Help adj some bins for nitrous

[mynumber1hater]

Would some one like to take a crack at some LT1 bins for retarding the timing for a 150 shot? The copy and paste did not work very well, the file is at the bottom. Thanks

Extended Spark Advance Vs. RPM Vs. MAP

RPM MAP (Kpa)
25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100
4000 35.0 41.0 43.0 44.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 41.0 39.0 39.0 38.0 38.0 31.0 29.0 29.0 27.0
4500 35.0 41.0 44.0 44.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 39.0 38.0 31.0 29.0 29.0 27.0
5000 35.0 41.0 44.0 44.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 40.0 39.0 39.0 39.0 38.0 31.0 29.0 29.0 27.0
5500 35.0 40.0 44.0 44.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 40.0 39.0 39.0 39.0 38.0 31.0 29.0 29.0 27.0
6000 35.0 40.0 44.0 44.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 41.0 40.0 40.0 39.0 38.0 31.0 29.0 29.0 27.0
6500 35.0 40.0 44.0 44.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 41.0 41.0 41.0 39.0 38.0 31.0 30.0 30.0 30.0
7000 35.0 40.0 44.0 44.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 41.0 41.0 41.0 41.0 41.0 34.0 32.0 32.0 32.0

Main Spark Advance Vs. RPM Vs. MAP

RPM MAP (Kpa)
25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100
400 21.0 23.0 23.0 24.0 25.0 26.0 24.0 24.0 20.0 20.0 18.0 14.0 5.0 1.0 0.0 0.0
600 24.0 24.0 27.0 30.0 30.0 29.0 27.0 25.0 24.0 21.0 18.0 16.0 7.0 4.0 2.0 0.0
800 27.0 31.0 32.0 33.0 33.0 32.0 29.0 26.0 25.0 22.0 19.0 16.0 8.0 5.0 3.0 2.0
1000 32.0 38.0 39.0 36.0 34.0 33.0 31.0 29.0 26.0 23.0 20.0 16.0 8.0 5.0 4.0 4.0
1200 34.0 40.0 39.0 38.0 37.0 35.0 34.0 33.0 29.0 25.0 22.0 18.0 10.0 8.0 6.0 6.0
1400 35.0 40.0 41.0 40.0 38.0 36.0 35.0 34.0 32.0 28.0 25.0 22.0 14.0 11.0 8.0 8.0
1600 35.0 41.0 41.0 41.0 41.0 38.0 37.0 35.0 34.0 31.0 27.0 23.0 14.0 12.0 10.0 10.0
1800 35.0 40.0 43.0 43.0 41.0 39.0 38.0 37.0 36.0 34.0 30.0 26.0 17.0 15.0 13.0 13.0
2000 35.0 40.0 43.0 43.0 41.0 40.0 39.0 38.0 37.0 35.0 31.0 28.0 19.0 18.0 17.0 17.0
2200 35.0 40.0 43.0 43.0 42.0 40.0 40.0 39.0 38.0 37.0 33.0 31.0 22.0 22.0 21.0 21.0
2400 35.0 40.0 43.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 40.0 39.0 39.0 37.0 35.0 34.0 26.0 25.0 24.0 24.0
2800 35.0 40.0 43.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 40.0 39.0 38.0 37.0 36.0 35.0 29.0 29.0 28.0 27.0
3200 35.0 40.0 43.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 41.0 40.0 38.0 37.0 36.0 36.0 29.0 29.0 28.0 27.0
3600 35.0 40.0 43.0 44.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 41.0 39.0 38.0 37.0 37.0 31.0 29.0 29.0 27.0
4000 35.0 41.0 43.0 44.0 43.0 42.0 41.0 41.0 39.0 39.0 38.0 38.0 31.0 29.0 29.0 27.0

[EagleMark]

When you are trying to copy code don't use Quick reply, Go Advanced and use the Code button and paste code into the tags.

Everyone is going to be scared to give advice because of possibility of melting your motor for you! :yikes:

So you'll have to give a lot more info like what system, is it on micro switch only at WOT, did you install larger fuel pump, how is nitrous plumbed, how are you adding extra fuel? What does manufacturer say for spark retard during boost?

