Project MULE - 350 Vortec Tuned Port Injection build on 91 Suburban.

[pma4x4]

(UPDATED 07-05-2014)

We have found out our Suburban (as great as it is) is just out of power when loaded down and hitting the hills.
We decided to go with a SBC just due to the fact I found one real cheap and I don’t have to switch much of anything on the truck. Other engine ideas were explored, 5.3, 6.0 7.4 vortec and even the 8.1. The deals I ended up with for the main parts of this project just said “SBC”.

Below is the initial list of parts. I have already spoke with Compcams and TPIS. With all the info and weights I had Compcams recommended the cam in the list below. I have been doing some serious research even picked up a few reference books. Now this is not my first time building a motor but it is my first time building (per-say) a fuel injection system. If you see something wrong or I am missing please don’t flame me as this is my first initial list of something new. Input is always welcome.

Engine short block: 99 5.7 Vortec
Heads: EQ CH350C Vortec Heads (with pre-'87 intake bolt pattern)
Cam: compcams XR264HR #8-501-08
GMPP Roller lifters #12499225
Chevrolet Performance Timing Chain Sets 12371043
Est 9.5:1 CR
90-92 Tuned Port Injection
Stock runners
Stock TB
Stock Corvette (Pre '87) TPI intake
24lb blue top injectors
BBK Adjustable fuel psi regulator #BBK-1714
Speed density setup
1227730 ECM
All new sensors.

Other stuff
ALDLdorid app
Tunerpro on the laptop
1320 Electronics ALDL Blutooth transmitter

I have read some stuff here on the forums and I would really like to avoid having to write cusom .BIN files like I have seen here. As much as I know I need to get it running. Data log with Tunerpro send that info off to someone and they will burn a proper EPROM.

[Fast355]

We have found out our Suburban (as great as it is) is just out of power when loaded down and hitting the hills.
We decided to go with a SBC just due to the fact I found one real cheap and I don’t have to switch much of anything on the truck. Other engine ideas were explored, 5.3, 6.0 7.4 vortec and even the 8.1. The deals I ended up with for the main parts of this project just said “SBC”.

Below is the initial list of parts. I have already spoke with Compcams and TPIS. With all the info and weights I had Compcams recommended the cam in the list below. I have been doing some serious research even picked up a few reference books. Now this is not my first time building a motor but it is my first time building (per-say) a fuel injection system. If you see something wrong or I am missing please don’t flame me as this is my first initial list of something new. Input is always welcome.

Engine short block: 99 5.7 Vortec
Heads: ‘ 99 L31 heads with valve springs redone to .520”lift provided heads are good.
Cam: compcams XR264HR #8-501-08
GMPP Roller lifters #12499225
Melling double roller timing chain
Est 9.5:1 CR
’89 Tuned Port Injection
Stock runners
Stock TB
Scoggin dickey TPI Vortec intake #SD3816
24lb blue top injectors
BBK Adjustable fuel psi regulator #BBK-1714
MAF Sensor
1227165 ECM
New stand alone harness from Howell EFI
All new sensors.

Other stuff
ALDLdorid app
Tunerpro on the laptop
Red River ALDL Blutooth transmitter

I have read some stuff here on the forums and I would really like to avoid having to write cusom .BIN files like I have seen here. As much as I know I need to get it running. Data log with Tunerpro send that info off to someone and they will burn a proper EPROM.


IMO since you have a computer controlled automatic and a vortec engine already, stick with OBD2 and upgrade to the 0411.

Your factory accessory brackets will not work with TPI without modification.

[pma4x4]

I have the last year of a non computer 700R4. 1991 was an overlap, the 2wd 454s saw the first year of the 4L80E. I know I will have to find new brackets. The vortec spider FI is already missing parts. and I am plus money in the pocket for the TPI stuff.

[Fast355]

I have the last year of a non computer 700R4. 1991 was an overlap, the 2wd 454s saw the first year of the 4L80E. I know I will have to find new brackets. The vortec spider FI is already missing parts. and I am plus money in the pocket for the TPI stuff.

My mistake, reading your post, I thought the truck was a 99 Suburban. Makes more sense now. Not sure why you want the junky 165' MAF system on the truck. I have messed with them in the past and the 7730 MAP based system is worlds above the MAF setup in tuneability and driveability. The MAF systems are plagued with problems from burn-off relays to an out of production MAF that is troublesome at best.

[pma4x4]

Everything I have read says the MAF is a better option (but more expensive). It can offer better mileage since it reads more accurately and is more forgiving when using larger cams and vacuum changes. The MAPs seem very sensitive and picky.

I know ECMs are not expensive, the 7165 is just what I ended up with in the whole deal.

[Fast355]

I can however tell you first hand I had a similar build (ported vortecs with 2.05/1.60" valves and doug thorley tri-ys) and it pulled my 1983 G20 conversion van around with authority. My G20 had 3.08 gears, factory G80 locker, and the stock 1,600 rpm torque converter. Flooring it from a dead stop, would smoke the 295s all the way through first gear.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/TPI5.jpg

[Fast355]

Everything I have read says the MAF is a better option (but more expensive). It can offer better mileage since it reads more accurately and is more forgiving when using larger cams and vacuum changes. The MAPs seem very sensitive and picky.

I know ECMs are not expensive, the 7165 is just what I ended up with in the whole deal.

Definately the opposite with the TPI. I was regularly getting 21-23 mpg in the G20 with lean cruise enabled at 16:1 air/fuel ratio and had no power sacrifice. At 70-80 mph as soon as I rolled on the throttle and put a load on the motor it would come alive and accelerate. I was running S-AUJPv4 which had provisions for a wideband input, a/c clutch control and dual e-fan control.


You could run the Austrailian MAP 165 code from the old Holden 5.0 cars in your 165 ECM.

[pma4x4]

Well I dont have either MAF or MAP sensors yet nor have I ordered the harness yet so this is still up in the air. This is just what I am looking for real world info! What cam were you using in that.

[EagleMark]

Everything I have read says the MAF is a better option (but more expensive). It can offer better mileage since it reads more accurately and is more forgiving when using larger cams and vacuum changes. The MAPs seem very sensitive and picky.

I know ECMs are not expensive, the 7165 is just what I ended up with in the whole deal.MAF of today that may be true, not the MAF sensor and computer control of yesterday your talking about using.

I'd never swap anything to a 7165... and if I had one it'd be the first thing to change!

Now recently I've learned that the Australians have a new mask made for the 7165 titled $12P but I don't know enough about it to advise...

