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Newbie questions
Hey guys, I am new to the site...not only new to the site, but pretty much a newb on EFI systems in general. I own a 1984 Chevy S10 that was orignally equipped with a 2.8 carbureted engine. It now has a 3.4 crate engine in it and I just completed my first EFI TBI swap ever on it by installing a modified factory harness from a 1987 S10 and an 8062 ECM from a 1991 2.8 S10 with the ASSB chip. I know this is far from optimum since the 3.4 was never installed in the S10 and the only thing ever sitting on a 3.4 similar to this wasn't a TBI but and SFI intake on a Camaro (but it runs really damn good!). Not only that, the crate engine does not use the Camaro camshaft and there are a couple of other minor differences. The intake on this truck is also bored to match a 4.3 TBI unit from an Astro van along with 4.3 injectors in the housing. She is a real Frankenstein! Wanna go ahead and make a shoutout to my buddies from the S10 forum that helped me out and to damanx for phone support when I couldn't get that bastard to start initially.
Okay....let's remember that JK is a total newb. What is the simplest program to try when tuning? Let's dumb it on down too. Tell me the basic process of getting started. Connections, setting up the software etc....making my first changes.
Can someone explain code masks to me?
Thanks guys for your help.
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the 8062 uses $4E mask
go to tunerpro.net and download the latest version of RT(realtime), donate if you want, otherwise you will see a 10 second nag box when TP is started.
go to the GM ECM info sub forum at the top of this forum(GM EFI), find the associated link for your 8062 and grab the latest XDF/ADX and a bin that matches your drivetrain. i.e. 3.42 gears, auto or manual trans, etc.
if you want to burn chips, someone else here who burns them will be able to get you all the details of whats needed.
if you want to use an emulator,
go to moates.net and look at the ostrich 2.0, to use that you will need...
a socket booster, also found on his site....http://www.moates.net/socket-booster....html?cPath=26
a G2 adapter....http://support.moates.net/g2-adapter-installation/
some soldering skills, if not, send the ECM to moates to install everthing
you can buy his extreme ALDL kit too if you dont want to build your own ALDL cable. http://www.moates.net/aldu1-xtremeal...rter-p-49.html
thats all I can think of for now
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Thanks dude. You are always a big help by putting it into ways I can understand. That makes a little more sense to me.
Oh yeah....truck quit on me on the way to work today. Showing code 42 fault for the distributor. Figures. Used the old worn out unit against my better judgement. When I swapped in the old unit the other day I didn't put any dielectric grease on the module so I probably cooked it. Didn't even think about it really because I never intended to keep it in there but for testing. Gonna try the other module to see if I can get it back home.
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If you want to go the emulation route, adding a programmer and extra channels to log into the ALDL stream (Such as WBO2), go for the Auto Prom. It may sound expensive, but one you add the Ostrich, the Extreme ALDL, and BURN2 together it comes out to be cheaper than buying all seperate. The Auto Prom has the advantage of 3 extra channels that can be logged with the ALDL data, and a Tuner Pro RT licence.
I have a few Ostriches, an ALDL cable an Auto Prom and other tuning equipment. I use an Ostrich in my Datsun as an EEPROM replacement, so that when I do want to change something, I just plug it into my laptop and tune. However when I tune other people's vehicles, I often use the Auto Prom, since it's a single connection to the laptop and less messy than using multiple items.