That is how I bought my 500. The guy cut the frame just behind the transmission and welded on a
pipe with a hitch to move it around the yard. I still have the frame, transmission and axels.Attachment 1555Attachment 1556Attachment 1557
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That is how I bought my 500. The guy cut the frame just behind the transmission and welded on a
pipe with a hitch to move it around the yard. I still have the frame, transmission and axels.Attachment 1555Attachment 1556Attachment 1557
wow, frame, trans and axles is exactly what we need, we already have a 472 to fit it.
Found the mag. Its the april 2008 issue of hot rod.
They did a few tricks like offset grinding the crank to the BBC size, 7 inch rods, .075 overbore, for 541 CID.
They added some custom aluminum heads, cam, rockers, etc...
649 ft/lbs or torque at 3400rpm and 526 hp at 5000rpm.
:rockon:
:rockon:Quote:
649 ft/lbs or torque at 3400rpm
What does a Cummins diesel do? Stock...
Going to the first site I found on google, it has a very wide rating over the years. Based on if its a 12 valve, or 24 valve, crd, etc..
But according to the site I found,
A 2000 model manual trans listed 235hp at 2700rpm, and 460ft/lbs at 1600rpm.
A 2001 high output model lists 245hp, and 505ft/lbs at the same rpm's.
02 and 03 high output models showed 305hp at 2900rpm, and 555ft/lbs at 1400rpm.
:happy:
Built Caddy motor beats a cummins diesel.... :thumbsup:
HAHA stock '70 caddy motor beats '00 Cummins.
But not a built cummins....lol
I wonder what kind of numbers a caddy 500 would put out without the mods done in the hot rod build.
Say stock crank, rods, and stock type pistons, mabey a .030 overbore (typical rebuild) mabey do a light port/polish to the heads and 3 angle valve job, mabey a mild or rv style cam, aftermarket 4V intake, headers, etc...
Is there anyone on this site that could modify a wiring harness? I have a brand new harness from a 1994 C/K chevy truck.
I'm sure it has way more connections than I need.
It's a time consuming task but not hard. We have wiring diagrams and have just been offered a way to update what we have to newer and better. You sure you don't want to do it yourself?
I just re read this thread and informed you that your truck should have a VSS in speedo. It is 2 PPM and in another thread been told that will work with the TBI but for the 4l80E you need 40PPM and it should already be in the trans.
Does your harness have the 4l80E wiring?
I may do the wiring myself. Do you just cut off the ends you don't use or do they have to be removed from
the harness? It has wiring for the 4L80E transmission and I'm going to be using that trans. What way have you been offered to update what you have to newer and better? The truck is all apart in storage and under cover outside under 12" of
snow we got last week here in northern WI. or I would post photos. I'm just getting things together for when the weather gets better. I will post some photos of my wiring harness latter today. Thanks
Just better pictures of what we have for that PCM and other pictures for ECM/PCM we don't have.
I take off all convoluted covering and remove what is not used all the way back to PCM and pull pin or if EGR leave wire as it can be used for wideband on your PCM. There are also going to be a huge harness over to driver side bulk head plug that most is not used but does get power from there. Lots of extras like air diverter, altenator, etc... lots of factory splices for power and grounds, leave them and just cut wire inside where they are taped.
Basically lay the harness out so all connections on motor are where they are supposed to be. Your's has rear distributor like chevy so it should be pretty easy, wires going to PCM, then in middle is all the work where relays are needed, power from fuse block on driver side being removed and things like trans harness and fuel pump wire comes out to go down away from engine harness.
Couple things stay inside cab from PCM connecter like ALDL port and Check Engine Light.
One wire at a time! Just take your time!
When done just use a few cable ties and install harness in truck so things can be adjusted, then tie, tape and run engine, then when your sure it's done put the convoluted tubing back on and you can incorerate your existing harness into it for a clean look.
If you have all the sensors and TBI you can hook up to power and turn distributor with drill and run it on the bench. In the end you should have all plugs and a 12 volt power wire, your wire to you points with resister removed will go to pink wire to power relays and turn on system, 2 grounds and fuel pump wire to hook up.
Here's some ideas:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...Engine!-HOW-TO!
Here are some photos of the wiring harness I have. I'm sure I won't be using all the ends.Attachment 1826Attachment 1827Attachment 1828Attachment 1829Attachment 1830Attachment 1831Attachment 1832Attachment 1833Attachment 1834