Newbie question regarding Red/Blue PCMs

[57 Handyman]

Are the internals (processors, connector plug wiring, etc.) of Red/Blue PCMs the same? I have both a 16168625 BBMX and a 16195925 BHRJ. The 8625 is from a '93 Chevy Sierra 4.3L (I believe) while the 5925 is for a '94 Olds Bravada 4.3L. I have seen a bunch of write-ups on the 8625 and, therefore, my plans are to use the 8625 in my '92 4x4 S-10. On the other hand, I can find nothing about the 5925. I am wondering if the only difference is the chip and not the physical internals.

I ask this because I am running into the same "no start/run" problem when I install both PCMs. In so doing, I am trying to determine if the issue to the no start/run is the PCM or the adapter that I have constructed as I learn about tuning.

Lastly, is it possible to turn the 5925 into the equivalent of an 8625 by reprogramming and installing a PROM?

[wanderingturtle]

I've wondered how much hardware difference there is as well.
.

[57 Handyman]

One would think that GM would not design separate pieces of hardware to accommodate the various makes, models, and engine/transmission configurations. In the absence of an authoritative/definitive response from someone, and once I get more comfortable with and know what I am doing with these PCMs, I will perform a test to validate or invalidate my hypothesis regarding common PCM hardware.

[buddrow]

To somewhat answer your question, they are different beasts in a few ways. First the 8625 will run the TBI engine just fine, with 2 injectors, blah blah blah. The 5925 is meant to run the CPFI(spider injector) style of multi-port injection. Is the wiring at the red/blue connectors different between the two, you betcha! Stick to the pcm that "came with" the engine you are trying to run. The 5925 likely will never start your engine in its current state.. HTH

Buddrow

[57 Handyman]

buddrow, thanks for providing input to this thread. So, based on what you are saying, the 5925's red/blue connectors will NOT fire the 2 TBI injectors because the BCC (which includes the .bin, .xdf, and . adx are different plus the red/blue connectors are wired differently. Interesting...

With regard to your recommendation of sticking with the PCM my engine came with, all my research/readings online say that it is possible and likely worth the effort to upgrade to the 50x's faster 8625 PCM rather than stick with the slower 4288 ECM that came stock in my '92 4.3L S10.

[buddrow]

It's not so much the connectors themselves as the hardware internal to the pcm as well as the software that runs everything is different.

The '4288 is a direct replacement for the '7747, provided they are both from the same engine size, 4.3,5.0,5.7... The '7747 may not be the best choice for performance applications, but for simplicity, it would be an easier swap than the 8625 since it's a direct swap, no pin swapping. I know this because I have done such a swap in a friends '92 with the '288. The 8625 will run the 4.3L, you will just have to do some pin swapping at the pcm connector. There are wiring diagrams available on this site, or if necessary I may be able to provide you with wiring diagrams for both pcms.

The BCC(broadcast code) is the calibration code name/designation.
the .bin is the actual calibration file
the. xdf is used by tunerpro to organize the .bin file for human viewing, modification, etc.
the .adx is solely for datastream interfacing, datalogging, etc.

These are all different from one pcm to the next, but are the same between different calibrations/.bins of the same pcm number, if that makes sense.
Just food for thought.

Buddrow

[57 Handyman]

Buddrow,

Thanks for your offer to assist me with tuning/reprogramming the 4.3L in my '92 S-10. If the 7747 is a direct swap to my stock 4288, are there benefits to making the swap? Is the internal processor speed higher or the same 160 baud in the 4288?

I am aware of the repining required in switching from the black 4288 connectors to the red/blue for the 8625. I guess my preference for the 8625 is tied to the benefits I've read about on the site and, more so, the amount of work others have already done with the 8625. While I have seen and found a few wiring diagrams, I would appreciate seeing a listing which you have used with success and what your recommendations you'd make regarding sensors, such as O2 and knock sensors. Both of these are the stock pieces and I was wondering if I should be using different ones.

Again, thank you for helping.