What year LT1? Mask ID?

I have an 1994 LT1 and I would like to add a 100HP shot! :jfj:

[RobertISaar]

you may want to completely remove your rev limiter, otherwise if you're spraying and run into it, normal fuel will be cut, and the only fuel that might be delivered is from a wet shot/direct port nitrous.

[mynumber1hater]

Compucar wet plate, ADJ FPR, walbro 255, spray comes on at micro WOT. 94 LT1 hot cam, 1.6s, no cat, M6. Fuel supply off the fuel rail service port 43psi. Pull 2 Deg for every 50hp. Plugs NGK 3177s BR6EF gap 37... Now that i just typed the plug gap i think thats tooooo much. Might be blowing the spark out... pooptickets.

[EagleMark]

you may want to completely remove your rev limiter, otherwise if you're spraying and run into it, normal fuel will be cut, and the only fuel that might be delivered is from a wet shot/direct port nitrous.Good point!


Compucar wet plate, ADJ FPR, walbro 255, spray comes on at micro WOT. 94 LT1 hot cam, 1.6s, no cat, M6. Fuel supply off the fuel rail service port 43psi. Pull 2 Deg for every 50hp. Plugs NGK 3177s BR6EF gap 37... Now that i just typed the plug gap i think thats tooooo much. Might be blowing the spark out... pooptickets.I have some experiance with LT1 $EE bin, but not much nitrous. I'll look around and see if I can find a good way to pull timing.

Does Nitrous need differant plugs like boost does? Six was telling us about shorter plugs and smaller gaps I think so they don't glow.

Does the nitrous come on all at once? Any RPM?

[EagleMark]

That looks like a pretty simple system. You installed the Nitorus nozzle in intake side of throttle plate? Where did you put extra fuel nozzle? Stock LT1 injectors?

Looked up those plugs you have and they seem to be proven for nitrous but gap was .025 to.030

One thing I would suggest you do is get the WOT BLM locker program from the $EE info thread and run it on your bin file. At WOT it will lock BLM to 128, I added 20% fuel and got AFR down to 12.8 to 1, O2 readings were steady, no cross counts and they hovered at around .900. This would be a good start on your bin to insure locked WOT fueling. This was stock engine. You really need to have your tune in order before you start blasting nitrous.

Are you still running the MAF? Is it running closed loop?

Some things to think about just from looking at $EE
1. Like Robert said get rid of fuel cut off. If you miss a gear and cut fuel off and still have nitrous it would not be good.
2. EGR off
3. Air diverter off.
4. WOT locker
5. Add fuel at WOT so your tune is in order for that engine before nitrous.
6. DFCO off
7. Cat overheat off.
8. Vats off
9. Traction control off
10. Various error codes for things we just disabled off.
11. Traction control spark retard all 0s

Just some things I would do before hand. If your tune is in order are your knock sensors still working properly with that built engine? If no knock retard can you add some timing and get some knock retard? If so good! Set timing back to no knock retard. Now we know the knock sensors are still working. So we can work on knock retard attack rate when nitrous is applied.

Since there is no RPM that nitrous comes on I am still looking for a way to take out spark at WOT only. You should probably take out more then the 6 degrees they recomend at first and do a couple runs and see if knock is present, then add 1 degree at a time till back to 6 they recomend... will look more for you in morning after I get some sleep!

Oh yeah I forgot...

:ttwwop:

[droptopstng]

hey just a thought dont get stuck on a particular plug or hung up on timing a bunch but start small.... around a .038 or 42 pill ,,,,,make sure bottle pressure stays around 950 and dont run the bottle under 4 or 5 lbs or it will change the tune up.....the big thing is pulling the plugs and checking them and do this often as it is your best way to see how its burning......make a full 2 or three sec hit then key the motor off and coast to a spot you can pull a few plugs......and under MOST circumstances around 3.5 degrees per 50 hp is what people say but we have 5.30 5.0 and 4.70 1/8th mile cars spraying 2 and 3 kits ....we dont get hung up on the stuff people say we just read the plugs and make passes.....always remember with juice if its too fat the upper ring lands pop off and too lean you get these cool holes in the middle of your pistons.....with all that said i do not promise any of this to be a fact on you car but we have not hurt a motor in the 3 years i have been participating in this program....knock on wood.... however I have had more cars on the bottle than you find at a fast and furious convention lol....I am an avid fan of n2o and believe everyone should try it at least once..