[pma4x4]

ok, so general consensus is to change to a MAP sensor and the 7730 ECM?

[pma4x4]

I will admit that a couple fo the articles I was reading was done in the late 90s when the vortecs just came out so it is 15 year old info alone.

[Fast355]

Mark,

$12P IS GREAT!!! I have had first hand experience tuning it on a 5.7 that was swapped with a GM 846 cam, vortecs and stealth ram intake.

http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=356

[pma4x4]

I consider myself pretty good with PCs, building electronics, soldering, heck I sell Automotive electronics. but when you guys start talking .BINs and $12p stuff all I see is greek! :rolleye: I'm not afraid to try new stuff but I would like to have this as plug n play as possible.

[Fast355]

Well I dont have either MAF or MAP sensors yet nor have I ordered the harness yet so this is still up in the air. This is just what I am looking for real world info! What cam were you using in that.

First cam was a production LT4 corvette. 282/277 @ .004, 203/210 @ .050, .476/.479, 115* LSA, 116* ICL. The second was a custom grind from Reed 260/264* @ .008, 208/212 @ .050, .480/.507" lift w 1.6:1 rockers, 112* LSA, 108* ICL. They both ran very well. The Reed made more torque, the LT4 seemed to make more HP.

[pma4x4]

This is the one I have picked out so far.

7322

[BLG355]

This is the one I have picked out so far.



This is one of the cams I considered when doing my build. It'll be a nice upgrade over stock.

BLG

[lionelhutz]

The reason you read those kind of comments is because people thought those old MAF systems didn't need as much tuning as a MAP system because it measures the airflow. Both need tuning to work well once the engine changes. So, tune the MAP system for the engine and you're good.

Personally, I just couldn't bring myself to dump $400 on a TPI base so I can adapt the TPI system designed to for 305's onto my 350 engine. I'd rather try something like a Weiand Stealth Ram.

Most everything wiring-wise already exists to run a MAP based system on your current harness. You'd probably need to re-pin the ECM connectors, lengthen/shorten some wires under the hood and split the TBI wires into 8 injector wires. I just couldn't see myself paying $500 for a harness that duplicates 80% of what I already have. Also, wouldn't you want a harness that integrates into the truck, using the power feeds, brake switch, VSS wiring etc that already exists under the dash?

[Fast355]

The reason you read those kind of comments is because people thought those old MAF systems didn't need as much tuning as a MAP system because it measures the airflow. Both need tuning to work well once the engine changes. So, tune the MAP system for the engine and you're good.

Personally, I just couldn't bring myself to dump $400 on a TPI base so I can adapt the TPI system designed to for 305's onto my 350 engine. I'd rather try something like a Weiand Stealth Ram.

Most everything wiring-wise already exists to run a MAP based system on your current harness. You'd probably need to re-pin the ECM connectors, lengthen/shorten some wires under the hood and split the TBI wires into 8 injector wires. I just couldn't see myself paying $500 for a harness that duplicates 80% of what I already have. Also, wouldn't you want a harness that integrates into the truck, using the power feeds, brake switch, VSS wiring etc that already exists under the dash?

A pair of SLP or ASM oversize TPI runners will fix the airflow issue with a 350. Otherwise the stock runners will give the 350 about the same peak torque as a 383+ CID small block. In a heavy truck where mid-range torque drags it uphill and up to speed on freeway onramps it can't be beat.

[pma4x4]

Granted the TPI to Vortec intake is a chunk but I just would prefer to buy it and be done and know it works and wont leak or have to worry about adding aluminum or screwing up the re-dill on the heads.. The harness I don't have a problem paying 4-500 for. Why use a 30 year old harness with bad if not busted connectors, frail stiff wiring with possible broken wires inside the insulation from all those years of heat and having to spend a lot of time figure it out. You could be chasing wiring issues for months. I tell them which connectors I need and they have them ready for VSS and brake switch etc. They even come with their own CEL. Their own power wires and stand alone fuses. that way you don't have to rip stuff apart.

Used Harnesses are a crap shoot. This last harness I picked up the guy swore it was a complete harness and everything tagged. Uhm yeah no. still clipped wires and bad connectors. I got lucky on this last one being I only spent $40 and got the harness, ECM and full TPI to boot so I am not out squat. I see a lot of people wanting $100 for these old things.

The MAF thing weren't comments they were full articles from Superchevy and Hotrodders magazines and alike but they are dated late 90s and early 2000s. so technology has changed. I did look at the Stealth ram but it still has added costs $400 for the intake and another 270 for the fuel rails. Plus the Stealth is more for hi revvers. Those short runners will kill my bottom end which is all I am hunting for.

This rig is being purpose built as we plan a trip to Alaska and the Yukon for 3 months in it and then a few years after that a 2 year trip around North America so I have no problem spending a bit more to get new parts with better quality.

[pma4x4]

Start of the whole thing

7326 7327 7328 7324 7329 7325

[pma4x4]

MAF of today that may be true, not the MAF sensor and computer control of yesterday your talking about using.

I'd never swap anything to a 7165... and if I had one it'd be the first thing to change!

Now recently I've learned that the Australians have a new mask made for the 7165 titled $12P but I don't know enough about it to advise...

If a MAF sensor (the newer ones) can in fact provide a better calculations for air and offer up better MPG with a more friendlier "attitude" towards cams and such why are they not being used? Can they nor be implemented into these older systems?

Im not sayin MAP bites I am just trying to learn and figure out the reasoning before I move to a 7730 setup.

[EagleMark]

The PCM of today is also up to par of being able to run the new MAF.

MAP is not that bad! Even some built motors using todays PCM go without MAF.

[pma4x4]

MAP it is then. I am just glad these ECMs are pretty cheap.

[Six_Shooter]

MAF of today that may be true, not the MAF sensor and computer control of yesterday your talking about using.

I'd never swap anything to a 7165... and if I had one it'd be the first thing to change!

Now recently I've learned that the Australians have a new mask made for the 7165 titled $12P but I don't know enough about it to advise...


$12P is great, but I would not recommend it for a first time tuner, who is unsure about what needs to be done. It also sounds like pma4x4 doesn't want to do the tuning himself, so that in my eys puts $12P out of the question right there.

The best option in this case is a '7730 running $8D, or S_AUJP. It works well, and will be easy to tune, due to it being very documented. It will also allow the new engine to be started on a stock PROM and at least allow a base datalog to start from, I'm not so sure that some without experience could pull that off with #12P.

