Uber-easy DIY USB ALDL Cable

[RobertISaar]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-Module-USB-to-TTL-level-USB-Cable-dupont-248-/260917151841?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbfdfc861

(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-Module-USB-to-TTL-level-USB-Cable-dupont-248-/260917151841?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbfdfc861)let me know if that link doesn't work, but it's what i bought a few weeks ago...

anyways, this convenient little piece of hardware allows you to hook up to a 8192 baud ECM with 2 wires.... no resistors, no ICs, no diodes.... just two simple connections. :homer:

and when it comes to homebrew hardware, simple is always good. just went and tested it on the MC, works great. also passes the tunerpro "test for cable" when unplugged from the car, not something i'm used to with my current cable.

so anyways, before this i was using Parallax 28030 units, which are serial->USB adapters, so i converted the 8192 stuff(basically TTL?) to serial using a MAX232 circuit, then converted serial to USB using the Parallax 28030. ever built a MAX232 on proto boards? they're a pain. then soldering into the solder cups of a DB9 connector? also a pain.

now, assuming you can get ahold of a male ALDL connector or just use the bare pins for whatever reason, you'll have 2 or 4 quick solder joints to make and then you're done. put it in a radioshack project box for like $3(since this came with it's own USB cable) and you're out the door with a USB ALDL cable for just under $12. attach a male OBD1 connector (for $15 plus shipping from ALDLcable.com, or i potentially have an overseas supplier that has a cable that can be used after some tweaking for a little under $9 shipped) and you have a fully functional and professional enough looking cable.

sell it, use it, abuse it, whatever. :)

anyways, tested at 8192 and it works flawlessly. since it uses the FT232RL, it should be a quality, long-lasting unit. i'd like to do a 160 baud test, but i don't want to try and dig out the 85 IROC ECM.

[EagleMark]

Thanks Robert! Saw you looking into this awhile back. Got to be the cheapest way to make a cable on the net! :happy:

[RobertISaar]

cheapest USB.... probably. and by a long shot as well. parallax 28030s are something like $18 shipped IIRC. then add in the MAX232...

i'm more stoked about the fact that it's dead-simple to put together. my previous cables all went through the extravagence of a full MAX232, which was a total pain to put together and took forever compared to this.

[historystamp]

How do you set the baud rate?

Robert

[RobertISaar]

use Tunerpro. when making an ADS (or more recently, the ADX), you can simply choose to use an 8192 baud rate for a connection.

IIRC, 8192 is the default rate in tunerpro anyways, so it won't really even be apparent unless you need to change it.

[FSJ Guy]

Would one of these work?

http://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=Arduino+FT232RL&what=products

[RobertISaar]

while some of them look similar, it doesn't look like the pins that are needed are available?

if the RXD, TXD and ground pins are able to be connected to and it is a TTL to USB(or maybe UART to USB?) converter, then it should work.

note: SHOULD. i researched the one i bought a bit before i pulled the trigger.

[EagleMark]

OK that link was to much fun! Now all we need is a Uber Nerd to use one of these to flash a OBDII PCM?
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9555

Robert in your spare time could you take pictures and links and ? For a formal writup on how to do the Cable? It would be great for the forum and I would convert it to our HTML pages. Many guys want to get into this but like us funds are limited nowadays and this is such a useful and cheap way to spend some time and get involved.

This goes to anyone and everything who wants to contribute something here! :thumbsup:

[RobertISaar]

LOL, i can take 2 pics and write a paragraph, and that's about all that's necessary to explain how to make this type of cable. it's just that easy.

that link though..... quite interesting. it would require converting from UART to USB(or UART to serial) to use it with a computer(could use the adapter i listed earlier from the looks of it), but since it uses ELM327 instruction sets, it can be used with tunerpro to do some basic logging at least...

however, if the "large memory buffer" turns out to be large enough, it COULD be used to flash the PCM as well.... with the right software anyways, but that's always been the hard part.

[EagleMark]

Darn software...

[RobertISaar]

i can't write windows/DOS software worth a damn, otherwise i'd volunteer.... i only seem to work well with 68HC11/similar stuff.

did some digging as well:

http://www.obdsol.com/downloads/stn1110_vs_elm327.pdf

ELM327 has 1.5KB of RAM... the STN piece has 8KB. it also has 4 times as much PROM space and has a processing speed 10X faster as well...

IIRC, the big issue with attempting to use the ELM327 to flash the PCM was due to the ELM unit not being able to handle enough bytes of data at a time for transferring to the PCM.... with this much of a RAM bump, it seems like this at least has a shot at working. need to find someone who knows their OBD2 flashing protocalls to be certain.

[gregs78cam]

Good read here......But you already know that Robert........

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/45378-Elm327-or-similar-device






(http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/45378-Elm327-or-similar-device)

[FSJ Guy]

This one

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8165

looks like it's designed to be plugged into the other end of a USB cable. It has the TX and RX pins that you speak of. Other than that, I have no clue what I'm talking about. :D

I'd definitely be interested in being able to semi-permanently mount a USB connector under my dash to plug in an ALDL cable.

[RobertISaar]

that one LOOKS like it could work. there does seem to be Rx and Tx pins that could be used for the ALDL end, but i'm not 100% certain of it. you would need to tie them together before the ALDL M pin obviously, then assuming there is a ground pin, and that's all the connections necessary.

i don't know why everybody doesn't just buy them from the link i posted, unless you want a potentially more stable supplier?

[EagleMark]

Everytime you post that link costs me an hour looking around... :happy:

OK here's the start of OBDII flash, I did my part now someone needs to do the software...
http://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=obd&what=products

[FSJ Guy]

that one LOOKS like it could work. there does seem to be Rx and Tx pins that could be used for the ALDL end, but i'm not 100% certain of it. you would need to tie them together before the ALDL M pin obviously, then assuming there is a ground pin, and that's all the connections necessary.

i don't know why everybody doesn't just buy them from the link i posted, unless you want a potentially more stable supplier?

Sparkfun is about 45 minutes from my house. They allow online ordering and onsite pickup. :D

For $20, I think it's worth a shot. Thank you!

EDIT: Part is on order. For the minimal shipping charge, I'll just let USPS deliver it! It would cost me twice as much to DRIVE down there! LOL!

I'll update what happens when it arrives. Hopefully I won't let the smoke out!

[kunsan1987]

Here is the one i bought from amazon.i have not been able to try it with an ECM yet but it talks to my garmin gps.

http://www.amazon.com/UART-Module-Serial-Converter-CP2102/dp/B006JKNWLE/ref=pd_ys_iyr_img

[RobertISaar]

the pins necessary are present, however it's a CP2102 IC, which isn't quite as capable as the FT232RL, so it MAY work, but i wouldn't gaurantee it.

[one92rs]

ok so this can be used to make a cable that will datalog for cheaper than the 59 bucks for a cable. i am not an electrical genious here. can someone show me how to make it aor what all i need to make it work. a diagram of sort.

[RobertISaar]

with the one i posted:

connect the RXD and TXD pins together(solder would be my method), then connect that circuit to the ALDL pin M, then connect the ground pin on the converter to the ground pin in the ALDL connector (pin A).

it's that simple.

[one92rs]

i will get a buddy of mine to look at this tomorrow. he is all about electric. he is trying to set up a miata with a/c drive motors right now. thanks buddy.

[EagleMark]

with the one i posted:

connect the RXD and TXD pins together(solder would be my method), then connect that circuit to the ALDL pin M, then connect the ground pin on the converter to the ground pin in the ALDL connector (pin A).

it's that simple.To easy! Does it work? Still to easy... and to cheap... :thumbsup:

[RobertISaar]

i've been using it to troubleshoot my testbench. i seem to get quite a few packet errors on the bench if i don't have my 4K PPM signal hooked up to anything though. if i either connect it to a spare cluster or directly to ground, problem goes away ~99%.

however, when i had it hooked up in-car, i had 0 packet errors, so it must be something about the bench causing it.

[phonedawgz]

USB to ALDL 160 Baud Pin E or 8192 Baud Pin M cable for $55 shipped -

http://www.reddevilriver.com/aldl.html

I (http://www.reddevilriver.com/aldl.html)t does use the FT232RL chip

By the time you do $10-15 for the FT232RT USB, 20.90 for the OBD1 ALDL cable shipped, $5 for the box you are at $40. The pre-built cable is $50 + $5 shipping.

[RobertISaar]

i have a cheaper source for the male connector... ~$9 shipped.

combine that with the $9 for the converter and the $3 it costs for a box, that's just over $20 complete.

[FSJ Guy]

Plus, you really don't NEED a cable connector. You can wire it directly to the harness or use flat connectors to connect to the ALDL port. No fancy connector required.

I still haven't had time to test the one I bought from sparkfun yet.

[RobertISaar]

at this price, you can honestly install them permanantly and not feel too bad about it. $12 for a USB cable instead of an ALDL port.

[Hard Driver]

Where's the pic and write up ?

[RobertISaar]

on my gigantic "to do" list.

[FSJ Guy]

This one

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8165

looks like it's designed to be plugged into the other end of a USB cable. It has the TX and RX pins that you speak of. Other than that, I have no clue what I'm talking about. :D

I'd definitely be interested in being able to semi-permanently mount a USB connector under my dash to plug in an ALDL cable.

