The "Tan Brick" aka my 1997 Express Cobra conversion

[Fast355]

This will be for the projects I am about to undertake on my Express. I have already done alot of work and improvements and have more planned.

It has a lower mileage goodwrench 350 for an 8800+ gvw truck in it. ETec 170 heads, 215/220 comp cam, doug thorley tri-ys, and an 0411 swap. I upgraded the engine to use a 454 1-ton radiator and oil cooler setup. I have also upgraded to a Duramax fan and Trailblazer SS thermal fan clutch. Using a 180*F thermostat it runs 185*F nearly constant. I upgraded the charging system to a 200amp AD244 alternator. I plan to upgrade the engine oil cooler lines to braided stainless AN lines and fittings soon as the aftermarket replacement lines seep around the quick connects.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20140910_184733_zpsdqhajtrm.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20140910_184733_zpsdqhajtrm.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20130922_192707_zpsyawh9lhf.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20130922_192707_zpsyawh9lhf.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20130920_202349_zps5vdojalf.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20130920_202349_zps5vdojalf.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20130902_194615_2_zpsrnjdfsxp.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20130902_194615_2_zpsrnjdfsxp.jpg.html)
I swapped a 4L80E and 3.73 geared GM 9.5" corporate 14-bolt under it a year ago. I put a transgo kit in it along with a nice cooler setup in series with the radiator cooler. The transmission shifts great but the pan and output shaft are leaking. When I did the 4L80E swap I had the driveshaft cut down, rebalanced and spicer solid u-joints added for peace of mind.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/Installed_zps94354112.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/Installed_zps94354112.jpg.html)

I currently have G1500 front rotors, 6 on 5.5 to 5 on 5 wheel adapters on the back and stock wheels. I had Titan 20s and 265/50R20s on it, but it was eating me in gas when I was driving it 100 miles a day and I needed new tires, so I picked up the adapters and threw a cheap pair of front rotors on it along with the old rubber sitting in my garage. I love the way it drives and rides on 20s, but my city mileage drops a solid 2-3 mpg and its not much better on the highway even. Thats with the speedo recalibrated for the gears/taller tires too. It really needs 4.10s to be happy on the taller, heavier 20s . I am about to install new 1-ton leaf springs and coil springs. Perhaps the chevy lean will disappear when I do it.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20141012_181054_zpsbucwak5b.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20141012_181054_zpsbucwak5b.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20141012_181110_zpsmlcz8nwf.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20141012_181110_zpsmlcz8nwf.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20141012_181132_zpsebeadrle.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20141012_181132_zpsebeadrle.jpg.html)

I have a few interior restoration and updates planned.

I just ordered a pair of new wiper cowls and a pair of 2008+ dual glass mirrors. I saw the mirrors on a delivery van at work and had to scoop up a pair. The mirrors on my Titan are almost identical and I love the blind spot mirrors.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/shopping_zpsaoeld9bl.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/shopping_zpsaoeld9bl.jpeg.html)

I have a 3,000 watt power inverter already installed but plan to add a pair of deep cycle batteries to the outer passenger frame rail in diesel battery trays charged through an isolator to power the accessories seperate the starting battery. My sound system is all original and will soon recieve some much needed upgrades. I also need to remove a dead alarm/remote entry/remote start system and repair the harness damage. My front door panels were made of a crappy grade of plastic and will either get fiberglassed to repair or perhaps replaced with newer express parts. I plan to order a dashmat to protect the dash from further UV damage. The tint is also starting to age and I plan to limo tint the rear of the van with a ceramic tint to block as much heat as possible.

The exterior vhynal strips are going to be erased and I am going to detail the whole van inside and out. I already restored all the lenses and they look practically new.

I will soon be gutting the 24' 1960s travel trailer I plan to pull on the many long roadtrips I have planned.

Made an order today and added to my wish list lol.

First I am finishing my quiet, heavy duty exhaust system. I am done being loud while towing. Its just not fun to tow for 5 hours non-stop listening to the 350 breathe through headers, high flow metallic core cats and hooker aerochambers.

Introduce the massive Walker 22865 "school bus" muffler. It had dual 2.5" inlets and a single 3" outlet, 36.25" long overall with a case 29.75 long and 8.38" diameter. Might hurt the power a touch but my sanity and hearing should be regained as well as less chance of having a podunk town cop pull me over for noise.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/B2B574C8-7516-4CDB-82F0-AADEC373F405-338-000002B8B1D9C128_zps6b806211.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/B2B574C8-7516-4CDB-82F0-AADEC373F405-338-000002B8B1D9C128_zps6b806211.jpg.html)

I picked up a Flowmaster 2.5" on 5.5" radius 180" bend and a Flowmaster 3" 4-piece universal tailpipe. The whole exhaust will now be mandrel bent, aluminized steel. In buying parts I found the stock system was actually 3" after each cat and exhausted through a 2.75" tailpipe. Practically impossible to find a dual 3" in, 2.75" out muffler. I chose to bring the pipe size down to 2.5 in front of the cats when I installed the headers. Just do not feel a 350 needs dual 3" pipes and frankly puzzled why GM used the setup anyway. The stock system exited the manifolds at 2", immediately stepped up to 2.75", into the monster stock cats, out of each cat into a 3" pipe and into a di/so muffler and 2.75" tailpipe. Far from a great setup IMO.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/C8FA0951-E756-436B-8989-055D93E00440-338-000002B8C04269ED_zps0225948e.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/C8FA0951-E756-436B-8989-055D93E00440-338-000002B8C04269ED_zps0225948e.jpg.html)

The junkyard 4L80E trans pan has been seeping since day 1 and finally I have decided to do something. Ordered a Mag Hy-tech 4.25" deep 4L80E pan that holds an extra 4 qts as well as an AC Delco filter kit with the good GM gasket. Also picked up a new output shaft and pitman shaft steering box seal. Bound and determined to stop any and all fluid leaks.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/325A5036-314A-4E7C-BCA1-A93ADF21133D-338-000002B8E1F464E4_zps6f1df660.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/325A5036-314A-4E7C-BCA1-A93ADF21133D-338-000002B8E1F464E4_zps6f1df660.jpg.html)

Now for the wishful thinking, matching differential cover and while the cover is open 4.10s.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/428BCC3C-B966-402F-8EC9-278AB872AC7F-338-000002B8E9530C07_zpsafb96f0a.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/428BCC3C-B966-402F-8EC9-278AB872AC7F-338-000002B8E9530C07_zpsafb96f0a.jpg.html)

[Fast355]

More of the wishlist is a Workhorse dash and cluster. I like the semitruck look and built-in dual din navigation setup.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/chevrolet_kodiak_2006_images_1_zpsvzjakrje.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/chevrolet_kodiak_2006_images_1_zpsvzjakrje.jpg.htm l)

[Nasty-Z]

Chris ,

More info on the Duramax fan and Trailblazer clutch please ?

Possible upgrade for my BBC tow rig ??

Thanks

TOM

[Fast355]

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20140910_180727_zpsvou71uw4.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20140910_180727_zpsvou71uw4.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20140910_181844_zpswy9qcutu.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20140910_181844_zpswy9qcutu.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20140910_180748_zpsjkesgciv.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20140910_180748_zpsjkesgciv.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20140910_181851_zpsa3vwr1dd.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20140910_181851_zpsa3vwr1dd.jpg.html)

[Fast355]

Not sure which year your big block is, but if it has the L31 style water pump with the smaller thread on fan clutch it will work.

I had to do a little clearance of the fan shroud but it was relatively minor. The Duramax fan is about 1" larger diameter, but the blades are much wider and steeper pitched. With the Duramax fan my A/C blows ICE cubes even at idle on a 105*F day.

You need an early model Duramax fan part# 1580690

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-806...ywords=1580690 (http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-80690-Original-Equipment-Cooling/dp/B000EQRINC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415651273&sr=8-1&keywords=1580690)

If your engine is a L29 with spin on fan you can likely use this clutch. I had Napa cross the Hayden 2851 number and bought their equivalent.

One word of warning this fan can get quite loud when the clutch kicks in (which is practically never) and you will notice atleast a 10 HP if not 15-20 HP loss when the clutch is engaged. That being said I noticed much less fan drag overall with the Duramax fan because it spins more time with the fan clutch unlocked than the stock fan setup.

If your tow pig has the old 4 bolt flange to it, might be able to use an early 6.5 turbo diesel clutch. The diesel guys are just bolting these fans onto their factory clutches.

