If found a parameter called "Idle RPM For C/L ALDL" and it is set to 1000. I don't recall seeing a resister installed between the pins. Now you have me worried....
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If found a parameter called "Idle RPM For C/L ALDL" and it is set to 1000. I don't recall seeing a resister installed between the pins. Now you have me worried....
some of the calibrations also added ~8-10* of advance whenever in 10K mode as well... might explain a few things.
i'll wait for someone more familiar with $42 to chime in, but i believe so.
well im using moates extreme aldl and when its set on 10K it stays in aldl mode, when open it idles normally. try lowering the aldl idle and see if it works, ifso, theres a 10K resistor
Hmmm.... If you've accidentally moved the inside slider switch on the AutoProm, you will be in ALDL "10K" mode. I thought I had it in the correct position. Check Moate's website and verify.
How did I know he was at 5,000 feet? I've been secretly stalking some members of this board. ;-)
(Seriously, we're in the same FSJ club in CO and have been friends for a long time! LOL!)
There should be no 10K resister in the system, the 10K resister is in the ALDL cable to your computer or Scan tool and you do not need it at all for 1227747. If you do turn it on you go into ALDL mode and Idle will be 1000 and it does add spark. It is a test mode. You can see if it is on in $42 adx in Item list, Error Codes or All switches. It should say disabled, flip 10K switch and it will say Enabled.
The table your looking for to set idle and to know what RPM to set min air to is in tables near bottom "IAC - Desired C/L Idle Speed" Set idle 100 RPM below this with IAC closed and then unplugged.
There's a couple other things that could be happening, if you did min air setting to bin as discribed.
Since this is a conversion!
1. Did the harness come off a big block chevy? It has 2 wires crossed to IAC.
2. Where is your CTS sensor and what is it reading in TunerPro warmed up idle? This has been an issue on many a conversion.
3. You can change to many things and end up with a glitch! If you have your VE and or spark tables done copy them into new stock bin.
4. Was the chip you started with basic match to conversion? Auto to Auto? Manual to Manual? Size to Size? Fuel pressure stock?
I didn't know I could use the AutoProm to put the system in ALDL mode, thats good to know. The paper clip is kinda cheesy :)
I am pretty sure I have the switch set to open but I could be wrong. I like seeing the system working so I am usually logging when I drive. I will do a test run in the morning without the autoprom plugged in and see if that makes a difference.
@EagleMark, I do have the ALDL Mode in my dash but i never really noticed it. Now I know, thanks! The C/L idle speed table is one of the first things I set up, but I thought that was only in drive. Does that govern PK/N too?
FSJ Guy and I go back a few years, he was part of my inspiration to go TBI and has been a big help. I think he is due to come down for a tuning session. :)
1. Did the harness come off a big block chevy? It has 2 wires crossed to IAC.
I am pretty sure it did not come off a big block as the TB had 5.0L injectors that I swapped to 5.7L. BUT I bought it from someone on a jeep forum and he didn't remember what it came off of.
2. Where is your CTS sensor and what is it reading in TunerPro warmed up idle? This has been an issue on many a conversion.
The CTS is locate on the intake manifold in place of a CTO switch that was used to bump up idle when the temp got high.
3. You can change to many things and end up with a glitch! If you have your VE and or spark tables done copy them into new stock bin.
Yes, I agree, I have not changed much from the stock bin except for the basics. Initial SA, MSA table, spark bias - warm, VE, EGR, Min temp for diverter and C/L idle speed. Thats about it I think.
4. Was the chip you started with basic match to conversion? Auto to Auto? Manual to Manual? Size to Size? Fuel pressure stock?
I started with a known good bin from FSJ Guy that was geared towards an AMC engine but I have also played with stock GM bins similar to my setup (Auto, 5.7L with emissions).
Look at engine temp in TunerPro when warmed up? Want to make sure ECM is seeing engine warmed up.
Initail Spark Advance is set to whatever your distributor is set to with timing wire disconnected.
MSA Table? You mean Maximum Spark Advance? What is it now?
Spark Bias Warm, why change that? What is it?
What are you running for distributor to EST module? You said your idle was good with timing wire disconnected right? If you set timing with wire disconnected, then check timing wire connected is it going the right way? Advancing to about 15 to 20 degrees at idle? Rev engine and watch timing marks, should drop timing then advance again.
10k and jumping A and B are differant things...Quote:
I didn't know I could use the AutoProm to put the system in ALDL mode, thats good to know. The paper clip is kinda cheesy :)
From what I can gather these AMC engines need it a bit more advance than a stock 350. Base timing is 10 to 16 deg depending on altitude. So at idle I should be at about 20 to 24 deg advanced.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...4/IMG_0056.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...2/IMG_0057.JPG
Can you post a log and copy of your .BIN, ADX, XDF?
The ECM knows what the temp is.Quote:
Spark Bias Warm, why change that? What is it? It was recommended to me by FSJ Guy to zero this. There is a spark bias warm and cold in the xdf I am using. Looks like it retards the timing based on what temp the engine is. This one has confused me from day one since it is only a scalar type parameter I am not sure how it knows what "warm" or "cold" is.
Not saying what FSJ is wrong as there are more then one way to skin a cat. But I never mess with these because to many other paremeters involved. You zero'd warm spark bias which makes your Main Spark table actual spark advance when warm but there's so many other things involved we don't know what it really is at all RPM. You left cold spark bias alone at 20 so when cold Main spark advance table is minus 20. Disconnecting timing wire and setting timing removes all these factors. But when plugged back in?
Put the Warm Spark Bias back to stock 9.84 and try it?
If you want to know actual spark advance then use the XDF in $42 info thread and it has a "*Spark Advance Read Me Hack*" and if you use the ADX with it you can see actual spark advance in your data log.
Next issue is Spark Latency times. First the small cap EFI distributor is close but not accurate and it is very differant then a large cap HEI so your timing can be as much as 11 degrees off at higher RPM. Easy way to get close is find a V8 large cap bin like early MAF cars, I think $6E or someone please give us an example of large cap distributor EFI bin please.
Hard way to be totally accurate invlves math. For more on how to set spark latency value correct:
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/di...ncy-table.html
Looks like you guys spent a lot of time putting together a correct spark table for the Jeep engine. If it is supposed to be actual timing I would put the warm spark bias back to stock which is usually 9.84 or just 10 and it will save as 9.84. Then add 10 degrees to Main spark Advance. Now all other factors/paremeters considered are correct. Then look into correct large cap spark latency values and you will find the few degrees your off here and there.
In the end you will need to check spark advance at differant RPM with dial back timing light and compare with your Main Spark Advance table or use the Spark Advance Hack to see actual spark advance in ECM compared to timing marks on balencer.
Don't know if this is your idle issue but it is an issue. It is strange how you have good idle with timing wire disconnected but connected you have an issue? This could point to a malfunctioning EST/7pin module... but even when malfunctioning it can be seen jumping around when watching timing with timing light.