Chrysler vans in our fleet. I just checked wiring diagrams and these modules are wired to two fans in parallel so one relay controls both fans together. The reason it seemed like they control fans independently is because some vans have an additional control circuit for one fan based on A/C input.Quote:
I only see 4 wires, on that plug there are two big and two small. How does that controll two fans? I would think the two small ones turn it on, and the two bing ones for the power (just like a normal relay)
Or is there a seperate one for each fan?
The pictures I posted are from a site that had prices ranging from $30 to $50. Name starts with rockaut.
That's a good point that I didn't think about while putting this together. Both Fan A and Fan B will be on separate relays and both can operate at the same time. So will this hurt a two speed fan? I don't think it will, but at the moment I'm not sure. (EDIT: Looking at this further, looks like for a two speed fan you will need wiring that prevents both speeds from operating at once. I'll try to come up with a schematic.)
Yes, this will override everything else except "Overheat Temperature for Fan On".
If you don't need the MPH for fan off then set it to the maximum. The "TPS for Fan On" can not be disabled, but if you set it to 100% it will operate the least.
1project2many:
I don't know about the first relay (902310.jpg), but I have tried the second one (dr1088.jpg) and it will not work with this code. I don't remember off hand exactly why, but had to do something with a timed circuit, which may be for the A/C.
I guess it depends on the vehicle but I can't see a reason for needing fan on at say 50 MPH? Unless the other fan is for a tranny cooler not mounted in front of radiator?
Some Dodge diesel trucks had a trans cooler under bed of truck with fan, cool find in JY. I can't see keeping and auto tranny to cool? Charts all seem to indacate cooler eqauls longer life, what would be a minimum for tranny temps in like alaska temps? There must be a point where warming would be advantage but it's usually heat that kills them...
I can't find a schmatic that will work with the soft start, so I'll have to make one.
when I race at the local mud bogs its not uncommon for me to see wheel speed of 70+ mph with a ground speed of 1 mph. tps % on will really come in handy for this though. I have a schematic for regular relays to power a two speed fan so both don't get power the same time. just have to find it.
here is a link to the schematic i am going to modify to work with my setup. Let me know if this looks good. I'll post up a schematic of the finished wiring.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/ta...4/#post5244385
Are you going to be using soft start?
If your not using soft start then that will work if you connect pin 86 of relay 1 to pin E3(Fan A) and pin 86 of relay 2 to pin E7(Fan B). Then connect pin 85 (both relays) to switched +. If you want override switches connect one side of the switch to pin 86 and the other to ground.
If your using soft start then it won't work because the Hella relays don't have pin 87A. You can try wiring it like the attachment below.
This isn't a perfect solution, the switching relay should be solid state, but may be OK since it's very low amperage.
For those wanting to use duel fans with one fan on, for low and both fans on, for high. Then try the schematic in Post # 30. Thanks one92rs!
Use the right cooling fan as the low speed, controlled with Fan B.
Use the left cooling fan as the high speed, controlled with Fan A.
If using the soft start option with high speed then you will need a solid state relay for the Cool Fan 1 Relay position.
I have been meaning to ask this for a while, I have an electric water pump on my Camaro, and due to the routing of the cooling system it takes forever to heat up because the water pump's flowrate. I would like to get the pump to run at say 25% at start up and stay at that speed, then from 150* to 190* ramp up to 100% as the temp rises.
I had previously thought about using a brushed motor speed control (ESC) like those used in RC cars, to handle the load side of the equation, and using a simple circuit to change the temp sensor output to a compatible PWM signal to control the ESC. But if this PWM control is cabable of controlling the pump through a solid state relay, that would be great. I was thinking of making a table of temp values and the associated PW or duty cycle that the ECM would command.
How hard would this be implement? I have been looking over your code, and parts are starting to make sense, but I still don't think I could handle it myself.