[Nasty-Z]

Nice :rockon:

Ordered up the blade and you are correct , I use the old 4 bolt mount with a Hayden Severe duty clutch , so I will probably just swap the blade out .

Thanks for the info .

Oh , You will absolutely LOVE the Mag Hytec stuff , I run their pan ('80E) and diff cover (14BFF) on my Dually and have for years , top quality stuff.

Thanks again

TOM

[Fast355]

Messed around a bit this week and got the Express tuned up and running right and about to take it to the shop that does my exhaust work either next week or the week after. Changed all kinds of fun parts like motor mounts, the transmission mount, fuel pump, front brake hoses, rotors, pads, rebuilt the calipers with new hardware and seals and finally removed the annoyingly loud exhaust to make way for the school bus muffler next week or two.

Got a clip of it running right after a 60*F cold start after sitting for nearly 2 months.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hygrGX24-dc

[Fast355]

Finally got around to getting my exhaust setup, used the same shop I have for years. Ended up not using a few of the pieces I had bought as we found some substitutes that worked better. It is very quiet for a smallblock with long tube Tri-Y headers. I don't feel I lost any power and it runs strong all the way through the powerband.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20141230_134929_zpsztks51q8.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20141230_134929_zpsztks51q8.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20141230_134933_zpsefanmset.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20141230_134933_zpsefanmset.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20141230_134955_zpswzibdabf.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20141230_134955_zpswzibdabf.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20141230_135017_zpsahbptb8c.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20141230_135017_zpsahbptb8c.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20141230_135024_zpsvqzhrxmy.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20141230_135024_zpsvqzhrxmy.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20141230_135040_zpsxxlfanj3.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20141230_135040_zpsxxlfanj3.jpg.html)

[Fast355]

I have done some tuning for the new exhaust setup and it is drawing a bit more airflow in the low-midrange than before which frankly is surprising.

I recently added a Tow/Haul button for the 0411 and created myself a normal driving map and a "HAUL @$$" mode. The normal driving map is in the stock shift point location and locks the converter at part throttle acceleration and WOT in 2nd through 4th gears. Normal acceleration is 1-2, 2 lock, 3rd (unlock during upshift followed by immediate relock), then 4th (unlock during upshift followed by immediate relock). Under normal driving the RPM stays in the 1,000-2,500 rpm range with full throttle operating between 3,500 and 5,000 rpm. I had to slightly tweak the spark map for the additional load as the knock sensor was picking up knock in the 2,500-4,500 rpm range under load. Last tank I got 13.7 MPG all city.

Here is a WOT pull shifting at 5,000 rpm with WOT converter lockup in 2nd and 3rd.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6DZhPN7VHQ

[Fast355]

Picked up a complete 1-ton suspension including a GM 10.5" full floating 14-bolt to rebuild and swap under this van from a 1999 G3500. I got the coil springs, lower control arms, forged upper control arms, spindles, 8 lug rotors, 8600 GVW calipers, steering linkages, and sway bar. I got the leaf springs, shackles, rear-end mounting plates, and u-bolts. I also snagged the hydroboost setup. Have been ordering parts to rebuild the suspension, regear the 10.5, and install a limited slip. I am planning on running a set of 2001-2008 GM HD truck 16" wheels and 31.5" LT tires when I convert the suspension over. I relocated and rewired my trailer brake controller and added a circuit to the 7-pin to charge a "house" battery on the trailer from the vans auxiliary "house" AGM battery on the frame which charges separate of the starting battery through an isolator.

[Fast355]

Started the Hydroboost conversion after work today. It bolts in with no modifications on the Express. No cutting or drilling. Just swap the booster, pedal and master cylinder and change the resivoir and fluid hoses. My junkyard pull is filthy but the whole engine compartmemt looked like that. Leaks everywhere. Will be cleaning the booster before I install it with new hoses.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150515_210354_zpsuanaadvf.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150515_210354_zpsuanaadvf.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150515_210416_zpspbfahzdk.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150515_210416_zpspbfahzdk.jpg.html)

[1project2many]

I probably should have mentioned this before your swap. The Savana / Express HB Master Cylinder is "quick takeup" design. On our buses with 3 1/2 X 13 rear drums, several factors including this MC contribute to rear shoe overheating. We have gone a long way toward making the rear brakes on the '97-'02 buses last as long as they did on the 95 and down vehicles, and one experiment was using the older MC in the newer van. With the older cylinder the brakes apply quickly without the slow, lazy feeling that accompanies most quick takeup m/cyls. It requires a little more pedal effort but it's really not bad. Ultimately, anyone wh's driven for years appreciates the "direct" feeling provided by the older m/cyl.

Additionally, if your van has "auto adjust" built into the park brake pedal, this mechanism works to keep tension on the park brake cable so the brake is always in adjustment. We've found this can prevent shoes from retracting fully when the brake is released. We switched long ago to a park brake pedal from a '99 K30 truck (others may be the same). If you decide to pursue this change I can provide a few more details.

Finally, we've replaced the rear wheel cylinders with smaller diameter versions from a 3/4 ton van and tried to choose front pads that are a bit more agressive. This places more of the work to stop the vehicle on the front brakes. We get about 20k miles between pad swaps for these stop and go, in city vehicles. This may not seem optimal but a pad replacement can be done in 1/2 hr where a rear brake job including replacing drums can require 4 hrs or more.

Anyway, keep up the good work.

[Fast355]

I probably should have mentioned this before your swap. The Savana / Express HB Master Cylinder is "quick takeup" design. On our buses with 3 1/2 X 13 rear drums, several factors including this MC contribute to rear shoe overheating. We have gone a long way toward making the rear brakes on the '97-'02 buses last as long as they did on the 95 and down vehicles, and one experiment was using the older MC in the newer van. With the older cylinder the brakes apply quickly without the slow, lazy feeling that accompanies most quick takeup m/cyls. It requires a little more pedal effort but it's really not bad. Ultimately, anyone wh's driven for years appreciates the "direct" feeling provided by the older m/cyl.

Additionally, if your van has "auto adjust" built into the park brake pedal, this mechanism works to keep tension on the park brake cable so the brake is always in adjustment. We've found this can prevent shoes from retracting fully when the brake is released. We switched long ago to a park brake pedal from a '99 K30 truck (others may be the same). If you decide to pursue this change I can provide a few more details.

Finally, we've replaced the rear wheel cylinders with smaller diameter versions from a 3/4 ton van and tried to choose front pads that are a bit more agressive. This places more of the work to stop the vehicle on the front brakes. We get about 20k miles between pad swaps for these stop and go, in city vehicles. This may not seem optimal but a pad replacement can be done in 1/2 hr where a rear brake job including replacing drums can require 4 hrs or more.

Anyway, keep up the good work.

I appreciate the input, might end up having to talk with you on the 99' K30 pedal. I have not looked yet, but I seem to remember my parking brake pedal having a goofy contraption on top of it.

Atleast initially I will be running the Hydroboost cylinder on the 1500 brakes (8,800 gvw front calipers/pads). I am sure the larger cylinder will make the brakes feel more direct as well. I noticed on the truck sites that the GMT400 truck guys tend to upgrade to larger GMT800 master cylinders to obtain a better pedal feel. On the vacuum booster setup I was running the larger 2003+ Express master cylinder from a van that had a vacuum booster.

Are you using the wheel cylinders off the 13 x 2.5" brakes or the 11 x 3"? When I put the light duty 6 lug 3/4 ton 9.5" rear end in my Express I was able to reuse the 8.5" backing plates, brake shoes and wheel cylinders and merely changed the drums.

13 x 3.5" is what I will be running in the rear with the 10.5" 14-bolt as well.

[1project2many]

Are you using the wheel cylinders off the 13 x 2.5" brakes or the 11 x 3"? When I put the light duty 6 lug 3/4 ton 9.5" rear end in my Express I was able to reuse the 8.5" backing plates, brake shoes and wheel cylinders and merely changed the drums.

13 x 3.5" is what I will be running in the rear with the 10.5" 14-bolt as well.

Yes, the cylinders are from 13 X 2 1/2 brakes. 1 1/16" diameter cylinder. Carquest number EW79767. The original number is EW79768.

You can tell if your park brake has the auto tensioner by looking for a single flat piece of metal resting against a clear piece of plastic below the pedal arm. When you apply the brake this piece moves away from the clear plastic and creates friction to hold the drum that pulls the cable.

The full floating rear is a nice choice. If it's the one with slip on drums then the hubs are unique to that axle. The distance between the inner and outer hub bearings is smaller on the slip on axle and the wheel flange is located slightly closer to the inner wheel seal compared to most 14 bolts.