SUCCESS!!! I tied the Transmit and Receive (Tx and Rx) lines together and connected them to the data line and connected the grounds together. Plugged it all in and it works!!!! :D

Since I already had an A -> B USB cable lying around, it only cost $21 for a virtually turnkey ALDL cable.

EDIT: I have tried this adapter while actually having the engine RUNNING and it runs for anywhere from 4 seconds to 4 minutes and then fails. The laptop shows the request being sent with no reply from the ECM. For some reason it doesn't work with the engine running. <shrug>

[RobertISaar]

another WIN for the DIY'er.

[kunsan1987]

Well the cp2102 does NOT work and i already had a prolific 2303 so i tried it and was able to get 3 lines of raw data with winaldl and no other data at all.So i'm off to buy a ft232rl.

[RobertISaar]

can't say i didn't predict this. when it comes to 8192, FT232R products are where it's at.

[kunsan1987]

Got one at frys-osepp ftdi breakout board #ftd-01 header socket and solder tabs.it works great with winaldl,but it wont work with tunerpro RT yet>i'll figure it out(already tried recomendations in the other thread).but i'm happy now

[RobertISaar]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-adapter-module-USB-TO-232-for-Arduino-download-cable-/180871619690?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1cc9e46a

another potential option. the way the listing is written, it may convert to RS232 specs, which is not the easy method as decribed before, but would work if using something to convert RS232 to TTL (MAX232, similar).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FT232RL-USB2-0-to-Serial-Module-USB-to-TTL-level-Converter-Adapter-for-Arduino-/261024357909?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc6439e15

probably a winner, USB to TTL. not sure about the 3.3 to 5 volt setup, not really clear on it in the description. looks like the little pads that seem like they're missing a component would be soldered together to cause 5V?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-Module-USB-to-TTL-level-USB-Cable-dupont-248-/260917151841?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbfdfc861

and the most current link for the one i bought before. price seems to have jumped a little. went from 8.80 to 10.80, free shipping in both. still an excellent price, IMO.

[crash8212]

Alright Robert, I took the plunge and ordered 2 of the FT232R setups. 1 to mount permanently and another to make a cable to be used universally. I made the 2-transistor style cable a few days ago but haven't been able to locate a laptop with a serial connection and I'll be damned if I spend $40 for a serial-to-usb converter when I can build USB dedicated cheaper! KUDOS on the find! I will take pics and post the write up, giving you credit of course, if you don't mind.

On a side note, this will be my first real attempt at datalogging. The serial cable hooked to the desktop under my work bench doesn't really reflect on-the-road conditions. I have a 91 4.3L out of an S-10 transplanted into my 93 Jeep Wrangler (all wiring intact) except it has 2001 Vortec heads (so Edelbrock intake and NO EGR) and Edelbrock headers. My goal here is to log data to see if my only tuning problem is the EGR and either have a chip burnt or buy the MOATES APU1 and do it myself. I ran WINALDL but it didn't give me the info I was really looking for so I am now running Tunerpro RT. I would really love to learn this system. I have an AutoTap also for OBD2 that I picked up on Craigslist for next to nothing but have yet to use it

Any suggestions on a route to take for programming?

[FSJ Guy]

If you're going to use your DIY cable, you really don't NEED an AutoProm unless you want to emulate at the same time. The Burn2 will work just fine for burning new chips.

[crash8212]

That is where another of my problems lie. I am new to this and want to learn of quickly. What quicker way to learn than see changes effective immediately. On the other side I want to keep it cheap. *rock and a hard place*

[FSJ Guy]

My truck has stopped running 2 out of the past 3 times I've driven it with the adapter from Sparkfun.

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8165

T (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8165)his is only change I've made to my system.

When the engine dies, oddly enough the Check Engine light DOES NOT come on. And I'm able to restart immediately without any problems.

???

[RobertISaar]

hmm..... this is a first.

i've never had any issues like that with mine.

[FSJ Guy]

I'm wondering if I jiggled some other wires when I did it. Probably just a coincidence....

[Six_Shooter]

Alright Robert, I took the plunge and ordered 2 of the FT232R setups. 1 to mount permanently and another to make a cable to be used universally. I made the 2-transistor style cable a few days ago but haven't been able to locate a laptop with a serial connection and I'll be damned if I spend $40 for a serial-to-usb converter when I can build USB dedicated cheaper! KUDOS on the find! I will take pics and post the write up, giving you credit of course, if you don't mind.

On a side note, this will be my first real attempt at datalogging. The serial cable hooked to the desktop under my work bench doesn't really reflect on-the-road conditions. I have a 91 4.3L out of an S-10 transplanted into my 93 Jeep Wrangler (all wiring intact) except it has 2001 Vortec heads (so Edelbrock intake and NO EGR) and Edelbrock headers. My goal here is to log data to see if my only tuning problem is the EGR and either have a chip burnt or buy the MOATES APU1 and do it myself. I ran WINALDL but it didn't give me the info I was really looking for so I am now running Tunerpro RT. I would really love to learn this system. I have an AutoTap also for OBD2 that I picked up on Craigslist for next to nothing but have yet to use it

Any suggestions on a route to take for programming?

If you're buying/making the datalogging cable, you can use an Ostrich 2.0, along with the datalogging cable, to have real time emulation. You can then use a BURN2 to program an EPROM when you're happy with the tune, or you can use the Ostrich as a permanent replacement for the EPROM.

The APU1, has the EPROM Emulator, datalogging cable and programmer all built into one device. The one nice that that the APU1 has that going the seperates route doesn't is the 3 extra channels that can be datalogged.

[RobertISaar]

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/usb-to-ttl-module-stc-scm-download-board-147863?r=99999999

another potential and ridiculously cheap USB-TTL converter.... it's not FTDI based though, so whether it works with 8192 baud or not is questionable.

[phonedawgz]

The PL2303HX chip is 3.3 to 1.8 on it's TTL output only, so there is no chance of it working for an ALDL cable.

I have tried with the 5v version of the PL2303 (PL2303H) but have not had success.

http://prolificusa.com/docs/2303/all/an_PL2303_productguide_v10B.pdf

T (http://prolificusa.com/portfolio/pl2303hx-rev-d-usb-to-serial-bridge-controller/)o pre-answer the question - many of the boards that use these chips are designed to work with multiple versions of the chips. While the board shows a 5v output, and I think the chip might even offers a 5v power output, the TTL interface is the 3.3v version.

[belaw]

with the one i posted:

connect the RXD and TXD pins together(solder would be my method), then connect that circuit to the ALDL pin M, then connect the ground pin on the converter to the ground pin in the ALDL connector (pin A).

it's that simple.

What do you do with pin B on the ALDL connector?

[phonedawgz]

Earlier OBD1 vehicles need a 10K resistor between pins A and B to start the data flow.

Later OBD1 use bi-directional data flow on pin M and don't require it. Having the 10K resistor between pins A & B won't hurt however.

[RobertISaar]

depends on the application. most cars don't need it, the some that do tend to need a 10K resistor connected from the B pin to the A pin(or the ground on the converter) either temporarily or permanantly.

if you use a male OBD1 connector, then you could simply run a wire from the B pin to a rocker/toggle switch, then to a 10K resistor, then to the ground circuit. you can then hide all of it in a small project box from radioshack. i think i use the 3" X 2" X 1" versions.


Having the 10K resistor between pins A & B won't hurt however.

depends. some applications go into "ALDL mode" and will change the idle speed and add up to 10* of spark advance.

[belaw]

depends on the application. most cars don't need it, the some that do tend to need a 10K resistor connected from the B pin to the A pin(or the ground on the converter) either temporarily or permanantly.

if you use a male OBD1 connector, then you could simply run a wire from the B pin to a rocker/toggle switch, then to a 10K resistor, then to the ground circuit. you can then hide all of it in a small project box from radioshack. i think i use the 3" X 2" X 1" versions.



depends. some applications go into "ALDL mode" and will change the idle speed and add up to 10* of spark advance.

This is for a '7427 PCM and I will probably omit the ALDL connector for a permanent install. So can I just de-pin the white/black wire that terminates at pin B from the PCM and pitch it?

[RobertISaar]

IIRC, the only thing the 7427 uses the ALDL pin B is for blinking out codes if connected directly to ground.

i'm not a 7427 expert though.

[EagleMark]

This 10K needed for 160 Baud ECM is a horrible rumor created on internet that won't go away! Even the Moates website shows 10k resistor needed for all 160 Baud ECMs. 10K really messes up good data on 1227747 and other old 160 Baud ECMs by putting the ECM in ALDL mode, it increases idle and adds timing, not needed at all for data!

Other then checking codes by crossing A and B I've had no use for 10K, it is needed in $6E to start data flowing. I have no idea what else it is used for except to screw up data.

[shimniok]

Glad I found this thread. I'm trying to build an ALDL USB cable using a different TTL serial to USB converter.

WinALDL can't connect to it and neither can TunerPro RT. Only one of my terminal programs displays any data.

Do I *have* to tie the tx/rx lines together for a 160-baud 7747?

The usb/serial converter is on COM11. Maybe TunerPro and WinALDL can't access those ports? Or maybe some incompatibility with the driver for it.

Since we know the FTDI thing works... I may use one of my two FT232 breakout boards from Sparkfun as soon as I can find them :)

One is 3.3V -- what I usually do converting from 5V to 3.3V is to throw a resistor inline to limit current. For an automotive application at such slow rates I might just use a 10K instead of my regular 1k.

More later, hopefully...