[mynumber1hater]

:scare:http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?649-LT1Brian-from-TEXAS (http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?649-LT1Brian-from-TEXAS) pics

[EagleMark]

OK you pass! :happy:

Haven't had time to follow up but should tonight.

[mynumber1hater]

Looks like i need to dump my tunercats and get tunerpro. So we can be on the same page.. Pulling the plugs tomorrow morning, and put the tune back to stock, with a smaller shot.

[EagleMark]

I've compared the 2 and TunerPro has more paremeters... as the definitions are community built the ones more popular have more work. With TC you get what they give you unless you buy the other program to change the VDF? And even then it is limiting. That is the beauty of TunerPro, no limits and can data log from same program. Plus you can save your XDF and ADX for each car you tune with notes for every paremeter you touch!

[mynumber1hater]

Is it free? IM having a hard time with that.. free things usual are not GOOD.

THIS FORUM IS SICK.... Im on another TC forum and i am getting no replies to my threads. Im just not in the right click...

Thanks For The Help GEARHEADS EFI

[gregs78cam]

Download it, try it, you'll see why so many people use it. For the price you can't beat it. WARNING: Tuning with TunerPro can be addicting.

[EagleMark]

Is it free? IM having a hard time with that.. free things usual are not GOOD.

THIS FORUM IS SICK.... Im on another TC forum and i am getting no replies to my threads. Im just not in the right click...

Thanks For The Help GEARHEADS EFIIt's free, but we frown on those who do not pay the $30. asked for donation!!! So he keeps making us cool affordable stuff! I have thought about not helping people who don't pay! If they end using it of course which anyone who's into tuning will be amazed at the built in customizable options!

The other forum you are on is more a professional OBDII forum run by TunerCat... Monadax was the scanner for TC that died in the middle, or was meant to die so Data Master would have sales or something political we don't know about...

[mynumber1hater]

30 bucks booo. That is a very good deal. I spent 250 on TC and datamaster for my LT1, it did come with the cable and was easy to install.:mad1: I did not know about tunerpro till i tried to start using TC...

[EagleMark]

http://tunerpro.net/

Get tunerpro RT

and all the files you'll need

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?335-16188051-and-16181333-PCM-Information-EE-EEB

Then read the stickys on top of this forum

[mynumber1hater]

Thanks, i got every thing lined out on the car. Regaped the plugs AND IT PULLS HARD... Can i get some help on converting the .uni files from TTS datamaster so i can show you the runs i made sat?

[EagleMark]

I don't know how to convert them, can you save data logs as an excell, or just zip it and post it I think I have datamaster EE that will play them...

so you running the nitrous or just getting ready?

[mynumber1hater]

Yes im running the spray...

[EagleMark]

n20sat.uni file, cruising at 50 to 60 mph your incoming air temp is 95f? I want to live there! or do you not have a cold air intake? Even at lite cruise you were getting tiny knock... voltage little low at 12.5 at highway cruise? Little rich everywhere but not sure that's a bad thing right now with low voltage and high IAT...

n20 2.uni file... WOW that's a lot or knock retard at WOT!!! Couple other things at WOT voltage goes down to 12.1 volts? Comes back to 12.8 at lower RPM. Watch your inj Duty Cycle at that WOT run around REC 900 and your in the 80% ++ plus range, so near or at running out of fuel, IIRC voltage on these $EE is from fuel pump so 12.1 volt over where it should be at closer to 14 volt could be lowering fuel delivery. Again IAT 86f? I want to live where it's 86f!!! I'm cold here...

Other than that it looks pretty darn good! :thumbsup: Just some tweaking, pull some timing... Voltage is where I would look first and why so high Incoming Air Temp?