[Fast355]

Yes, the cylinders are from 13 X 2 1/2 brakes. 1 1/16" diameter cylinder. Carquest number EW79767. The original number is EW79768.

You can tell if your park brake has the auto tensioner by looking for a single flat piece of metal resting against a clear piece of plastic below the pedal arm. When you apply the brake this piece moves away from the clear plastic and creates friction to hold the drum that pulls the cable.

The full floating rear is a nice choice. If it's the one with slip on drums then the hubs are unique to that axle. The distance between the inner and outer hub bearings is smaller on the slip on axle and the wheel flange is located slightly closer to the inner wheel seal compared to most 14 bolts.

It has slip-on drums. My intentions are to run the really lightweight 16" alloy wheels from the newer HD trucks and a highway tread LT tire.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/00W0W_gKeox80kci7_600x450_zpsxidbjmm4.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/00W0W_gKeox80kci7_600x450_zpsxidbjmm4.jpeg.html)

I just got off work a little while ago and about to start installing the KYB Monomax shocks I ordered on Amazon for it.

I couldn't turn down the opportunity to jump up to the 1-ton stuff. I got the whole used suspension for $350 and only payed $300 for the 10.5". Most places I couldn't pickup the forged upper control arms and spindles for what I paid for the whole suspension. I didn't even have to touch the stuff, they took it off, brought it too the shop, unloaded it in the floor and we chained up the rear axle to my cherry picker and unloaded that massive 10.5.

[Fast355]

You can tell if your park brake has the auto tensioner by looking for a single flat piece of metal resting against a clear piece of plastic below the pedal arm. When you apply the brake this piece moves away from the clear plastic and creates friction to hold the drum that pulls the cable.

I am having a hard time telling based on your description but I snapped some pictures. Tried to get many differemt angles.


http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150517_132202_zpsneskruvl.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150517_132202_zpsneskruvl.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150517_132208_zps5zibgrj4.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150517_132208_zps5zibgrj4.jpg.html)


http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150517_132221_zpsxcgseovp.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150517_132221_zpsxcgseovp.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150517_132225_zpshybw3gj5.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150517_132225_zpshybw3gj5.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150517_132232_zpslzzsit7s.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150517_132232_zpslzzsit7s.jpg.html)

[Fast355]

I have made some progress the last couple of days.

Got the old shocks off and the new ones on.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150517_150826_zpslnzr9ack.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150517_150826_zpslnzr9ack.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150516_232843-1_zpsqhvodvtm.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150516_232843-1_zpsqhvodvtm.jpg.html)

Noticed the rear bump stop/spring thing-a-majigs were wasted.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150516_232910-1_zpsto2cv2yv.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150516_232910-1_zpsto2cv2yv.jpg.html)

Got some new ones even though I plan to ditch this rear-end around fall for the 10.5.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150518_184005_zpsaacmwhf1.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150518_184005_zpsaacmwhf1.jpg.html)

Rear suspension is looking alot better. I hope the way it drives reflects the time and money invested.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150518_220831_zpsqm2kevj7.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150518_220831_zpsqm2kevj7.jpg.html)

It seems to sit higher with the new shocks on all 4 corners.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150517_152759-1_zpsmpdn6eae.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150517_152759-1_zpsmpdn6eae.jpg.html)

I got the junkyard hydroboost pedal cleaned up, the pin is closer to the pivot on the Hydroboost pedal on the left.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150517_131958_zps28dowejh.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150517_131958_zps28dowejh.jpg.html)

I cleaned and test fit the booster and master cylinder.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150517_142040_zpsvuwtyu8j.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150517_142040_zpsvuwtyu8j.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150517_142048_zpstproeamt.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150517_142048_zpstproeamt.jpg.html)

With the right parts Hydroboost is a bolt-on swap for a G1500 Express.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150517_142105_zpsalilpkf4.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150517_142105_zpsalilpkf4.jpg.html)

My harness was a mess due to lack of space when doing the 0411 swap a few years ago. I started cleaning up that aspect of the harmess but in doing so basically am having to do the swap over again.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150518_195959_zps1krebgbq.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150518_195959_zps1krebgbq.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150518_211631_zpssrscqvtv.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150518_211631_zpssrscqvtv.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150518_215131_zps7y3b5vcu.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150518_215131_zps7y3b5vcu.jpg.html)

PCM back in the holder only have the "BLUE" side left to rework, install the hydraulic hoses, install the booster, bleed the brakes, and hope the engine starts and everything works correctly after the wiring harness work. This project has kicked my butt! Oh and I finally ordered wiper cowls and grille clips that GM wants a small fortune for.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150518_215802_zpsnvocniml.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150518_215802_zpsnvocniml.jpg.html)

[JeepsAndGuns]

You are going to love the hydroboost. I have converted my 79 cherokee and 93 wrangler and I will NEVER go back to a vac booster.

[1project2many]

9042

The lever (green arrow) is part of a spring wound around the cable take-up. The lever contacts the stop (blue arrow) when the brake pedal is released. This causes the spring to "unwind" slightly and release the take-up. The take-up is spring loaded and attempts to "wind up" the cable and take up slack. When the pedal is pressed the lever moves off the stop, the spring around the take-up contracts, and the take-up is held tight so the park brake can be applied.

[Fast355]

9042

The lever (green arrow) is part of a spring wound around the cable take-up. The lever contacts the stop (blue arrow) when the brake pedal is released. This causes the spring to "unwind" slightly and release the take-up. The take-up is spring loaded and attempts to "wind up" the cable and take up slack. When the pedal is pressed the lever moves off the stop, the spring around the take-up contracts, and the take-up is held tight so the park brake can be applied.

So it looks like I need that K30 parking brake pedal assembly and the instructions on how to make it work. The parking brake has never applied very well on this Express. In fact if you set the parking brake, put the trans in gear, at anything above idle speed the van will move with the brake set.

[Fast355]

You are going to love the hydroboost. I have converted my 79 cherokee and 93 wrangler and I will NEVER go back to a vac booster.

I KNOW!!!! I have driven these with Hydroboost and don't understand why GM cheaped out so much on these Express vans as even the same vintage Astro/Safari vans came with Hydroboost.

Then again the brainiac that is truly to blame is the idiot that felt the need to offer a 1/2 ton van as an upfitter package for a conversion van. Should have been a 2500 series as a minimum with all the extra stuff it is carrying around. The weight killed the 4L60E TWICE in 78k miles (4L65E spec rebuild went in at 38K) and the 8.5" died shortly after the 4L80E went in. Then again it gets driven a bit hard and was not exactly stock for the 4L65E spec trans and the 8.5s death. As big and heavy as these vans are, NONE of them should have had the 8.5 or the 4L60E for that matter.

[1project2many]

The G30 cable needs to be cut shorter to work with the K series pedal. On the actual cable are two crimped steel "beads." One is at the end of the cable, the second, a larger rectangular bead, is about 4" - 5" from the end. We cut the "extra" 4-5" off the end and insert the larger rectangular bead into the new pedal. Red arrow shows bead... it must be cut in half.

GMC offered "2500" vans for upfitters for years that had few observable differences from the half ton cousins.

[Fast355]

The G30 cable needs to be cut shorter to work with the K series pedal. On the actual cable are two crimped steel "beads." One is at the end of the cable, the second, a larger rectangular bead, is about 4" - 5" from the end. We cut the "extra" 4-5" off the end and insert the larger rectangular bead into the new pedal. Red arrow shows bead... it must be cut in half.

GMC offered "2500" vans for upfitters for years that had few observable differences from the half ton cousins.

Let me see if I follow. I bet the G1500 cable is the same, atleast on the pedal end. The K30 (Is this the HD truck or your normal K3500 4x4) pedal bolts right on, cut the extra off the cable by cutting that rectangular bead in half.

I know they offered those. While they are extremely rare, I have seen a couple of conversion vans on G3500 with 454s and 8100s. Most notable one I can remember was sent to Quigley first for a 4wd conversion then went to a high end conversion company. 8100 + 4x4 + Conversion and was pretty tricked out.

[Fast355]

I looked up a pedal for a 1999 K30 on Ebay, couldn't find one, but found a listing for a K3500. List to be the same pedal from 96-99 in the OBS trucks. I think I have one of these left over from the 1999 K1500 Suburban we parted out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-98-Chevy-GMC-CK-Truck-Tahoe-Yukon-Suburban-PARKING-BRAKE-PEDAL-ASSEMBLY-/161682201429?fits=Year%3A1999|Model%3AK3500&hash=item25a5029b55&vxp=mtr

[1project2many]

Sorry. I had to run off to a prior appointment.


