1996 LT1 to 12200411 PCM conversion help

[Snipescastle2]

Hello everyone!
as the thread states, I am in the middle of a 12200411 PCM conversion on my '96 Trans Am WS6 LT1, I have got the car to run, albeit very roughly, but running none the less. I used the 2001 Chevy express Tune for the L31 engine, deleted the cam position sensor and the emissions stuff, Vats, etc.... I have installed Ford Blue Top 24lb fuel injectors, and I changed the flow rate in the bin file, the correct fuel rate in grams per second? and the car is smoking white smoke (raw fuel) I know very little about tuning from everything I have been reading, but not enough to get this car to run well enough to get it to a tuner to straighten it out. Can anyone help me "Iron this Out" at least enough to get the car to a tuner without grenading it, or burning it to the ground? I am using tunerpro RT to edit my bins, and using "LS Droid" to flash the files to my PCM.
I have attached my Bin file, if anyone would care to look it over, I'm stuck and could really use the help!
Thanks!
Ben Smith
Benjamin.L.Smith@hotmail.com
(816)956-1202

[In-Tech]

Hello,
I took a quick glance, there are major problems with that bin file. I don't have much time to help today but let's start with your base file. Post that and let's go from there, plenty of other guys here to help too.


altexpress 1.bin (p01-p59.xml (v 1))

Segments:
OS PN: 10 , Ver: AB, Nr: 1 [0000 - 04FF, 0500 - 3FFF, 20000 - 7FFFD], Size: 63FFE
EngineCal PN: 10 , Ver: AE, Nr: 2 [8000 - 13FFF], Size: C000
EngineDiag PN: 9359000 , Ver: AB, Nr: 3 [14000 - 16DFF], Size: 2E00
TransCal PN: 12582160 , Ver: AB, Nr: 4 [16E00 - 1BDFF], Size: 5000
TransDiag PN: 16264444 , Ver: AB, Nr: 5 [1BE00 - 1C7FF], Size: A00
Fuel PN: 16264662 , Ver: AB, Nr: 6 [1C800 - 1E51F], Size: 1D20
System PN: 9373415 , Ver: BK, Nr: 7 [1E520 - 1EE9F], Size: 980
Speedometer PN: 10 , Ver: AU, Nr: 8 [1EEA0 - 1EF9F], Size: 100
Eeprom_data PN: 9386530 , Ver: DLAC[4000-7FFF], Size: 4000
Hardware 9386530
Serial 1EB1P6BK1172
Id 3154131286
Id2 12208511
Broadcast DLAC
VIN 1GBFG15M121247083

Checksums:
OS Checksum 1: 4838 [OK] Checksum2: ECD7 [n/a]
EngineCal Checksum 1: 4F6F [OK] Checksum2: 768A [n/a]
EngineDiag Checksum 1: E0F2 [OK] Checksum2: 0CF6 [modded]
TransCal Checksum 1: E4F0 [OK] Checksum2: 42FC [stock]
TransDiag Checksum 1: B45D [OK] Checksum2: 5294 [stock]
Fuel Checksum 1: CFA8 [OK] Checksum2: 6129 [modded]
System Checksum 1: 2418 [OK] Checksum2: 4AE4 [modded]
Speedometer Checksum 1: 9033 [OK] Checksum2: 6C89 [n/a]
Eeprom_data

[dave w]

The attached .bin files are modified. All three files have the same VIN, which IS NOT an Express Van VIN!