[mynumber1hater]

n20sat.uni file, cruising at 50 to 60 mph your incoming air temp is 95f? I want to live there! or do you not have a cold air intake? Even at lite cruise you were getting tiny knock... voltage little low at 12.5 at highway cruise? Little rich everywhere but not sure that's a bad thing right now with low voltage and high IAT...

n20 2.uni file... WOW that's a lot or knock retard at WOT!!! Couple other things at WOT voltage goes down to 12.1 volts? Comes back to 12.8 at lower RPM. Watch your inj Duty Cycle at that WOT run around REC 900 and your in the 80% ++ plus range, so near or at running out of fuel, IIRC voltage on these $EE is from fuel pump so 12.1 volt over where it should be at closer to 14 volt could be lowering fuel delivery. Again IAT 86f? I want to live where it's 86f!!! I'm cold here...

Other than that it looks pretty darn good! :thumbsup: Just some tweaking, pull some timing... Voltage is where I would look first and why so high Incoming Air Temp?

First i want say thanks for your help. Second i live in baytown tx. Not sure what the temp was that day but it was warm outside, i am running a cold air intake into the finder... Third im very new to tuning. So im going to ask some noob questions.

Low voltage, bad alt? Or some wiring issue with the after market pump?
How do i get less knock retard at WOT?
WOULD you like a copy of my tune? I can post it.

[PJG1173]

low pump voltage could also be an indicator of a bad ground. as for less KR I'd be looking to get rid of the knock by backing off the timing or giving it more fuel at WOT.

[mynumber1hater]

Ground for the pump thats an easy check(i did the trap door mod) I will get on the voltage issue tomorrow that seems to be a major problem. And could line the rest of the issues out.

Would you guys pull timing in the tune or use an ign box.(i have a mallory 685 not installed)
Also how much is to much "KR"? 1-3 0r 5-8 exc.
Adj what bin/file to get more fuel at WOT???
Im new and learning fast.

[RobertISaar]

when it comes to nitrous, any knock is too much.

[mynumber1hater]

when it comes to nitrous, any knock is too much.

GOOD point......

[EagleMark]

I didn't study those data recordings to death but I would before I did anymore WOT nitrous runs. You were hitting 10 degrees spark retard in a couple places and I cringed while looking at the low voltage and Short term long term fuel not locked. :yikes:

Your asking for help and I will, I'm sure others will too. But in the end if you blow a motor we are only trying to help avoid that!!!!!

If you have a big fuel pump the issue could be a ground at pump or more commonly on the modified LT1 you need a hot wire kit for fuel pump. Check your charging system at batterey to see if it is working up to par. It probably is and IIRC the voltage showing in data log is from fuel pump. So lower voltage is lower fuel. Need to fix this or confirm it is wrong, the way it drops at WOT high rpm and comes back up some lower RPM I do beleive your pump is taking more power then stock wiring can provide.

Been looking through the TunerPro $EE mask and just can't seem to find any PE spark? Do you have TunerPro or since you had a DataMaster log I'm guessing TunerCat. Look through the mask for PE spark, if you find it see if it gives an address and I will try to add it to TunerPro mask and find it in some partial hacks I have for $EE LT1. But that is where I would pull spark. Study your data log and click on view Spark Retard, go slow and match up spark knock RPM in the 90 100 MAP and pull as much as it was showing retard. Even add a couple more for safety at this point... If you can't find a PE spark added then you'll have to pull it from main spark table.

From looking at your log earlier it looks like you were still getting some INT and BLM movements Short term and long term fuel in Datamaster. Need to download and read instructions on WOT BLM locker in EE thread:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?335-16188051-and-16181333-PCM-Information-EE-EEB

This will lock BLM and INT to 128 and add fuel from there when you adjust WOT fueling. If not then who knows what fuel it will add, your rich most places so it may not be adding enough, your voltage is low, you don't have a Wide Band O2 sensor so you really don't know how lean your running.

Look for a paremeter called "%Change To Fuel/Air Ratio Vs. RPM at WOT" and add 20% to all numbers in column. This needs to be done on a stock engine with good voltage so you may need more. But voltage has to be addressed first! Spark has to be pulled first! No more N20 till your a good boy! :yikes: Now go to your room and study your knock retard to find out where to pull spark advance! :laugh:

[RobertISaar]

assuming EE has a PE spark adder, or at least has been documented, i'm thinking there is nowhere near enough play in it as-is to get all of the KR out.

that and you would absolutely have to be in PE for it to be in effect as well.

