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View Full Version : Gonna be parting out a C3500 soon, need advise



JeepsAndGuns
05-19-2014, 01:48 AM
So this coming weekend (or next) I am going to be picking up a 93 GMC 3500 dually to part out. I am getting a super good deal cause the guy wants it gone. It doesnt run and has been settin in the weeds for around 5 years. Its 2wd, has a TBI 454 and a 5 speed. I plan on keeping the trans, tbi, ecm, wiring harnes, and the hydroboost brake booster. The rest I will sell what I can on craigslist then scrap the rest.
Not knowing anything about chevys, I was wondering if anyone could help me on how to price the parts. I know location and demand will dictate a lot of it, but I need at least a starting point.
The body is in really nice shape, no major damage. Has power windows, no idea if they work, passenger door panel is off. Key switch in the column is messed up and wont turn off (key is in it). Unknown condition of the engine. I think he said it wouldnt start before it was parked, but I have little to no details. I do not think there is any rust, but I have not looked under it. Shows 196k on the clock. Drivers seat is busted off the frame and about to fall off.
Both dually fenders and the bed seem in really nice shape, no dents, cracks, or major damage. Has a plastic liner, no idea whats under it. Being lots of chevy people on here I figured yall might know more about parts value than me (being a jeep guy)

7172

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Six_Shooter
05-19-2014, 02:15 AM
When ever I am trying to price something that I don't know the market value of I use Craigslist, Kijiji and eBay to get a general idea of what things are going for. I will also just do a general Google search for forums that that item are commonly sold through.

EagleMark
05-19-2014, 02:36 AM
Complete Hydraboost brake system is only worth about $75. That's not much for all the work to take off.

Dual tank fuel lines, swtches etc... complete could bring good money, likem $350, but then again a lot of work. But must be complete, switches, wiring, valves, return crossovers etc.... All comes off easy if motor is already pulled etc... then truck rolled on side.

steveo
05-19-2014, 03:39 AM
better yet, dont price parts at all? auction them, that's what ebay is for. 20 buck reserve no buy-it-now option, let people pump up the bids.

making ebay ads for individual parts isnt even that hard once you get on a roll... copy/paste the history of the vehicle, snap 2 pics of each part, say 'appears to be in good condition, no warranty'..

1project2many
05-19-2014, 01:53 PM
better yet, dont price parts at all? auction them, that's what ebay is for. 20 buck reserve no buy-it-now option, let people pump up the bids.

I hadn't used ebay in a long time when I auctioned some items before Christmas. There was little bidding activity and it was very challenging to make my auction stand out among all the imported Chinese junk without paying for extra Ebay bling. After the auction was over I was surprised to be billed a percentage of the shipping charge... something I'd never been billed before. It was very frustrating since I don't mark up shipping at all. I have a bunch of stuff to sell but after my last experience I'm not too keen on that venue.

JeepsAndGuns
05-19-2014, 02:27 PM
Complete Hydraboost brake system is only worth about $75. That's not much for all the work to take off.

Dual tank fuel lines, swtches etc... complete could bring good money, likem $350, but then again a lot of work. But must be complete, switches, wiring, valves, return crossovers etc.... All comes off easy if motor is already pulled etc... then truck rolled on side.

The hydroboost I am keeping for myself. I am running hydroboost on my cherokee and wrangler, so having a good spare unit would be nice.
The main thing I am really wanting out of this truck is the transmission. Being a 93, its the early chevy version of the NV4500 with the lower 6.34 first gear. It was only avalable for two years with the low first gear untill they changed to the 5.61 first gear in 95. I have fully rebuilt one of those for my cherokee, and being a two year only model (93 and 94), made it very hard to find a correct tooth count gear I needed for it when I rebuilt it. So having a complete good trans for a spare is a big plus for me. Even though its 2wd, the only difference is the tailhousing and output shaft.

