what am i doing wrong?

[CapriceLT1]

Hey guys,I have a 95 9C1 (LT1 motor). I downloaded Tuner-pro RT and registered it. I have the these bins/xdf's/adx's for it.


95COP.bin‎ (http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=547&d=1322095453)
$EE-16188051-V3.2.adx‎ (http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=1615&d=1328968079)
$EE-16188051-V3.xdf‎ (http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=1422&d=1326168348)
From the find your xdf and adx look up. All are at the top of my screen ready to go but it seems like im missing something but I cant figure it out there is so much on there!! Everything initializes and says its ready except the DA?The DA is not linking or w/e (dont have the screen in front of me) its the yellow part at the bottom about 4 boxes in.  Everything else links up. The graphs/dash does not read anything, it just stays still. I can not read anything on the dash or view any graphs while key is on or car is running. did i forget to download something??

[CapriceLT1]

Like, all the gauges read zero...do i have to mask something? or does the one file already mask it....pulling at straws since i have no idea what the problem is lol. These arnt mine, i copied the pic from the site so you guys might get a better understanding of what im talking about

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=2155&d=1333581130

[jrgcjnl]

first of all you need to make sure your cable is on a com port (under device manager)
if it is, then open up tunerpro then open up preferences under tools at the top
then under data acquisition click configure plug in component
then make sure the com port there matches the one on your cable, then press ok
then next to the ADX settings at the top toolbar, click the two blue arrows and see if that works, if the data is unstable (not reading correctly but still moving crazily) go ahead and click it again, wait about 2-3 seconds and try again, if not
keep retrying until you have smooth accurate data
that should be it

[EagleMark]

With your cable plugged in restart computer. Then open TunerPro and go to Tools, Preferences, Data Acq/Emulation and choose Plug in, then Configure Plug In Component and see if it is on the right Com port. Then test cable. Do this while not hooked to car. If it finds cable move on. If not move cable to another USB port and try again. If you run out of USB ports then look to see what Com port it is on. Start, Devices and Printers, find the cable, right click and properties.

LT1 comes in a few different cars and they have different modules on the ALDL line. Depending on car some need to be connected, disconnected and connected again to get good data the way this ADX file is set up. But that is usually bad data, I think your cable is not installed correctly or configured correctly in TunerPro.

[CapriceLT1]

Alright. I did as you guys said. I'm getting farther but still hitting bumps...I'm just going to list everything im doing

-Data Acquisition is plug in configuration; Standard serial-Cable found and functional in COM 5 (while plugged and unplugged)
-Initialized Hardware (Found) NEMUv86.254N
-DA Connected then it started flashing (on the DA part) that there were errors and it started counting them for a while.
-I was able to start Emulating but it said "I think you are mistaken" did you mean Bank 8? but i can only choose banks 0,1, and 2. After I try to stop something the emulating keeps going along with the DA Acquisition and the Plug in in still initialized but the Blue button that starts the emulation goes away and i cant hit it again so i restart and do everything over again hoping it will change but it doesn't. Definitely farther than i got before. I still can not get the dash to turn on or data to run and i believe it is because of the DA errors that keep being found. But I don't know what they are, how to find them and how to fix them.

Did you say i may need another ADX?

[CapriceLT1]

Sorry for the bad quality, its from my cell phone. Just trying to give you guys as much info as I can. In the first vid i revved the engine up twice to about 5k


http://youtu.be/wrZcS3XYEkU


http://youtu.be/5uCLqXY3aKE

[EagleMark]

You can not emulate an LT1 ! Do not click the Emulate button. You need to data log by clicking the 2 arrows or Acquisition, Start Stop Data Scan.

[EagleMark]

Do you have internet access on laptop while in car? If so send me a remote accsess invitation and your phone number to mark at eagle-mark.com

[CapriceLT1]

I dont have internet on laptop while in the car, I have been running back and forth. I'll see if i can get a cheap wireless router for it. Until then i wont emulate and will try again. Thanks eaglemark! wish me luck....

