Please guide me on how to datalog.

[Shawn1989]

it is damn near impossible getting ahold of eaglemark with his medical issues; so, i NEED my car to be running good before december 6th to make a drift event.

i have the cable
i have the drivers
i have a computer with both winaldl [which doesn't recognize my pcm.... com port is correct and i tried both baud rates.... it says it's ok but won't show anything on tables] and tunerpro; which i have no clue where to begin with it...... i found a tutorial BUT the screenshots are broken.

so im at a loss. if ANYBODY can please help me; that would be FANTSTIC.

car - 1991 mazda miata
computer - 16196395
ditched the auto trans
no a/c
no smog equipment
rebuilt vortec 350 330hp crate
removed regulator from throttle body and am running external one at 17psi per my injectors

the engine smells SUPER rich. already had a base tune by him and i need to datalog so i can send it to him and get a revised tune.
the engine falls on its face if i blip the throttle, but if i ease into it, it does ok.
at the top end, it stutters like timing/starved of fuel.

i really need help. can anybody please guide me?

i can't do any WOT pulls unless its on the dyno because it just blows off the tires in 4th gear [225/45/15 hankook rs3's with locked 4.10 diff]

thanks in advance.
--Shawn Prince

[steveo]

im not really into that ecm, but i can probably help you start datalogging with tunerpro. i'll assume you know nothing at all just so nothing is missed

first you need an appropriate ADX file. adx stands for aquisition definition somethingorother. there's a few in this thread, i'd download them all since im not sure which one will work best for you.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?337-16196395-PCM-Information-OE

im not sure which one you should use, depends which bin mark used i guess? since you aren't using the automatic trans anymore, probably any of them will give you good data.

first some setup, this only has to be done once. plug your ALDL cable in if it's USB.

1. acquisition menu -> load adx file (load your ADX now)

2. it's most helpful to load an XDF that matches your bin file and the bin file you're running at this point, but not necessary, so dont worry about it yet. your xdf and adx do not have to match just to log some data.

3. tools menu, preferences. choose data acq. tab.
select data acq. interface type: "Use Plug-in".
configure plug-in component
port type standard serial
now choose your com port here
do not "test for valid interface" just make sure you get the right comport

setup is done now.

close the preferences dialog, and go back to the acquisition menu. choose "Item Lists". then select "Default View".

you should see some engine parameters here which obviously aren't moving. this is all the stuff that the ADX file you're using can work with. this is also where we'll prove it's collecting data. if there are no parameters in that window,

plug the cable in, turn ignition on, dont bother starting the car yet, that's not necessary.

aquisition menu, start/stop data scan.

best thing to do now is to move the gas pedal and look at the TPS reading. if it changes, you're golden, it's recieving data.

you can then start the car, hit the record button and take a drive. just make sure the data is updating.

when you're done and you press STOP, it should prompt you to save the file somewhere.

[dave w]

If you can, try lowering the fuel pressure.

dave w

[steveo]

i'd prove it's rich first, smell isn't enough; most people mistake the smell of a lean misfire as rich.

[dave w]

i'd prove it's rich first, smell isn't enough; most people mistake the smell of a lean misfire as rich.

good point:thumbsup:

dave w

[steveo]

you know if you start running out of time, you should do what dave suggests, but using a wideband at the dyno. mess with pressure until the top half of your rpm range to be somewhere between 11.5:1 and 13.5:1 and, assuming you aren't getting a bunch of spark knock, it'll be just fine for that one event. then you can fine tune it later. it's just drifting, as long as it doesn't break up or rinse your rings it'll be fine.

[Fast355]

I can tell you first hand that 17 psi with 61# 350 injectors is less than you need for the engine to run cleanly up to 5,500 rpm. You need more like 22-24 psi and to dial back the fuel in the tune. 17 psi is only good for about 285 HP.

I could probably take a stab and get you reasonably close.

Falls on its face is probably lack of AE and lazy timing advance.

[Shawn1989]

thank you everyone for the help.

however; steveo, tunerpro LAGS like crazy on all .adx files..... 1 of them gets errors, the rest are fine but it freezes tunerpro where it renders it useless...... any workaround?


edit - works great on the dash, but the list view lags

[steveo]

that's odd. should be fastest in the list view. at least you got it reading, how about dont worry about the lag and just get a recording going so we can get a baseline of how far off your fueling is?

[Shawn1989]

A) how do I record?
b) how do you want me to run the car? Gonna throw cement bags in trunk to it can have grip.

[steveo]

how do I record?

press the record button. when you press stop it'll prompt you to save it. test it before you go for a drive, just do a 10 second log without the car even running.


how do you want me to run the car? Gonna throw cement bags in trunk to it can have grip.

your first log should be a variety of driving just so we get an idea of how your fueling is. logging with a bunch of extra weight in the car will throw off your final tune, you should tune it for how you normally drive it. if it's a drift car, some logs of you driving sideways may be a good idea anyway.