As far as the harness goes, I've never bought a new harness for any of my swaps, and have only had like 1 or 2 issues with connectors being fragile, but a replacement is easy to find. The wires don't tend to get brittle, but the convoluted tubing ("split loom") generally does, which is easy enough to deal with. If this was a custom swap into a vehicle that didn't previously have an EFI engine in it that will be very similar to the one that is going in, I might consider a stand alone harness to be supplied (though I would still build it myself as I have for every swap I've done thus far), but in a case like this where the harness is already integrated into the vehicle, using the stock dash lights, senders/sensors, etc, it just makes much more sense to me to re-pin at the ECM end and make the few changes under the hood for the new intake.

I hear ya on the TPI-Vortec lower. I'm not sure I'd want to attempt to modify a TPI lower for Vortec heads. I'm sure I would, because I'm cheap and I like to weld stuff, but I may not enjoy it. I modified a Corvette Crossfire lower to fit Vortec heads and that would be much easier than a TPI lower, due to the design. The Crossfire modification wasn't that hard, but had space above the port to easily add material to match the port, where the TPI lower doesn't have the same available space.

[pma4x4]

Yes Six shooter, I would rather data log the initial run and then send the info and $$ off to Eaglemark and just get a proper burned chip back from the get go.

I willing to admit I am paying more for the convenience but it will also be nice having confidence in new wires and connectors and frankly someone else having the headaches. I have already been surfing for a 7730 harness and came across two and they want 100 for one and 160 for the the other. I will still be using part of the existing harness for gauges and to hook up to the VSS. I've already resoldered the DRAC for tire size.

[Six_Shooter]

But you don't need a complete harness, you have 90% of the wiring in your truck already. You need one more connector for the ECM, the two connectors that plug into your existing harness will work in the '7730, some of the wires get moved to the third connector (either yellow or a pale green colour), and then the only major under hood modifications are for the injectors, which is a seperate harness anyway and you will only need to splice the connector to your existing injector wires, and the TPS/IAC. Depending on which ECM you have now you might have to add a wire for the MAT sensor. I can't recall any other modifications needed.

It's your call and your money, I just see it as more hassle than it's worth, especially since it will be far less integrated into the vehicle than the existing harness is.

[pma4x4]

Ok I just verified I have the 7747 ECM.

I have not bought anything yet so sell me more on using my existing TBI harness. It does sound like a lot of splicing and rewiring. I can be persuaded!

Is there a write-up for this?

I have emissions so I need to keep EGR and canister how ever my canister does NOT have a electronic purge valve.

I was also wanting to change over to full electric fans.

[pma4x4]

Ok I just found this one thru Gearhead-efi to an external link

http://forum.gmtruckcentral.com/showthread.php/1125-Convert-a-1988-TBI-to-TPI

not much detail but its a start.

[Fast355]

Ok I just found this one thru Gearhead-efi to an external link

http://forum.gmtruckcentral.com/showthread.php/1125-Convert-a-1988-TBI-to-TPI

not much detail but its a start.

I did a 7747 to 7427 swap, then swapped to TPI, then finally a 7730 all on the same harness. Only needs a few splices and wires lengthened under the hood and the connectors repinned under the dash. No speed sensor changes needed either. Just need to use the optical VSS input on the 7730 and enable the checksum in the calibration file.

[Fast355]

Ok I just verified I have the 7747 ECM.

I have not bought anything yet so sell me more on using my existing TBI harness. It does sound like a lot of splicing and rewiring. I can be persuaded!

Is there a write-up for this?

I have emissions so I need to keep EGR and canister how ever my canister does NOT have a electronic purge valve.

I was also wanting to change over to full electric fans.

Egr wiring and control is relatively easy just use the 2 wire tpi egr solenoid and matching valve. I blocked my egr off amd ran without it in my G20 when I swapped over to vortecs.

To use egr with vortec heads and tpi is a bit of a plumbing challenge but it can be done with a combination of aftermarket headers and corvette tpi egr parts.

As for the cooling fans I would use the later model 3 relay series/parallel control method. When low fan comes on it will run the fans in series on 6 volts and 1/4 amperage. When the a/c is on or the temps are higher than set point both relays are energized and both fans get full voltage and amperage. You can set mph limits for fan use to turn the fans off at highway speeds. You can also use a N.C. relay to control your a/c clutch which I highly recomeend. I also stumbled across an idle ac learn setting for the iac valve that really smoothes out the rpm surging as the compressor cycles.

[pma4x4]

Repinning the connectors to the ECM? as in pulling the pins out and shuffling them around? Im getting into this but some good detailed info on what gets cut, added, subtracted and lengthend would be nice.

[pma4x4]

Fast355,

the Scoggin Dickey TPI vortec intake comes with the EGR plumbing so thats just a matter of welding it to the header tube.

As for the Fans I was just thinking of going with an aftermarket dual temp setup like from Hayden. I can wire them in for an AC signal.

[EagleMark]

Repinning the connectors to the ECM? as in pulling the pins out and shuffling them around? Im getting into this but some good detailed info on what gets cut, added, subtracted and lengthend would be nice.It's not that hard, you need both wiring diagrams and tackle it one wire at a time!

[Fast355]

Fast355,

the Scoggin Dickey TPI vortec intake comes with the EGR plumbing so thats just a matter of welding it to the header tube.

As for the Fans I was just thinking of going with an aftermarket dual temp setup like from Hayden. I can wire them in for an AC signal.

The ecm controlled setup works better than anything you can probe into your radiator fins. The major energy savings is being able to turn the fans off at h8ghway speeds. The ecm adds steps to the iac to compensate for the fans turning off and on.

And the a/c compressor relay controls the compressor to shut it off at WOT or if the engine gets too hot. Also allows the ecm better idle speed control by being able to anticipate when the compressor engages and disengages.

[pma4x4]

OK so that is one circuit I will have to add is for the fan control.

[Fast355]

OK so that is one circuit I will have to add is for the fan control.

Yes and the a/c relay. 3 wires that all control the ground side of a relay. My theory is if the ecm will control it why not let it. Driveability is noticeably better. I added a purge solenoid from a later model TBI truck and ran it as well. It all added up to give me 17 mpg average in roughly 50% city and 50% highway driving in a 383 TPI powered G20 van. I used the throttle like a madman too.

Just an example of how the setup worked. Sorry its an older video and taken in slightly low light. The fans were on low in the start. When I switched om the a/c, they kicked up to high speed. I was using a nissan altima cooling fan setup on a 4 core radiator. NEVER ran hot.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/HDRadiatorNissanAltimaFans.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/HDRadiatorNissanAltimaFans.jpg.html)

Video of cooling fan function with 7730.

http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/100_1709.mp4.html

[pma4x4]

So where do I get this third yellow ecm connector? Wouldn't I have to run this thru the firewall ?

