PDA

View Full Version : M715 to 5.7 TBI Build



maingear
04-29-2014, 07:21 PM
Here's what I've got to work with:
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/d2d76e408822b39d81bb3e8b815ede79_zps3b655a30.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/d2d76e408822b39d81bb3e8b815ede79_zps3b655a30.jpg.h tml)

67 M715 5.89 gears 4 speed T98 divorced transfer case (np200 or np205 can't remember) all stock uncle sam issued all the way to the 24v electrical. The Inline 6 180hp "Tornado" dropped a valve. I'm spending my time on a conversion not a rebuild 6 that gets 8 mpg. Just want a setup that starts easy and gets me around without trouble. No hotrod'n or monster truck show'n for me, dont wanna spill my ice tea!

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/7d37c871f8524408c32a73d2b1de120c_zps49b8e79d.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/7d37c871f8524408c32a73d2b1de120c_zps49b8e79d.jpg.h tml)

Donor vehicle is a 1988 Chevy P/U 350 TBI 4x4 standard trans with a blown head gasket. $800 even included the title, striped it and sold it for a quick $500 (looking back I should have rebuilt it and picked apart something else!)

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/11DD6B9C-C1CB-45C4-B045-4B9DA39242FF_zpsrzpd3w3l.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/11DD6B9C-C1CB-45C4-B045-4B9DA39242FF_zpsrzpd3w3l.jpg.html)

Threw this vortec 5.7 in the mix, came out of a rolled suburban, gave both sets of heads to the local head expert and decided to keep the 88 heads because I already have an intake that fit. The area's Chevy hotrod authority told me I'll never get the TBI to work with the newer cam. I understand now that the 88 heads are the worst flow ever, wish I found this site earlier! Suggestions on cam issue?

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/86D1619F-5B7F-48E4-95D8-623383ED99F3_zpsgqvdr3kf.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/86D1619F-5B7F-48E4-95D8-623383ED99F3_zpsgqvdr3kf.jpg.html)

While it was out I yanked a under dash A/C out of a 84 Jeep Wagoner

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/15A8B7C3-D093-4CEA-B52C-2756930335AC_zps6r4s933c.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/15A8B7C3-D093-4CEA-B52C-2756930335AC_zps6r4s933c.jpg.html)

Installed with a coat of Japanese plastic model paint I found at a hobby shop.

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/7EFCF00B-C149-48CA-B3B5-BAEECCFCFD4D_zpspbfcwu64.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/7EFCF00B-C149-48CA-B3B5-BAEECCFCFD4D_zpspbfcwu64.jpg.html)

Back to the EFI stuff, that's that we're here for right?

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/574D911B-AD15-40AA-82E3-EB24E0E86559_zps6gokoxax.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/574D911B-AD15-40AA-82E3-EB24E0E86559_zps6gokoxax.jpg.html)
I removed the two EGR circuits, one actuated a solenoid vacuum valve and the other was i EGR sensor (i think)
Looks like I need to run some hot when key on/start wires. My M715 has an ignition switch only with a keyed battery master switch.

And here we go!!!

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/8298CB67-4EA6-466A-885F-5BF9DCA39E55_zpsfbgudkzf.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/8298CB67-4EA6-466A-885F-5BF9DCA39E55_zpsfbgudkzf.jpg.html)
:rockon:

maingear
04-29-2014, 07:23 PM
Cheap ebay headers
What size is that plug? Broke off an extension I ground down, didn,t budge, I think the water temp sencor goes in there!? I installed a cheap oil sending unit back by the end of the headers to drive a replacement gauge set, out with the old.....

Do I need a heated O2? I read where some install them on their rigs on this site.
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/f39e5a0d4775fc0e60d7ec60bb7a2822_zps1ba31f73.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/f39e5a0d4775fc0e60d7ec60bb7a2822_zps1ba31f73.jpg.h tml)

Fast355
04-29-2014, 07:46 PM
Cheap ebay headers
What size is that plug? Broke off an extension I ground down, didn,t budge, I think the water temp sencor goes in there!? I installed a cheap oil sending unit back by the end of the headers to drive a replacement gauge set, out with the old.....