[buddrow]

The main benefit to swapping to a 7747 over 8625 is plug-and-play. The 7747 doesnt require any modifcations to the connectors or anything else, its a direct replacement. The 288 has limited support versus the 7747(which is very heavily supported on this site) in regards to xdf, adx, bins, etc. The 7747 is inferior to the 8625 in a couple of ways depending on your perception of things. The 7747 is 160 baud(yuck) vs 8625 which is 8192(9600)baud, this is only noticeable during datalogging/data aquisition though. The 8625 has higher resolution fuel and spark tables which is a benefit, but not a ncessity in my opinion. Ive been running a modded 7747 in my 90 Chevy and to the unaware, you couldnt tell the fuel and spark maps stop at 3600rpm. When it comes to tuning these ecms/pcms, hardware required to do so comes into play. How are your soldering skills as some are required to make updating the bin possible. Time for coffee...:-)

Buddrow

[57 Handyman]

Buddrow,

You've just about got me convinced :thumbsup: regarding pros and cons for switching to a 7747. I'm re-evaluating my needs in light of what I've experienced in getting my truck to run smoothly and dependably. At present, it maybe a whole bunch of problems, i.e., vac leak, possible sensor, need to rebuild the TBI again, fuel relay/pump, etc. on top of the internal engine mods I've made...marine cam, .020-in overbore, higher compression--flat-top pistons, 96 Vortec heads, etc. Also, since I wanted to keep the TBI (vs change to a carb), some of these mods resulted in no EGR--the Edelbrock 2114 intake does not have a place for one. Is yours a 4.3L or V8 in your '90 Chevy?

As for soldering skills, I'll be able to do the ones described on this as well as other sites. Now, I also need to find a 7747.

[buddrow]

If it were me, I would swap in the 7747 and be done. Maybe a few tweaks here and there to the cal/bin. When swapping ecm/pcm's, always make sure the net resistor matches the engine family, i.e. v6-v6, v8-v8. Also, you mentioned sensors, you can retain your factory '288 sensors as they are the same as 7747 hardware. You can find the 7747 in most 88-91 Chevy/GMC trucks at most salvage yards fairly cheap(under $50) at pull-a-part places. Pulling it yourself insures what you get, full size trucks had the 7747 in v6 and v8 trim, if in doubt, run the .bin/BCC against the list for the 7747's. And don't fret too much if the truck you get it from is a manual trans and your is auto, you can change between the two in the .bin file with Tunerpro.

Installing the Moates adapter in the 7747 is pretty straight forward and easy to do even with minimal soldering skills.

But before you embark on the swap, verify all mechanical issues are squared away, otherwise you can chase your own tail for days, weeks...:-)

Buddrow

[57 Handyman]

Buddrow,

I am leaning toward doing what you suggest about using a 7747. With respect to verifying the mechanical issues before making the ECM to PCM swap, that is exactly what I have been trying to do, especially, with regard to the EGR. I have been focusing on the EGR because it is the one sensor that I eliminated. However, that being said, I don't exactly know how significant an impact the EGR has on my 4.3L running smoothly and dependably. Additionally, I don't understand to what extent the engine modifications I've described above contribute to the issue of smooth and dependable performance.

Up to this point, I have been unable to take any action on what you've suggested in this thread because I am currently away from home attending Hot August Nights in Reno and will return home in Hawaii on Tuesday. While here in Reno, I have been searching online for a 7747 and have found several candidates. As you may realize, the availability of parts in the islands is very limited. I will get back to you shortly. Again, thanks for your help.

[buddrow]

The only time you may experience an issue where EGR is causing a driveability concern would be if the egr valve is being opened by a misplaced vacuum line maybe, if the pintle valve is stuck allowing exhaust gas to enter the intake, causing rough running and such. But just eliminating the egr shouldn't cause any ill effects. You can "eliminate" the egr in the .bin so the ecm doesnt even look for it. It isnt electrically connected to anything in the ecm other than the vacuum control valve so the ecm will never know its gone until its commanded and the ecm looks for a change in MAP sensor signal. If it doesnt see the change it expects, it'll set an egr code, but still have no adverse effects on engine performance.

As far as the mods you have made, do you have specs on the "marine" cam? Also, you may have head-to-intake mating issues, but I can neither confirm nor deny that at this point, ill have to investigate that. Do you have the casting numbers on the heads you're using by chance? I know the intake port is slightly higher(raised roof) on the v8 Vortec heads which can cause mating/sealing issues between the head and intake, the v6 may be a similar situation.

I can only imagine how scarce parts are on the island, that's gotta complicate things. Have fun in Reno.

Buddrow

[57 Handyman]

Hey Buddrow,

Got back home the other day but couldn't and can't get to the truck until an hour from now. The Navy Hobby shop where I have my S10 has limited hours.