[CapriceLT1]

Ok, I can data log but if i click the 2 arrows the DA starts saying its connected but its finding errors (up to 385). I logged data twice but there was nothing to log/play back because the Dash,grphs and monitors were all dead. Do i have the wrong files? I did not and wont emulate again. I went to aqustion, start data log, ran it in the driveway at idle pressing on various things to try and enable the dash and graphs to respond but i didnt then i ended that log and took it around the block while recording. I was hoping maybe it would record something but its 1 minute of dead dash....:mad1: DA connecting still but flashes with errors. I can log data but there is nothing to log. When i was logging it was green but it did not show the length of the video. Is there a video on youtube that shows how to do this? I checked the forum and couldnt find anything. Even on youtube.com they have people that are frustrated and cant get it to work or they have people just flying through it or not showing me the steps i need to take to get this to work. Maybe its the files i have or maybe its me:mad1:

[EagleMark]

It may be the file if you have everything else set? Big problem with cables in USB ports to TunerPro is USB/Com port moves, I have to find which one works on my computer each time I start it. So start your computer, do the cable test before plugging into car and make sure cable is in correct USB port, next time it may move!

The LT1 engine came in a few different cars all of which have different modules tied into ALDL line, the file you have from the $EE info thread is set for my Buick Roadmaster, but works on others if connected and disconnected and connected again. Problem for me to get them right for every car is once a guy gets it working I don't get any feedback so I can adjust for each car. I know it works on LT1 Camaro if done twice but guy never wanted to test to get it to work properly once.

Here are three more files, all the same with different connections. Make sure cable is in right USB port as mentioned above. Start car and try one twice, take notes of what happened. Turn car off for one minute, start car and try next one twice, take notes of what happened. Rinse and repeat...

[EagleMark]

I also just watched your second video again, you said car was not on! You will not get data with car off! Some cars can be connected then started but I have never got that to work on any 94 up LT1.

So start car! Then try ADX you have twice and others with directions from above and we will get one dialed in for LT1 Caprice.

[CapriceLT1]

Thanks EagleMark! I have to take the woman out but will play with it at work tomorrow. But i know the car is supposed to be on lol. I just turned it off to play with the settings. I will get back to you as soon as Im done. Thanks again for all the help

[CapriceLT1]

-Turn Ignition on
-Plug in cable
-Start Tuner-pro RT
-Make sure my 95COP.bin is there and the xdf is there.
-Initialize hardware, it connects. Load ADX
-Click on blue arrows
Same thing happens all 3 times with new ADX's from EagleMark. Could it be XDF?
I disconnected and re-connected after i changed each ADX.

It still says errors and won't show the Dash/graph monitoring system live. The cars idling at around 700 rpm and it still says 0. I want it to work soooo bad :(

[gregs78cam]

Try a different USB cable. I had issues with uploading and verifying in the camaro on occasion and swapped USB and haven't had a problem since.

[EagleMark]

Maybe! But lets do it right first!

First you do not need an XDF file or a bin file to data log.

Next your pushing to many buttons again!
-Initialize hardware, it connects. That's the same thing as emulate, you don't have any hardware to Initialize, all you have is a cable which needs nothing more then clicking the double blue arrows...

Rinse and Repeat!

Make sure cable is in USB port and found in TunerPro, USB ports can move around... if TunerPro can't find it move it to another USB port, then click connect/blue arrows.

[CapriceLT1]

F'n ay lol. Ok the button i am pushing to find the cable is the one i am pushing. It finds it. Its on the same row as the blue arrows and looks like an ALDL cable end


http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-OBD1-Scanner-Cable-Software-USB-to-16-pin-ALDL-direct-GM-OBDI-/110845432864?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19cee71420&vxp=mtr

thats the cable i am using

[EagleMark]

No your clicking the button to Initialize Emulation Hardware. You don't have emulation hardware and if you did you can not emulate the LT1 PCM.