[Fast355]

I think you will have alot more power. I still have a SAUJPv4 Vortec TPI .bin file that I created for my heavy, undergeared G20. Probably a better starting point than any factory calibration.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/th_101_1468.jpg (http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/101_1468.mp4)

[Fast355]

So where do I get this third yellow ecm connector? Wouldn't I have to run this thru the firewall ?

The yellow connector can come from one of GMs umpteen million 2.8/3.1 cars with the underdash 7730 variants or from EFI Connection.

Yes the extra wires would have to run through the TBI harness grommet and throught the firewall.

Perfect time to remove the harness, clean and reloom it anyway. Your actual harness mods under hood are not too bad. You eliminate the ESC module and bypass it. Then lengthen the TPS and IAC wires. Finally you connect 4 TPI injectors to each of the TBI injector leads. My coolant temp sensor, distributor, map, transmission, and egr wiring were untouched.

I butchered several wrecing yard harneses to get the right connectors and cut lots of extra wires. I use long pigtails and splice the wires using solder and heatshrink. Ran 2 years without issue until I set it up for an 0411.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/101_1383.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/101_1383.jpg.html)

I robbed a random 2.8 S10 in the wrecking yard of its remote mounted cruise control servo. Worked perfectly with the TPI, except when towing had a tendency to roll on the throttle quite hard on hills. However that being said cruising 70, you could hold the accelerate button for about 2-3 seconds and it would kickdown, pin the throttle open, and I would look down and the speedo would be pegged.

[pma4x4]

I was thinking of just re using my Cruise servo.. make a relocation bracket and just get the cruise cable for the camaro.

[Fast355]

I was thinking of just re using my Cruise servo.. make a relocation bracket and just get the cruise cable for the camaro.

Probably easier just to find the factory part and slap it on. The TBI F-cars had the same unit as well IIRC. The last square body I did an engine swap in was a LT1 setup and I used a 88+ electronic cruise actuator. Basically eliminates the orange or black underdash box and vacuum solenoid servo setup.

[pma4x4]

Gheez man that's insane in that video to take off like that!:rockon:

I am geared at 4.56 with soon to be 35s so that will mathematically put me back at stock (235/75-15s with 3.42)

Fast 355 you are giving me some good info on this build. I was starting to doubt my plan with other still yelling BIG BLOCK BIG BLOCK!:mad1:


Aside the 8 injector connectors is there anything else I need to pillage from this 7165 harness? I have the entire harness including the under dash harness.

[pma4x4]

Fast355,

I noticed on your photobucket site you mentioned 2008 Tahoe fans. what did they go in and would you have the dimensions of those?

[Fast355]

Fast355,

I noticed on your photobucket site you mentioned 2008 Tahoe fans. what did they go in and would you have the dimensions of those?

Those are on my 97 Express fullsize van. The fit a 34" wide radiator. A pair of LT1 or LS1 fans fit nearly perfectly on a 28" wide radiator. The newer FWD V6 cars have a nice fan setup too. This was a set of V6 fans on my original 31" wide radiator. Needed more cooling so I stepped up to the Tahoe fans and a big block radiator.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff172/Fast355_album/20130801_203518_zpsf13d42c0.jpg (http://s243.photobucket.com/user/Fast355_album/media/20130801_203518_zpsf13d42c0.jpg.html)

[pma4x4]

Any idea what year Nissan Ultima fans you used?

[Fast355]

Any idea what year Nissan Ultima fans you used?

That was two condensor fans combined in the same housing. I want to say 1997-2004ish have similar fans.

[Fast355]

Gheez man that's insane in that video to take off like that!:rockon:

I am geared at 4.56 with soon to be 35s so that will mathematically put me back at stock (235/75-15s with 3.42)

Fast 355 you are giving me some good info on this build. I was starting to doubt my plan with other still yelling BIG BLOCK BIG BLOCK!:mad1:


Aside the 8 injector connectors is there anything else I need to pillage from this 7165 harness? I have the entire harness including the under dash harness.

It ran really strong, strong enough to kill several 700r4 transmissions.

Not really that I can think of except the TPS and IAC connectors and cut them with ALOT of slack. Depending on the EGR solenoid type your TBI truck has, you may need the EGR connector.

One thing you will need to do is move your serial data pin on your ALDL connector to the lower row (IIRC Pin M) for use with the 8192 baud rate scan tools. Took me multiple hours to find out why I could not get data from my 7427 when I swapped back in the day.

[Six_Shooter]

So where do I get this third yellow ecm connector? Wouldn't I have to run this thru the firewall ?

As mentioned any donor vehicle that uses the '7730 and similar (3 connector) ECMs.

No, the wires needed for this connector get moved from the other existing connectors. GM decided to move wire functions around when they went to this ECM. I've already mentioned the extra wires that will be needed, IAT/MAT, since you don't have one currently.

I've made '7747 to '7730 harness adapters without adding any extra wires through the firewall, I did not use the MAT sensor in this configuration, but it was more proof of concept than what would be left in place. So most of the wires you need for the '7730 are already in the existing harness.

[Fast355]

As mentioned any donor vehicle that uses the '7730 and similar (3 connector) ECMs.

No, the wires needed for this connector get moved from the other existing connectors. GM decided to move wire functions around when they went to this ECM. I've already mentioned the extra wires that will be needed, IAT/MAT, since you don't have one currently.

I've made '7747 to '7730 harness adapters without adding any extra wires through the firewall, I did not use the MAT sensor in this configuration, but it was more proof of concept than what would be left in place. So most of the wires you need for the '7730 are already in the existing harness.

I added the MAT, but did not use the EGR so I stole its wire.

[pma4x4]

Well the engine still has to be built, I still have to rework or buy new heads. this swap wont be going down until December. We have a cross country trip in October and it would cut it close for having the motor done and wired and burned right before then. so until then its gather intelligence, learn lots, raid some yards this summer.

[pma4x4]

Hey Fast355, are you using just L31 heads on a regular old gen 1 block or is the block a L31 "880" block? I ask because I am trying to figure out the issue on double roller timing chains and the itming cover on the L31 block.

[Fast355]

Hey Fast355, are you using just L31 heads on a regular old gen 1 block or is the block a L31 "880" block? I ask because I am trying to figure out the issue on double roller timing chains and the itming cover on the L31 block.

It was a GM 20270 HD 350 TBI crate engine. It is an 880 block but was built as a 8.75:1 350 TBI.