The one thing that is interesting about the EGR is the ECM has NOT set any codes. Also, glad to know the absence of the EGR has minimal impact on how motor runs. Unfortunately, that means the cause of my idle problems is something else.

With regard to the Marine Cam Specs, I did have that information some place...just need to find it. As for the casting numbers for my Vortec heads, I will remove the valve covers and get those to you.

Since I've been away from working on and messing around with the truck for a week or so, that absence will allow me to have a fresher perspective rather than a mindset. Also, I know your insights will help. I'll get back with more info soon. Thanks

[buddrow]

Sounds like its time to hook up(if not already) the correct pcm, a vacuum gauge and a timing light and have a look at things. Also check for any vacuum leaks around the intake ports. Spray some brake cleaner around the port area, listen for a change in idle.

Buddrow

[57 Handyman]

Buddrow,

After doing some digging, I was able to find these cam specs...Elgin Pro E-1033-P:

Valve lift: .403 Intake/.410 Exhaust
Lobe centers: 108/116
SAE duration: .271/.284
.050 duration: .202/.213

Valve springs are stock.

I'll get the head casting info today and additional efforts to find vacuum leaks.

[57 Handyman]

Buddrow,

Finally got around to pulling valve covers and getting cylinder head casting number...10235772. From my online research and reading, these were the "best" 96+ heads to use when rebuilding a Chevy 4.3L V6. As for doing any port-matching of the intake-to-head mating surfaces, I have to admit that I didn't do anything in those areas since I had no previous experience doing that so just ignored it. Were you successful in confirming the potential effects of different heights having an impact? Because this was not a serious performance build, I wasn't concerned with it when I put the motor together.

I found my vacuum gauge and will begin a serious and methodical search for any leaks in the top half of the motor.

Blaine

UPDATE: I hooked up my vac gauge to the EGR vacuum port at the base of the TBI. After several cycles of start, run, rough idle while struggling to keep running, then dying, restart again, struggle, and die once more, the motor finally settled down to running longer than 30 seconds to a minute. With the vac gauge installed, the readings started at 20 lbs, the bounced between 16.5 - 18 lbs. After several restarts, the engine would idle until I turned off the key. What appears to have been a marking point was when the engine temperature reached around 200 deg F which resulted in the radiator fan kicking on. Don't know if the temp is is of any significance but I thought I'd mention it. After letting the engine cool, attempted another restart and it started up and ran fine. After these multiple restart, I am now beginning to under if the ECM "learned" something and is now using those settings to control the motor.

As part of arriving at this somewhat acceptable condition, I did a few other checks:
(1) sprayed starter fluid along the mating surfaces between intake and heads - NO CHANGE
(2) sprayed fluid onto the base of the TBI as well at mating areas for sensors--TPS, IAC, and MAP - NO CHANGE engine started, idled, then died.
(3) disconnected ESC - NO CHANGE engine started, idled, then died.
(4) disconnected TPS - NO CHANGE engine started, idled, then died.

I will return tomorrow attempt to start the engine and continue to monitor performance.

[57 Handyman]

Buddrow,

My apologies and sorry for the extended delay in getting back to you. Well, I did return to the shop the following day and to my great dismay and disappointment, the problems were back! Talk about being pissed...I walked away for several days and went about doing other things. Now, I'm back to getting this darn truck of mine fixed and on the road.

So, where to start???

First, I was able to get a 1227747 on Ebay out of a 90-91 4.3L; it should arrive sometime this week. Do I need to do mods to it before plugging it in? You've stated I need to get the mechanical stuff straight, but I don't know what else to do. Any recommendations?

Thanks for your assistance.

[buddrow]

Double check all grounds. Also, jump diagnostic pins or hook up laptop/tunerpro to gather any codes that may be stored. Could also be valves adjusted a tad too tight.

Buddrow

[ony]

handyman how was it running before it was modified? was the check engine light on or anything. when you are hooked to it datalog and record and save a file then post the file.

[57 Handyman]

Hey Anthony,

When I first started the motor, it was a fresh rebuild with all the internal engine mods. It ran just fine with the 4288 ECM. Then, something happened when I attached the ECM-to-PCM adapter I made as a means to hook up the 8625. I went the adapter route because I wanted to have an easy escape route to go back to the 4288 in the event I screwed up tuning the 8625. However, since the motor wouldn't start with the 8625, I decided to go back to using the 4288. Unfortunately, that is when all the problems with rough idle, struggling to stay running, and shutdowns/dying surfaced. These problems even persisted when I inserted the PROMs you sent.