All you have to do is set the cable up correctly from Tools, Preferences, Data Acq/Emulation.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=2364&stc=1&d=1336756218

[CapriceLT1]

tool/preferences same setup as what the pic shows. still nothing on the dash. Error keeps occuring so i stopped hitting the blue arrows went back and switched to autoprom mode or whatever and dashes still showed nothing but when the DA was connected it was blue and no errors occured. I do test for valid interface using the settings and it says the cable is connected and ready to be used.

If i have the settings set at what you have in the pic above, then press the 2 blue arrows and DA errors occur but is connected but dash shows nothing then....

[EagleMark]

Did you test for Valid Interface Using settings? This is how you test the cable...

Have you looked to see what Com port the cable is on?

[CapriceLT1]

It is com port 5, i have tested it using the interface. But since I am not pressing the button that looks like the aldl cable there is no Nemu or ostrich connection like before, which i guess i dont need because you said that that was part of emulation? The da does connect but errors occur. corrupted bin file? Since i know nothing about tuning im really pulling at straws. Anyone in the WNY area that has tunerpro rt?

[EagleMark]

If your cable is on Com port 5 and TunerPro see's it on Comport 5 and get a valid test for interface cable while not hooked to car, then your ready. Hook to car, start car and try each of those ADX files twice each. First one should work on second shot I am told with 94 Caprice LT1. But one of the others may work first shot.

If you can get a wireless internet on the laptop in car I can do it.

[CapriceLT1]

Mine is a 95

[EagleMark]

There are some differences in 94 to 95 but data is same and there are no other module changes. Module changes are on different cars.

[CapriceLT1]

Will try again in the a.m. I can't thank yo enough for walking me through this

[CapriceLT1]

Hey EagleMark, I think im just going to have you link up to my computer lol. I have a 2004? windows XP laptop, can't get the wifi to work. I have a netgear wireless N Router. Would an internet card, wifi usb adapter work? or even attach an ethernet cable to it...let me know and i will go buy this thing and solve this problem!!!

[CapriceLT1]

also (off topic) but with tunerpro rt if i can get it running right, can i put my 52mm throttle body on my car and adjust everything via tunerpro i.e. transmission line pressure etc? Or would i need to send it off to pcmperformance or bry herter? It would be cool if i could do it myself

[EagleMark]

Hey EagleMark, I think im just going to have you link up to my computer lol. I have a 2004? windows XP laptop, can't get the wifi to work. I have a netgear wireless N Router. Would an internet card, wifi usb adapter work? or even attach an ethernet cable to it...let me know and i will go buy this thing and solve this problem!!!That sounds like a lot of work and you have to have XP Pro to send an invitation, I don't know how to get into XP home on the net, I can with my desktop here on same network... see if you can send an invitation for remote assistance?


also (off topic) but with tunerpro rt if i can get it running right, can i put my 52mm throttle body on my car and adjust everything via tunerpro i.e. transmission line pressure etc? Or would i need to send it off to pcmperformance or bry herter? It would be cool if i could do it myselfYes you can do all that and more, anything they can do you can do. Must have TunerCat Winflash which is $20.

[phonedawgz]

Does this video thread help?

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAA721B5634A4EC45&feature=mh_lolz

I (http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAA721B5634A4EC45&feature=mh_lolz)f you do end up with a hardware problem with the cable, hit me up.

[CapriceLT1]

Does this video thread help?

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAA721B5634A4EC45&feature=mh_lolz

I (http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAA721B5634A4EC45&feature=mh_lolz)f you do end up with a hardware problem with the cable, hit me up.


Will have to later tonight after work, my forums arnt blocked but my college stuff and youtube is lol. I will get back to you boys later. Thanks phonedawgz for jumping in!

[CapriceLT1]

Woohoo!! Alright, i uninstalled and reinstalled the reddevil software, set my comport etc and went onto Tuner-pro RT and DA connected everything was ok and the dashes are reading but they are just going left to right like crazy. I have gotten this far, where do i go from here? I will try each adx file i have twice as soon as i get home from work (7:30ish) and will let you guys know if they read correctly. But it connected and showed me the htz and everything so hopefully trying them again and again i might get it right

[EagleMark]

Woo Hoo!