Let me see if I follow. I bet the G1500 cable is the same, atleast on the pedal end. The K30 (Is this the HD truck or your normal K3500 4x4) pedal bolts right on, cut the extra off the cable by cutting that rectangular bead in half.
Yes. The K30 was a normal truck.


I looked up a pedal for a 1999 K30 on Ebay, couldn't find one, but found a listing for a K3500. List to be the same pedal from 96-99 in the OBS trucks. I think I have one of these left over from the 1999 K1500 Suburban we parted out.
They probably are the same in all C/K trucks in those years. We had a K30 here to borrow a pedal from on the day we were trying the first swap, so I always ordered a new pedal for that vehicle.

That 4WD conversion van sounds cool. I once found a Quigley conversion bus at a reasonable price but no matter how I tried I couldn't get upper management to go for it.

[Fast355]

Sorry. I had to run off to a prior appointment.


Yes. The K30 was a normal truck.


They probably are the same in all C/K trucks in those years. We had a K30 here to borrow a pedal from on the day we were trying the first swap, so I always ordered a new pedal for that vehicle.

That 4WD conversion van sounds cool. I once found a Quigley conversion bus at a reasonable price but no matter how I tried I couldn't get upper management to go for it.

No problem! I got busy with work as well.

It was threatening rain this evening and the mosquitos are worse. Even Deep Woods OFF was not stopping their thirst for my blood. I only managed to get the wiper cowls fitted. I found a battery terminal puller makes getting the wiper arms off a breeze.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150519_200550_zpscpty85vr.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150519_200550_zpscpty85vr.jpg.html)

[Fast355]

Finished up the wiring harness repairs at the PCM this afternoon. Ended up not labeling a wire somehow. Just pinned everything else in and tried to start the van. It started and ran, missing badly. It was luckily and injector wire and was easy to figure out.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150520_205945_zpsvgls8mrw.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150520_205945_zpsvgls8mrw.jpg.html)

PCM Harness Finished
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150520_220121_zpsfsnutzww.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150520_220121_zpsfsnutzww.jpg.html)

Booster & Master Cylinder installed
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150520_222950_zpsbmabmgdp.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150520_222950_zpsbmabmgdp.jpg.html)

At this point if the used Booster and Master cylinder function correctly all I have left is to bleed the brakes and install the hydroboost power steering hoses.

[Fast355]

Finally finished this project and it has been very worthwhile. Test drive revealed much better handling and ride. The hydroboost/larger bore 1-ton master also works so much better than the vacuum setup. I am having to learn how to brake all over again.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150521_191533_zpsp9f4f2hc.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150521_191533_zpsp9f4f2hc.jpg.html)

[JeepsAndGuns]

Hahaha, I know the feeling. When I did the swap on my wrangler, I had already converted to rear discs and larger dual piston front calipers. I had more pedal travel than stock (but not a unsafe amount) I went from the stock disc/drum 1 inch bore MC, to a 1-1/8 bore disc/disc MC and hydroboost. First time I hit the brakes I thought I was going to stand it on its nose and go through the windshield.

[Fast355]

Hahaha, I know the feeling. When I did the swap on my wrangler, I had already converted to rear discs and larger dual piston front calipers. I had more pedal travel than stock (but not a unsafe amount) I went from the stock disc/drum 1 inch bore MC, to a 1-1/8 bore disc/disc MC and hydroboost. First time I hit the brakes I thought I was going to stand it on its nose and go through the windshield.

Mine was just the opposite. My stock master was 1 1/8" or 28.57mm. I had already stepped up to a 34mm 2003+ Express 1500 master cylinder for disc/disc. With the original master cylinder the pedal was very vague and then transitioned to rock hard with about 1" of height off the floor. With the 34mm newer master cylinder the pedal response was honestly quick, maybe even too quick, but the pedal effort was very high and under panic type braking, it really felt like it had less stopping power than stock and it may very well have. Not really enough to be dangerous IMO, but enough to be noticeable. The 1996-2002 G3500 single rear wheel master cylinder is 1.25" or 31.75mm bore and setup for disc/drum. Its right in the middle of the two extremes above. Perhaps the reason it feels like the best of both worlds. The pedal response is quicker than stock, a little slower than the 03+ master, yet with the Hydroboost the pedal effort is less than it was stock. It would be very difficult to explain the difference to somebody that had not already felt the difference in their own rig. When I first hit the brakes hard, I felt like I was going to face plant the dashboard which is no small feat in a 6,200 lbs Express.

[Fast355]

I drove it again this morning on my way to work. Out of a red light, aimed toward an on-ramp, I jumped on it. I noticed the axle wrap/wheel hop has been greatly eliminated. The thing screeched the right rear tire, the G80 in the 9.5" locked, felt like it jumped up, planted itself, and took off! I kept it planted on the floor for ~1/4 mile uphill on-ramp, glanced down at the top of it and was already rolling 85 mph. It happened so quickly and smoothly, I did not even notice I was rolling along that well. Cruising down the highway on my way to work, I noticed having new wiper cowls probably cut down 50% of my wind noise at 80 mph. Honestly speaking, I can't wait to get the rebuilt 1-ton suspension, brakes and rear-end under it and get the Hellwig rear sway bar ordered.

[jim_in_dorris]

Fast, I have a 90 Astro van with hydroboost brakes. Would that unit be adequate for installing in a 1/2 ton 4x4, or should I look for a 3/4 ton or 1 ton unit out of another pickup.

[JeepsAndGuns]

Fast, I have a 90 Astro van with hydroboost brakes. Would that unit be adequate for installing in a 1/2 ton 4x4, or should I look for a 3/4 ton or 1 ton unit out of another pickup.

One of those would be perfect for a 1/2 ton. The astro van hydroboosts are a very popular swap for the fullsize jeeps (wagoneer, cherokee, J-10, etc..) Everyone who installs one loves it.

[Fast355]

Fast, I have a 90 Astro van with hydroboost brakes. Would that unit be adequate for installing in a 1/2 ton 4x4, or should I look for a 3/4 ton or 1 ton unit out of another pickup.

Those Astro/Safari vans are basically 1/2 ton truck or 2nd generation F-car like brake setups. The Astros hydroboost sits at a downward angle on the firewall. Hydroboost is commen to find in the later G-vans as well. From about 1993 to 1995 it seems nearly all the G20s and G30s used hydroboost.

[JeepsAndGuns]

The Astros hydroboost sits at a downward angle on the firewall.

Not all. Most all I see at the junkyard are straight, only a few have been angled down. Not sure if its a year range thing or what. The ones with the straight mounting plate are usually really easy to adapt to other vehicles.

[Fast355]

Not all. Most all I see at the junkyard are straight, only a few have been angled down. Not sure if its a year range thing or what. The ones with the straight mounting plate are usually really easy to adapt to other vehicles.

Weird...I only seem to see the angled ones here. I had both a 97 and a 2002 recently that had the angled ones. The old G-vans and Express vans I have seen were straight with mounting plates. Generally speaking they are all pretty easy to adapt. Especially considering you can even mount the booster itself upside down.

[jim_in_dorris]

Then I guess i will remove it before I send the van to the crusher

[JeepsAndGuns]

Weird...I only seem to see the angled ones here. I had both a 97 and a 2002 recently that had the angled ones.

Made me curious, so I did a little looking online and it looks like the 95 and older had the flat mounting plate, and the 96 and newer had the angled plate.

[Fast355]

Made me curious, so I did a little looking online and it looks like the 95 and older had the flat mounting plate, and the 96 and newer had the angled plate.

My 10 year old Autozone water pump started leaking the other day. Got it swapped out under warranty. Got a good picture of the March underdrive pulleys.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150619_214831_zpsfvvpskzp.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150619_214831_zpsfvvpskzp.jpg.html)

[Fast355]

Looking at picking up the 24x coil per cylinder conversion for this tank. I have a spare set of low mileage D585 style truck coils with the external heatsinks. I also have a spare 2003 Express van 6.0L harness to rob the coil wiring out of. Word on the street is the D585s give out 3x more spark energy than even the LS1 coils do and have dyno'd up to 10 hp over the LS1 stock coils no less the old L31s single coil distributer setup. I cannot wait to twist this thing to 6,000 rpm with great spark energy. I have seen claims of 20+ hp on a LT1 with the same setup.