Interestingly enough, for some reason, I don't get any check engine lights unless I disconnect a sensor.

lastly, I have not done any data logging because: (1) I am still learning how to get my computer to sync with the AutoProm, (2) then connect via the ALDL. Besides that, the motor won't stay running long enough to attempt any data logging.

If it isn't one thing, it is another...

[ony]

I made a adapter and got 1 wire wrong and blowed the modgul in the dist. truck wouldn't start with the 288 reinstalled.it is a possiblityyou may have damaged the modgule most of the time the vehecele don't run at all but it might run badly.if there is a orielys or auto zone over they can check it. tell them to load it heavy when its checked. if it is bad or going bad it wont turn on the cel light. all the red underlines I must not be speling very good this morning.

[57 Handyman]

LOL...wow, before I installed the adapter, I checked and rechecked that each of the wires was attached to the correct pin in the schematics I had. That is not to say, the schematics were 100% correct. I also did continuity checks with a VOM.

Regarding the Ignition Contol Module, I had considered it as a possible source of problem but had not done a swap out because the rough idle problems disappeared and the engine ran fine at higher RPMs. Would this be the situation, and make sense, if the ICM was bad or going bad?

[57 Handyman]

Buddrow,

I got the 7747 ECM but it didn't come with a PROM. So, on a whim, I stuck one of the PROMs that Anthony had sent me some time ago for the 4288. This one was a BCC BARL and had been modified for no EGR. Don't know if this was/is an unadvised move. Anyway, the engine started up fine and ran for as long as I would let it run. I turned off the ignition and did several restarts. In park, the idle is a bit on the high side (11-1300 rpm) but the motor isn't struggling or slows down and dies.

I did notice the Check Engine Light faintly flickering but it doesn't display any codes when I turn off the ignition and place the key in ON. I connected a SNAP ON Scanner but am not able to get any readings nor can I get the scanner to display any live data. So, it appears there is something amiss with the ALDL and codes when the 7747 is installed with the 4288 PROM.

Because the 7747 with the 4288 PROM resulted in the engine running for an extended period, I was hoping to attempt data logging. However, this issue with the ALDL might not enable me to do that.

Since I have the MOATES AutoProm, I was thinking of grabbing a 7747 BIN that closely matches my 4.3L TBI with 700r4 and burning a PROM. The one that comes close is the [AKDX 87 G-M-R-V Van 4.3TBI 700r4] that I found in the thread...

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?304-1227747-ECM-Information-42

One question that I have is will I have to load appropriate sets of .xdf and .adx files into TunerPro in order to do the burn? If yes, which ones would I need/use?

Once again, one step forward, one step backward....

[ony]

that is a good plan the747 was in limp mode.these should work.

[57 Handyman]

Thanks Anthony, after I sent the response, I found those two files with the BIN I downloaded. Now, I need to look/find locally or order some PROMs. I don't have access to the device to erase the PROMs that I have. I also plan to send back to you both PROMs and the ALDL cable shortly.

As I mentioned, for some reason, the shop's SNAP ON scanner was not able to grab any data or codes. I am hoping that isn't another problem I have to resolve before I can do data logging.

Have a good week!

[57 Handyman]

UPDATE: On Monday, I tried again to read codes with a scanner. Unfortunately, the scanner would not connect to the ECM via the ALDL. I suspected there were codes because the CEL kept flashing although faintly. So, I went back to the tried and true bent paperclip. The only code was 51--PROM incorrectly installed. SURPRISE!!!

At this point, I have stopped starting and running the engine until I can install a proper PROM for this ECM. Earlier this week, I found and order 4 new 2732A PROMs which should arrive by this weekend. Not surprisingly, I was not able to find any PROMs locally.

[buddrow]

Hopefully the 2732's are new and blank otherwise you shall need to erase them. The PROMs are not interchangeable between the 288 and 747 unfortunately as you discovered.

[57 Handyman]

Buddrow,

Yes, the PROMs are NEW and BLANK. Unfortunately, I did not receive them the other day; I was hoping to burn the PROM and install/test them out this weekend. I have downloaded and saved the .bin, .xdf and .adx files to work with my '92 4.3L with 700R4 transmission. I've opened TunerPro RT and looked at the info but it is all greek to me. Earlier in this thread, you mentioned that you are running a 7747 in your own truck. What modifications do you recommend I make to the AKDX 87 G-M-R-V Van 4.3TBI 700r4.bin?