Single roller chains works great, no need for clearancing for a double roller.

[pma4x4]

Ive just always done double and with the torque this thing is looking at putting out double was even more on my mind but your motor is living proof that a single is just fine. I am just adding up the parts list this weekend. Its not going to be cheap but its going great!

[Fast355]

Ive just always done double and with the torque this thing is looking at putting out double was even more on my mind but your motor is living proof that a single is just fine. I am just adding up the parts list this weekend. Its not going to be cheap but its going great!

The factory single roller chains are plenty strong. They come in the ZZ4, ZZ383 and a version also comes in the LT1 and LT4 and drives the water pump as well.
The factory rev-limiter on the LT4 was 6,399 rpm. With the capability to turn 6,400 rpm + water pump drag I think there is plenty of additional strength in the timing chain for a more basic small block. I have seen 7,000+ RPM LT1 engines running close to .600 valve lift and 450 lbs open spring pressure running stock LT4 timing chains.

[pma4x4]

Ya see right there? thats just good straight logical info! ZZ4s and LT1 and 4s handling a single chain then good enough.

[pma4x4]

I know when you burn a prom you can get rid of vats and stuff but can you burn and remove the EGR?

[EagleMark]

Sure!

[pma4x4]

Ok, I thought so I just wanted to make sure. I found out emission test only opens hood to pinch off evap system to check tank pressure (or what ever it is. Great, I can eliminate the EGR, Besides you can't see the EGR valve under a TPI anyways.

[Bigdav160]

Good luck with your project. I love my Burb. It's getting a similar build up. I rebuilt the axles and installed elockers, rebuilt the transfer case with added twin stick controls, built and installed a 4L60.

The engine started out as low mileage 880 L31 that I scavenged out of an conversion ambulance. (4 bolt mains, steal crank, powdered metal rods, roller cam). I installed flat top pistons and a comp cam 268XFI cam. I used the vortec heads on another project so I bought some chinese aluminum heads. The intake is Holley stealth ram with 58mm throttle body (I hope it's not too big). The fuel rails are also chinese eBay specials. 36lb injectors fed by a Walbro 255 pump.

For engine management I decided to go microsquirt. It'll be my first venture into tuning via software. It should be running in the next couple weeks.

7392

[Fast355]

Good luck with your project. I love my Burb. It's getting a similar build up. I rebuilt the axles and installed elockers, rebuilt the transfer case with added twin stick controls, built and installed a 4L60.

The engine started out as low mileage 880 L31 that I scavenged out of an conversion ambulance. (4 bolt mains, steal crank, powdered metal rods, roller cam). I installed flat top pistons and a comp cam 268XFI cam. I used the vortec heads on another project so I bought some chinese aluminum heads. The intake is Holley stealth ram with 58mm throttle body (I hope it's not too big). The fuel rails are also chinese eBay specials. 36lb injectors fed by a Walbro 255 pump.

For engine management I decided to go microsquirt. It'll be my first venture into tuning via software. It should be running in the next couple weeks.




Don't see the 4L60 being very happy with the setup, but feel the short block is a solid foundation for the power the heads/cam/intake will give you.

[pma4x4]

In regards to the 7730 ECM. I know I can find it in the umpteen billion GM cars. but if I dont get it out of a TPI V8 I will have to reburn the chip before trying to run correct? Then run it then email the log to Eaglemark then get a new burned PROM.

Also, I know I have to grab the yellow connector and a good amount of pigtail wire with it.

You guys said I have to "re-pin" the connectors between my existing 2 to the new 3 connectors. Is there a map or picture, something that will help me in the repinning.

Also is there a tool I can get to assist in proper pin removal of these connectors? I have a pin removal tool for the metra-pak 280 series but that's it.

[JeepsAndGuns]

if I dont get it out of a TPI V8 I will have to reburn the chip before trying to run correct? Then run it then email the log to Eaglemark then get a new burned PROM.

Correct. Also, a V6 memcal will not have the correct knock filter or limp home chips in it. There are some jumper wires you can do to make it work with a V8, but from what I read the knock module will still not be right.

[pma4x4]

So best to find a 7730 out of a V8 then. Anyway I can find a list of vehicles that would have that ECM?

[JeepsAndGuns]

Not 100% sure, but I think the 90-92 V8 camaros are about it. Maybe pontiac firebirds? Not sure though. They pop up on ebay every now and then, but usally big money.
The V8 memcal would be the best, but the V6 memcals can be made to work if you dont want to spend the coin for a V8 one. Do a search on here, I remember reading some threads on here talking about the V6 to V8 memcal mods for TPI systems.

There are other options avalable. Not sure if you would want to do it or not, but a 16197427 pcm can be modded and tuned to run batch fire MPFI. Dont really see why a TPI intake/fuel system could not be run by it. Not to mention, it would make it to where you could swap in a e-trans in the future if you desired. They are also much more easy to find with a V8 memcal. Usally somewhere in the $50 range, where a V8 7730 would probably be closer to $200-$300 (based on what I have seen)
I am running a MPFI system with a modded 7427. There were a few initial tuning quirks, but I have it running real nice now.

[RobertISaar]

90-92 TPI 5.0/5.7 and only in camaros and firebirds. not a whole lot of them left that haven't been picked over at this point either.

if they're easier to find...... you can use the external knock filters used with the 86-89 TPI cars that was used with the 1227165 ECM and then use the 86-89 MEMCAL with it. but i really don't know how common those are at this point either.

[pma4x4]

If that's the case i may just get a new remanned. AC delco is only $147. and A1cardones are $99.

[JeepsAndGuns]

Reman ecm or memcal?
If its a ecm, it will not come with the memcal.
I have never seen a reman memcal, but I have been surprised before.

[Six_Shooter]

Reman ecm or memcal?
If its a ecm, it will not come with the memcal.
I have never seen a reman memcal, but I have been surprised before.

ECMs from parts stores do NOT come with MEMCALs.

[pma4x4]

OK so if I get one used how do I know if it has the memcal? Is it that memory slot looking thing I see in the parts store pics?

[EagleMark]

That memerory slot will be filled with a Blue Memcal. Be prepared to spend a premium price for a TPI Memcal!!!

[pma4x4]

Well wait. from what I was getting here is just go find a 7730 out of anything and then burn a new prom for it.

Flat out, If I go yard hunting what do I need to find?

Or I could just a get used prom which I assume has the memcal on it? It looks like its piggyback?

http://tpiparts.net/82_92_camaro_ecm_and_prom?b=1


:mad1: Ah hell! I am just confused on this. Can someone just post some pictures so I can get what we're all talking about?