Now if you do the tests for each ADX as I described we will get one dialed in for the Caprice.

[CapriceLT1]

I jumped up in my seat when it went through lol :rockon:

[CapriceLT1]

While ignition on its at 50 rpm, no big deal. everthing else looks ok, what do you guys think? and how do i add the WOT_BLM blocker and erase trouble codes, id like to get into tuning now:happy:

[EagleMark]

What ADX file? Did it connect first time? Engine has to be running before connection on these.

Right now you have a code 43 and 76 set so you need to clear codes! This may also be the reason you are in Cat Converter Overtemp mode the whole time, maybe not. But in this mode BLM is locked to 128, BLM enable is off and your pig rich, have to find out why before you can tune anything.

[CapriceLT1]

What ADX file? Did it connect first time? Engine has to be running before connection on these.

Right now you have a code 43 and 76 set so you need to clear codes! This may also be the reason you are in Cat Converter Overtemp mode the whole time, maybe not. But in this mode BLM is locked to 128, BLM enable is off and your pig rich, have to find out why before you can tune anything.


I have a new FPR i am going to put on. I dont know what data to compare it too to look at whats wrong but the code 43 is the new knock sensors, connectors and rewiring to PCM. It wont go off. I think i can check my knock sensor voltage with this TunerPro RT right? I think I have 0 knocks on both so im going to check the pcm continuity tonight and change the fuel pressure regulator. FPR and 0 on both knock sensors could explain why im rich. any thing else look wrong?

[EagleMark]

What ADX file? Did it connect first time? Engine has to be running before connection on these.


Pull batterey cable for a minute to clear codes.

I'd like to show you how in the ADX but after asking several times I don't know what file you used or how it worked so don't know how it will respond. I did all this work to get an ADX file dialed in for the Caprice guys, now no feedback and dead in water...

[CapriceLT1]

Thats the file I am using, sorry for not posting the adx file....

[CapriceLT1]

Pull batterey cable for a minute to clear codes.

I'd like to show you how in the ADX but after asking several times I don't know what file you used or how it worked so don't know how it will respond. I did all this work to get an ADX file dialed in for the Caprice guys, now no feedback and dead in water...


Im sorry, If you would like i would be your Caprice ADX guinea pig if not i understand because its alot of work. At some point in this i stepped on the gas to burn rubber, i used the a/c on max and regular, turned on heat and window defroster....pretty much anything i know would show up on the log. I know the a/c doesnt matter but maybe its because its overcharged? Im watching the file and i do notice my knock retard is going off but im not sure what/when it is. I disconnected the battery and will look up codes with the program ( i think i can).

Im doing my FPR tonigh before driving about 30 miles to my gf's, that should be a lot of data for us to find out whats wrong lol. And If you want ill record everything and give you feedback to better this adx file ONLY if your up to it. Just let me know.

Again, I can't thank you guys enough. Now i just need to fix the codes

.

[EagleMark]

Thats the file I am using, sorry for not posting the adx file....After you start the car this connects first shot? If it hooks up first shot then the file does not need any improving or checking, it's all done. But you can customize anyway you like. I know everything works in the file, the problem is I only have a 94 Buick Roadmaster LT1 and the file connects with it. But other same years cars have different modules and need different connection commands. This is the only area I would like you to be a Guinea pig for! After that I'll help best I can to teach you to use it.



Right now you have a code 43 and 76 set so you need to clear codes! This may also be the reason you are in Cat Converter (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=cat+converter) Overtemp mode the whole time, maybe not. But in this mode BLM is locked to 128, BLM enable is off and your pig rich, have to find out why before you can tune anything. Like I said earlier, these need to be fixed first! Data is no good with PCM in Cat Converter Overtemp mode! Nothing is correct for tuning data! It's pig rich! It's not running right!

Clear codes and run car and see if they come back? If they do they have to be fixed. Can't see correct data and car is not running right like this.