When I was searching for PROMs in Honolulu, one of the sales associates at an electronic supply store cautioned me that he found some old INTEL PROMS would not erase and re-program/burn properly. I was wondering if anyone had experienced this. Also, has anyone had any luck with purchasing and using the $25.00 UV Erasers sold on ebay?

Thanks for your help.

[57 Handyman]

Here we go again: Is it me or what...don't answer that.

Well, I received the 2732A PROMs and have been trying to learn how to write/burn the .bin to the PROMs. After spending half the morning, looking in and throughout all of the TunerPro screens and online here, I find a reference on the Moates site which indicates that there is no BURN or WRITE function in TP and that I need to download and install FlashBurn. Eureka!!!! But wait, there is more!

Once FlashBurn is installed and working with my laptop, I find that the combination of the AutoPROM and FlashBurn will not allow me to burn 2732A PROMs. The combo only allows READ-only function. YIKES...so now what? Is this correct or am I once again missing something? Do I need to find another device to burn 2732A PROMs?

Unless someone tells me otherwise and/or presents some other options for me to burn 2732A PROMs, my next step appears to be to reconfigure my 7747 ECM by installing a modified ZIF socket and use 28-pin EEPROMs. Once again...live and learn!!

[ony]

handyman the autoprom wont burn a chipthat is not electircly arasable I think.if you post the bin you want burned I will burn you one and you can check the 747 out [[ before you go though the putting in a socket]].

[57 Handyman]

Hey Anthony, again you come to my rescue. Thanks my friend, I appreciate and accept your offer to burn and send me the PROM. I have new 24-pin PROMs and will send you a replacement or two when I return your other gear. Just let me know if you need them right away...

The .bin I need is...AKDX 87 G-M-R-V Van 4.3TBI 700r4.bin. It can be found in this thread

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?304-1227747-ECM-Information-42

and is listed in input/response #5 (this listing is alphabetical).

[ony]

it may take acouple days iwill get back to you. if you want to program chips or run your autoprom in live mode I have a 288 with the socket changed I will loan you for a while. it reads the map at 95-96 kaps where it should read 99-100.

[57 Handyman]

Anthony, you are one generous and great guy! I appreciate the offer to loan me your modified 4288. So, did you soldered in a 28-pin socket? I have seen a thread in which Dave W describes that procedure and I am going to do the same. It just doesn't make sense to keep messing around with the 24-pin PROMs which are getting "harder than hen's teeth to find". I will wait for the chip you burn before doing "open-heart" surgery on my 7747. Thanks again.

[ony]

yes its not to bad if you know how to soider ,the article you read was it by eagle mark? I soidered the socket to the borad so I could close the lid. I have had 2 ecms go bad that was soidered that way, I got the adapter out of the first one the next time I tore it up removing it so next time I am going to use the zif socket first then if the ecm goes bad I can just pull the adapter.

[57 Handyman]

Yes, that is the article by Eagle Mark...too bad he passed away. So much information gone.

Ah, ok on soldering and re-soldering...so, are you recommending I solder a ZIF into the board rather than a modified 28-pin adapter? I saw an article on the MOATES site where they soldered their G2 0.6" adapter for using 28-pin 27SF512 EPROMs. I think they also had a ZIF socket sandwiched between the board, 28-pin adapter socket, then the ZIF on top. It looked very tall and definitely could not seal the ECM.

Did you determine what cause your ECM's to fail? The one concern I have is applying too much heat and frying some other components.

[ony]

I think it was just age and where.bothwhere747s shode tps not working. this 288 was a remananfractured it shows map reading lower than than true,but it works for checking things out.

[ony]

one thing that eagle mark pointed out was a [[ good soilder sucker]]].

[57 Handyman]

I found two types of solder suckers at the electronics supply store: vacuum type and a wick. I'll give both a try after getting my 7747 running with a proper chip and doing a data log.

[ony]

handyman sorry for the delay had somethings come up. I lost your address, send it to antgene@outlook.com got you a chip programmed I don't know if they call it a zif or zip, but the adapter socket fits in it then if you use your auto prom you should use a 28 pin one on your autoprom connecting cord the little pins on the cord are easyer to bend and brake than the socket the recommend using with it. I have both one has a lever to lock the chip, the other one plugs in the the white computer cord with the red stripe.