Do I need a heated O2? I read where some install them on their rigs on this site.
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/f39e5a0d4775fc0e60d7ec60bb7a2822_zps1ba31f73.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/f39e5a0d4775fc0e60d7ec60bb7a2822_zps1ba31f73.jpg.h tml)

Water temp sensor goes there.....Northern Tool & Equipment sells a pipe plug remover set. Pull off the header, pull out a propane torch and a small birthday cake candle. Heat up the plug with a torch and then shove the candle on top and let it melt into the threads. The wax will quench into the threads. Then remove the now lubricated plug with the remover.

blue68deville
04-30-2014, 03:23 AM
Very cool build, I've always had a thing for the 715's

maingear
04-30-2014, 05:38 PM
...............remove the now lubricated plug with the remover.
Thank you for the tip! :thumbsup:



Very cool build, I've always had a thing for the 715's
The local FD had one and I climbed all over it when I was a kid. It had a water tank in the bed and was set up to put out brush fires. It was so difficult to steer, that no one wanted to take it out! I fixed that with a power steering box from a wagoner.(the 88 chevy truck P/S lines hoked up with no modification!) This one came from a Missouri Forestry auction. sat in a fire station for 30 years.

maingear
04-30-2014, 06:03 PM
A word about mating a 350 to a T98. I kept the T98 because its tough and I wanted to keep the PTO driven winch (PTO shaft-oily on the right, front drive shaft-green on the left). I bought an adapter kit with two plates. They had no orientation markings. No big deal except I was trying to use the 88 bellhousing and the holes didn't fit! Turns out it took an older pattern which required an older starter type. I added the 88 hydraulic clutch cylinders. It gave me more room when the linkage was removed.

Motor mounts bolted to the factory frame mounts. They were from something like a 60's truck, it attaches to the frame with a single bolt.

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/2660AC98-BD78-4F48-96B2-2262D40BAE90_zpsgicuyqqr.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/2660AC98-BD78-4F48-96B2-2262D40BAE90_zpsgicuyqqr.jpg.html)

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/3f40a9406c7f14bc573abefb45eb9b56_zpsbc579f32.jpg

(http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/3f40a9406c7f14bc573abefb45eb9b56_zpsbc579f32.jpg.h tml)

maingear
04-30-2014, 09:01 PM
Here is how it sits now with my buddy in it. (He has a 2000 Jeep TJ that is getting a 95 corvette engine this fall. His engine and trans came in last week.

I'm ready to get this truck finished!


http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/3e6eea5c5295f2fd9386ce40254cd32b_zps5a7c8a51.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/3e6eea5c5295f2fd9386ce40254cd32b_zps5a7c8a51.jpg.h tml)

I need some advice on a couple of things...

1. I read where vss helps driveability. On this combo I have to pull the speedo cable out of the New Process 200 transfer case and install a disk looking VSS pickup after a short speed cable (no room between xcase and body) and get a 3 3/4" generic gauge that will drive off this VSS signal. Does sound right?
2. Which heated O2 do I need to get for the 88 harness?
3. Has anyone experienced the mix of 1227747 with factory non 88 cam(will look the engine # up Saturday and post which cam is in it)?

Thanks,

Justin

blue68deville
04-30-2014, 10:38 PM
There's a vss that goes in-line with the speedo cable, I got mine from Jags That Run. Your original speedo cable attaches to it, it's a pass thru. I am using #1

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/SpeedSensors_Speedometer.html

Woods
05-01-2014, 01:41 AM
That's just fricking cool. Thanks for sharing.

billygraves
05-01-2014, 02:24 AM
................

billygraves
05-01-2014, 02:43 AM
....

Woods
05-01-2014, 02:49 AM
3. Has anyone experienced the mix of 1227747 with factory non 88 cam(will look the engine # up Saturday and post which cam is in it)?


Justin

I'm pretty sure this thread is the same build as what you are dealing with.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?930-Tuned-L31-Vortec-with-TBI-Heads-Intake

maingear
05-01-2014, 05:23 PM
There's a vss that goes in-line with the speedo cable……http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/SpeedSensors_Speedometer.html
The parts/information I was needing was in your link, chapter 12 filled in the blank for me, thank you!


I will be glad to help you. I sent you a PM so respond through that.
Done :thumbsup:


I'm pretty sure this thread.....
Perfect!


Seriously, where else can you find experts like this!?! Thank you all!

EagleMark
05-01-2014, 07:57 PM
I Think, if I remember right, the ECM you want to use will only transmit data in 10k mode. I would have to check. There are some things you should know BEFORE using the 10k mode.. like the mode blows away most internal closed loop timers, sets the timing advanced via 10 degrees and will induce engine stalling. This mode wa sfor the factory to test the ECM systems and combos and wanted this. It was never intended for use otherwise but it is.Not the 1227747, others do but not this one. It does not require 10K to record data, 10K actually messes up data as you stated.