[RobertISaar]

with a 7747, no, all you need is the receive part of the circuit, since it doesn't communicate in both directions.

COM11 is fine, i'm all the way up to COM15 at times(i've connected a lot of converters) and i'm still communicating normally.

leave it at 5V, 3.3 might work, but it might also cause more problems.

[phonedawgz]

If you are looking at a 160 baud - one directional cable, and you want to keep the 3.3v input - you should be able to do it with just two resistors to divide the voltage. A single resistor inline won't drop the voltage unless there is current flowing.

From the pin E - connect to resistor A - then tie to both the RX pin and resistor B - and then connect to ground.

Try using a 1K for resistor A, and a 2.2K for resistor B. Check the voltage on the RX pin since the unknown is the resistance of the USB rx input.

You do not have to have TX and RX tied together for 160 baud pin E applications.

TunerPro has no problem with the upper COM ports. I have been up in the 20s with no problem.

[shimniok]

Ok, I found the 5V FTDI breakout board and it worked, sort of.

I can see data coming in over one of the serial ports. I tied tx/rx together and TunerPro RT sees it when the ECM is off or disconnected. Neither it or WinALDL can talk to the thing on COM10, however.

I will have to go find out what to do with TunerPro RT to get it to work with this setup.

Sparkfun did a tutorial on interfacing different voltages some time ago in case anyone finds this useful: http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/65

(http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/65)The single resistor approach probably works best if there's a clamping diode on the 3.3V end. Hmm.

[shimniok]

In TunerPro RT, I had to set 4800 baud and uncheck RS232 echo and it started acquiring data, and revealed an issue to chase down.

[EagleMark]

In TunerPro RT, I had to set 4800 baud and uncheck RS232 echo and it started acquiring data, and revealed an issue to chase down.My $42 ADX file is that way, not sure how yours was differant?

[shimniok]

Mine had 2400 baud (I think) and RS-232 echo checked. I forget where I downloaded it, possibly here. $42-1227747-V4.2.adx *shrug*

[EagleMark]

Hmmm? That's one I did, but never had a reason to change that and the latest version is set to 4800 baud no echo... I've got a truck here to tune and will test it to be sure. If it works OK I'll upload the newest version ADX and XDF for you.

[shimniok]

Thanks. Not sure what happened.

So with ftdi connected the ses light flickers really fast and sort of randomly. And data stream stops. Not sure what's up. Going to dig into that next. Hard to know why the truck won't idle if I can't log data :)

[phonedawgz]

If you shorted A- B, the ses light will blink out the SES codes
If you had the 10K resistor between A and B - then the flashing light will tell you if the ECM is in a rich or lean condition. Note the ECM is supposed to alternate between the rich/lean states

By shorting pin A to B the Diagnostic ALDL connector tells the computer that it should put the SES lamp into Road Test mode. You can monitor the richness of the input by looking at how fast the SES lamp flashes.

If you've got a harness from a car (http://forums.off-road.com/#) and somehow neglected to get the ALDL connector (it's a GM, not Howell connector) then you can still do the test, but it will be a little more involved.

Look at the connector on the ECM. Find pin A9. This is the pin on the connector that would go to terminal "B" on the ALDL.

Pin "A" on the ALDL is simply engine ground and this point on the ECM is pin A12.

So what you're doing is grounding Pin A9 to tell the computer to go into Road Test mode.

Now when the SES lamp is flashing at the rate of about 2.5 times a second, you're in Open Loop. You'll see this happen at idle, and even sometimes when you're crusin' down the street and the engine is not working very hard.

However, after the engin warms up, SES is Off all, or most of the time the engin is running lean.

If the SES is on most of the time... the engine's running rich.

See, it's pretty darned simple:

SES on most of the time = Rich
SES off most of the time = Lean

[EagleMark]

You should build cables and advertise here?

[shimniok]

Okey doke... I broke out my o-scope to look at waveforms, looked fine whether vehicle running or not so that wasn't the problem. I thought it'd be interesting to try and buffer the signal with a PNP and was able to look at waveforms in that case. There may be a ground issue at play but need to investigate further and eliminate loose wiring. :) I was able to collect data during idle for about 30 seconds before TunerPro reported a data error (loose wiring, probably).

EDIT: it was a ground issue. Fixed. Data logging works at idle and engine off. Was able to collect about 3 minutes so far. Will have to test long term once I get this thing on the road. Wouldn't be too hard or costly to build my own circuit board.

Once the truck warmed up it was idling all on its own (not well, but still...) Pretty happy about that! Clearly open loop is whacked out. But this means idle is approximately stable enough to permit me to check and adjust timing. Whew.

I'm relying on Scott for the Autoprom emulator/burner until I can scratch together enough money for one of my own. I want to look into what it'd take to make my own emulator (or more precisely, some device that would permit near real-time bin changes). But all that's off topic.

Scott pointed me to this as a start for a DIY cable: http://www.aldlcable.com/sc/details.asp?item=daewoo

(http://www.aldlcable.com/sc/details.asp?item=daewoo)Pretty cheap too, all things considered.

[FSJ Guy]

That cable is just for the CABLE. No transistors or circuit inside to allow it to talk to the laptop or ECM.

The best setup for real-time emulation is the AutoProm that Scott has. The only reason I got rid of mine was because it can't burn the big chip that I am now using to stack multiple files on. Otherwise, it's an excellent device to allow emulation AND datalogging at the same time.

I'm tired of experimenting with the FTDI chips. I think I'm just going to order a cable from Moates.

[phonedawgz]

I do sell USB to ALDL cables for less.

http://reddevilriver.com/aldl.html

Y (http://reddevilriver.com/aldl.html)es it works out of the box.

Yes it is based on the FT232RL chip

Yes it works for both Pin E 160 Baud and Pin M 8192 Baud

It is available in both 12 pin and 16 pin (OBD2 type) connectors, and also in a bare pin format.

[shimniok]

That cable is just for the CABLE. No transistors or circuit inside to allow it to talk to the laptop or ECM.

Yes, I know. :) Hence a "start" of a DIY cable. :) Sorry for the confusion. What I meant was, you start with that handy cable, then add the FTDI stuff. I'm still working on what that stuff would be. :)

But, if you have the money to spare, IIWY I'd get some form of ALDL / USB cable pre-made like the one phonedawgz sells. Avoid the headaches.

[EagleMark]

Playing with cables and making cool stuff on the bench is fun. But if you want to record data and tune cars then cables are cheap tool!

Trying to get RedRiver to advertise here so we have good cables and someone involved to help with projects like this...

[FSJ Guy]

Yes, I know. :) Hence a "start" of a DIY cable. :) Sorry for the confusion. What I meant was, you start with that handy cable, then add the FTDI stuff. I'm still working on what that stuff would be. :)

But, if you have the money to spare, IIWY I'd get some form of ALDL / USB cable pre-made like the one phonedawgz sells. Avoid the headaches.
If you're going to do a DIY cable, you don't really need the ALDL plug. Just tap right into the wiring harness. The ALDL plug allows you to carry the cable to different vehicles. If you don't need that feature, wire it up yourself and just use the USB connector to plug and unplug it.

[supercoop]

thanks for sharing Robert,:thumbsup: i will have to order one an try it out.

[supercoop]

would you look this over an see if my thinking is correct.

with the Uber-easy DIY USB ALDL Cable posted: RobertISaar

for 8192 applications

connect the RXD and TXD pins together(solder would be the preferred method), then connect that circuit to the ALDL pin M, then connect the ground pin on the converter board to the ground pin in the ALDL connector (pin A).

for 160 baud applications

You do not have to have TX and RX tied together. all you need is the receive part of the circuit, since it doesn't communicate in both directions.
so just connect the RXD pin to the ALDL pin E , then connect the ground pin on the converter board to the ground pin in the ALDL connector (pin A).

an set the voltage jumper setting to 5V, 3.3V might work, but it might also cause more problems.

.In TunerPro RT, set it to 4800 baud and uncheck RS232 echo and it should started acquiring data,

looking at the picture of the board ,i see there is allready a jumper across the TXD an RXD pins.
these are the pins you would connect the M terminal to, for 8192
or remove jumper an connect the E terminal to, RXD for 160 , Correct?

[RobertISaar]

could leave the jumper there, it won't hurt anything, and you'll retain 8192 capability.

[belaw]

IIRC, the only thing the 7427 uses the ALDL pin B is for blinking out codes if connected directly to ground.

i'm not a 7427 expert though.

Does the 7427 reset/"zero" the IAC when pin B is grounded, or is that just the earlier ECM's?

[RobertISaar]

good question, one i can't answer though.

if someone had a bench setup, then it would be very easy to test, otherwise, you might need to monitor the IAC movement manually, preferably without the pintle shooting off.

[PJG1173]

neither my 8625 or 7427 zero out the IAC when jumpered. what I have done is to use jumper wires to the IAC to send the pintle to its seat. also setting the park position to 0 in the bin will put it to what it thinks is zero.

[phonedawgz]

You have to send a series of rotating/reversing electrical signals to move a stepper motor (IAC). You can't just jumper power to it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-3VnLadIbc&feature=related

[71-nova-lt1]

would this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-Module-USB-to-TTL-level-For-Arduino-/160898897647?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25765256ef

[phonedawgz]

The FT232RL works so it looks good, however the only way to find out if that board in particular works is to try it. The signaling needs to be 5v TTL, not 3.3. It isn't clear if the jumper selects the signaling voltage or an output voltage of the board.