Have you checked fuel pressure? What is it? Why do you need a new FPR?

To clear codes without disconnecting batterey with TunerPro go to Acqusisiton, Edit definition and look for Monitor, it is set to engine connection, change it to Clear data, then start car and connect, look at your Item list under error codes and they will be going crazy. Dis connect, turn car off, restart car and all codes are clear. We will see what comes back?

To monitor engine again have to go back and put Engine data back in monitor.

[CapriceLT1]

On the tutorial that was posted earlier i saw the guy in the vid decrease CAT temp? so that it would perform better or so the codes wouldnt show up. But battery is out, if codes come back on I will use tunerpro to clear codes, I noticed I am getting knock on the monitor but it spiked almost at the end and thats when i floored it but my rpm's were low. Im not saying the adx needs to be fixed but made better to suit my car, i think you did a great job!! Im replacing the FPR because i have a new one off my old 94 9C1 and thought that could be why im dumping fuel like you said....or running rich? Not sure what you mean. I work for an auto parts store so I can throw parts at anything i think might be wrong lol but have enough parts off the old beast to keep the current one alive. I am going to use TP RT tonight to see if the gauges and monitors are all working correctly because i deff went over 60 and I dont think it showed me going that fast. Ill use my GPS to see the top speed then cross check with tp RT and If you want i can put the log on here but it might be long. I'll only post it if something seems wrong and ll include the time on the log so you dont have to watch a graph and monitor for 25 minutes lol. I will wait on the FPR change though. But what do you mean pig rich? Like gas pouring into engine? If thats what you mean then id guess it would be the FPR

[EagleMark]

Cat Converter Overheat is on, I've never had that happen? But your BLM and INT are not moving, meaning the engine is running on fuel tables with no adjustment from O2 sensors. O2 readings are in .900 to 1.000 which is pegged rich. Even though both right and left O2 sensors are ready and in closed loop, BLM learn is off!

If you work at auto parts store just check pressure, should be 43.5 at idle and go up about 5-6 PSI with no vacuum.

If MPH are off it's your car and not the ADX file. If you changed tires or gears etc... then the bin file in PCM needs to be adjusted for that.

With it running this way there's no reason to worry about knock... I take that back, just watched some more of your data, you have HUGE knock retard almost constantly while accelerating. I would not drive the car until it is fixed and running properly.

[CapriceLT1]

Cat Converter Overheat is on, I've never had that happen? But your BLM and INT are not moving, meaning the engine is running on fuel tables with no adjustment from O2 sensors. O2 readings are in .900 to 1.000 which is pegged rich. Even though both right and left O2 sensors are ready and in closed loop, BLM learn is off!


With it running this way there's no reason to worry about knock... I take that back, just watched some more of your data, you have HUGE knock retard almost constantly while accelerating. I would not drive the car until it is fixed and running properly.

Its my only car, my bike is ninja is broken lol. I recorded the whole trip to my gf's. Is knock supposed to jump when throttle is higher? There were some points where i just floored it. And BLM should be on? I am going to check continuity and recheck the lines i rewired but it is surprisingly running (feels) better than before. so i should have 0 retard while accelerating? i just re-torqued the one side to 12 lb/fts which is what the impalassforum guys said i should do, the other is around there but its a tight squeeze. Check continuity, wiring, power of wires etc tomorrow. Do you think I should go on there and ask for more help? I havn't gotten any replies from them on my knock issue

[CapriceLT1]

heres code 73, not A/C


Code 73- Pressure control solenoid. (1994-95). Check the pressure solenoid. Normal resistance is between 3-8 ohms at 20C (68F).Replace if out of range. Check lines for damage. Check for clogged filter and replace f necessary.

Code 43- Knock sensor circuit. Check ecm for open or short to ground. Check routing of wiring, including spark plug wires near knock senor wiring, reroute as necessary. Replace knock sensor.

checking PCM tomorrow but maybe bad KS? or bad wiring on my part

On impalassforum i posted the code 43 prob in a few diff places in the past few weeks and need it fixed ASAP. Just posted in hopefully a better section. 150+ views and no comments or maybes.....

