New to LS's from TX

First of all, thanks to the admins for letting a MoPar guy into the forum. lol.

I myself am as indicated a dyed in the mold MoPar fan, but my oldest sons, 18 and 23, are both interested in LS swaps etc. I'm not one to disown my boys for something like this so I figured I'd learn as much as I can before things get out of hand and I get lost in the weeds.

Seriously though, engines are engines and wrenches are wrenches, so I'm really looking forward to this. So much so that we are going to pull one, maybe two engines this morning that showed up in local yard a few days ago. They appear to be in good shape but we'll give them a decent once over.

Anyway, glad to be here and i'm sure we'll have questions.

-=C

Hello,

Ask any question you want, somebody here will know. I think you need to acquire a small OBD2 bench harness, small 12 volt power supply and start learning "Tuner Pro RT", "PCM Hammer" and "LS Droid" to program your new motors - You Tube is your friend here. Buy a spare junk yard PCM for your engines for $35 to lab rat experiment with.

As you say, "Engines are engines" but you need a different set of wrenches to adapt your motors enough to get them started and running well - the three programs above will assist you. That, or you can pay somebody to do the work for you with a program called "HP Tuners" or "EFI Live". I started with LS Droid and Tuner Pro a little less than a year ago and now have four PCM's around here in various conditions of tune and I have yet to turn one into a brick or wheel chock. Nor have I melted a hole in the top of a piston running my engine too lean and hot.

So ask anything you want, there are no dumb questions because I have already asked them for you, hopefully. We are here to help you and your sons learn.

Rick

Thanks Rick, yes, different set of tools to be sure. I'm an IT guy, been running very large, distributed systems for a couple of decades so tech is no stranger. I'm looking forward to the nerd aspect of all of this.

When we pick up the motor(s) this morning, I'll get a couple of extra future "bricks" to play with as well as odb2 ports etc.

Other than the motor, computer and harness, I plan on pulling..

odb2 ports
finding some 862 heads (maybe)
Finding Flex Fuel injectors
Extra relays

Anything else I should look for?

Hello,

Depends on what motor you pick. You might need the electronic throttle pedal and the TAC module that goes with it if the engine you choose is sufficiently modern. I picked an external transmission cooler for my 4L60E trans and then pressure cleaned its internal plumbing in both directions. The coolers are inexpensive to purchase new but I'm a cheapskate.

Pick up a good radiator plus the old hoses with one or two electric fans for shop use with your motor. It likely won't fit your future vehicle but will be handy for running your engine.

Take the engine exhaust manifolds with you and try to grab both oxygen sensors. These O2 sensors might or might not work but you only have a few bucks here to lose if they don't.

The basic health of my 150,000 mile 1999 GMC Sierra engine was good when I got it. Good compression in all cylinders at 170 PSI and about 38 PSI for an oil pressure vigorously cranking on a good battery. However, what I have had a little trouble with is engine and transmission sensors:

Failed trans Vehicle Speed Sensor, inaccurate Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, eventual bad Camshaft Position Sensor and two bad fuel injectors for high impedance causing cylinder misfires. Soon after I got the motor but well before installation, I replaced both knock sensors and their wiring harness (crumbly connector plastic) because of how difficult it would be later to replace these under the intake manifold. I should have done the Crankshaft Position Sensor because of how difficult it is to reach but I didn't do it - no trouble out of it so far.

Rick

Thanks Rick.

Ended up going to get them but only had time for one. $280 out the door with complete engine (TBC), harness and computer. That included a $70 core so I'm happy with it. TBC was gone by the time I got there, as well as the others we say the day before but I was able to find a couple for myself. Left the 4l60, radiator, fans etc but I figure with a son that works at a parts store the small items will be replaced anyway. it's a 5.3, 862 heads, TBC and very clean inside. I sort of regret not taking the transmission but the kid was talking about manuals so no big loss. The donor was in good condition other then the large tree shaped ding in the bumper. Motor turns over without any fuss. This is a birthday present so I'm reluctant to crack it open cuz that's part of the fun, but I'm not sure I can wait until August, lol....

Anyway, looking forward to learning some new tricks.

One thing us Mopar guys do is flip the pistons/rods across the left/right bank to alter the pin offset which frees up some power due to less bore side pressure. You get some piston slap but there are measurable gains. Is that a chevy thing too or are the chevy pins absolutely centered? Only works with flat tops obviously or seriously custom pistons.

-=C

Hello,

I can't answer your piston question other than to say I have not heard of that. I would suggest removing the fuel rail and emptying all of that ethanol fuel out. Otherwise, your fuel injectors might be stuck by the time you will be ready to run the engine.

Rick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by B52Bombardier1

Hello,

I can't answer your piston question other than to say I have not heard of that. I would suggest removing the fuel rail and emptying all of that ethanol fuel out. Otherwise, your fuel injectors might be stuck by the time you will be ready to run the engine.

Rick

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That's a good call. I'll take care of it. Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cuda416

One thing us Mopar guys do is flip the pistons/rods across the left/right bank to alter the pin offset which frees up some power due to less bore side pressure. You get some piston slap but there are measurable gains. Is that a chevy thing too or are the chevy pins absolutely centered? Only works with flat tops obviously or seriously custom pistons.

-=C

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The pistons are offset in the chevs too. Yepper, offset to keep them quiet and flipping them does change the thrust characteristics, however, if you check the degree on the cam(+/- .050" piston tdc and +/- .005" cam lobe tdc) you will find you have effectively retarded the cam to piston before and after tdc relationship. That's mainly where the power gain comes from. :innocent2:

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