[RobertISaar]

i don't see where the jumper is intended to be placed to put it into 5V mode... i see a lot of 3.3v references, but no 5v.

i would ASSUME it would work, but there's only one way to know for certain.

[phonedawgz]

I don't see the jumper either, I'm just going by the text.

[71-nova-lt1]

what about this? i see a jumper to switch to 5v and i see the tx and rx ports
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FT232RL-USB2-0-To-Serial-TTL-Level-5V-3-3V-Module-Converter-Adapter-For-Arduino-/270940119730?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f154a22b2

[RobertISaar]

that one SHOULD work, has the RxD and TxD pins required along with the 5V switch.

however, shipping times are pretty blah.

[71-nova-lt1]

right i know about shipping lol but its the quickest one i can find lol how fast did urs come

[RobertISaar]

~2 weeks or so every time i've ordered them.

[71-nova-lt1]

im guessing i should get the one u have since i know it works lol

[phonedawgz]

Are you talking about the one that I sell?

http://reddevilriver.com/aldl.html

It is ready to go, plug and play. It does include the A-B resistor if needed. You can order it with either the 12 pin or 16 pin connector already on it. It ships from Wisconsin. It is more expensive however.

[71-nova-lt1]

I wish lol cant afford it i mean the on from ebay

[phonedawgz]

Well then for sure get the one that has the clear 3v-5v jumper on it. It should work.

I to also sell on ebay - Seller name RedDevilRiver also Phonedawgz

btw, yes it costs more on ebay - to pay the ebay fees.

[71-nova-lt1]

ok so i got the chip how to i set it up so the computer reads it and so does tuner pro

[RobertISaar]

http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm

grab the driver from here. install is pretty quick and simple.

then setup the correct COM port in tunerpro, load the right ADX and you're pretty much ready to go.

[71-nova-lt1]

Wat can i use toflash it . I downloaded winflash but i cant find it

[71-nova-lt1]

I downloaded the driver set to com3. tested it said found but at the bottem it says hardware not foound

[RobertISaar]

hardware not found message is normal, that's referring to the autoprom, BURN1/2 and ostrich.

[71-nova-lt1]

O ok how can i program my ecm i have windows 8 but i download winflash but cant find The program in the C.A.T.S folder just says unstall winflash No appacation

[RobertISaar]

wouldn't know, i don't deal with anything CATS related.... someone else will have to answer that.

[71-nova-lt1]

Lol do u know any other programs i can use to flash a 95 lt1

[RobertISaar]

i use the Madtuner stuff for the 93-95 flash V6 PCMs, but it's also capable of dealing with the 94-95 LT1 PCM as well, just not sure if you can get that functionality seperately.

[71-nova-lt1]

So i can use madtuner on mine

[RobertISaar]

yes, though you may need to purchase the capability to use it with the V6 application as well, i don't remember if it's sold seperately.

i always had issues with the CATS software on anything newer than WinXP, so i didn't bother with it for too long.

[71-nova-lt1]

Is there any other program for free or trail i only need it once so i dont wanba pay

[EagleMark]

Right click on the TunerCat Winflash icon and choose compatibility mode, look towards bottom for Change for all users and click, use windows XP service pack 3, OK, exit and give it a try. Have cable plugged in and open Winflash and choose setup, comm port and should be there. If so you should be OK...

If not...

Uninstall TunerCat WinFlash and before you install right click, compatibilty mode and Windows XP service pack 3. After install you may have to do the same for the WinFlash Icon again.

You have to pay the $20 for registration or it won't work...

[71-nova-lt1]

thx you i for got about running it in xp mode. it works.

[71-nova-lt1]

how can i get this chip to read data for tuning

[RobertISaar]

what all have you done so far?

[EagleMark]

Laptop and cable with TunerPro and the ADX file. Start engine and record data, save when done. Now since your LT1 is a conversion the ADX file may not connect, it may need some things taken out. Give it a shot, start a thread and I'll help you adjust the ADX if it needs it.

[DownUnder]

with the one i posted:

connect the RXD and TXD pins together(solder would be my method), then connect that circuit to the ALDL pin M, then connect the ground pin on the converter to the ground pin in the ALDL connector (pin A).

it's that simple.

Just to confirm the unbelievable simplicity to making this aldl cable, Hopefully a small image with red circles will help anyone else with the same question!
3237
Solder the Rxd and Txd together, solder single wire from that to communication pin on Diagnostic plug.
Then solder wire from Gnd to ground pin on plug.
And obviously keep the bridge over VCC and 5V or solder together if intending to keep it like that.
That about cover it for 8192 baud communication?

Still cant believe aldl cable can be made for ~$20!. Paid $80 for my last one!

[RobertISaar]

yeah, unless you need the 10K resistor for the applications that need them. in which case, you will need to be able to switch that circuit through the resistor to ground and off again.

[phonedawgz]

You still need to add the ALDL connector itself and a housing if you wish to compare the price to a purchased cable.

Otherwise you might as well compare the price of the FT232RL chip to the cable. The chip itself btw costs about $3.50

[DownUnder]

You still need to add the ALDL connector itself and a housing if you wish to compare the price to a purchased cable.

Otherwise you might as well compare the price of the FT232RL chip to the cable. The chip itself btw costs about $3.50

Cheers for the quick response guys.
I thought the 10K ohm resistor was for 160buad ect when looking at VR,VS commys (hopefully I havent missed read there!)
Or are there particular modules that require the 10K resistor to communicate properly/obtain chatter?

I will be mainly using the cable for radios,clusters and BCM's since my application reads/writes to these modules for various aspects eg BCM security number, change cluster v6->V8 ect.

As for the Connector and cable, as RobertISaar said, if you have a look around, can find the 16pin connector and cable together for under ~$8 shipped. Since im buying 8+ the price drops to ~$5 shipped. Obviously buying more costs more but Im hoping to make a few of the cables as "test" cables. Both components should rock up roughly the same time since there coming from the same place.

[EagleMark]

10K is rarely needed to start data flow on 160 Baud, on most it will put ECM in ALDL mode which really messes up data. I've never seen another module on a 160 Baud?

I'd be intrested in your application for re-writing other modules? I'm trying to disable magnetic shock feedback in a 2001 Silverado that is getting some suspension work and it has created a CEL which is not in the PCM.

[DownUnder]

10K is rarely needed to start data flow on 160 Baud, on most it will put ECM in ALDL mode which really messes up data. I've never seen another module on a 160 Baud?

I'd be intrested in your application for re-writing other modules? I'm trying to disable magnetic shock feedback in a 2001 Silverado that is getting some suspension work and it has created a CEL which is not in the PCM.

Program does have a ALDL chatter/listener which allows listening to a cars chatter over communication line, also has a "frame count" feature which counts the amount of times each frame is sent. Makes it easy as to see what happens when door unlocks/locks, aircon on, boot open ect ect.

Will let yous know how the aldl cable turns out!

[shadowmaster63]

What chance that the scheme will work with my Mitsubishi Eclipse G1 D22A FWD 92 ?

[RobertISaar]

what kind of communication protocall does it use?

[shadowmaster63]

Must be ALDL...

[RobertISaar]

hmm.... an ADX seems to exist and i found this in a search:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/424006-easy-way-make-1g-usb-datalogging-cable.html

it looks like the DSM ECMs use a real RS232 protocall, not TTL/UART like GM?

[phonedawgz]

It seems odd that they would use RS232 voltages and then tie them together in one wire, however that is quite similar to what GM did. It would be interesting to see if a standard FT232RL works, however if it is known that the RS232 voltages work, why chance it?

[RobertISaar]

i never said it made sense. :laugh:

but that is what it looks like to me.

before stumbling across using the FT232R as a USB to UART converter, i did use some FT232R based USB to RS232 adapters, they worked quite well at 8192 baud, but required a more complex circuit with the GM applications(used a MAX232, so coming from the PCM: UART to RS232 to USB conversion). with the mitsubishi system, i would probably go that route, since all you would need is the USB-RS232 converter, a really common diode and a 10K resistor and it's ready to go unless you wanted to integrate a DB9 port or something like it.

there are PLENTY of cheap FT232R based USB-RS232 converters to be found pretty much anywhere.

[shadowmaster63]

There is a 100% working schemes but for RS232.My task is to find a USB to RS232 that will work.

http://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/

(http://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/)4229


(http://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/)

[RobertISaar]

USB to RS232 is pretty easy. off-hand, i can tell you that the Parallax 28030/28031 is what i was using for that very purpose. there are probably cheaper solutions as well.

[Z28]

Just ordered a FT232RL from ebay for $11.94 shipped from California.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FTDI-FT232RL-Type-B-USB-to-Serial-adapter-module-USB-To-RS232-for-Arduino-/181088667903? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/FTDI-FT232RL-Type-B-USB-to-Serial-adapter-module-USB-To-RS232-for-Arduino-/181088667903?) (This one will work.... right?)

I was about to go with the parallax and max route but thankfully I found this thread.

[RobertISaar]

the parallax/MAX232 route works perfectly..... but is overcomplex. the normal USB to UART/TTL also works perfectly, is MUCH less complex and is even cheaper too. hard to argude with that combination.

that converter looks fine, even has all 3 pins you'll need right next to each other.

[MYLTWON]

Where is there a cheap place to buy aldl pigtails? I cant find them anywhere.