Now as far as pulling small parts and selling on ebay, if I knew what was easy to pull, sell and ship I would. But I do not have enough time or desire to crate up and ship large stuff like doors, fenders, hood, bumpers, etc.. You can list something as local pickup only, but thats usally almost always a bid killer as its rare to find someone on ebay thats local or willing to drive long distance for a body part. Not to mention the final value fee they charge. Not so bad on small low price stuff, but gets expensive on bigger money items. That stuff will be left for craigslist. I just dont know what the going price for it is, so I'm really not sure where to start. I suppose I could try calling a few local junkyards and asking for prices.

Nasty-Z
05-19-2014, 03:35 PM
Where in Alabama are you ? I would be in for whats left over after you take what you want . I can pay a fair price for the remains , but logistically it has to make sense for me as well . I will be coming from PA 18052 Zip code .

P/M me if you want .

Thanks

TOM

JeepsAndGuns
05-20-2014, 02:14 AM
I am in north central alabama. I am about a hour north of birmingham.

JeepsAndGuns
05-25-2014, 01:48 AM
Got the truck and got it over to my friends house. I live in a trailer park, so something like I dont have the room for, plus its not allowed.
I got to check it over a little more. I stuck a battery in it and tried to crank it over. Starter is sticking a bit, but after a few tries with the key, it turned over. Fuel pump is not working, not that it would do any good since the fuel is sour, probably the reason the pump is not working. I had my friend crank it over while I sprayed it with some carb cleaner and it actually fired right up on it. Seemed to run ok. So the engine might be ok. The right valve cover says 454 by tonawanda. Does this mean anything? Since it seems to run and be ok, what would the value be on a used 454?
Pulled the glove box and it has a 1228747 ecm with the bcc ARPY. I tried to find the gear ratio of the rear axle but couldnt find a tag. Do GM axles even use a tag like dana axles do?
I have one month to to sell what I can then I have to haul it off, those were the terms with my friend. I should be able to get my stuff without much trouble. Might go out there in the morning and start on it.

steveo
05-25-2014, 06:14 AM
The right valve cover says 454 by tonawanda. Does this mean anything?

yeah, lots of bigblocks say that, it's just a gm production plant.


what would the value be on a used 454?

unfortunately not much these days, a stock BBC belongs in a motorhome, or it's only value is in a core for a gigantic racecar project or something like that.

JeepsAndGuns
05-25-2014, 02:25 PM
yeah, lots of bigblocks say that, it's just a gm production plant.

Ok, wasnt sure. Not knowing much about GM engines, I had never seen that before.

brian617
05-25-2014, 03:04 PM
I tried to find the gear ratio of the rear axle but couldnt find a tag. Do GM axles even use a tag like dana axles do?


No tag. You have two options, first one is hope the RPO code sticker in the glove box is still legible, looking for something like GU6 = 3:42, GT4 = 3:73, GT5 = 4:10, etc, G80 denotes a locker. Second on the passenger axle tube facing the front of the truck is a three digit code stamped into the axle tube generally followed by a space and a longer set of number or letters. Post either one here and I can decode them for you.

steveo
05-26-2014, 12:47 AM
i have a third option. jiffy marker the input and output, spin, count, grab a calculator.

EagleMark
05-26-2014, 02:07 AM
i have a third option. jiffy marker the input and output, spin, count, grab a calculator.With an open differentail just make sure that both tires spin one full revolution.

JeepsAndGuns
05-26-2014, 02:19 AM
No tag. You have two options, first one is hope the RPO code sticker in the glove box is still legible, looking for something like GU6 = 3:42, GT4 = 3:73, GT5 = 4:10, etc, G80 denotes a locker. Second on the passenger axle tube facing the front of the truck is a three digit code stamped into the axle tube generally followed by a space and a longer set of number or letters. Post either one here and I can decode them for you.

I'll look for that next time I am out there. I have no plans to use the axle, just wanting to know the ratio incase someone calls and asks.
I went out there today and got the hydroboost and master cylinder. I ran out of time before I was able to get anything else.
If anyone here needs any reasonably easy to ship parts, let me know.