[EagleMark]

What have you done to the knock module in PCM or wiring to knock sensors?

I'm not sure what code 73 is but will look? 70's are usually trans...

[CapriceLT1]

It had a stock LT1 module in it (with the code still there) So I put an LT4 module in. I have new sensors and the connectors that run from the KS to the PCM (port 22 blue i think if i remember right off hand) are new as is the wires so that i can rule out any burnt or corroded wires and i have fresh one running to the blue wire (prong) on the PCM where the original wire was, i connected the new ones there. After all that it seemed better but as you can tell i am not where it should be. But iv been driving it like this since January, is it really bad for me to drive it? I know its certainly not good but HOW bad is really the question i guess

[EagleMark]

Well pig rich and no closed loop while knock is pulling up to 15 degrees timing? Mine pulls 1 degree at 5100 RPM inbetween shifts...

Check the oil and smell it! If it smells like gas then your washing out the oil in cylinders...

It's running bad, your MPG must be horrible...

[CapriceLT1]

Well pig rich and no closed loop while knock is pulling up to 15 degrees timing? Mine pulls 1 degree at 5100 RPM inbetween shifts...

Check the oil and smell it! If it smells like gas then your washing out the oil in cylinders...

It's running bad, your MPG must be horrible...


Last summer 17mpg, with this code 43 im getting 10 mpg on average. so yea. I work at Napa and im getting a new pcm because i had my friend at the shop go through it all to make sure i didn't do anything wrong and everything was right and he said hes worked on an LT1 with the same problem and the one wire/connector (something) inside the PCM was burned out. So for 80$ i have a new PCM flashed and ready to go on Tuesday. and there is no gas in oil. After I put the new one in everything should be back to normal (fingers crossed) and I will let you guys know whats going on. My current pcm has a crazy amount of salt rust build up, that's what i get for living in NY lol. You guys are awesome on here, you actually respond to my posts and i really appreciate it!!


But the cats overheating? Can you explain that one?

[EagleMark]

But the cats overheating? Can you explain that one?It is in Cat Conv overtemp mode which would make it run rich to cool off cat! That is a issue that needs to be addressed and with codes set that has to be addressed first. Then a data log to see when Cat Conv overheat temp mode comes on and why?

[CapriceLT1]

why the new PCM? Because i have new sensors, connectors and wiring to bypass the wiring harness and the only thing left would be the PCM. I have continuity and the correct amount of power so there is nothing left. Its 80$ for a reman'd updated flashed PCM for me so i figured why not since i talked to a few shop buddies and they said the same thing and they have seen it happen. LT1's are mechanically strong but in WNY area the weather and rust destroy all the electrical stuff lol

[EagleMark]

I've seen weird issues with ECM/PCM as well that do not show up on any test, rare but does happen. Are you saying your shop buddies know this Cat Canv Overtemp is a known PCM issue or just the general PCM weird issue? I like to know, known issues! This is one I have not had to deal with. Normally if a cat is in or near overtemp it is cooled down by richening mixture and happens quite fast and goes off...

[CapriceLT1]

I was talking about the Code 43 being related to the PCM since that is what i rewired and re did everything. I didnt ask anything about the cats though. Tomorrow i get the new PCM and that should clear up code 43 and maybe cat temps (fingers crossed!!!!!!!!!)

[CapriceLT1]

New PCM. Runs better i think but code is still there after re-setting comp multiple times. Only thing I can think of is battery grounds. What do you guys think? And i know we went from "how to use tuner pro" to "whats wrong with my car" so if you want me to post in another section just let me know

[CapriceLT1]

Just to keep everyone in the loop. I am putting grounding straps and cables all over my vehicle as i think thats part of my problem and I also defected the knock sensors i got from work and got new ones so hopefully the code 43 will go away and i can start tuning. But i cant start until the codes are gone?? And EM! the BLM WOT throttle blocker ( i think thats what its called) what does that do to performance/fuel mileage etc??