[RobertISaar]

http://dx.com/p/12-pin-to-16-pin-obd2-diagnostic-cable-for-general-motors-10cm-115651

that's what i use.... kind of stubby, but it works.

[phonedawgz]

Your best bet is here - http://aldlcable.com/sc/details.asp?item=daewoo

That way you know you have all the conductors that are needed. A lot of the OBD1 junk out there don't have wires on all the pins that are normally used.

[RobertISaar]

the one i linked to has all 12 pins connected with seperate circuits.

[Playtoy_18]

Just to confirm the unbelievable simplicity to making this aldl cable, Hopefully a small image with red circles will help anyone else with the same question!


Solder the Rxd and Txd together, solder single wire from that to communication pin on Diagnostic plug.
Then solder wire from Gnd to ground pin on plug.
And obviously keep the bridge over VCC and 5V or solder together if intending to keep it like that.
That about cover it for 8192 baud communication?


Still cant believe aldl cable can be made for ~$20!. Paid $80 for my last one!

Awesome post,thanks for the pic.

I think I might have what's needed onhand.
I needed a usb/ttl convertor for a subaru cable for a buddy and happened to order 3 since I figured they might come in handy (and they were like $3).
I also have an old OTC mindreader scantool that no longer likes to read OBDI.
So i'm gonna put this thing together and see if I can get it to talk to my 91 caprice.
If so,that means I don't need to buy one and can throw money at a burner.
mucho appreciado muchacho's.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/edwinleahy/d7c35a78ee3511bb5757d3c19c040653_zps23003175.jpg

[Playtoy_18]

Okay,got as far as tinning all the connections to solder together and wanted to clarify something.
I still need to make the circuit using the transistor and resistors and then the tx/rx/grd goes to the usb/ttl adapter right?

I'm converting from ecm to serial with the transistor circuit,and the adaptor is converting from serial to usb correct?

I'm assuming the cable does not have that already built in,I have no idea how the otc talks to the ecm.

[RobertISaar]

depends on your adapter. if it is TTL to USB converter, then no external components are needed.

what kind of chip is doing the work? with odd baud rates, only the FT232 chips seem to work reliably.

[Playtoy_18]

I'm guessing PL2303HX ?


Description:
This PL2303HX USB to TTL converter module is a must for simple serial communication and allows you to upgrade the firmware of your router or ADSL modem.


Features:
Easy serial communication
Upgrade your router or ADSL modem's firmware
Simplify connections: RX to TX or TX to PX of an MCU. Then connect your GND, without the need for MAX232
GPS serial communication
Use as a serial debugging tool for the hyperterminal
Upgrade your hard disk's firmware
Upgrade various satellite receivers


Note:The color of Dupont Wire is random when we dispatch it.


Package includes:
1 x USB to TTL Module
1 x Dupont Wire


Never mind,I think it says right in the description.
I had gathered that the transistor/resistor circuit was what everyone was calling max232?

[RobertISaar]

with a 160 baud application, it might work, but i can't really guarantee it, i know the 2303 chip doesn't like 8192 baud at all.

MAX232 is an IC to help convert signals to and from RS232 specification.

[Playtoy_18]

A 7747 is 160 baud right?
That is what I need it for right now to get me by till one of your cables are ready

[phonedawgz]

Yes 1227747 = 160 baud

[fas000]

HI. Great Thread. Is it possible to do anything with this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380599351265?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
or this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300771847336?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

[RobertISaar]

the second would probably be able to be used after some workarounds(since it uses the FT232RL), but i really don't know bluetooth that well.

the first, i can't get a clear image of the ICs used, but if it's not a FT232R, don't expect it to work at GM OBD1 speeds.

[Playtoy_18]

So mine would be tx/rx tied to pin E for data,ground to ground/pin A and tie VcC/5V together on the convertor then right?
Then load up tunerpro and try to find a driver to work?

seems too simple,i'm forgetting something.
hope it works,if not need to order a cable from somewhere quick.

can someone smarter confirm?

[phonedawgz]

Start with not connecting VCC to 5v. Normally that isn't needed, but you are using a different board so idk. If you have no lights at all when you are plugged into the USB only then do it, but if you get lights, then it is not needed.

You might need the 10K resistor between A - B to activate this output of the ECM.

[EagleMark]

1227747 = No 10k...

[GaryDoug]

The FT232RL will only work if the TXD and RXD pins are inverted, since standard RS232 is already inverted from TTL. Fortunately FTDI included that fix in their programming utility. It's a no-brainer to download the free "FT_Prog" utility and set the TXD and RXD pins to "Inverted" status. http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Utilities.htm#FT_Prog
That brings the polarity back in sync with the TTL versions. You can't directly tie the two pins together however. See this link for the wiring: http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums/topic/457761-make-an-obd1-cable-for-under-20/page__pid__866681#entry866681
(http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums/topic/457761-make-an-obd1-cable-for-under-20/page__pid__866681#entry866681)

[RobertISaar]

i've built probably 30 cables without ever needing to do so? the first half used a FT232R and another converter IC to change TTL to RS232 to USB. this was before i knew better and just found TTL to USB via a FT232R.

[GaryDoug]

The "another converter" flipped the polarity. Most involve the use of an RS232 IC or a couple of NPN transistors. The TTL-to-USB does not invert the signals to make it RS232 compatible. When I placed the FT232RL alone into use, both signals were upside down, giving complimentary data. Reprogramming fixed that. You may have used a special driver that took care of the inversion already. I have noticed that some companies supply the adapters with their own driver and their adapters will NOT work with the standard drivers from FTDI without the inversion.

[RobertISaar]

i've always used and advocated using the standard drivers from ftdichip.com with no issue. it's possible that the boards i was buying were already running the modified program to account for this.

[GaryDoug]

If you ever want to give that utility a try, the changes will not take effect until the unit is unplugged from the pc and plugged in again (rebooted). It seems that the internal hardware gets set at power-up time and not at program time.

[Achilles]

Will this one work. http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=1173

[phonedawgz]

Yes it should

[RobertISaar]

looks like it uses the FT232BL, which is essentially an older version of the FT232RL. other than the circuit on the PCB required to use it being more complex, i don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.


The FT232R is the latest device to be added to FTDI’s range of USB UART interface
Integrated Circuit Devices. The FT232R is a USB to serial UART interface with
optional clock generator output, and the new FTDIChip-ID™ security dongle
feature. In addition, asynchronous and synchronous bit bang interface modes are
available. USB to serial designs using the FT232R have been further simplified
by fully integrating the external EEPROM, clock circuit and USB resistors onto
the device.
The FT232R adds two new functions compared with its predecessors, effectively
making it a "3-in-1" chip for some application areas. The internally generated
clock (6MHz, 12MHz, 24MHz, and 48MHz) can be brought out of the device and used
to drive a microcontroller or external logic. A unique number (the FTDIChip-ID™)
is burnt into the device during manufacture and is readable over USB, thus
forming the basis of a security dongle which can be used to protect customer
application software from being copied.



the features added into the R version aren't really going to effect the end-user of an ALDL cable.

[sherlock9c1]

Can one of you doublecheck my settings? I just completed a benchtop programming setup for '94-95 LT1s and I want to make sure I have all of the driver settings correct. I've done a successful datalog and two successful reads and the files appear identical. Before I try to write, can you verify the settings below are correct:
Bits per second: 9600 (8192 is not a selectable option).
Data bits: 8
Parity: None
Stop bits: 1
Flow Control: None

[RobertISaar]

if you're having good reads(datastream or BINs), then writes should be just fine as well. those look like the default values, which are correct for this application.

[sherlock9c1]

Thank you Robert - I had success with multiple writes and reads. No more risk! I appreciate all of the work that went into this!

[roby]

What is the best way to mount the board in a project box and which cable restraints are most rugged?

[RobertISaar]

i friction-fit everything. the ALDL end, a 13/64 drill in the right place will clamp it in place nicely without risking the integrity of any of the wires. on the USB side... well, that will depend on the exact cable you're using and how you want it to be. i notch it out using a dremel.

i really need to get a small CNC setup, would cut down assembly time to ~20 minutes.

[GaryDoug]

I use this one, case included. Construction time: about 5 minutes total for 12-pin, about 15 minutes total for 16-pin version.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6pin-FTDI-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-adapter-module-USB-TO-TTL-RS232-Arduino-Cable-/400356015296?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d3713fcc0

[roby]

So does the board just float inside the box on the cables? The female usb socket is flush to the edge of the board, how do you stabilize or secure it to the box to allow cable install and removal?

[roby]

Maybe I'm assuming a box larger than just bigger than the board. What are the dimensions of the box you recommend, or a source and part number.

[RobertISaar]

3" X 2" X 1" box. you can find them at radioshack.

the way i build them, the squared off section of the male USB connector that mates to the FT232 board is rubber that compresses nicely. cut a hole slightly smaller than that squared section, press it in and it won't come out without taking the top off and pushing it back upwards.

[roby]

Ah, so USB cable is permanently attached, and both cables are sandwiched by the lid in cut outs, now it makes sense. Thank you

[RobertISaar]

more or less. 4 screws and one could swap out the cable with another should it become damaged.