[JeepsAndGuns]

OK, the ecm does not matter what it comes out of, as long as it has the service number 1227730. It is the memcal that has all the important stuff on it, its what determines what engine the ecm will run. It has the PROM, the knock sensor board, and the limp home chips inside it. In the link you posted, its this part here: http://tpiparts.net/inc/sdetail/10935/476
It has the broadcast code of AUJP, and as you can see, quite expensive because its the factory 350 V8 memcal.

[pma4x4]

I would get just the PROM back from get from Eaglemark with the correct burn? I am guessing the prom is the larger chip beneath the flat board which I assume is the knock sensor board?

7423

If I do find one on a yard. I know it has to be 90-92. are there any other specifics about the car I need to know. can it be a manual or auto? can it have or not have A/C?

[pma4x4]

On a side note I just picked up another pile of TPIs. a full TPI unit from a corvette (85-86) standard head bolt pattern. and a spare unit minus plenum for F-body heads. It was a good 4th of July. $120 for both. already sold one of the throttle bodies and this just saves me spending the 400 on the Scoggin Dickey intake manifold!

:rockon:

7424

[Bigdav160]

That memerory slot will be filled with a Blue Memcal. Be prepared to spend a premium price for a TPI Memcal!!!

Ok, so what are the options? I'm newbie with the ECM/Prom combos myself. EBL? The Aussies seem to be using some type of flash chip? What about a memcal from something like a 4.9L Cadillac? I have a pile of those someone gave me.

No to bogart on pma4x4's thread but one of the reasons I went MS with my Suburban project is a 01227727 ECM on my workbench has no prom.

I also have a '73 Z28 with a TPI with a 16198259 AKFX ECM. Is there an (easy) option to go speed density and get away from the MAF?

[pma4x4]

I have a 7747 and a 7165 both with memcals. can I not use either of them? if not I will just toss them to the market.

[JeepsAndGuns]

The 7747 will not run MPFI.
The 7165, seems to be a slightly unpopular ecm that gets swapped for a 7730. But thats based on what I have read on here, never used/tuned one or even been around one myself.

[Six_Shooter]

Ok, this will take some explaining and might need to find links if you want to go this route (All information IS on this site).

Anyway...

The '7747 does not use a MEMCAL, it uses an EPROM (or possibly just PROM depending on date of manufacturer or application), and a CALPAK.

Yes, there is a way to use the MEMCAL from the '7165, but will take a little work to the harness and slight modification to the MEMCAL to work. You will need an external ESC module, this will be a part of the '7165 harness, and even the '7747 harness. It's a square box about 3" by 3" by 5/8" and has 5 or 6 pins (sorry I don't recall exact pin count off hand). The knock sensor will go to this ESC and then the ESC will then send a signal to the '7730, on a different pin than where the knock sensor would actually attach, again I don't recall the exact pin off hand, but the information is here. There is a small modification needed on the MEMCAL to tie this up, and that is to add a 4.7K ohm resistor across two contacts of the MEMCAL, this keeps the ECM happy when it looks to see if there is a knock sensor attached, so that it will not throw a code or automatically retard timing.
The LHM (Limp Home Mode) NETRES (NETwork of RESistors), should more closely match yor V8 than modifying a V6 MEMCAL for your application.

If I was in your shoes, this is likely the route I would choose. The other route I would choose would be to modify a V6 MEMCAL that would actually take another jumper modification on the MEMCAL and would likely not work in LHM.

There is no guarantee that the LHM NETRES of the '7165 MEMCAL will work in the '7730, but it might. I have not tried this exact combination. However, I HAVE used a V6 MEMCAL modified in a '7730, using the external ESC modification, and it worked well, on a turbo V6.

If you decide to sell the '7165 with or without the MEMCAL, let me know.

[RobertISaar]

from what i can tell, every MEMCAL(except for the oddballs that didn't have any LHM stuff like the northstars) kept the same basic design, just different resistor values. i wouldn't be surprised if you could take a 92-93 LT1 MEMCAL and use it's LHM stuff for a 7165 and work exactly as expected.

[Six_Shooter]

Here is a thread that I started on another site that has some information.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/diy-prom/654181-using-external-knock-filter.html?styleid=40#post5309404

[pma4x4]

Thanks for the link. I will read through that. At this moment I am thinking of just hunting down a 7730 out of a TPI V8.

[Fast355]

Thanks for the link. I will read through that. At this moment I am thinking of just hunting down a 7730 out of a TPI V8.


If you have a V8 memcal for the 165, it would not be a bad thing to start with the Aussie speed density code from the 808 that will run in the 165. Its not like a stock camaro TPI tune is going to run the engine in the suburban all that well anyway.

[pma4x4]

No I will be data logging then having Eaglemark give me a proper burn for my application. I don't plant to leave the ECM stock. that wouldn't make much sense.

[JeepsAndGuns]

I would very highly reccomend buying one of these when you do get the 7730:

http://www.moates.net/gp1-package-gm-adapter-with-2-chips-p-41.html?cPath=64

The stock and highly valuable AUJP memcal will simply plug into it, leaving it unmodded. It then gives you a ZIF socket to make swapping out chips super easy, not to mention you will get two blank chips with it. I am running one in my 7427 and love it. Saves you the trouble of having to desolder the stock prom from the memcal and solder on a new prom.

[Six_Shooter]

If you have a V8 memcal for the 165, it would not be a bad thing to start with the Aussie speed density code from the 808 that will run in the 165. Its not like a stock camaro TPI tune is going to run the engine in the suburban all that well anyway.

I would be surprised if the stock PROM didn't run the engine quite well to start with.

Setting up $12P is not for the beginner, or at least not for a beginner that wants someone else to tune it for them via remote. Sure it could be done, but it would be a lot more frustrating and take a lot longer than using the '7730 and $8D, or even S_AUJP.

[pma4x4]

I would very highly reccomend buying one of these when you do get the 7730:

http://www.moates.net/gp1-package-gm-adapter-with-2-chips-p-41.html?cPath=64

The stock and highly valuable AUJP memcal will simply plug into it, leaving it unmodded. It then gives you a ZIF socket to make swapping out chips super easy, not to mention you will get two blank chips with it. I am running one in my 7427 and love it. Saves you the trouble of having to desolder the stock prom from the memcal and solder on a new prom.

What do the open pins plug into on the memcal pack? I suspect you have to remove the blue cover.

[Fast355]

I would be surprised if the stock PROM didn't run the engine quite well to start with.