The files are most likely from an EFI Live website that has disappeared from the internet and converted to .bin

I used these files for the dual trigger distributor project, see pics below. The Express Van crank sensor has been relocated to the L31 distributor. (1x crank rotation = 2x cam rotation)

dave w

16061

16062

[In-Tech]

I've never done a Lt1 to 0411 conversion so this could be quite enlightening :)

[Snipescastle2]

Thank you all for checking into this for me! I am at work today, but once I get home, I’ll post what I have. No wonder this thing runs like crap.
Thank You!
Ben Smith

[Snipescastle2]

Carl,
I’m new to this tuning thing (isn’t it obvious?��) sorry couldn't help myself! What exactly are you wanting me to post? Base file? What is that other than the .bin? Operating system?
12212156 or I have 12202088. Please let me know what I am looking for, and I’ll post it up.
Basically, I have eliminated the Optispark distributer on my LT1 engine, I deleted the cam position sensor, the car already
Has the crank position sensor and reluctor wheel were already in place.
I followed another guy’s build, and used his engine Harness re-pin instructions for using the
0411 PCM.
His youtube channel is “Horsepower Tube” his name is “Kyle” He sent me his “ HPTuners tune file” that he used, but I cant do anything with it.I’ll send it to you if that will help? Just P/M your email address and consider it done!
Thanks again!
Ben Smith

[Snipescastle2]

Dave,
Do I have to change the file .ext in order to use these .bin files you posted?
They download as .php files.....
Thanks!
Ben Smith

[dave w]

Dave,
Do I have to change the file .ext in order to use these .bin files you posted?
They download as .php files.....
Thanks!
Ben Smith

Might be a browser setting that's downloading the files as .php? I use Google Chrome, to upload and download gearhead-efi files.

dave w

[In-Tech]

Snipescastle2, pm sent.

[Snipescastle2]

Okay,Just wanted to bring everyone up to speed on what I have been doing to my ‘96 Trans Am LT1 0411 PCM conversion I’ve been Collaborating with Carl (“Intech”) to get my project working. Just so everyone knows, I have “TunerPro RT” For tuning, and I have my bench tuning harness/LSDroid and the OBDLink MX+ that I have been using thus far.
I am using an “OTC Genesis” Scan tool to read whats going on with my car(I don't have an ALDL cable for my laptop, so I’m using what I have.

I’m attaching my Bin file for everyone to review, and suggest any changes that you feel will help me get this beast dialed in. The engine is stock (for right now) I am getting ready to drop a 383 LT1 Stroker in it. The new engine has right at 11.5 to 1 compression, the LT4 “Hot Cam” and ported stock heads with1.6 Ratio rockers. Comp valve-springs/retainers/push rods.Scat cast steel crank, Scat pro comp rods and all ARP
hardware. I have deleted all the emissions, rear O2’s, evap etc.....I have updated the MAF to the newer “Truck Maf” and conversion table. I will post my last set of readings taken ( before I found an injector stuck open) that has since been fixed.
The car Idles kinda rough, but still idles. It has a little off idle stumble, and probably needs more advance. One code I got after I got it running was from the cam position sensor fault ( there isn’t a cam sensor on my engine) I’ll have to turn that off in the tune. Basically, this engine is running like a 2001 Vortec L31 350 without a distributor. Batch fire fuel injection -vs. Sequential fire. Same ignition coil/module same firing order, only using the opti spark distributor as a cap and rotor.
no opti electronics being used. It is using the crankshaft position sensor and reluctor to fire the engine.

Here’s my readings that were taken most recently:


RPM’s. 2443
IAT. 75F
Spark. 35deg
IAC position 209cnt
Baro press. 17.65 inhg
CMP retard. -28deg.
Desired IAC airflow
18 g/s
Desired idle speed 825 rpms
ECT- 109F
Engine load 82%
Fuel Trim cell 21
Fuel trim learn disabled
H02S bank 1sensor 1v
456Mv
HO2S bank 1sensor 2v
447Mv
HO2S bank 2sensor 2v
443Mv
HO2S bank 2sensor 1v
464Mv
Ign. 1 signalv 13.5v
Knock retard 0 deg
Ltft bank 1 0.0%
Ltft bank2 0.0%
Loop status open
MAF sensor 25.51 g/s
Map sensor 7.38 inhg
Map sensor Volts .77v
Stft bank 1 0.0%
Stft bank 2 0.0%
TP sensor volts. .22v
MAF Sensor hertz 3236.8 hz

My .Bin file :