[Fast355]

Well its coming back apart again, still have a coolant leak that seems to be going into #4 cylinder after my overheat last spring and the Comp cast core 215/220 cam is hammering quite nicely. Pulled the stock cam from this crate engine out of the tube it has been sealed up in since 2007 and discovered it has the numbers 7395 stamped on the end of it. Always thought the engine ran like hammered crap on the stock tune and now I know why. It had a Ramjet cam in it, explains the +10% long term fuel trims I used to see that I attributed to the MPFI spider change that was done with the engine back in 2006. I have decided for now the ETecs are coming off, my ported canadian 906s are going on and the Ramjet cam is going in.

Commission check from work just went through the bank and hit my account at midnight. I just ordered a list of parts from EFI Connection and a set of plug wires custom made for the swap from PCM of NC.

https://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemId=1337

https://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemId=1349

https://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemId=810

http://pcmofnc.com/index.php/performance-parts/product/822-pcm-of-nc-efi-connection-swap-wires

Ordered the wireset in Red and will be runing the D585 style coils with the heatsinks built on them. I am not expecting to see 18 ft/lbs average torque increase like I have seen with the LT1s (0411/LS2 coils compared to Optispark with the factory LT1 PCM and a MSD 6AL box) but I do know the L31 ignition sucks and the LSx coil per cylinder setup will ensure I am getting all the efficiency and power out of my setup that I can get. Should be a slick looking and running setup when I am done.

https://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/images/D585_Assembly.png

This is the LT1 testing claim I saw.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1111-small-block-chevrolet-ls-conversion/

[Fast355]

Very soon she is going to be pulling herself around on a fully rebuilt 1-ton G3500 8-lug suspension and 10.5" FF 14-bolt with 4.10 gears, PYO 16" alloy wheels from a 2001-2008 GM HD truck wearing Cooper Discoverer AT3 LT265/70R16 load range E tires. 4.10s and a 30.63" tall tire should work out really well. Will put me right at 2,500 RPM @ 75 and a downshift to 3rd pulling a trailer uphill will put the Ramjet cam right into its sweet spot at 3,400 rpm.

[1project2many]

You're having trouble with the L31 ignition? Maybe you've already mentioned it... Biggest problem we see is moisture in cap. Insert a hose nipple in one vent in distributor and connect to ported vacuum and problems go away. On LS powered vehicles the coils tend to fail around 150k miles. Then its chase, chase, chase after that unless you replace the set. For low cost maintenance the distributor is nice.

Ramjet / HT383 cam that I installed in the bus is working well. We're seeing much improved fuel economy. Should have switched years ago. Might install more cams this winter if we have the time. Had to spend some time with idle corrections to prevent surging but otherwise minimal changes were done. 302 in Suburban also had surging issue... again, changing spark values for idle speed correction solved problem. Suburban is providing 20+ mpg on highway when not towing. Better than our 4.3 powered '95 Blazer ever was.

I'm sure that full floating axle will be fun. Big brakes will be nice, too. One of these days I should take measurements to see if the '09+ rear disc hardware is a bolt on for the older vans.

Edit: I see the CC test replaced stock pcm with an 0411. I'm not sure I'd attribute all the gains to the ignition as they did.

[Fast355]

You're having trouble with the L31 ignition? Maybe you've already mentioned it... Biggest problem we see is moisture in cap. Insert a hose nipple in one vent in distributor and connect to ported vacuum and problems go away. On LS powered vehicles the coils tend to fail around 150k miles. Then its chase, chase, chase after that unless you replace the set. For low cost maintenance the distributor is nice.

Ramjet / HT383 cam that I installed in the bus is working well. We're seeing much improved fuel economy. Should have switched years ago. Might install more cams this winter if we have the time. Had to spend some time with idle corrections to prevent surging but otherwise minimal changes were done. 302 in Suburban also had surging issue... again, changing spark values for idle speed correction solved problem. Suburban is providing 20+ mpg on highway when not towing. Better than our 4.3 powered '95 Blazer ever was.

I'm sure that full floating axle will be fun. Big brakes will be nice, too. One of these days I should take measurements to see if the '09+ rear disc hardware is a bolt on for the older vans.

Edit: I see the CC test replaced stock pcm with an 0411. I'm not sure I'd attribute all the gains to the ignition as they did.

I vented the distributor years ago to a vacuum port I added in the throttle body just above the throttle blade. I hooked a vent hose into the TB bonnet similar to the way an opti spark is vented in later years.

I think the FF 10.5 will be great too although my guess is that it weighs 450-500 lbs with the drums on it. The 13 x 3.5" drums should be a nice upgrade. I already put tue 8600 GVW front calipers and pads on it when I put the Hydroboost and 1-ton master on it.

I totally eliminated idle spark correction with my 215-220 @ .050 cam and the idle has been rock solid. I had played with the values but the old cam really liked it just being diabled with all timing maps having the same values.

My brothers 1999 5.7 with the LT1 cam and tuned black box was also very good on fuel, especially after a set of Hooker 1 5/8" long tubes and Hooker 2.25" dual exhaust went onto it. He saw 20-22 mpg on a few roadtrips. With the 40 gallon tank in the truck on a trip we went on we went through like 3 states before we had to get gas.

Good the see the 395 Marine cam is working well for you. I never have been a fan of the factory L31 cam. I never felt it had enough duration split to work well with the factory heads.

Finally I am guess you have a ton of cracked manifolds on these buses. Have you tried the Doug Thorley Bus headers on one yet? I don't know how long you plan to keep them in service but they are $615 and they come ceramic coated and well built with 14 gauge tubes and 3/8" flanges with headpipes to bolt up to the stock 3" pipes. I now often find myself pulling uphills unloaded in Overdrive that caused me to downshift to 3rd before. With 7,500# behind it I pull in 3rd gear with my 29" tall tires and 3.73s. The torques gain and MPG increase was very noticeable after adjusting the VE and MAF tables. The heads run cooler too, allowing me to dial in a few degrees more timing across the board.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20130920_202349_zps5vdojalf.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20130920_202349_zps5vdojalf.jpg.html)

The last trailer I towed for ~250 miles was about 6,500# with an older Jeep Cherokee on it. Running 65 mph @ 2,600 rpm in 3rd gear I was able to get 14 mpg. I don't recall finding a single uphill run that caused it to downshift.I LOVE the torque.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150703_130908_zpsd1sc65fq.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150703_130908_zpsd1sc65fq.jpeg.html)

[1project2many]

I vented the distributor years ago
You know, as I read this I'm almost remembering you doing this. It sucks to get old.


my guess is that it weighs 450-500 lbs with the drums on it.
Yes. You will notice the additional mass. But no more worries about bearings chewing through axles or spiders letting go.


With the 40 gallon tank in the truck on a trip we went on we went through like 3 states before we had to get gas.
Nice. That would probably be 5 states if you were here in the northeast!

We've only seen a couple of cracked manifolds. I know it's a problem for people but I believe the combination of in-town driving, relatively low average speed, and less than full load trips keeps the heat down. I've considered headers (those sure are purdy!) but the cost including shop time to install was fairly high compared to used manifolds and I really have to watch spending for projects like that. Most of our 5.7 buses are approaching end of life. If I get three more years out of the '99 and '00 models I'll be lucky. It's a shame to let them go because we're literally throwing them away. Local scrap yard gave me $300 for a complete one last week. Dually rear, 4L80EHD, running 5.7, 0411 ecm. Two weeks ago we sent one down with no engine, trans, or other parts and they gave me $200. If only I had a place to store component parts!!

[Fast355]

You know, as I read this I'm almost remembering you doing this. It sucks to get old.


Yes. You will notice the additional mass. But no more worries about bearings chewing through axles or spiders letting go.


Nice. That would probably be 5 states if you were here in the northeast!

We've only seen a couple of cracked manifolds. I know it's a problem for people but I believe the combination of in-town driving, relatively low average speed, and less than full load trips keeps the heat down. I've considered headers (those sure are purdy!) but the cost including shop time to install was fairly high compared to used manifolds and I really have to watch spending for projects like that. Most of our 5.7 buses are approaching end of life. If I get three more years out of the '99 and '00 models I'll be lucky. It's a shame to let them go because we're literally throwing them away. Local scrap yard gave me $300 for a complete one last week. Dually rear, 4L80EHD, running 5.7, 0411 ecm. Two weeks ago we sent one down with no engine, trans, or other parts and they gave me $200. If only I had a place to store component parts!!