[EagleMark]

Grounds can always be considered especially in the salt winter states.

Well you've done the LT4 knock module conversion with knock sensors, PCM is now ruled out.. just opened up a PCM I have here on the bench and there's 8 pins, pretty robust and visable in PCM, not visable at all in knock module unless you pull module out of white plastic holder, so I'd have to pull it apart and see that no pins are bent etc... in that! Do you still have the old LT1 knock module to pop in and see if code 43 goes away? If pins are fine could we be dealing with a failed LT4 knock module?

Did the Cat Conv Over temp go away with PCM change? Curious if the 2 are related?

Have you checked over at ImpalaSS forum to see if anything needs to be changed in bin with the LT4 knock conversion? I've never done this...

[CapriceLT1]

Sorry for getting back so late. I dont think anything needs to get changed in the bin file but will double check. With new PCM I still have CATs overheating. Everything else seems to be normal. I actually did a log after the new PCM. I am going to re-check the wiring and add another ground or two. My battery cable giong to the starter was totally corraded as was the studs on the starter so they broke off when i went to add the ground. I think my battery is going bad, and I am going to defect the knock sensors i have and i have a warranty on the battery so that should hopefully get done tonight and I will let you guys know what I am dealing with.


No tuning whatsoever with the code on? I'd like to add the BLM WOT blocker since it might help with gas mileage right? Thats what it does?

[EagleMark]

The WOT BLM Locker locks BLM and INT readings to 128 at WOT so PE fuel is actually adding to AFR. It is for power, not MPG.

There's no temp sender to say cats are overheating, it's a calculation from the way PCM is running, so it must be lean. Have you checked fuel pressure? Post a log.

[CapriceLT1]

Heres for your lt4 knock mod question


http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=273248


(http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=273248)will post log asap

[CapriceLT1]

Alright....My 9C1's transmission is going, it needs paint and the knock sensors all tested ok along with the connections. Theres electrical issues and it runs like crap. New trans is worth more than the car so Im taking the motor out since thats still good, keeping the harness and new comp and parting everything else though. I just bought an S-10 stepside 3 door(4.3L W/TOW package) and thats really what i need. needs an o2 sensor then, I can finally tune a vehicle!:rockon: I am going to miss my 9C1 though, but there are somethings you just have to let go... :(


I will deffinatley be asking for help on the "sten". Hopefully better tune for mileage and slight power. not much power but ya know, a lil gitty up

[EagleMark]

I've been threatening to put my LT1 and trans into an S10, or a G body... hope to see your project build!

[CapriceLT1]

For right now i just need a daily driver but that has deff crossed my mind! It would be awesome but am going to stick with small upgrades and TunerPro RT tune with the help of you guys on the forum since i never got to actually start tuning because of my car and its problems lol

[romac55]

Sure would have been nice to see the problem resolved right to the end though ; the rest of us are still wondering WTF . Mark spent a chunk of his life on that Caprice too ; he probably would have liked to see it resolved too , (or watch it burn). LOL . Let us know about your 4.3/S10 tune ; hope it goes better than the LT1 . Be safe...Bob

[CapriceLT1]

Sure would have been nice to see the problem resolved right to the end though ; the rest of us are still wondering WTF . Mark spent a chunk of his life on that Caprice too ; he probably would have liked to see it resolved too , (or watch it burn). LOL . Let us know about your 4.3/S10 tune ; hope it goes better than the LT1 . Be safe...Bob


I'm back to tell you guys what i think happend. I thought about it and after racking my brain it hit me (a while ago i just kept forgetting to log on) When the knock sensor got changed out my friend had to tap the block and use the "fix a thread" on it because it was so bad. My only idea after a few months of not thinkng of that was the thread saver he put in wasnt giving a good reading from the knock sensor to the computer which caused my timing issue

Hope this helps someone in someway because FOR MONTHS i had been going nuts on how things could have gone wrong. The s10
s motor blew and Im looking into an 05 Legacy or Legacy GT whichever comes first. Thanks for the help guys!