Please feel free to suggest what I need to make this beast run better.
Probably more like the stock LT1 spark and fuel tables.
Thanks!
Ben Smith

[dave w]

Thank you for the progress update, especially the psted .bin file. What would be helpful for me and several other members interested your LT1 / 0411 project would be to post the original .bin file you started with. Several members, including myself, have the "expensive" software to compare the original .bin vs. the 0411_LT1 .bin. Just looking at modified .bin file is not very helpful, but comparing the .bin files shows what parameters were changed and MOST IMPORTANTLY how much of a change!

dave w

[In-Tech]

Hello everyone,
Here is the starting .bin and .cal(TC) we began with. I was thinking it would be great to make this a group project so the next guy would have an even better starting point. Unfortunately my time is very limited to help :( I will try to have an updated .bin file tonight for Ben(Snipescastle2) to try after dinner. Them snipes are good eatin :innocent2:

[Snipescastle2]

Carl,
Most of the “Snipes” I’m referring to, are “Hole Snipes” as in NAVY engineering folks��
I appreciate all the help thus far! The hard part is behind me, now to dial this puppy in!!!
Have a great evening!
Ben Smith

[In-Tech]

Here it is with the cam sensor fault corrected, sorry about that. We gotta see what this thing is doing when you get a chance to do some logging.

[dave w]

Attached are compare differences:
Source File: 0411 LT1 OS12208322 Files\01ExpressVan3500_L31_4l80E.cal
Compare File: 0411 LT1 OS12208322 Files\0411_Lt1_OS12208322_B.bin

dave w

[Snipescastle2]

Hello everyone! I’m still trying to wrap my head around this project,
it feels more like I’m getting “Wrapped around the axle” I’m reading more
about spark tables and advancing/retarding the timing according to
map-vs.rpm’s-vs.temp, etc. I found an online calculator that helps you
start initial spark tables, perhaps one of you guy’s can look this over and
see if it comes close. It’s from a site that uses “microSquirt” efi.
It ask’s specifics like:

http://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm



Cylinder Bore:
inches millimeters


Combustion Chamber Type:
open chamber - little or no quench 2-valve closed chamber w/ optimized quench 3 or 4 valve engines, w/ swirl&tumble


Fuel:
regular (87 octane) mid-grade (91 or 92 octane) premium (94+ octane) E85


Compression Ratio:
< 9.0:1 9.1:1 to 10.0:1 10.1:1 to 11.5:1 > 11.6:1


Idle Vacuum:
in·Hg


Maximum boost level:
(0 for naturally aspirated,
max. boost (psi) for turbo/supercharged)
psi
(21 psi maximum)


Maximum RPM:
RPM


Idle RPM:
RPM


Spark advance table dimensions:
8×8 12×12 16×16 24×24 MS-I uses 8×8 tables;
MS-II, MicroSquirt, and the Sequencer use 12×12 tables.






if anyone has a different calculator or spreadsheets that can help us “Noobies” Please share,
I really want to understand the flow of how everything works together.
thanks again!
have a great day!
Ben Smith

[Snipescastle2]

Hello all!
Just thought I’d post an update to my project. After chasing gremlins for the better part
Of the last week, I figured out two problems with my setup.
1.) I’m sure everyone has witnessed “broken MAP sensor connector locks breaking” Well, mine
Was no better. Since I had a couple spare connectors handy, I un-pinned the wires from the
connector, but “ failed to mark each Wire location” ( the middle one was easy, the light green sensing wire)
But I managed to swap the 5v ref. Wire with the ground and, the readings I got confused the hell out of me.
When I back probed the connector of the gray 5v ref wire, it was right on, and the ground as well,
But when I installed the connector on the sensor, well you know the rest: my 5v ref signal was reading 1.745volts-
Wtf? And my Map sensor read 25 KPA all the time, regardless of engine rpm’s. I finally gave in and broke out
the schematics (again) to verify the order of wires to the map connector ( insert bone head mistake of the year award here) 1E2ADEF1-37F3-43CD-BBF6-9EFB2B62423B.gif
After I corrected that, my MAP sensor reads spot on now,
And the engine is Idling smooth again.

