Can Someone look over this file and tell me if anything is wrong?

[Syn]

Just as the title says. trying to get some work done to my car and make it run a little better its had headers and some short pipes put on and ive been dealing with rich conditions over and over. Ive tried everything and today i finally got it to run a little better but in the hack file i had a weird knock thing happen (Im new to eehack) and i just want to see if somethings wrong or not.

Link to datalog: http://www.filedropper.com/wot
Car: 94 Z28
Mods: Bored .30 over, Bigger cam (Can supply specs if needed) 3.73 rear gear
Im sorry if i posted in the wrong place im new to the forum

[steveo]

the 'weird knock thing' right at the end of your log is some kind of small error in the datastream right as you stop logging. i wouldn't worry about it too much

if you've been 'dealing with rich conditions', according to your closed loop data you might have went too far. it's adding quite a bit of fuel to keep it running, with logs like this i usually start by making sure the hose between the maf and throttle body isn't leaking or the maf installed backwards or something like that.

it's hard to tell what's going on since you aren't really driving the car in the log, only stabbing the throttle for short periods of time. if you want to tune your base fueling properly, log for longer periods of time in more varied conditions

[dave w]

Hi stevo,
Thank you for helping out SYN. I'm always reluctant to download files from a linked website. Possibly other members share a similar reluctance to download files, other than files attached to the tread?

dave w

[Syn]

@Dave w I tried to just link the file right to the site but it wouldnt let me. I fully tested that site before i posted it.

[Syn]

the 'weird knock thing' right at the end of your log is some kind of small error in the datastream right as you stop logging. i wouldn't worry about it too much

if you've been 'dealing with rich conditions', according to your closed loop data you might have went too far. it's adding quite a bit of fuel to keep it running, with logs like this i usually start by making sure the hose between the maf and throttle body isn't leaking or the maf installed backwards or something like that.

it's hard to tell what's going on since you aren't really driving the car in the log, only stabbing the throttle for short periods of time. if you want to tune your base fueling properly, log for longer periods of time in more varied conditions

How long should i log it? and what all should i do? (Very new to this stuff) Also when you said i went too far. i havent touched the stock tune at all yet.

[c5wagner]

How long should i log it? and what all should i do? (Very new to this stuff) Also when you said i went too far. i havent touched the stock tune at all yet.

Looks like too far with the cam, it has terrible vacuum so it looks like it is adding a ton of fuel.... For data logging, just go for a long 30min to 1hr drive driving like how you would expect you'll normally drive this thing.

[Syn]

Looks like too far with the cam, it has terrible vacuum so it looks like it is adding a ton of fuel.... For data logging, just go for a long 30min to 1hr drive driving like how you would expect you'll normally drive this thing.

Ah alright. i will post that log in here once i have it.

[steveo]

Hi stevo,
Thank you for helping out SYN. I'm always reluctant to download files from a linked website. Possibly other members share a similar reluctance to download files, other than files attached to the tread?

dave w

attaching it to a forum doesn't make it not a virus...


How long should i log it? and what all should i do? (Very new to this stuff) Also when you said i went too far. i havent touched the stock tune at all yet.

all your log tells me is that the ECM is adding a crapload of fuel based on its o2 sensor readings

first ensure that the elbow between the MAF and throttle body is not leaking

go for a long drive, run both low and high load at a wide variety of RPMs with a variety of conditions (up hill, down hill, cruising..)

then run eehack's analyzer

it'll give you a good idea of the fueling changes required

[Syn]

attaching it to a forum doesn't make it not a virus...



all your log tells me is that the ECM is adding a crapload of fuel based on its o2 sensor readings

first ensure that the elbow between the MAF and throttle body is not leaking

go for a long drive, run both low and high load at a wide variety of RPMs with a variety of conditions (up hill, down hill, cruising..)

then run eehack's analyzer

it'll give you a good idea of the fueling changes required

I have a decent log of some around town driving and a few small pulls, it was shutoff twice during the logging for various stops.
http://www.filedropper.com/datalog1

[bobdec]

syn, 1st as stevo said make sure your intake path after the MAS is tight. I run a mild LT4 hot cam on my '94 LT1, (218/228 @50 112LSA , .525/.525 lift w/the 1.6 RR's) . I had to get my idle up to 800 in 'N' to hold a MAP of about 55 kpa at idle. Your desired idle setting is still stock @ 550 and your resultant MAP is 76 kpa . When the poster above previously said 'you may have overdone it) I think it was referring to cam size. If I were you I concentrate on getting idle cleaned up by cranking up idle RPM to increase vacuum as much as possible, watch the ST trims and MAP as you play with idle. Make sure the IAC counts are controlling your idle (not the TB) as the IAC distributes air flow more evenly to all cylinders. Since I'm an A4 my in gear idle is 750 and a stall converter solved the problem of holding the car back at idle in gear. If you get idle straightened out then remember the BLM cell selection and timing tables all use MAP and RPM for correct selection, data logging and analysis will help getting them set up. If A4 shift points should be set to your new CAM power curve. What cam are you running ??