Rust is a pain!! The plastic trim and rubber components go the fastest here. Mine is mostly rust/rot free.

[Fast355]

New parts are here, Old parts cleaned up and they are assembled and ready for mockup.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150818_221309_zpsfxpenxwx.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150818_221309_zpsfxpenxwx.jpg.html)

[Fast355]

I also picked up a donor with a rust free and straight chassis. My Express was hit in the passenger front wheel and repaired at a young age. The frame was tweaked and stretched but it has never been right. I noticed a while back I could fit my thumb between the right front body bushing and the body!!! 303K on it runs and drives. 5.7/4L80E/3.73 GM 10.5 FF 14-bolt for $1000 with clean Texas title. The 5.7 is claimed to have about 100k on it, the 4L80E was allegidly rebuilt about 40K ago and shifts solid. I plan to hold onto it as a spare but sell the engine and all accessories and scrap the body. I plan to send the chassis to the powder coater and have it blasted and coated. I am really suprised how well it runs. It still has a completely bone stock exhaust system on it even. Nice mandrel bent dual 3" pipe to the muffler setup with the massive 1-ton cats and the weird resonator on the passenger side bank mounted before the cat.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/00c0c_gxf02pofe3z_600x450_zpsmhofu25e.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/00c0c_gxf02pofe3z_600x450_zpsmhofu25e.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/00s0s_3gLLBG6f0kk_600x450_zpsyyys9pj8.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/00s0s_3gLLBG6f0kk_600x450_zpsyyys9pj8.jpeg.html)

The body and interior is trashed but I am honestly only after the chassis which is in great shape. I also noticed 1-ton vans have a factory body lift in the body mount/bushings.

[1project2many]

Nice. I wonder how many of us there are that appreciate what you're doing with your van. Our cutaway chassis vehicles don't have any resonators. FYI if you decide to do a "Rear disk swap" to the van rear there are some special gotchas. That axle is known in the 4X4 world as "the bastard rear" because the axle length, hub depth, and bearing to bearing dimensions are different from most other 14 bolt axles.

[Fast355]

Nice. I wonder how many of us there are that appreciate what you're doing with your van. Our cutaway chassis vehicles don't have any resonators. FYI if you decide to do a "Rear disk swap" to the van rear there are some special gotchas. That axle is known in the 4X4 world as "the bastard rear" because the axle length, hub depth, and bearing to bearing dimensions are different from most other 14 bolt axles.

No idea on that one....Same idea can be applied to a pickup truck or SUV or any car for that matter.

[JeepsAndGuns]

Nice deal of the parts van. That's going to be quite the undertaking swapping the frames. How do you plan on lifting the body? I can't imagine its lightweight.

[tayto]

Nice deal of the parts van. That's going to be quite the undertaking swapping the frames. How do you plan on lifting the body? I can't imagine its lightweight.

Access to a 2 post lift with enough overhead would be quite painless. Have done a few frame/body swaps this way on a handfull of fullsized 60s cars. I thought these g-vans were unibody? I know the previous body style was.

[Fast355]

Access to a 2 post lift with enough overhead would be quite painless. Have done a few frame/body swaps this way on a handfull of fullsized 60s cars. I thought these g-vans were unibody? I know the previous body style was.

Express vans are body on frame. I actually got the donor van running today without spending a dime. No knocks, no ticks, runs smooth.

[Fast355]

Here is the reason for the 1-ton frame.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150826_095953_zpsd2s4lphd.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150826_095953_zpsd2s4lphd.jpg.html)

[Fast355]

The frame donor fading fast!

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150826_092752_zpswtpjqgpn.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150826_092752_zpswtpjqgpn.jpg.html)

[Fast355]

Work on the chassis donor is progressing. Sold my spare 4L80E for $450. Up about $700 of the $1100 I spent on the van and getting the van to me. Still have a running L31 and a ton of small parts to get rid of.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150920_155840_zpsjanhj4pm.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150920_155840_zpsjanhj4pm.jpg.html)


I am looking at picking up a new engine this week. 80K miles on this dirty junkyard pull. Its out of a 2001 Express cutaway that was a party limo van. I am guessing the hours are pretty low too as all the harness loom is still in place. The yard wants $1000 for it. A bit steep but 8.1L Express engines don't pop up often, especially low mileage.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150921_103416_zpsiqxbjgb2.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150921_103416_zpsiqxbjgb2.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150921_103430_zpsnaqwb3kw.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150921_103430_zpsnaqwb3kw.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150921_103510_zpsinbi3trl.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150921_103510_zpsinbi3trl.jpg.html)

I am thinking of running it on a modified 2006 6.0L Express tune, Harness, PCM, and TAC.

[Nasty-Z]

Interested in shipping the L31 ? P/M me if so , might be Interested.

Good find on the 8.1 , I have a few , seems not many really want them up here , nor do they realize their potential .

TOM

[Fast355]

Interested in shipping the L31 ? P/M me if so , might be Interested.

Good find on the 8.1 , I have a few , seems not many really want them up here , nor do they realize their potential .

TOM

I sent you a message. I am hoping I can acquire the 8.1 before it sales. I found a $548.00 check in my mailbox today when I got home. Refund after refinancing my car with a new bank. Really made my day because I thought the paperwork for the transition was accurate. I am hoping I can ditch the 2nd A/C compressor easily. If you notice in the 1st picture it has a Sanden style compressor mounted backwards under and in front of the main compressor.

Should be a monster of a tow vehicle with the 1-ton chassis, 4.10s, and Tuned 8100!

If I can get the 8.1, the Marine Intake/Marine cammed L31 from my Van is going into my boat. 0411along with Coil per Cylinder and all.

[Fast355]

I now own an 8.1, picking it up tomorrow.

[Nasty-Z]

I now own an 8.1, picking it up tomorrow.

NICE :rockon:

TOM

[1project2many]

Wow. That's a helluva find. What is the lowest numerical ratio available for the 14 bolt? I'd be looking to gear that thing for 1500 RPM on the highway. Maybe it's time to step up to a 6L90E to gain the extra gear reduction?


Gear 6L90 Ratio 4L80 Ratio
1 4.027 2.48
2 2.364 1.48
3 1.532 1.00
4 1.152 0.75
5 0.852
6 0.667
R 3.064 2.07


2nd compressor is usually aftermarket and can be removed. We have several buses with dual A/C (but nothing with 8.1). All sorts of mischief with dual a/c systems, like belt only available from A/C company at $100 each, and modified belt routing, and idler pulleys not available from anyone. Carier was big designer of systems for years but has now been bought and name changed to MCC. From my vantage they don't have anywhere near the parts or support network anymore. Other players stepping up and trying to fill voids but parts fitment and application is still a challenge. I've got a 250A, $1000 alternator here that was designed to work with a dual a/c and custom alternator bracket on a Ford. It doesn't fit anything else but I'm surely not throwing it away after spending that much $$ on it. I'll fabricate a bracket for something.

[Nasty-Z]

3.42 is the highest (Numerically lowest) gear available for the 14FF

How about an Allison 1000 series and keep the 4.10's ? Works fantastic in my 8.1/Allison 2001 3500 Dually :happy:

Allison 1000 Ratios

1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
6th*
R


3.094
1.809
1.406
1.00
0.711
0.614
4.480


* 6 speed available 2006-up but it is a retrofit to earlier models.

TOM

[Fast355]

3.42 is the highest (Numerically lowest) gear available for the 14FF

How about an Allison 1000 series and keep the 4.10's ? Works fantastic in my 8.1/Allison 2001 3500 Dually :happy:

Allison 1000 Ratios

1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
6th*
R


3.094
1.809
1.406
1.00
0.711
0.614
4.480


* 6 speed available 2006-up but it is a retrofit to earlier models.

TOM

I just don't want the added power loss!! My 4L80E already has the dual stator 4.3 converter that stalls 2,300 rpm behind the 350. The 10.5" FF I have has 3.73s in it. I want 4.10s in the back but a good comprimise might also be a 2.96 first gear planetary set in the 80E.

[Fast355]

On a side note I have a line on an entire cam/valvetrain from a very low hour 425 HP 496 Mag Mercruiser for $300 that was given the Raylar treatment. Cam/Lifters/Pushrods/Guides/Studs/Rockers and double roller timing set. The cam and matching tune is worth 50 HP in the 375 HP Marine version of the 8.1 making it the 425 HP HO. I am sure the rest of the gain over the 340 HP truck version is exhaust/intake/tune/loss of the mechanical fan. The cam does its thing under 5,000 rpm as well and has a nice sounding idle.