[EagleMark]

I can't find one so far so don't know how much is there, if there? He's got plenty of room in the main spark tables for now...

[RobertISaar]

if nothing else, it could always be patched in.

i'm sure there is plenty of room on the E side for a patch like this.

[EagleMark]

Yeah but Uber Nerd hasn't taught grasshopper enough to do that yet... :innocent2:

Plus all I have is bits and pieces of $EE dissembly so I don't know? Weather is getting better here and I have so much to do it's going to be next winter before I'm even intrested...

[RobertISaar]

holy crap.

took a look at my disassembly of the E side of a BNDH (some type of 94-95 LT1 BIN), and there is almost 32KB of free space on it...

the things you could do with that much space. but yeah, adding in simple patches like PE spark would be easy with that much room to work with.

could almost even make a tutorial out of it. :)

[EagleMark]

holy crap.

took a look at my disassembly of the E side of a BNDH (some type of 94-95 LT1 BIN), and there is almost 32KB of free space on it...

the things you could do with that much space. but yeah, adding in simple patches like PE spark would be easy with that much room to work with.

could almost even make a tutorial out of it. :)You know I'd love to see some more tutorials so if you have time we will all learn! :thumbsup:

Can you add basic english to some of the stuff you do? Just incase it's over someones head... :innocent2:

[RobertISaar]

patching, or at least simple patches, is all about "what do you want to happen, when do you want it to happen, what should cause it to not happen".

in this specific situation, i would think adding in a table for PE spark would also benefit from having all PE added spark being removed instantly if any KR is being applied for obvious engine safety reasons. when all KR is gone, PE spark can reapply, either slowly and add a certain amount of every loop or instantly throw everything back in.

also, Mark, the plain/basic english is the commenting, which should break down scenarios nicely so that even someone that doesn't understand assembly can follow the program flow. if it doesn't, the commenting is either incomplete or incorrect. for all of my personal files for my nAst1 project, i have commented every single line as i write out it's assembly equivalent, since revisions do tend to happen and they go a lot more smoothly when you know what you're changing.

[EagleMark]

I've read some of the nasty stuff in nAst1 and your understanding of code and function is incredible. I can't imagine the time you have into it? I have at least 60 hours into $42 which is simple compared to this stuff! Just combining everything that was out there and adding to it over the years as my knowledge increased. I've added tons to $EE and hardly scratched the surface.

But back to LT1 and $EE. It has 2 TPS tables for WOT and 2 AFR tables for WOT which would be PE. But nothing in paremeters for spark during WOT? Seems like it should be there already but not found is dissasembly and added to mask. It's not like they didn't have room for it... I can't recall another mask that does not have some kind of spark for PE?

[RobertISaar]

hmm..... A1(and it's derivatives/predecessors) doesn't actually have a "PE spark adder" per se, but it does have a table used to add spark advance based on current target AFR. in actuality, it grabs the stoich AFR from it's calibration location, subs off the current target AFR to make a "difference from stoich" AFR, and then does a table lookup using that value to determine how much spark to add. i don't remember off-hand if there are any other qualifications added into it to prevent it from happening during a cold start or anything like that though.

perhaps EE is similar? the code to come up with this was fairly difficult to understand and wouldn't necessarily be easily found in someone's first or possibly second pass through the code. however, if EE is like most other masks of the era, there will be a section of code that is dedicated solely to adding and subtracting the various spark corrections from the main spark lookup. that's the key to finding the spark addition/subtraction tables.

slightly older masks basically juggled the main spark advance around in various registers and the stack and constantly updated the value throughout the calculation, rather than waiting for the end to do the final calculation. slightly harder to find in that case, since you need to constantly keep track of where the spark advance value is held, but still doable.

i've probably put more time into understanding HOW the ECM and algorithm works than i ever have datalogged and corrected my calibrations.

[PJG1173]

Just a dumb question here for the OP. Do you have a WBo2, or are you assuming your getting enough fuel at WOT by using the NB?