[GaryDoug]

5131

You guys should know that you don't really have to fool with putting an adapter into a box or fitting the connectors to it. This FT232RL-based one in the photo is available for about $8-9 shipped. All you have to do is cut off the small 6-pin connector and the wires leaving only the white, green and black ones. Then splice them to your 12-pin/16-pin connector or pigtail. The 12-pin pigtail can be easily gotten for about $5-6 in the form of a 12-pin to 16-pin adapter (cut off the 16-pin one and throw it away). Splice the white and green to the brown (pin M) wire and splice the black ones together. Tape it up or use shrink tubing and you are done. This adapter has a translucent case so you can see the red and green lights (TX and RX).

[RobertISaar]

i don't like the versions that have all of the circuit right at the USB connector.... my aldlcables.com version was like that, only lasted between 12 and 18 months before it completely failed. something up there failed and obviously couldn't be repaired and not look like a total hackjob.

the enclosure also allows for a nice place to mount the switch for the 10K resistor and relieves strain on the solder joints.

[GaryDoug]

Sorry, I'm only an EE with 45 years experience with this kind of stuff. Won't bother you again.

[RobertISaar]

i never said you were wrong, just that i have my preferences.

[EagleMark]

Sorry, I'm only an EE with 45 years experience with this kind of stuff. Won't bother you again.You have to understand we discuss and bounce ideas and use everyone's expertise. One thing we never do is offend anyone. So you took this wrong.

We also don't allow bad attitudes. So lose it or just don't come back.

[Six_Shooter]

I just tested this adapter:

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/718

It's part of my Project Lab III kit (school), so I figured I'd give it a try in Tuner Pro.

At first I forgot about shorting the TX and RX pins, but after using an alligator clip positioned carefully, it passed the test.

I then connected it to an ECM on my test bench ('7730 running a stock ARUT MEMCAL $A1), connected as quickly as my Moates cable.

Just thought I'd pass it along.

[FSJ Guy]

I tried a similar one and it worked while the truck was key on, engine off. Once I turned it on, it would only stay connected for about 2-4 seconds and then it lost connection. I don't remember which voltage version I used.

What voltage are you running yours at?
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/718

[Six_Shooter]

Currently I have left it at the as shipped 3.3V setting.

I'm going to make a better test rig that I can plug into a vehicle to do more testing. I need to make sure that it works for my school project though, since I need it to program my Dragonfly board...

[RobertISaar]

this may sound odd, but i don't bother connecting VCCIO to either the 5V or 3.3V settings..... seems to be unnnecessary for these applications.

[Six_Shooter]

It is, because it's not shared with the vehicle.

[freestyle5150]

NOOB here \ first post..... I read all 11 pages, but just want to confirm........ this is the proven board:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-Module-USB-to-TTL-level-USB-Cable-dupont-248-/260917151841?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbfdf c861 (http://go.redirectingat.com/?id=22497X812388&site=gearhead-efi.com&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FArduino-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-Module-USB-to-TTL-level-USB-Cable-dupont-248-%2F260917151841%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3 Ditem3cbfdfc861&xguid=382f9506cf2e8a5de319f98ccb1b41a6&xcreo=0&sref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gearhead-efi.com%2FFuel-Injection%2Fshowthread.php%3F719-Uber-easy-DIY-USB-ALDL-Cable&pref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gearhead-efi.com%2FFuel-Injection%2Fshowthread.php%3F719-Uber-easy-DIY-USB-ALDL-Cable%2Fpage11)
also, will this allow me to program on board computer to improve performance \ gain HP?
I think what you guys are doing is awesome...... any advice would be greatly appreciated.
94 impala ss LT1

[RobertISaar]

that is the version i was using for quite some time, i'm now using a smaller board for better/smaller packaging, but there were certainly no problems with them.

[freestyle5150]

that is the version i was using for quite some time, i'm now using a smaller board for better/smaller packaging, but there were certainly no problems with them.

are you able to share what you're using now? is it cheaper , more expensive? easier to configure?

[RobertISaar]

slightly cheaper, but the main advantage is size.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-FT232RL-USB-To-Serial-Adapter-Module-USB-TO-232-For-Arduino-Download-Cable-/200962160734?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eca47385e

that style. as you can see, they're not much larger than the FT232RL itself.

i've been intermittently receiving units that require older drivers to work though, for whatever reason that may be caused by. :rolleye:

[freestyle5150]

thank you , greatly appreciated.

[freestyle5150]

ok, so i've pulled the trigger and bought
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-FT232RL-USB-To-Serial-Adapter-Module-USB-TO-232-For-Arduino-Download-Cable-/200962160734?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eca47385e&afsrc=1

now it's the waiting game....... guess i'll read over the previous 12 pages again and try to figure out which wires go where

[buddrow]

Robert, have u had a chance to test this setup on the '7747 ecm's yet?

[RobertISaar]

personally, no, since i haven't touched anything 160 baud in years.

i want to say at least a few people have been using them with 7747s/similar with no problems though.

[buddrow]

Robert, is this the same item u found on ebay? http://www.frys.com/product/6997547#detailed

[RobertISaar]

looks similar enough. i don't see another IC on-board to convert it to RS232 specs or any other voltage level, so it would probably be a safe bet.

[buddrow]

Ok thanks for the input. Price is cheap enough so Im gonna try it and see. Ill update when i get it connected...hopefully ;)

[freestyle5150]

My unit has finally arrived,
I just reviewed the Cable Installation to TunerPro RT thread, so my com ports are configured correctly in device manager \ TunerPro……. I am also running the correct driver (2.08.14)
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?1557-Cable-Installation-to-TunerPro-RTNow I’m ready to make my cable, just want to verify what wires im using.
The Rx and the Tx wires connect together which are then plugged into the M pin on the ODB1 socket, then ground to ground (pin A)?

[RobertISaar]

exactly like that for MOST 8192 baud applications will be correct. some will need a switched 10K resistor going from A to B pin, and 160 baud will require connecting the Tx/Rx/ALDL M circuit to the ALDL E circuit, at that point, you're ready to take on everything that uses the 12 pin connector.

[freestyle5150]

exactly like that for MOST 8192 baud applications will be correct. some will need a switched 10K resistor going from A to B pin, and 160 baud will require connecting the Tx/Rx/ALDL M circuit to the ALDL E circuit, at that point, you're ready to take on everything that uses the 12 pin connector.

Thanks for the quick reply....... so I am running 1994 impala ss which is a 8192 baud application...correct? I don't need to worry about the 160 config...right? Regarding the 10K resistor going from A to B pin, that is for TPI w /MAF..... does that apply to me?

[RobertISaar]

correct.

assuming you never need them, you won't need to impliment them. i didn't on my personal cable since the chance of me playing with anything that wasn't an 8192 setup and non 86-89 TPI at that were pretty slim.

[freestyle5150]

correct.

assuming you never need them, you won't need to impliment them. i didn't on my personal cable since the chance of me playing with anything that wasn't an 8192 setup and non 86-89 TPI at that were pretty slim.

awesome, thanks! one last question for today, while configuring my com ports in tunerPro I ran the "test for vaild interface using setting" test. The test failed with a "cable not found or functioning @ 8192 baud" error. Is that to be expected ? I had the FT232RL unit hooked up via USB to the computer, but no cables hooked up to the FT232rl unit.

[RobertISaar]

were the Rx and Tx lines connected yet? if not, that will happen.

[freestyle5150]

were the Rx and Tx lines connected yet? if not, that will happen.

Tx and Rx were not hooked up yet..... Thanks again for all your help. I will post my results once I'm done.

[freestyle5150]

I connected Tx & Rx wires together, Cable found and functioning. :thumbsup:

[RobertISaar]

should be good to go then.

[wasd]

will this cabel work with 2001 CHEVY SILVERADO 1500 5.3L ENGINE pcm 411
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-OBD1-Scanner-Cable-Software-USB-to-16-pin-ALDL-direct-GM-OBDI-/110845432864?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19cee71420&vxp=mtr

[RobertISaar]

no. as stated quite a few times in the auction page, it is meant for OBD1 vehicles with an OBD2 connector. this only happened with certain 94-95 models.

[buddrow]

Ok guys. Finally got a chance to play with the ft232 adapter. Test for valid interface=cable found and working. click on connect says connecting then a second or two later changes to no connected. Never says connected also shows no data (i know the two go hand in hand) ;) working on a '7747 ecm using driver version 2.08.28 any ideas? Thank you in advance.

[RobertISaar]

i'm not a definitive source on anything 160 baud related... but you have a correct, known to work ADX selected?

also, if you have it accessible, is the Rx LED lighting up as if the ECM is sending data?

[buddrow]

Using adx v5.2 one of Marks. No, when i plug the cable into the usb port on my laptop all lights go off, otherwise with adapter hooked to aldl pins E and A both red & green lights flicker with the key on run. Odd thing in TP is when chcking interface i found that even with the cable unplugged it show cable found and functioning. Now that is on comm 4 if i switch to comm 5 or 6 it doesnt detect hardware. Something is t right here.

[RobertISaar]

if the cable is detected even when unplugged from the computer, the wrong port is being used. my laptop does that with COM3, it is essentially a ghost port.

[buddrow]

Also, I am using the osepp ft232 adapter and have the tx and rx pins soldered together if that makes a difference.

[buddrow]

Ok so i gotta find out which comm my adapter is using then? Win xp yeah

[RobertISaar]

i don't remember exact steps on XP anymore, but you'll need to get into the device manager and look in the ports section. when you plug the cable in, a new serial/COM port should show up, that would be the cable.

i want to say, open start menu, right-click on "my computer", properties, then one tab shows the option to get into it.