[Fast355]

I did a little more research and decided what the heck and ordered the cam. Might be a shade big for many heavy haulers, but my Express is fairly light compared to a Dually or a Workhorse. Seems the cam is Mid 220s @ .050 on the intake, mid 230s @ .050 on the exhaust, .510/.510" lift and cut on a 114* LSA opposed to the stock 118* LSA big block cam. For $360.00 shipped for the whole take-out cam kit, it is hard to turn down. 425 HP 496 mag reaches 425 HP before it reaches 5,000 rpm.

[Nasty-Z]

I did a little more research and decided what the heck and ordered the cam. Might be a shade big for many heavy haulers, but my Express is fairly light compared to a Dually or a Workhorse. Seems the cam is Mid 220s @ .050 on the intake, mid 230s @ .050 on the exhaust, .510/.510" lift and cut on a 114* LSA opposed to the stock 118* LSA big block cam. For $360.00 shipped for the whole take-out cam kit, it is hard to turn down. 425 HP 496 mag reaches 425 HP before it reaches 5,000 rpm.

You will like that cam setup , I have used a few , been playing with the 8.1 for a while now and it is a very good swap and power increase for an upgrade. Ray and Larry offer great parts and reasonable (for what they are) prices , problem is its hard to justify all that $$ for a tow pig I suppose , but I did it for the '01 . The 8.1 is IMHO the most underrated gas engine recently , surprised more aftermarket support is not out there , but then again maybe I'm not surprised.....


I just don't want the added power loss!! My 4L80E already has the dual stator 4.3 converter that stalls 2,300 rpm behind the 350. The 10.5" FF I have has 3.73s in it. I want 4.10s in the back but a good comprimise might also be a 2.96 first gear planetary set in the 80E.

Understood. :rockon:


Good luck Chris , I'm sure it'll be a cool ride.

TOM

[Fast355]

You will like that cam setup , I have used a few , been playing with the 8.1 for a while now and it is a very good swap and power increase for an upgrade. Ray and Larry offer great parts and reasonable (for what they are) prices , problem is its hard to justify all that $$ for a tow pig I suppose , but I did it for the '01 . The 8.1 is IMHO the most underrated gas engine recently , surprised more aftermarket support is not out there , but then again maybe I'm not surprised.....



Understood. :rockon:


Good luck Chris , I'm sure it'll be a cool ride.

TOM

Thanks Tom!

I may get a set of the Raylar roller rockers somewhere down the road.

I also believe it is an underated engine and I can't wait to have it running.

Here is what I found for the cam.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/_1_zpslq7kmlcw.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/_1_zpslq7kmlcw.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/_3-5_zpsxgi0qq4x.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/_3-5_zpsxgi0qq4x.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/_3-6_zpsavows4s5.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/_3-6_zpsavows4s5.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/_3-7_zpsaeu2didn.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/_3-7_zpsaeu2didn.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/_3-8_zpslqi5q0kh.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/_3-8_zpslqi5q0kh.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/_3-9_zpskzauw68u.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/_3-9_zpskzauw68u.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/_3-10_zpsdjvlworn.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/_3-10_zpsdjvlworn.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/_3-14_zpsvafcxdxw.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/_3-14_zpsvafcxdxw.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/_3-20_zpsnawqfsiv.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/_3-20_zpsnawqfsiv.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/_3-19_zpsfrqg3wnr.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/_3-19_zpsfrqg3wnr.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/_3-13_zpshi0a0kc8.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/_3-13_zpshi0a0kc8.jpeg.html)

If it is as described and all servicable I will be very happy!

[Fast355]

I pressure washed the 8.1 today and popped it open. It was all factory down to the plugs. I about panicked when I saw how much oil it had been burning that is until I discovered the source. The intake gaskets were DONE and it was pulling oil into the intake runners at the intake gaskets. 6 of the 8 ports were soaked with oil. I am going to go ahead and pull it completely down and may do rings and bearings as well.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150927_183117_zps1imriawf.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150927_183117_zps1imriawf.jpg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20150927_183127_zpsrlnjab7m.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20150927_183127_zpsrlnjab7m.jpg.html)

[JeepsAndGuns]

Is that normal for such a low mileage chevy engine?

[Fast355]

Is that normal for such a low mileage chevy engine?

I am starting to think so!!! The L31 in my 1997 Express rolled down the assembly line with died in 2004 at 57K miles due to hydrolock on startup breaking a rod and sending it through the side of the block at the oil pan rail. Intake gaskets were trash on that engine. 7 yrs old with only 57k miles. Saving grace of the 8.1 is the fact it does not have any water passageways in the intake.

[1project2many]

I think it has to do with time exposed to oil or coolant, not necessarily mileage. The silicone imprinted seals in the gaskets swell and split. Fel-pro makes a nice gasket for the L31 but I don't know if they have one for the LS engines.

[Fast355]

I think it has to do with time exposed to oil or coolant, not necessarily mileage. The silicone imprinted seals in the gaskets swell and split. Fel-pro makes a nice gasket for the L31 but I don't know if they have one for the LS engines.

I am confused! Not working with a LS1 here maybe someone else is though. I am working with the 8100 aka 496 big block which is a different animal. GM has a TSB to replace intake bolts and a revised gasket part number.

[1project2many]

My bad. I was distracted by a call and didn't catch what I'd typed. No magic Felpro gaskets for the 8.1.

[Nasty-Z]

There was a mid year change in 2004 for intake gaskets on these engines , don't know if you have seen the TSB on this or not Chris, but it is below , Intake gaskets on the early 8.1's were problematic .

Condition/Concern:
Higher than expected oil consumption even after the intake bolts (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPYG9Y) were replaced per Bulletin 02-06-01-035.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Since this type of engine may be used under various load conditions, the acceptable rate of oil consumption is 1 quart (.946L) of oil every 100 gallons (379L) of gasoline. If the intake bolts (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPYG9Y) were replaced per 02-06-01-035 and the excessive oil consumption still exists, replace the intake gaskets with part number 89017539. Use current SI instructions for intake gasket replacement and torque procedures.

Mid year 2004 changes to the cylinder head and intake gaskets were made, making a more robust seal between the cylinder head (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=cylinder+head) and the intake manifold. Early 2004 8.1L engines will accept the updated gaskets (http://www.amazon.com/gp/search?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=automotive&keywords=gaskets&linkCode=ur2) discussed in this PI, 89017539. The late 2004 8.1L engines that have the updated head and intake gaskets do not require a updated gasket. The differences in the engine are as follows.

2001 to 2004 1/2 8.1L L18 engines will accept the gasket Part Number 89017539.

These engines can be identified by inspecting the intake bolts (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPYG9Y) or the intake gasket.

• The intake manifold bolts will be silver in color and measure 65mm long.


• The intake gasket (http://www.amazon.com/gp/search?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=automotive&keywords=intake%2Bgasket&linkCode=ur2) will be flat with no type of locator that engage to the cylinder head


2004 1/2 to current 8.1L L18 engines will not accept gasket Part Number 89017539.

These engines can also be identified by inspecting the intake bolts (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPYG9Y) or the intake gasket

• The intake manifold bolts are black in color and measure 72mm long.


• The intake gaskets (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B010D0NZ8A) are stamped seal with locating Dowels that fit into the counter bored bolt holes in the cylinder head (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=cylinder+head) for the intake bolts.


• Due to the more robust intake seal be sure to complete normal oil consumption testing. If oil consumption is excessive (more then 1 quart (.946L) of oil every 100 gallons (379L) of gasoline), complete SI diagnostics for oil consumption


• If a intake gasket is found to be leaking, use the most current parts catalog listings.


Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.




I use the metal / rubber gaskets on all of the ones I have assembled , found they work better than the originals .

HTH

TOM

[Fast355]

Thanks for the info Tom!!

I found the old saved files from the older GM Powertrain information I had saved on these engines. Including these GM Marine power charts. The 375 HP engine used the factory truck cam and achieved its power with a freer flowing intake and exhaust and a different rating system. The 425 hp used a hotter cam and in some years a forged crank. The forged crank was later dropped. The factory light duty truck/van/SUV engines are 340 HP and 455 TQ. What that tells me is with the intake/shorty headers, exhaust and tuning this 8.1 should be getting close to the 400 Net HP and 475 Net TQ range. That is approaching direct injected 11:1 compression 6.2 HP levels without reving as high, without a cam phaser or direct injection.