[Shawn1989]

Ok cool. Il get on that today with a very detailed description on how the car drove.

majority of the time, it just spins tires though just fyi.

now can I record with the dashboard or does it have to be list view?

edit: i tested it, saved the .xdl file.....replayed it in list view and it came out great....
so, i will do these logs:
idle - 2 minutes
rev without load [to show the bog right when i press the accelerator] - 30 seconds
normal daily driving - 5 minutes
WOT pulls 2nd-4th - maybe like 2 times
4th gear pulls: 1 25% 1 50% 1 75% 1 100%...... the 75% might blow the tires off, the 100% sure will

ill explain how the car felt, so on so fourth during each log.

does this look like good enough data for you guys to see?

[Shawn1989]

k here is cold start with idle and revs...... revs start around the 1:45ish mark..... engine stalls at the end.

upload more as the day goes by

[Shawn1989]

ok here we go. fuel pressure dialed in right around 20psi

dd is 0:00-4:30
WOT pulls 2nd to 4th begin around 4:30
4th gear at +/- 50% (45.5) is at 6:45

thank you EVERYONE so much for you help; however, the car was getting super hot and oil pressure got down to 3PSI at idle :yikes: [5w-30 with m55hv pump]

any recommendations?

in the meantime: enjoy. this is the car we are talking about :]


8176

8177


8178

[steveo]

what are your bearing clearances? the M55HV is likely an odd choice for a stock-like rebuild with a shallow pan. you have to remember that HV pumps with smallblocks are generally for (looser) racing engine clearances, and usually should have deeper oil pans.

in your case as a low drift car that probably is stuck with a shallow oil pan, you might be into cavitation city when you actually take this car to the track.

i would review your log, but it'll take a while for me to get over that spoiler of yours.

[Shawn1989]

Lol I died laughing.


Anyways
Cant remember what my builder said.
Can I run a heavier weight to compensate for it?

[steveo]

just some stuff to keep in mind

as a general rule, loose clearances like high volume pumps and thick oil. tight clearances like thinner oil and high pressure pumps.

you can mix grades of oil. if you're running 5w30, it's ok to add a bit of 20w50 to it until it does what you want.

a bit thicker oil wont hurt anything EXCEPT if you're running a weaker stock oil pump drive gear with a hv pump and thick oil something will probably break on you eventually.

something else to keep in mind is that 3psi of oil pressure at hot idle IS within factory specs for a smallblock chevy, although i wouldn't accept that on an engine that i built.

oil pressure at idle depends a lot on your tune. if you have a rough idle, the pump doesn't have constant momentum and you'll get really low jumpy oil pressure.

does the pressure come up quickly if you rev it a bit?

[Shawn1989]

You just made me feel a lot better with that post lol

the oil pressure shoots up when I give it throttle

[dave w]

I combined both logs and crunched the data logs with an Excel spreadsheet. I did not find any Closed Loop BLM in the data logs, so I don't really know if the AFR is rich or lean. I've posted screen shot of what I did find in the spreadsheet. I wonder what is happening with KNOCK?

I recommend tuning Open Loop only with a Wide Band O2.

dave w

[Shawn1989]

thanks for everything dave. i am going to get ahold of a wideband tomorrow or the day after.


I can tell you first hand that 17 psi with 61# 350 injectors is less than you need for the engine to run cleanly up to 5,500 rpm. You need more like 22-24 psi and to dial back the fuel in the tune. 17 psi is only good for about 285 HP.

285hp is what i was rated at before i rebuilt the engine and you are pretty close to it with the rebuild with vortec heads.
SO
i found the calculations if this is correct.......

http://www.dynamicefi.com/TBI_Fueling.php

330hp * .45 = 148.5 pounds of fuel per hour (#/hr)
148.5 / .85 duty cycle = 174.7 #/hr
174.7 / 2 injectors = 87.35 #/hr per injector.
SQ(87.35 / 61) * 13 = (2.05)*13 = 26.65 psi/injector

^^^that is with their bsfc.... dunno what 9.5:1-10ish:1 and vortecs would fall under..... if its .5 then the fuel pressure will need to be 32.91 ........ SO, with that being said;

does this sound about right? to me, it makes sense TO AN EXTENT. I say this because it "stutters" at WOT in the higher rpm as if its being starved of fuel.....
however, upon startup the car seems to get too much fuel.... sometimes it hesitates to start unless i feather the throttle a tad or lower fuel pressure..... SO will i have to start it with 16psi then raise it up to 27/33 after its running?

[dave w]

This link is from a video a co-worker shared with me: http://www.wired.com/2014/11/ken-block-gymkhana-7/

It's drifting related.

dave w

[Shawn1989]

Yeah I saw it first day haha.

he does crazy stuff but awd is kinda cheating :/