[Fast355]

syn, 1st as stevo said make sure your intake path after the MAS is tight. I run a mild LT4 hot cam on my '94 LT1, (218/228 @50 112LSA , .525/.525 lift w/the 1.6 RR's) . I had to get my idle up to 800 in 'N' to hold a MAP of about 55 kpa at idle. Your desired idle setting is still stock @ 550 and your resultant MAP is 76 kpa . When the poster above previously said 'you may have overdone it) I think it was referring to cam size. If I were you I concentrate on getting idle cleaned up by cranking up idle RPM to increase vacuum as much as possible, watch the ST trims and MAP as you play with idle. Make sure the IAC counts are controlling your idle (not the TB) as the IAC distributes air flow more evenly to all cylinders. Since I'm an A4 my in gear idle is 750 and a stall converter solved the problem of holding the car back at idle in gear. If you get idle straightened out then remember the BLM cell selection and timing tables all use MAP and RPM for correct selection, data logging and analysis will help getting them set up. If A4 shift points should be set to your new CAM power curve. What cam are you running ??

The cam in my Express van degrees out at 218/228 @ .050 with the 1.7 rockers. 110 LSA on a 106 ICL. 0.578/0.578 lift. Idles at 700 rpm @ 60 kpa in Drive. In Park it idles at 750 rpm @ 52 KPA. It has 215cc intake ports. I would also play with adding timing where the engine idles. I idle about 30° of timing. Up from the factory 22-23° a stock L31 idles at. Stock engine idled at 550 rpm and about 40 kpa in Park and 45 in Drive. On the newer GM stuff with HP Tuners you can adjust the timing real time at idle and watch the MAP KPA drop as you fall into what the engine likes. Go too far and it skips at idle for a lack of a better description. I am using the stock factory high stall 4L80E converter that brake stalls about 2,500 rpm. Hydroboost brakes on my setup so idle vacuum is largely irrelavant. It will idle all day long with the a/c on at 700 rpm and 65 kpa. When I hit the throttle from a stop it is at 2,500 rpm instantly and I shift WOT at 6,200.

[bobdec]

Yea, I forgot that "Closed TPS Spark Advance" table, my stock was at 20* for 400-800 RPM, I found setting 400-1200 at 34* and moving other settings up a few degrees as RPM increased helped smooth out the TPS closed-to-open transition in my setup. As a sidebar.. $EEHack 'Control' tab shows some real-time timing alteration (+/- 5*) , I've never used it.

[Syn]

syn, 1st as stevo said make sure your intake path after the MAS is tight. I run a mild LT4 hot cam on my '94 LT1, (218/228 @50 112LSA , .525/.525 lift w/the 1.6 RR's) . I had to get my idle up to 800 in 'N' to hold a MAP of about 55 kpa at idle. Your desired idle setting is still stock @ 550 and your resultant MAP is 76 kpa . When the poster above previously said 'you may have overdone it) I think it was referring to cam size. If I were you I concentrate on getting idle cleaned up by cranking up idle RPM to increase vacuum as much as possible, watch the ST trims and MAP as you play with idle. Make sure the IAC counts are controlling your idle (not the TB) as the IAC distributes air flow more evenly to all cylinders. Since I'm an A4 my in gear idle is 750 and a stall converter solved the problem of holding the car back at idle in gear. If you get idle straightened out then remember the BLM cell selection and timing tables all use MAP and RPM for correct selection, data logging and analysis will help getting them set up. If A4 shift points should be set to your new CAM power curve. What cam are you running ??


Cam size is .230/.230 @50 with .480/.480 lift, and i will look for leaks as soon as im able to. and where im new to tuning im not sure what to look for in the tune. I do have tunercats so i am able to change just about anything computer wise. but im still attempting to learn what i "Need" to change.