[57 Handyman]

Anthony,

Just sent email to your outlook account. Thanks. I will wait to receive your package before I ask additional questions regarding your suggestions.

I have been seriously considering just modifying the 7747--swapping the 24-pin socket with a modified 28-pin. The only thing holding me back is verification that the AKDX binary file is the right one to start with and will get rid of the Code 51. Also, running the right .bin would be a good test that the ECM is NOT in Limp Home Mode function. More importantly, I want to make sure the ALDL connectivity is back to normal.

[ony]

have yo done any data logging? if not look and make sure I put the no:rolleye:tch to notch n that big chip and holder

[57 Handyman]

No, I have not done any data logging because with the incorrect EPROM the ECM was in limp home mode. Also, when I connected a scanner to the ALDL, I was not able to read any codes. Once I installed the EPROM you sent with the AKDX bin, the motor ran fine initially. After 4-5 restarts, the motor began to falter and struggled to idle smoothly. From that point on, it was hard to start and I could see heavy streams of fuel (not a fine mist) pouring from the injectors. I suspect one of the areas in need of some attention will have to be the idle fuel mixture.

Now with the AKDX installed, my next objective is to figure out how to data log using my AutoPROM.

[Stokes1114]

You really should get the datalogging up and running for even the initial start ups. You can record it all and be able to look through the log and see most of the problems your experiencing.

[57 Handyman]

I was successful in getting three data log files which I uploaded into a new thread...

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?6814-Need-help-deciphering-7747-data-logs&p=67408#post67408
(http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?6814-Need-help-deciphering-7747-data-logs&p=67408#post67408)
After posting the data logs, it dawned upon me that when I opened TunerPro (to begin data logging) the software had loaded the last set of .bin, .xdf, and ,adx files. I had read somewhere that prior to starting data logging, there should have been a copy of an .adx/.ads file loaded.

Will having these "old" files loaded in TunerPro have an effect or in some way contaminate the data logs?

Do you recommend that I do a new set of data logs with only an appropriate .adx loaded?

Lastly, is there a way that I can extract and save the .bin file that is currently burned on the EPROM in the ECM? What are the steps for doing this task?

[ony]

yes, just down load the file you sent me and have tp open it.i looked at the datalogs, put the 288 back in with the chip that went to my truck and get a data log at 185 degrezz at idle with out giving it gas and let me look at that.you can read the 232 chips but you cannot pro gram them. tuner cats has a free to try program that includes the 747 ecm you may want to look and play wit it. try pluging the data log cord I sent and see if it will be picked up by the auto prom driver.you are advancing [data logging.:happy:]

[stew86MCSS396]

Hey Anthony,

When I first started the motor, it was a fresh rebuild with all the internal engine mods. It ran just fine with the 4288 ECM. Then, something happened when I attached the ECM-to-PCM adapter I made as a means to hook up the 8625. I went the adapter route because I wanted to have an easy escape route to go back to the 4288 in the event I screwed up tuning the 8625. However, since the motor wouldn't start with the 8625, I decided to go back to using the 4288. Unfortunately, that is when all the problems with rough idle, struggling to stay running, and shutdowns/dying surfaced. These problems even persisted when I inserted the PROMs you sent.

Interestingly enough, for some reason, I don't get any check engine lights unless I disconnect a sensor.

lastly, I have not done any data logging because: (1) I am still learning how to get my computer to sync with the AutoProm, (2) then connect via the ALDL. Besides that, the motor won't stay running long enough to attempt any data logging.

If it isn't one thing, it is another...

This seems to be an important piece of the puzzle. Ran fine with '288 initially then like you said the problems came after the '8625. In one of your post, I noticed you said the E-fan kicked on 200dF. The data log you posted, yeah rich and engine temp never got over 140dF. Anyway, I have a few '747s that you can try out. The only V6 one I have is missing the PROM chip so I need to make one. I'll prolly burn the one you posted in one your threads. I can also bring my antiquated laptop and see if there's anything that seems amiss. Just let me know when the next time you're gonna go play!

[57 Handyman]

... Just let me know when the next time you're gonna go play!

Hey Stew,

I accept your offer. I should be at the hobby shop Friday afternoon...drop me a text.