[buddrow]

Got it workin! After changing from "use plug in" to autoprom and back to use plugin, switch to comm5 and im logging data. Bout time lol. Thanks Robert for your input. Have a great day. Now i can start tuning this thing.

[RobertISaar]

strange..... i've never seen that process be required before. i'm not complaining, if it works.

[buddrow]

Im not sure what happened either just glad it works lol

[Woods]

Joined the forum just so I could say thank you Robert.
Built my ALDL OBD1 Cable for a grand total of $5.14.
Used the FT232RL USB To Serial Adapter you said you have been using recently
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200962160734
along with a USB Male to Mini USB 5 Pin Adapter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221320239578
Just used some old speaker wire with the ends tinned to make the connection to the ALDL port, nothing fancy.
Plugged the FT232RL into the laptop and Windows XP found the drivers and new hardware automatically,no problems. After a fair amount of reading about tunerpro, I am up and Data-logging my 94 Chevy PU.
Thank you very much for the information, always wanted to datalog, but had a hard time forking out the $ for a cable.
Let the fun begin. :rockon:

[RobertISaar]

i've done the soldered end route a few times before.... it works, but when you can, spend the ~$9 or so on a 12-pin end and life gets so much easier. then, depending on how rough you are on the wires, i would enclose the soldered connections and for less than $20, you have a pretty solid product on your hands. the time to get it all looking (relatively) nice and having tight connections is all i'm really charging for when i build them.

[Woods]

Your advice is well taken
For me Robert, I am happy right now. Been thinking of updating to an EBL Flash, or buying a Moates APU1' AutoProm Package. Both would have communication cables included.
Your info has let me build an inexpensive cable to get a picture of how my engine is performing now, and,or trouble shoot issues.
Many thanks to you.

update: made a nice little enclosure for the FT232RL out of a plastic box that blade fuses come in.

[rokcrawlin85]

Just wanted to check in before i get too excited about this. I know you guys have to be tired of answering a few of us who just can't grasp everything. Anyway, sorry ahead of time, Im using the 8747 ecm and the Heavy Duty adx file provided through this site, I have no idea if it will truly work since my aldlcable.com cable stopped working (just like Robert's) before i got a chance to test out TP. Im thinking to make a nice setup use the cable side of the "bad" aldl cable and just chop off and trash the USB port section and solder the needed wires to the correct pins on this....http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-Module-USB-to-TTL-level-USB-Cable-dupont-248-/260917151841?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbfdfc861&afsrc=1. Then hard mounting the adapter in the vehicle with easy access to the USB square plug and call it good.... If i've followed these 14 pages correctly, short the rxd & txd pins together then connect to the corresponding pin wire of my plug (pin A on aldl plug) then grounding pin of the adapter to pin B (aldl plug) wire? That is all correct? The baud rate and resistor talk are where i start to get lost and confused.....

[RobertISaar]

sounds like you have the right idea. if you're hard-mounting it, the 12 pin ALDL end won't need to be used, but that is your call.

i'm not familiar with the 8747, is it one that needs the 10K resistor to start the datastream? if so, then account for that in your design and you'll be set.

[rokcrawlin85]

From everything i've been able to find on here, is that it is nearly identical to the 7747. Just meant for the HD vehicles like 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. I think i can even get away with running the 7747 adx file for data logging. Thank you for the response and answering another one that is slowly gasping this stuff!

[RobertISaar]

i figured it would be a C3.

i don't THINK the 10K is needed, but perhaps do a trial run before cutting stuff up?

i noticed in your first post: you'll want to connect the RxD/TxD to pin E. ground should go to pin A. if the 10K is needed, it will go between pin B and pin A on the connector, with some type of switch to turn it on and off.

[EagleMark]

From everything i've been able to find on here, is that it is nearly identical to the 7747. Just meant for the HD vehicles like 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. I think i can even get away with running the 7747 adx file for data logging. Thank you for the response and answering another one that is slowly gasping this stuff!

$4f

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?521-1228747-ECM-Information-4F

[rokcrawlin85]

which would be as simple as adding a toggle switch with the resistor in line between A & B wires....

On a side note.... thank you guys so much for all the knowledge and incite on this site!!! I've learned so much from just this site alone. Nice to find a site where people are wanting to help out and not just stick to themselves and not help us "under educated people". So thank you all!!!

Mark, that is the link i used to find the HD adx file for data logging. Thanks for putting that all together in one easy to find spot. now to just order everything and get it put together and see if it works as described.

[rokcrawlin85]

Ok so I have a question regarding setting this up to be able to read both 160 and 8192 baud rates. Is it possible or am I only able to set it up one way or another? I need the 180 baud rate but thought it would be nice to allow for both rates

[RobertISaar]

the same hardware works with both 160 and 8192 baud data rates. you'll just need to connect the USb converter's RxD and TxD pins to both the E and M pins.

[rokcrawlin85]

That's what I was hoping for. I was just in doubt if I hooked both wires up to the rxd and txd pins if they both could attempt to use the same signal at the same time? Not sure if that's even possible

[RobertISaar]

perfectly acceptable situation. most vehicles only had E or M. the vehicles that can communicate at both(86-89 TPI V8s and not much else) have both pins present, so technically, either could be used, but it won't matter.

[rokcrawlin85]

ok, so i have hooked up the cable as we've discussed, and when i connect it to the laptop it pops up with the typical hardware found blah blah blah, then after about 10 seconds it says the devise is not recognized by windows....
when its first connected the rx and tx leds flash and then the led in the center stays lit while the rx and tx leds stay off.... have i done something wrong here?

[Six_Shooter]

You mean the power LED? The power LED should be on when ever there is power connected to the board.

Have you manually installed the FTDI drivers? Windows won't find the drivers for FTDI devices.

[rokcrawlin85]

yes the power led. the receive and transmit leds flash twice then stay off. no i have not installed drivers :rolleye: and im none too computer savvy.... can i get a walk through? maybe?

[RobertISaar]

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?1557-Cable-Installation-to-TunerPro-RT

[rokcrawlin85]

I follow those steps and i get to "updating driver" and my only options for drivers are "Communications port", im not given the 2.08.14 option as a driver :confused:

[buddrow]

You will need to load a suitable driver for the usb chip. I used the file found in this link http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm.

Now with that said depending on the date of manufacture of your chip and your operating system version you may have to manually set up the device on your computer. Also in TunerPro you will have to initialize the device by selecting the appropriate com port.
open tunerpro, click tools tab, click preferences. Click the Data Acq./Emulation tab, under the Data Acquisition & Logging info it should see "use plug-in", Tunerpro data..., click on Configure Plug-in Component. Click test for valid interface....

At this point when u click on "test..." It will respond with either cable not found or not functioning. You must have the usb adapter connected to the laptop and the vehicle ALDL port for any of this to work.

I have found even though the cable test did not find my cable, it will still connect to the ecm and allow data. This is why you need everything hooked up so that you can test the "connect" function of the acquisition mode. As long as the "DA:Connected" indicator is blue and not yellow you should be transferring data.

Hope this helps

Buddrow

[rokcrawlin85]

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?1557-Cable-Installation-to-TunerPro-RT

Followed this setup and I have a few questions,
1st- when i setup the tunerpro side of the aldl connection, im only given the option for comm 4, is this normal? Can i only use comm 4 and therefore setup the cable in devise manager to be comm 4? But when i verify it in the acquisition setup, it is not found or connected?
2nd- is it a big deal or not that tunerpro, when choosing acquire data, that it is "not connected" in tunerpro?

Ok just tried again right after plugging in the cable to the computer and it came up good when doing the test for valid interface, but then tried again after a couple miniutes and back to failed...?

[RobertISaar]

when in TP, if com4 is the only option showing up when the cable is plugged in(and driver setup), then that should be the COM port being created by the cable.

when doing the tests, is this with the cable plugged into the computer, but not the vehicle? because the test SHOULD fail while connected to a vehicle, but should pass when disconnected from the vehicle. it isn't always that cut and dry though, cables that fail that test can work flawlessly during actual scanning.

[rokcrawlin85]

The failed test is with the cable connected to the PC but NOT connected the the vehicle. The short time it clears the test on initial plug in is very odd to me.... could this be a driver issue? I had a hella time getting the drivers installed, ended up having to use the ftdi site for drivers which may cause issues from what I've been reading

[RobertISaar]

possibility on driver issues. i would be running the versions specified in Mark's thread before anything else.

[rokcrawlin85]

Just thought i'd update with what ended up happening, removed all the previous drivers installed by the fdci site. Loaded the driver provided through the link here https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2242747/CDM%202.08.14.zip (for some reason my caveman era laptop didn't like to load it before) now my cable seems to be working and connecting to TP just fine. Next step is to see if it will actually receive info from the ECM when i finally get time to hook up to that. Thank you all for your help

On a side note: have you had issues with the usb cable provided with the chip converter and the converter making proper connection? I noticed when i would play with the plug the devise manager would read "usb serial converter" then switch to "unknown devise" by just moving the plug (at the converter) then switch back again??? :confused:

[RobertISaar]

mine all seem fine, but i tend to touch up the solder joints when i'm dealing with the RxD/TxD and ground connections if they look in any way questionable.

[srgould41]

Hello all you Guru's. I just finished swapping a TBI onto my engine and it will need some tuning. I am going to start with data logging. I am running a '7747 ECU. I want to build the cable, but I am seeing conflicting statements in the thread.