375 HP
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/2015-09-27-09-00-22_zpsqx6wrd8i.png (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/2015-09-27-09-00-22_zpsqx6wrd8i.png.html)

420 HP (Mercruiser 425 HP) I love how the TQ curve starts over 400 ft/lbs down near 1,000 rpm and it hangs over 400 ft/lbs even up at the 5,200 rpm redline. Downshifting into 2nd accelerating to pass should be a breeze compared to the stock truck cam.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/2015-09-27-08-51-43_zps2utaqdse.png (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/2015-09-27-08-51-43_zps2utaqdse.png.html)

[Fast355]

So I have a few snags to overcome such as rebuilding the dog house area, a new doghouse/engine access cover and finding a frame to motor mount bracket all of which have been discontinued.

I am going to have to cut the firewall and floor to put in the floor section of a 6.5 or 8.1 van.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/2015-10-02-20-03-13_zps49sfzpwu.png (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/2015-10-02-20-03-13_zps49sfzpwu.png.html)
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/1500D_zpsagcyilha.jpeg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/1500D_zpsagcyilha.jpeg.html)

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/2015-10-02-20-00-46_zpsaxhldblw.png (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/2015-10-02-20-00-46_zpsaxhldblw.png.html)

I really don't understand why GM didn't just use the larger doghouse and opening for ALL vans. Would have made things like plug changes, exhaust manifold work and intake work MUCH easier. Especially with the big blocks 4" rearward mounting location.

[Fast355]

Finally have it dialed in pretty well. Its cool, dry and windy. Was running in my normal testing area but into a bit of a headwind (~15-20 mph out of the North). When I let off around 80-85 mph it had the 100+ mph wind tunnel sound too it. I need to get a video when the wind is calmer for comparison purposes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7P8rDokWges

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtn58oN-snM

[Fast355]

Had a chance to mess with it a bit more today, then put some E85 in the tank. This was on 93 octane and it pulled nearly 5° of timing on this run!!! After adding 26 gallons of E85 and reflashing the PCM with the correct Stoich value I was still seeing tons of knock retard. Banging my head I took some SeaFoam with a HOT engine and ran it through the vacuum hose that ties into the PCV port. I use a vaccum "T" with one leg open as a vent and one in the SeaFoam. Near the end of the can I tried to stall it by putting my finger over the vent side to pull in more. At the same time I cut the key. The engine actually tried to diesel on the stuff. I let the engine sit for a good hour before trying to start it again. After a little cranking with my foot on the throttle it came to life and blew out a monster smoke cloud. I took it for a 10 minute drive and beat the ever living snot out of it. Finally went back to the shop with a hot engine again and did the same with a quart of distilled water. I took it out and drove it again. NO KNOCK RETARD on 31° of advance and a quick advance curve and it absolutely flies now.

This was on 93 before I messed with it!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpPSgILR6wc

[Fast355]

Well it is time to pull this old pig apart yet again. I pulled the old L31 and opened it up to fix an oiling issue about 6 months ago. I put a Lunati Bare Bones 218/228 cam in it. I failed to notice the spring pressure Lunati recomended and ended up floating valves and scoring a couple of cam lobes and trashed some LS7 lifters. About to order another GM Performance parts cam. Going with the cam in the 357 HP 350 engine. Basically it is a Hotcam revised to work in a stock L31 long block. 215/223 @ .050 roller with .473/.473" lift. Running the GM 330HP HO intake and a set of headers it is rated at 357 Hp @ 5,500 and 407 TQ @ 4,000, looks to make about 400 TQ @ 3,000 according to the advertised GM dyno chart.

The oiling issue was the use of a 5qt pan with a 4 qt pan windage tray. Ended up going to a 7qt Moroso pan and a big block oil pump with matching Moroso oil pickup. 40 psi idle, 70 psi hot at crusing speed. Yea its overkill but it seems to work well.

It may end up with TPI on it this time around. I have an Edelbrock Vortec TPI base, fuel rail modified for rear feed and return, and siamesed SLP runners with a fully ported plenum and LT1 throttle body. I also have an accessory setup from a 1995 TBI G-van that looks like it will work in the Express van with an Astro van a/c hose setup if I go that route.

[Fast355]

Been at this old Express van again. Swapped a 5.13 re-geared 10.5" full floating 14-bolt under it. 1 ton springs. 1 ton front control arms and knuckles up front. All the 1-ton brake parts. Pulled the L31 out of it. Sitting on the stand now. Built a set of 205cc Assault Racing aluminum heads for the future 396 small block. Currently putting those heads on a stock bottem end 5.7. Adding 1.7 roller rockers on them. Should be in the 440 hp range when I am done. Need to get a picture of it now that the suspension is all 1-ton but I have one as a bit of a 1500/3500 hybrid, lol.

I ended up with the 205cc heads because my 60cc milled Etec170s ended up on the 305 in the Tahoe after finding a crack in one of the heads on it. Got that engine running great again (around 330 hp/350tq) and smoked the 130k mile 4L60E within a few weeks. Work on modified stuff never seems to stop.

[Fast355]

Been on vacation this week from work. I got the engine in last night and buttoned up today and fired up a few hours ago. I bumped the WOT shift speeds to 6,200 and left the old tune in place. Drove it around a bit. Its actually running a bit rich. At 11:1 afr and only 30° of timing, all I can say is HOLY SMOKES!!! 205cc intake ports on a 350 Vortec with a ported marine intake and a small cam runs like a bat out of hades! I wrapped the headers this time around and it made a tremendous difference in engine compartmemt heat. I need to burn out the nearly year old gas in the tank and do some fine tuning but I am already grinning. Also reminded of how well the a/c in this beast works :) Gotta say at 6,200 it PEGS the 80 psi oil pressure gauge, lol!

[Fast355]

Still have this pig and it now has an 11:1 383 in it. Just upgraded the cam from a 218/228 on a 110 lsa to a 232/244 on a 108 LSA. Waiting on the 1200 cfm 4bbl throttle body to go on the marine dual plane MPI intake I run. Also still waiting on the Camaro crossfire throttle cable that is the correct length and carb style end. Will have to grind the firewall opening square to fit it. I picked up the FAST 4150 throttle bracket kit and turned it with the cables pointing toward the passenger front. Going back to DBC. Mocked up the spectre 4" inlet carb plenum elbow on a carb yesterday. Should be in the 550 hp range when it is all back together and tuned. Also mocked up my 4" intake and 100mm MAF on the plenum yesterday afternoon. The plenum sits further forward and I will have to trim the silicone couplers some to squeeze it all back into place. Hoping to get it cranked up and start tuning on it this weekend. When the 383 went in I installed a re-stalled and strengthened B82 converter. Should stall around 2,800 behind the 383 with the new cam. The cam has an advertised power band of 2,800-6,000 rpm. The Rhoads V-Max lifters I am running should knock 1,000 rpm off the bottom number without hurting the top-end charge.

[woody80z28]

I've read bits and pieces about your G-vans for years...but this is first thread I've seen. haha

What kind of heads on the 383? It sounds pretty similar to the one going in my Camaro.

[Fast355]

I've read bits and pieces about your G-vans for years...but this is first thread I've seen. haha

What kind of heads on the 383? It sounds pretty similar to the one going in my Camaro.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?7701-LLoyd-Elliot-Ported-Assault-Racing-205cc-heads

[dfarr67]

Another question- perhaps answered somewhere else, what do you see as a high value w good efficiency (regardless of dollars spent) torque converter supplier for a 4L60E 2200-2400 stall, 383 non oem tuned port 350rwhp/400tq?

[Fast355]

Ended up going back to a ported stock intake with an AUS 48 lb/hr spider. Put the smaller cam back in a while back too. Just changed out the muffler and tailpipe. Dual 3" in Walker quiet flow muffler and matching 4" tailpipe for an 01-06 3500 HD with a 6.0L or 8.1L fit my van like it was made for it. To me it is very quiet for a 500 hp engine and a bit of a sleeper now.

https://youtu.be/zJBiw3xkiYY

https://youtube.com/shorts/bq8CAvqnubU?feature=share

I also swapped a P59 Green/Blue into it a while back. First fireup after the 383 went back in on the Mexican 2005 L31 GMT800 file base tune with injector size, displacement and MAF edited. Had to do a good bit more tuning. Torque management was pulling a ton of timing out of it. Open headers so it is nice and crackley.

https://youtu.be/FzEDpuSIwJc

Idling with a 4" MAF.
https://youtu.be/iEn1Ht6Ta-s

Testing the 6,200 rpm rev limit open cutouts.
https://youtu.be/J4v4Z9rAKio