Blaine

[stew86MCSS396]

It was a great pleasure to put a face to a screen name!!! Don't want to steal your thunder...anyhoo drove home with 2732A in hand, (btw thanx) stuck it in my burner, did a blank check, loaded AKDX.bin, burned and verified. Next test is to stick it in my home brewed UV eraser and try it again.

[ras"86]

how did you homebrew the eraser? I've been looking for a uv source.

[stew86MCSS396]

Please, please, please read about the inherent dangers when dealing with UV light!!! Purchased 4W UV-C G4T5 bulb (https://www.amazon.com/UV-C-UltraViolet-G4T5-EdenPure-Purifier/dp/B008RYOY8U) and this florescent utility light (https://www.google.com/search?q=0053444+light&oq=0053444+light&aqs=chrome..69i57.15323j0j1&client=ubuntu-browser&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8). Stuffed it in a gutted L69 ECM case and found a suitable 6v power supply (leftover from an old cell phone charger). Drilled a hole the same size as the window on the EPROM. I'll just set the EPROM over the hole, plug the cell phone charger into a power strip, turn light on w/ power strip switch and walk away for 30 minutes. Crude but it works. Once you start using EEPROMs, you'll never go back!!!

[ras"86]

Sounds like a project. I have a few old eproms that need checked out. thanksa lot. What is the normal erase time? 15-20min.

[stew86MCSS396]

It seems to vary as I've left them in there for 15-20min and they would blank check or not! Sometimes when they blank check alright, they don't burn correctly so I cook them longer. It's kinda annoying!!!


It was a great pleasure to put a face to a screen name!!! Don't want to steal your thunder...anyhoo drove home with 2732A in hand, (btw thanx) stuck it in my burner, did a blank check, loaded AKDX.bin, burned and verified. Next test is to stick it in my home brewed UV eraser and try it again.


On second thought, stuck the 2732A into a OE PROM carrier and put it into one of my '747 ECM. You can borrow for comparison with your '747 if yours continues to not run right. BTW that AKDX.bin didn't seem to have EGR disabled.

[57 Handyman]

...stuck the 2732A into a OE PROM carrier and put it into one of my '747 ECM. You can borrow for comparison with your '747 if yours continues to not run right. BTW that AKDX.bin didn't seem to have EGR disabled.

:mad1:
OK, guess I need to learn more about what needs to be done to modify the bin...lol. I did re-solder the few pins of the ZIF that looked suspect. Once I re-burn the 28-pin with the AKDX bin, I'll install it into my modified 7747 and put the ECM into the truck. If the motor doesn't run better, I'll take you up on the offer to borrow your 7747.

I also downloaded WINALDL and installed it onto my Surface Pro 4. I was able to connect to the ALDL using my AutoProm setup and it appeared to be capturing data. However, there was a flashing RED box to the right of the CONFIGURATION tab. Also, whenever I tried to place "checks" under the FLAG DATA and other tabs, the "checks" disappeared. So, something is amiss...don't know if my setup was working correctly. I will keep fiddling with it as well as do some reading.

[stew86MCSS396]

To turn EGR off, Open up TunerPro RT and scroll all the way to the bottom to "Patches." All you gotta do is apply the EGR patch. Once that's done, I will save as renaming it to xxxxsansEGR. Yeah, that was an incredibly fast lightning round when I showed you how to change that one VE cell that was reading rich. You shouldn't need to use WinALDL since you have TunerPro RT. Just download the right ADX file and you can use it like a scanner.

[57 Handyman]

Huh, didn't realize or think of using it that way. So, just load only the ADX. The one I have is $42-1227747-V5.2.adx. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

[stew86MCSS396]

Don’t quote me but I think you need the xdf file too.

[stew86MCSS396]

It seems to vary as I've left them in there for 15-20min and they would blank check or not! Sometimes when they blank check alright, they don't burn correctly so I cook them longer. It's kinda annoying!!!




On second thought, stuck the 2732A into a OE PROM carrier and put it into one of my '747 ECM. You can borrow for comparison with your '747 if yours continues to not run right. BTW that AKDX.bin didn't seem to have EGR disabled.

So being I can't leave things alone, I took the 2732A back out, put it in the eraser for 30m, blank check good, deleted EGR in AKDX.bin burn and fail!!! Erased for 30m again, blank check good, burned and success!!! Soooo...even with this new 2732A, erasing with UV light routine continues to be problematic...