That could be done, but not with this code, it only operates in PWM for a second or so. I'm not sure how hard it would be, but I don't think it would be real bad. The soft start section of this code is the first code that I've written from scratch, before that all I had done was minor tweaks. Its hard to say how long it took me to get a handle on the basics of doing coding, but I would guess at about 6 mounts of spare time, just reading and trying different things. How quick for you would depend upon your available time.
ok got wires added to the ecu loaded the code for fan A and B. did not do the soft start. Using a volt meter I am monitoring for ground on E3 and e7. I am showing a ground for fan A. no ground on fan b. engine is not up to temp and no thresholds have been reached that should have activated fan A. this is what I have set
Fan A calibration
Overheat temp for fan on 209.8
Temp for fan on 194.9
Temp for fan off 185.5
MPH for fan off 60
TPS for fan on 14.8
minium fan run time 30 sec
use fan a with a/c set
fan b calibration
Overheat temp for fan on 215
Temp for fan on 185.5
Temp for fan off 177.4
MPH for fan off 55
TPS for fan on 99
minium fan run time 20 sec
use fan a with a/c not set
If i leave Overheat temp for fan on for fan B at -40 it will show ground on that pin. I'm going to keep messing with the settings to see if I can get fan A to work.
A easy way to see whats going on, is to wire up a small light to each pin.
Be sure to look over all of the set-up stuff too, may be a mistake there.
Are you using $0D or $E6?
Im running 0d. to test I have my volt meter connected to b+ and the ground connected to the ecu output. it appears that fan be is working properly. I double checked the install tables and the enable fields. no matter what I do I keep getting ground for fan A. attached is my bin i'm working from.
Because the coolant flows through engine, out the back of the manifold, through the heater core, through the radiator, and finally back to pump, until the thermostat opens. <50* outside and it takes forever to warm up while driving, due to the airflow through radiator, even without the fan on. I have contemplated moving the return from the heater core to the bottom of the radiator so the water returning spends less time in there but that requires rewelding fittings and making a new heater hose.:mad1:
Everything looks to be in order with the bin. I'll try and test it tomorrow.
What about using a "T" in the lower radiator hose? Thats how my S10 is.
HAHAHA. yup it runs better already.:thumbsup:
i cant wait till this is completed and working.
So that the HOT coolant gets cooled off before returning to engine? Important during summer, but something to overcome in spring and fall. I have seen GM OEM setups that are the same way, but I think some have a bypass valve in there somewhere.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...cL._SL250_.jpg
http://shopacdelco.amazonwebstore.co...B0016I4ESE.htm
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...d/getimage.jpg
this is the one that is on my 92 camaro. same but without the electronics. on mine the top two fittings flow when vacuum is applied bypassing the heater core.goes from the rear engine port to 5/8 top port. then from 3/4 top port to the tube leading to the radiator and ties in with the 3/4 fitting on the heater core. and the 5/8 heater core fitting to the bottom. when the engine is running no heater there is vacuum letting the top two run. turn on heater and vacuum goes allowing the 2 5/8 move thru allowing heater core movement.
That may do the trick, but the way it is now... no wonder it takes so long to warm up... probably takes forever to get good heat too? I'll look at my Suburban tomorrow and see how it's plumbed. I don't remember a heater line going to radiator but been a long time since I did any cooling system work on it. Big four core radiator, oil cooler, trans cooler from factory. Will idle with AC on in parking lot at 90f and never hit 200 before clutch fan kicks in...
Well, I was looking at this code and wondering about something. Since I don't need a fan for a transmission cooler fan, I could use that output for my fuel pump project. What I a curious about is using the Soft Start Idea to use a single speed fan and control it at different speeds.
One thing to keep in mind is that the bypass valves were used to improve A/C function by stopping flow to the heater core when the A/C is set to max and had nothing to do with warming-up. You could use one in your situation to stop the flow through the radiator while cold. You would have to rig something up to control the vacuum.
That could be done, would need to write some code that uses a look-up table (temp vs DC) instead of a timer. Also, could use some status bits (A/C, etc.) to select different DC's for different conditions.
what thermostat are you running. my bypass valve is always activated unless you tun on the heater. your suburban may not have this hose going to the radiator. it was more likely a room issue in my gracious engine compartment,lol.
PJG1173,
I got my truck to run on your bin, and I couln't find anything wrong with Fan A. Try hooking a light or something else up to pin E3.
I'll try again this afternoon. I'm connecting the positive lead from my volt meter to the cigarete outlet is there somewhere else I should be connecting?
If you have the relays wired-up then just connect them. Double check to see if your on the correct pin.
would it matter that i am running a 16168625 that was previously running $e6?
Not that I know of, but if need be, I can swap mine out for a 8625 and load your bin. Not gonna happen today though, it would be several days before I had time.