Setting up $12P is not for the beginner, or at least not for a beginner that wants someone else to tune it for them via remote. Sure it could be done, but it would be a lot more frustrating and take a lot longer than using the '7730 and $8D, or even S_AUJP.

$12P was no more difficult tha $8D or S_AUJP.

That being said with vortec heads, a different cam in a big heavy suburban the stock prom will not run well at all. I have run that exact setup and it took alot of work to make things run even halfway decently. Stock AUJP was nearly undriveable with my setup.

[Six_Shooter]

$12P was no more difficult tha $8D or S_AUJP.

That being said with vortec heads, a different cam in a big heavy suburban the stock prom will not run well at all. I have run that exact setup and it took alot of work to make things run even halfway decently. Stock AUJP was nearly undriveable with my setup.


I've used $12P, and would not recommend it for this situation. For someone that wants to tune their own vehicle, sure, go ahead, but when it's going to be mail order tuned, and by someone who has no experience with it (Eaglemark has said this on a few occasions), it would not be a good idea.

I don't know why you had such an un-driveable vehicle using AUJP on a combination like this. I've used it (and S_AUJP) on a bored 348, that was 365 c.i. IIRC (think baby 409), with custom intake manifold, a rather large cam, home made headers and a few other things that should have made it "impossible" and it ran well enough to drive around and get datalogging. I'm not saying it will be ideal, but should be good enough to get a base from.

[Six_Shooter]

What do the open pins plug into on the memcal pack? I suspect you have to remove the blue cover.

You don't do anything with them, they are the EPROM pins, and that will be replaced by the new EEPROM, which is why the DIP socket is there on the adapter. ;)

[pma4x4]

Man I build PCs and electronics for offroad vehicles I have done soldering at board level but for some reason I just am having issues trying to wrap my head around this prom memcal stuff. I do not want to make this a hobby. I want build the engine, get in, Record the data and give specs and data to Eaglemark to burn my a new prom? memcal? apple pie? and send it back to me and would like to be done after that.

Six shooter are you saying eaglemark as no experience with burning? or me? I don't want to get into burning if I don't have to.

I am not trying to come off as some jerk I really do appreciate all the info I am getting here which is why I signed up. Like i said I am just having to figure this out.

on another note. I have located a 7730 with a AUJP.

As stated before :mad1:

[Six_Shooter]

No, Eaglemark has lots of experience tuning, just not with a particular code mask that was mentioned ($12P). He's mentioned on several occasions that he has not used it, but knows of it. It's a very cool code, but not what you need.

[pma4x4]

OK that's what I was thinking. So I am on the right track with the 7730 AUJP.

[Fast355]

OK that's what I was thinking. So I am on the right track with the 7730 AUJP.

It is probably the easiest one to drop-in with your 5.7. Will take alot of tuning to make your setup run well. Read will need a huge amount of fuel added from 50-100 kpa above 1,600 rpm and the spark map completely reworked.

[JeepsAndGuns]

What do the open pins plug into on the memcal pack? I suspect you have to remove the blue cover.

Basicly what it does is bypas the prom on the memcal. The memcal plugs into the adapter, and then the adapter plugs into the ecm where the memcal was. No need to remove the blue cover.
Here is a picture I found on google of it installed. You can see the memcal is now tucked up under the ecm case.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t184/hudini_photo/memcal006.jpg

Here is another picture I found showing it with the blue cover removed so you can see how its supposed to go on.
The knock filter is on the right, the stock prom on the left.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l45/sy1096/Chipping%20Pics/memcal_G1_chip.jpg

[pma4x4]

It is probably the easiest one to drop-in with your 5.7. Will take alot of tuning to make your setup run well. Read will need a huge amount of fuel added from 50-100 kpa above 1,600 rpm and the spark map completely reworked.

Thats the point of data logging though yes? i get that info on how its running then a new PROM is burned with the correct info.

[pma4x4]

Basicly what it does is bypas the prom on the memcal. The memcal plugs into the adapter, and then the adapter plugs into the ecm where the memcal was. No need to remove the blue cover.
Here is a picture I found on google of it installed. You can see the memcal is now tucked up under the ecm case.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t184/hudini_photo/memcal006.jpg

Here is another picture I found showing it with the blue cover removed so you can see how its supposed to go on.
The knock filter is on the right, the stock prom on the left.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l45/sy1096/Chipping%20Pics/memcal_G1_chip.jpg

Ok I get it now. it turned the memcal sideways and leaves the prom facing up.

[pma4x4]

One of the guys over at the CK5 forums showed me this. What y'all think?

http://www.dynamicefi.com/EBL_P4_Flash.php

[EagleMark]

Real good stuff! :thumbsup:

[JeepsAndGuns]

Never used it myself, but hear lots of good stuff about it. It looks like a really nice and interesting system.
But couple things to concider. Not as many people run that system, so finding someone to tune it for you may be harder. You may end up having to do your own tuning. You will still need a memcal if you want a knock filter. They show a few different options. If you dont use a memcal, you will not have a limp home mode.

[pma4x4]

I really would just like the simplest way to get this TPI going. I can handle repinning the ECM connectors. I want to keep the knock sensor.

I need a reminder the 7730 controls 1 or 2 fans? any idea what the temps are for on and off and I also read that they shut off at a certain speed so not to work against the natural airflow.

[Fast355]

I really would just like the simplest way to get this TPI going. I can handle repinning the ECM connectors. I want to keep the knock sensor.

I need a reminder the 7730 controls 1 or 2 fans? any idea what the temps are for on and off and I also read that they shut off at a certain speed so not to work against the natural airflow.

2 fans and the a/c clutch.

Its all programable to whatever values you want.

There is a port fuel upgrade for the EBL Flash for the 7747 ecm.

[EagleMark]

There is a way to go around the Knock Filter in Memcal and install a ESC with matching Knock Sensor like the older systems. I'll see if I can find the .pdf that one of or members did fir the write up. It something that should be in FAQs!

Found it! Only name I have is Frank, I wish I remembered his forum name to give credit, this was a lot of work to put together and share! :thumbsup:

EDIT: Thanks Zaut for the detailed .pdf on how to external Knock Filter a Memcal! :happy:

[Six_Shooter]

There is a way to go around the Knock Filter in Memcal and install a ESC with matching Knock Sensor like the older systems. I'll see if I can find the .pdf that one of or members did fir the write up. It something that should be in FAQs!