[mynumber1hater]

Updated: Pulled the walbro ground was in good shape. Checked voltage at the pump 12.09ish, hot wired the pump off my bottle heater its now getting 13.5 at the pump.(that was just quick check, need to wire it up right with a relay and switch) And do a data run NO SPRAY... I am taking into account all your info, its just alot.... I do have a LM1 O2 reader set up, with a bad cable, its on order.

[EagleMark]

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=673

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LPE&Product_Code=RXFLT1-FPKG-2&Category_Code=C296

http://www.racetronix.com/RX-FLT1-FPKG-2.html

Not like this has never happened before.

Your adding N20 which is like more oxygen, so you need to add more fuel or it will be way to lean, you added a pump but the wiring is a weak link.

We'll work on the rest, one by one, don't get sidetracked by what Robart and I are talking about. He's way smarter then me and I have a hard time keeping up to him and take advantage of all he wants to teach. We were just discussing why there's no PE or WOT spark adder available or documented in this mask. If we can't find it or build it in time then we will just have to pull some timing from main timing table.

[mynumber1hater]

Its cool, you guys can talk all u want... I made a binder of all this stuff, Ima tuning nerd now. LOL I will have the pump hotwired tomorrow. And log a run WITH NO DOPE!!!!!!!!!!! sad day hahha

I did find this max knock retard vs RPM (in PE) and max knock retard vs map (not in PE) maybe this is what you where looking for?

[EagleMark]

No we were trying to find the advance before the knock retard. No knock = no retard...

[mynumber1hater]

HMM i see. So im guessing you can see the list of tables. And what you are looking for s not there???


Found this also:

From Tunercats help file:
PE %Change To Fuel/Air Ratio Vs. RPM
This table is percent change to Fuel/Air Ratio used when in power enrichment (PE) mode Vs. RPM.

The values from this table and the PE % Change To Fuel/Air Ratio Vs. Coolant Temperature are summed to arrive at the Power Enrichment Fuel/Air Ratio.

The resulting air / fuel ratio can be calculated as follows:

PE AFR = 14.7 / (1 + %Change vs Cool/100 + %Change vs RPM/100)

For the selected RPM, suppose the percent change to Fuel/Air Ratio from the RPM table is = - 5.1 and the percent change to Fuel/Air Ratio from the COOLANT table at the selected coolant temperature is = 22.7, then the approximate Power Enrichment AFR would be:

14.7 / (1 -0.051+.227) = 12.5:1 AFR

Basically, for every 1% that you adjust the %change vs RPM table, the A/F ratio changes by 0.147. For example, if you are running 11:1(rich) and want to get to 12:1, subtract about 7% from the tables. Do the opposite if you are running lean.


From what I have found....you should tune your Air/Fuel ratio and then adjust your timing. What a lot of guys do is use a program like Datamaster to help adjust their timing. What they will do is record a run and then advance the timing(with Tuner Cat) a little(say 1 degree at a time). Then make another run and see if the PCM retards the timing at any point. If it does pull the timing back down 2 degrees at that RPM range. Repeat as necessary. This seems to work well for others.

That's all I have for now but if I find any more info I will be sure to post it

[EagleMark]

You got it! But without higer octane fuel or a cool day you'll find the LT1 timing is pretty well set, even with upgrades. Now you don't need anymore timing with juice, you need less...

But most of the guys around here use TunerPro as it's way cheaper, more options, totally customizable and has a data record feature in it as well. So it is TunerCat and Datamaster with no limitations at a fraction of cost...

But TunerCat and Datamaster are excellent products!

[mynumber1hater]

I got it, but dont understand it...... hahahaha So any changes i make in the %Change To Fuel/Air Ratio Vs. RPM the program will auto make changes in % Change To Fuel/Air Ratio Vs. Coolant Temperature ???

So i should add 20% to the %Change To Fuel/Air Ratio Vs. RPM ... So i just ADD .20 TO ALL THE VALUES?

Also a wibe band would help ALOT!!

[EagleMark]

I'd leave the coolant temp one alone, it is for warm up, you really shouldn't be doing WOT unless your warmed up anyway. It works fine.

What your after is the WOT AFR when engine is warmed up, you had the right table above.