No 10k put's out good data!

maingear
05-02-2014, 02:16 AM
Good! I have no idea what 10k is, just lucked out by using the 88 truck!

BTW -Here was the pump install
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?3203-Antique-Steel-In-Tank-Pump-Conversion

maingear
05-07-2014, 11:03 PM
Drives me nuts to only work on this on Saturdays!
I didn't want to tie up the lift all week, so i downed her in the corner.


http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/910821e538da3fe7c175bdf2ae40b922_zps0afc2a63.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/910821e538da3fe7c175bdf2ae40b922_zps0afc2a63.jpg.h tml)

I hate breaking down split rims! New tire beads are made to provide an air tight seal and seem to be thicker than the old bias tube type, they take for ever to push off the split ring, I am using a tire machine to break bead.

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/0d27e94b33094c8958e1a7cc475fa440_zps08845784.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/Maingear81/media/0d27e94b33094c8958e1a7cc475fa440_zps08845784.jpg.h tml)
Goofy bolt pattern with super huge hub make aftermarket replacement rims imposable to find. Custom cut rims this size would be too expensive!
Justin

maingear
05-18-2014, 06:24 PM
Still no wheels! The powder coat shop got flooded with orders for mothers day and they are still back logged.:rolleye:

Got the plug out by drilling. In true fashion the plug did not free itself until only the threads were left from drilling. Reinstalled header and shock tower.

Now for this rat's nest!
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/th_24599D8E-4319-4542-A230-398D5CBE49ED_zpsavojjonh.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/?action=view&current=24599D8E-4319-4542-A230-398D5CBE49ED_zpsavojjonh.jpg)

That's better!
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/th_29A68CD3-6735-43E6-B0A0-A4DF9A66C403_zps3tnszvcc.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/?action=view&current=29A68CD3-6735-43E6-B0A0-A4DF9A66C403_zps3tnszvcc.jpg)

Planning on mounting the ECU under the dash center of the cab so the glove box can be used.
now to do the final connections!

I forgot to label these connectors here's my guess:
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/th_DB97C7E7-502C-4706-8362-12B8FE09B6DF_zpsxwgmhsih.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/albums/y506/Maingear81/?action=view&current=DB97C7E7-502C-4706-8362-12B8FE09B6DF_zpsxwgmhsih.jpg)
Left to right.....
1.A/C Switch?
2. No Idea!
3. A/C switch?
4&5 go together?

Justin

Six_Shooter
05-18-2014, 07:02 PM
If you're planning on putting the coolant temp sensor for the EFI in the head you wasted your time, the best spot and the only one that really works reliably is in the intake manifold. Even for a temp gauge I do not recommend the head, the temp is usually biased by the fact that the combustion chamber is very near there and gives more of a head temp than a coolant temp.

I'm still not sure what this "cam issue" is that you or your local "guru" speak of. With good tuning it's possible to make even "non-efi friendly" cams work well with EFI. If you're using the stock Vortec cam then it will be a non issue.

I do agree that you should have kept the Vortec heads, the extra work/expense to use them is worth it.

lionelhutz
05-18-2014, 07:29 PM
The 1st connector looks like the knock sensor. Is it a dark blue wire?

The 2nd connector isn't a weatherpack so I doubt it's for anything related to the EFI.

The 3rd connector is for the oil pressure switch. It's a backup to the fuel pump relay so you don't need it but you may want it if you're afraid the relay will fail and leave you stranded.

No idea on the 4th and 5th connectors unless you post the wire colors.

As already posted, the Vortec heads would have been better. You can use a carb intake with an adapter plate. The EFI can be tuned for a different cam.

billygraves
05-19-2014, 01:15 AM
........

JeepsAndGuns
05-19-2014, 02:35 PM
Goofy bolt pattern with super huge hub make aftermarket replacement rims imposable to find. Custom cut rims this size would be too expensive!
Justin


You could run recentered hummer wheels. The centers can be found without much trouble, or even made if you have the equipment.

http://www.trailworthyfab.com/-250-12-Bolt-Hummer-Wheel-Special.html

http://www.wi4x4.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2953

Google is your friend. I just searched M715 hummer wheel center and those two links were at the top.