Found it! Only name I have is Frank, I wish I remembered his forum name to give credit, this was a lot of work to put together and share! :thumbsup:


On the previous page I linked to a thread on TGO that links back to here with that .pdf posted by the forum user. ;)

[RobertISaar]

wonder how long it will be before we start building DIY external knock filters en-masse using one of those interesting TI chips that allow for software control of sensitivity, frequency, etc..... i know i've seen it mentioned on delcohacking a few times and at least one prototype built. considering that i think all ~98ish and up GM PCMs use that scheme, it is at least as reliable as the hardware filters.

[pma4x4]

I saw this and was thinking of doing the re-pinning this way. is this available? or would I have to make it myself? seems like something someone could offer. I understand this is not for my application but I was just wondering why couldn't this be done. going from the one piece ecm connector (7747 harness side) to the re-pinned 3 connectors (on the 7730 ECM side)?

7461

[EagleMark]

wonder how long it will be before we start building DIY external knock filters en-masse using one of those interesting TI chips that allow for software control of sensitivity, frequency, etc..... i know i've seen it mentioned on delcohacking a few times and at least one prototype built. considering that i think all ~98ish and up GM PCMs use that scheme, it is at least as reliable as the hardware filters.Works great in the 0411 OS. When you going to have them ready? :innocent2:


I saw this and was thinking of doing the re-pinning this way. is this available? or would I have to make it myself? seems like something someone could offer. I understand this is not for my application but I was just wondering why couldn't this be done. going from the one piece ecm connector (7747 harness side) to the re-pinned 3 connectors (on the 7730 ECM side)?

7461They are all home made. Way more work then just re-pinning the ECM...

[pma4x4]

Just seems easier to re-pin that on the bench then to re-pin the harness hanging under the dash.

[pma4x4]

This is my first attempt at a re-pinning. I created this "map" to hopefully make things easy and understandable. Also attached are the 3 diagrams I used for reference. There are a couple spots that have "?" I wasn't sure what do do with those. I could not find a match up.

I also assumed I would have to add the fan control circuit and the A/C pressure switch circuit.

the 7730 ECM wants a knock sensor wire but I dont have one or at least cant find it in the 7747 diagram

Pass fail close?

7462

Reference material

7464 7465 7463

[Bigdav160]

The knock sensor is B7 "est retard"

[JeepsAndGuns]

The knock sensor does not connect directly to a 7747. They use a external knock filter. Usally bolted on a plate on the intake next to the map sensor. That module will need to be removed and bypassed. It has 4 wires, power, ground, knock sensor, and then ouput to the ecm. You can remove the module, remove the ground and power wires for it from the harness, then where the module was, connect the knock sensor wire to the wire going to the ecm, as mentioned above, its pin B7 on the 7747, then that wire will go to the 7730 knock sensor input F9. The crank signal wire (pin C9 on the 7747) is not used on the 7730. So it can be taped up and tucked away. You will also have to run some wires for the IAT sensor, since there was never one on the 7747.

[pma4x4]

I have been wondering what that thing was next to the TBI. SO bypass that buy connecting the wire from the knock sensor to the wire going from the knock filter to the ECM. cap off the rest.

[pma4x4]

Anyone have any views on these others

B2 to b13
c12 - ?
which fuel injector ctrl runs which bank?

on the 7730 I dont know where these are on the 7747
B5 is TPS and MAT ground
B6 is MAP (not using) and CTS ground.

and the 5v reference on the 7747 C14
C14 to A4/A5??

[JeepsAndGuns]

Anyone have any views on these others

B2 to b13
c12 - ?
which fuel injector ctrl runs which bank?

on the 7730 I dont know where these are on the 7747
B5 is TPS and MAT ground
B6 is MAP (not using) and CTS ground.

and the 5v reference on the 7747 C14
C14 to A4/A5??


Pin B2 on the 7747 would go to pin E13 on the 7730

I assume your talking about pin C12 on the 7730?
C11 is injectors 1,3,5,7
C12 is injectors 2,4,6,8

A11 is the sensor ground on the 7747. The map, tps, and cts ground on that pin.

The 7747 powers the map and tps with the same pin (C14). The 7730 just used seperate wires. You can simply connect the 7747 wire C14 to either A4 or A5 on the 7730. Wont really matter.

[1BadAction]

I don't look at the site for a month or so and this is what I miss?!?!:yikes: Neato thread. :wtg:

[pma4x4]

I want to thank Jeepsandguns for letting me have the 7730 ECM at a great price. One step closer.

7496 7497

[pma4x4]

Heads are in.

7498 7499 7500 7501 7502 7503 7504 7505

[pma4x4]

I got a whole pile of TPI stuff I am selling over in the classifieds section. These are the parts I accumulated while figuring out this motor project.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?3536-Multiple-stock-TPI-parts-for-sale-intakes-ECM-Harness-more&p=42306#post42306

[pma4x4]

So it's been a while since I've been here. The project is pretty much on hold until tax refund time. I am slowly trying to acquire what I can when I can. The block is done I just need to get the new pistons to them so they can check decking. I just ordered 24Lb blue top injectors (jumped on those since they were on sale). I am hoping to order som emore stuff here soon. We took the truck for a cross country trip to Minnesota in September. it did great but I think it would have done awesome with the TPI setup.

Ive been going thru the build list and I am trying to finalize the list.

[TPI 86 Caprice Landau]

I just ran across this thread and seen that your engine build mirrors what I plan for the engine swap for my 86 Caprice Landau. I have subscribed as I want to see how it turns out. I will not hijack your thread but just wanted to wish you good luck. Should be a great running engine.

[bybyc5]

I just ordered 24Lb blue top injectors (jumped on those since they were on sale). I am hoping to order som emore stuff here soon.

Hello pma4x4,

I just finished reading this thread, and have made a TPI swap myself in my 93 K1500 a while back. The torque increase over the TBI was amazing. I put The TPI system ontop of a 383 build with a Comp Cam designed for the TPI system for fuel mileage and low rpm torque. My highway mileage is amazing for a 4x4 truck on flat roads I get about 22 mpg @ 65-70 mph. Reading through TunerPro RT data logging.
I used 24 lb. injectors as well, and have a couple suggestions that will aid in getting your set up tuned properly.
1- Be sure and get the specifications on those injectors, specifically flow rate vs fuel pressure.
2- The voltage offsets for injector lag time specific to the injectors you bought.
3- Get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. To be able to fine tune your fuel pressure.

Keep in mind that stock TPI runners and lower manifold will not flow much above 4500 rpm. So keep this in mind when buying a cam. Not sure if you have bought that yet.

Good Luck!!

Keith
NE Tennessee