I need to buy the "Arduino FT232RL USB to Serial Module USB to TTL level + USB Cable + dupont #248".

My ECU is a 160 baud unit. To interface with it do I need to connect the tx/rx ports or not? I have seen both talked about in this thread. Do I need the 10k resister or not? Again both opinions are in this thread.

Thanks,

Steve

[RobertISaar]

with a 160 baud only unit, Tx isn't used, so you'll only need Rx connected.

with a 7747, i don't think the 10K is necessary, but i'm not 100% on that.

[srgould41]

Thank you for the reply. Would linking the Tx to Rx cause issues with this ECU? So if I want to be able to connect to other ECU's I would need both joined. Would it be better to do this up front?



with a 160 baud only unit, Tx isn't used, so you'll only need Rx connected.

with a 7747, i don't think the 10K is necessary, but i'm not 100% on that.

[RobertISaar]

connecting them is no problem for the ECM. it takes 3 seconds with a soldering iron, so i would recommend it.

[srgould41]

Thank you. I have the box on order. Looks like it will take a couple weeks to arrive.

Steve


connecting them is no problem for the ECM. it takes 3 seconds with a soldering iron, so i would recommend it.

[srgould41]

Ignore this. I selected to log data and it connected right up even though the test failed. I saw good looking data. Now to do some logging.

---

I am stuck. I cannot get Tuner Pro to find the cable. It is searching at 8192baud. That isn't even an option on the port settings. Tuner Pro only sees COM2 so that is what I set the device to. Currently the port is set to 9600 baud. The device has RXD and TXD ports that were jumpered when it arrived. I assume the RXD port is what I want? I used the 2.8.14 drivers specified on page 15. No change.

Suggestions?

[shimniok]

Remember me from 2 years ago? :D I'm back to messing with DIY ALDL setup on my 7747, wanted to share updates. Hope it's not old news. Using Sparkfun FTDI Basic Breakout 5V with an emitter-follower transistor as a signal buffer. For whatever reason I could not get a data stream when it was running unless I had the buffer. So far so good, except some data errors after waking the laptop and starting the Jeep. I'll dig into that and do more testing this week as I fine tune the Jeep for emissions using my own Ostrich 2.0 and Burn2 (was using AutoProm in 2012).

When I'm convinced I have it working reliably I'll design a small board for myself with FTDI chip, USB connector, transistor(s), filtering caps, whatever else. I could make extras if anyone is interested. I don't have anything to test the 8192 stuff on, but could try to build it to accommodate that too.

[joegreen]

is thier a cheap simple ft232rl that i can use with my 1227747 ecu that ships from the us instead of from china with their crazy shipping times?

[RobertISaar]

i believe you can set ebay to remove all results outside of a chosen area. beyond that, not much else, almost everything is china based.

[joegreen]

I believe this should work? http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=231227363471&alt=web

[shimniok]

Just a quick update. I have not yet resolved the problems with the Sparkfun FT232RL but I'm still working on it. I'll let you know what I come up with.

What happens is that the USB adapter appears to stop receiving data. I'm not sure if this is a problem with the FT232RL or the host computer or what, exactly. I do know that the RX light on the device stops blinking, but that can be caused by a variety of things. I'll have to take an oscilloscope along next time and investigate after the problem occurs, I guess.

Unplugging the device from USB and reinserting it, disconnecting and reconnecting does seem to work most of the time. I've updated the drivers to the 2/2014 version to no avail.

I somewhat suspect a ground problem or some electrical noise/interference/overvoltage or something along those lines. The adapter is getting power from the USB device. The signal is coming in from the ECM. The USB adapter is grounded to the ECM box. I should probably explore how that's grounded.

[RobertISaar]

I believe this should work? http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=231227363471&alt=web

looks fine.


Just a quick update. I have not yet resolved the problems with the Sparkfun FT232RL but I'm still working on it. I'll let you know what I come up with.

What happens is that the USB adapter appears to stop receiving data. I'm not sure if this is a problem with the FT232RL or the host computer or what, exactly. I do know that the RX light on the device stops blinking, but that can be caused by a variety of things. I'll have to take an oscilloscope along next time and investigate after the problem occurs, I guess.

Unplugging the device from USB and reinserting it, disconnecting and reconnecting does seem to work most of the time. I've updated the drivers to the 2/2014 version to no avail.

I somewhat suspect a ground problem or some electrical noise/interference/overvoltage or something along those lines. The adapter is getting power from the USB device. The signal is coming in from the ECM. The USB adapter is grounded to the ECM box. I should probably explore how that's grounded.

no other laptop to test with to rule that out? the ECM side of datalogging is pretty solid on a 7747, so i would assume adapter or laptop.

[steveo]

i just chopped out my aldl port and replaced with one of these

I love it. . even has blinky lights! I love blinky lights

thanks for the tip Robert

[RobertISaar]

i'm considering doing the same for all of my cars..... cost ~$4(and any enclosure you might use) and just hide the USB cable somewhere, save the ALDL cable some wear and tear for the vehicles that don't have a cable integrated into it.

i've only come across 1 application that has issues so far: 88-93 grand prixs with a DIC. the drive circuit in them seems to be just weak enough to where even just having the cable hooked up will cause it to quit receiving ALDL data. have to either unplug the cable or have a toggle switch open the circuit for when you don't need to datalog. i've seen this with 3 different cars and don't know what to think of it. other DIC/DIS systems of the era don't seem to have an issue with a cable just being present.

[joegreen]

ok so i received my ft232rl today and soldered up one wire to the tx and rx and another wire to the ground. i cannot get the cable to work with winaldl or tunerpro rt. i tried doing cable tests and they all failed. I believe this is what it should look like. the tx and rx lights light up when i first put it into the computer. i looked around online and made sure the com port was correct and that is was set to 4800 baud which i read was 160 baud. Dont mind my somewhat archaic solder job. I had some crappy solder because i could not find my spool of the good stuff.

[RobertISaar]

does your ECM require the 10K to get data started? the Rx light should be flashing a lot if the ECM were pushing out data.

EDIT: there is also the possible issue of an incompatible driver which almost always is alleviated by using older drivers.

[phonedawgz]

My bench 7747 running ASDU connects right up without the 10K in place.

If your cable fails TunerPro RT's self test (test with the cable plugged into the laptop but not plugged into the vehicle) you are not going to connect to the ECM.

+1 on try rolling back the drivers and see if that clears up your problem.

[71-nova-lt1]

did u ground it and install the driver

[EagleMark]

+1 on try rolling back the drivers and see if that clears up your problem.

Here's the link to installation of cable to TunerPro RT plus the update and links to problems found with new drivers. Read carefully!

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?1557-Cable-Installation-to-TunerPro-RT

[joegreen]

ok so i am using the newest driver from january 2014. i am going to downgrade drivers under marks suggestion. i have the ground to pin a and the tx rx to pin e. i hope the driver is the issue. i will try that tomorrow. thanks for all your help. My burn 1 also arrived in the mail today so i got that set up and was able to open it in tuner pro.

[EagleMark]

I think a couple people recomended the older driver, I just pointed you to the thread and info thread of the people who found the issue!

Have to give credit were credit is due! :thumbsup:

[joegreen]

whenever i test the cable on tunerpro it tests it at 8192 baud. how can i get it to test at 160 baud? I also tried winaldl and that does not work either. win aldl says com4 ok and it is set to 4800 baud. when i check on my ports the aldl cable is assigned com4. i rolled back the driver to the one that works for everybody. im extending a line of credit to all old driver recommenders.

update. i downloaded version4 tunerpro and a ads file for the ecu. now i can get the program to say aldl connected on the bottom in blue but i am not receiving any data and the tx rx lights are not flashing. when i test the cable it is still testing at 8192 baud.

[Six_Shooter]

It won't test at 160 baud, TP RT is not designed that way.

The 160 baud comms are different than the 8192 comms in how they are initiated.

160 baud is flowing all the time, where as 8192 baud needs to have a request message sent first, for the ECM to start sending data.

The differences to have TP RT communicate with each type of ECM is within the ADX set-up, it's not something you control.

[RobertISaar]

i have a driver set as old as 2.4.16, if it were necessary.

[joegreen]

i would like to try that driver. does my setup look ok. tie rx and tx together. then one ground.

[RobertISaar]

here it is, along with FTClean to help remove any traces of any existing FTDI drivers.

[RobertISaar]

when you do the tunerpro cable test, do either the Tx or Rx LED light up for a short amount of time? if Rx and Tx are connected, they should both light up at the same time.

[phlips308]

hi,i was having problems with a self made arduino cable at first.i noticed that it wouldn't find it if it was plugged into the aldl.the first time it just started working,intermittent stuff is irritating.now mine connects every time,but some times i get errors.even worse with an old dell laptop.i am using an asus tablet with win 8.1 .im looking forward to assembling a Bluetooth aldl for the tablet.i found plans on google.the plans i found was setup for 8192 baud,but im sure the code can be modified.i have seen a post about adding stuff to the ecm definition for tunerpro rt to solve the errors.but im a little confused about the terminology .my aldl cable wont test ok if its plugged into the aldl.but it connects.the 299/$99 ecm uses 160 baud.

[joegreen]

Ok so i tried that driver and still no luck. When i do the cable test on tuner pro the tx light lights up for a split second. If i take the ground wire and the tx rx wire and rub them together the tx and rx lights light up. I tried different usb ports i tried winaldl nothing worked.