I don't see any -8, only - I see is after redline. There is a .78! I increased all mine between 1200 RPM and 5600 RPM because I don't go higher. Now with juice and a stick you may want to do from 1200 up to max in case you miss a gear and over rev...

[mynumber1hater]

Im not sure if we are looking at the same table or type of table vs tunercats..... my table starts at 400rpm 4.7,4.7,-.8,-.8,.8,3.1,0.0,1.6,.8,2.3,8.6,9.8,6.6,2.7,2.7,2.7

[EagleMark]

That's not even close to any table I can find, nor does it progress like anything I can find?

Post up your bin file and let me take a look at it.

[mynumber1hater]

That bin, after added .2
I have 3 data logs too.


hotwire mod drive to my race spot
hotwire 2 mod wot pull
hotwire adjustments 1 wot made in main spark advance and extended spark advance 85 - 100 map after watching the log.

[EagleMark]

I'll find time to look at them later but how'd it do? Did voltage come up? Did knock go down?

[mynumber1hater]

Volts are up, first drive same knock, wot drive same knock, ADJ after log is better. but still alot of knock at far less rpm's Im on the right track i think. I will post the new bin of pulling timing. Please let me know if i pulled to much... Do you think i should add some more to the % table?

THis is the newest bins for pulling timing, on the way to the car to tune the computer. I will let you know how it does.

[EagleMark]

Well is it real knock? If you pull a bunch of timing does it go away? If not could be false knock.

Got good fresh fuel? I've been stung so many times by guys that got there car running and didn't tell me it was year old fuel...

[mynumber1hater]

Well is it real knock? If you pull a bunch of timing does it go away? If not could be false knock.

Got good fresh fuel? I've been stung so many times by guys that got there car running and didn't tell me it was year old fuel...

Not sure, will stock exhaust manifolds make false knock? Yeah i have seen that first hand too. I drive the car couple times a week good gas. Could use a fuel filter change...

NEW bins, and the new run..

[EagleMark]

I'll catch up and try to help...

But here's one thing tying me up today, my kids truck with the new TBI conversion that tuned out perfectly a week ago has been running worse each day. So kid says "I don't know" so we pull it in shop to find out whats going wrong... this filter was one week old. Happens all the time on conversions in old cars, new fuel system keeps gas flowing and sediment stired up and this is another reason you always run a filter before the inline pump.

So you say you made need a filter ay?

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=2165&stc=1&d=1333669512

[EagleMark]

I looked at your last log in Datamaster under a few cars and all the same but what is it? Camaro, Caprice? Looks like Auto...

Your WOT voltage did improve but at 5900 RPM your down to 12.8 volts and from 850 RPM to 3500 RPM your at 13.4-5. So maybe a belt slipping too?

Went back and read first few posts and you got a cam and 1.6 rockers, regular driving your rich, BLM should be closer to 128 and your hitting rock bottom at 108 so you need to adjust the VE tables for fuel. Is your pressure stock?

But WOT your hitting 90% Injector Duty Cycle in spots and O2 reading left stays in .9xx but right drops to .2xx and it shouldn't. Injector duty cycle should not go beyond 85% tops! Seems to be an area getting some knock too. Your running out of fuel. Or injectors are going static?

Watch your data log slow around Rec# 70 to 75 and 460. Actually watch the whole thing slow and study it. When the boxs change color it's an alarm, you can also click on View Knock Retard for another KR window. Looks like all real knock to me.

[mynumber1hater]

ARGH! im changing the filter in a just a minute. The tank was very clean, im thinking the pump or filter... I watched the injectors and they max out quick. This car is almost stock, that should not be happening.. I am watching the data very slowly and taking notes. We will get this worked out. At least its real knock.. Thanks for all the help.

[EagleMark]

Since you recently did everything but filter I would change it as it's easy. Partially clogged would explain fuel supply issue at high demand.

[mynumber1hater]

Filter did not help. I think my pump is bad. Turn the key on (but do not start it) and the pressure goes up, but bleeds off quick.. Like when you have a bad diaphragm in the FPR. The pump was used, and set for a couple years in storage. Might be toast.

And 94 Z28 M6

[EagleMark]

That's to bad but at least you found it before you leaned out your motor to a puddle...