My second problem was my TPS sensor would not adjust to .5volts, I even elongated the mounting holes,
I finally had to bend the tab on the Throttle body (at the adjustment screw) in order to get my adjustment right.

So now, I have no DTC’s and I can proceed with data logging and fine tuning this beast. (Just in time to put it away
for winter) dang.......
It's been a real learning curve to say the least, but as they say: “ Knowledge is power” I’ve never “thrown in the Towel” on any project I’ve started , and I don’t intend to start now!
Well, work calls so have a Great Day!
Ben Smith

[Snipescastle2]

Hello everyone!
Just wanted to update everyone on what I’ve accomplished so far. I finally found the reason
my engine was running so rough, and I am embarrassed to say, I had a “Brain Fart” while re pinning
my harness....I’m sure most, if not all have found the retaining clip on the MAP sensor is prone to breaking
Off. I had an extra connector laying around and decided to unpin the wires and simply swap the connector.
Well, I didn’t mark the locations and mixed them up (the light green sensing wire was easy, since it was in the
center, but I had the 5v ref. And ground swapped) so I kept getting weird reference voltage readings like 1.73 volts
But everything is good now, with the exception of a bad O2 sensor ( and I just replaced with new Delco sensors)

So, I wanted to post my data log here for everyone to review and feel free to make any suggestions to what I need to change/modify to get this beast “dialed in”!
One thing I noticed while driving the car: at deceleration, it backfires Through the exhaust, and randomly while driving.
I’m sure that bank two O2 sensor is causing that. I also noticed my speedo was off, it was reading “30 mph” when it was more like “60 mph” likely the VSS pulse count need changing.
So, here is the data logs I have made so far, and I’ll get more done later after I replace that O2 sensor.
Thanks!
Ben Smith

[Snipescastle2]

Hello again! I’ve replaced my non functioning O2 sensor(bank 2 sensor 1) and I’m going to
do more data logging tomorrow. While driving the other day, and even when the engine was
idling, it was “Back Firing” through the exhaust, not sure if the bad O2 sensor might have contributed
to this. I’m sure my timing needs addressing, as the car doesn’t have much power while “Rowing
through the gears” well, I’ll post more logs when I record them.
Have a good one!
Ben Smith

[bk2life]

anything new? or stuck away fro winter?

[Snipescastle2]

No, as a matter of fact, replacing the plugs and O2 Sensors today, I dont have much time to work on my car as I’d like, so Sundays are it. Hoping I get some results today.I’ll post later on what I find out.
Ben Smith

[Snipescastle2]

Hello all,
been trying to get over this Dreaded "covid" thing, been lucky up till now. two years and never caught it, guess my luck had run out. IO had all but given up on the firebird 0411 swap, had it running for a good six months, then one day last winter, while driving home she back-fired on me and never was able to figure out why. had replaced the coil, crankshaft sensor and ignition module, but never could get it fire again.
so, I set about testing each and every sensor, I got the coil to fire by manually by applying a one volt signal to the module if I recall correctly. but I could not get the crankshaft sensor to pulse, I tried
to switch around the leads on the sensor, but couldn't get the required signal from the PCM. I have since obtained one of those pocket nano oscilloscopes to check the wave length of the signal.
i'll have to try that and see if I get a good signal.
I recently went "backwards" in my setup, as I changed over to a carbureted setup, thinking I'd drive the car for a while I researched all my gremlins, but I have been having a change of heart, and Now I'm going to "un-do" my changes. I think all the pulling of the PCM for programming and /or checking of the pins may have caused some connections to break or lose contact. so I'm changing my wiring harness to ensure I have good connections end for end. since all my sensors are new, shouldn't be too difficult to achieve. My only hope is that the weather stays nice while I'm under the hood!
I hope everyone had a great Christmas and New Years, hope to get this turkey (Firebird) finished soon,
Have a good one!
Ben Smith