Six_Shooter's Money pit/Time Vampire

[Six_Shooter]

I bought my 1973 240Z from a guy in Richland Washington that had bought it with the intent of installing a SBC, but decided it was too small for him.


So after a couple months of flying out to see the car, finailing the deal, and getting the car shipped I had my 240Z home, and in need of some TLC to get road worthy.


It was a less than typical 240Z, brown (eww), Butterscotch interior (double Eww), and Automatic (tripple eww)! But it was solid underneath, and I got a good deal on it.


The first thing I did was swap out the brakes, since they were in desperate need of repair.


I decided on going 4 wheel disc, using Toyota 4 piston front calipers, and 280ZX rear disc set-up.


I also had some electrical repair work to do, to get everything working right.


The only pictures I seem to have of the exterior are after a couple months of driving it, so there are some changes that I had already made.


I had already added the Spook by this point.
http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/536130_10152160820035051_1628900102_n.jpg


http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/546423_10152160818910051_1245946581_n.jpg


Here is a picture of the rear, that I believe I took on the day I got it on the road, due to the old tires being on it, the mudflaps and a box of spare parts in the back, that came with the car when I purchased it.
http://domestic.3400z24.com/sixshooter/My vehicles/Datsun/Exterior/rear_no_plate sm.JPG


Tranny


Well after driving the Datsun for a month in auto tranny form, I got sick of not using my left foot, and just resting my hand on the shifter, though I had been shifting it manually...


I had also been able to locate the rest of the parts I needed, to complete the swap.


I started the swap about 2 PM on a Saturday, and had most of it done by about 8 PM, just a few details I couldn't finish in the dark.


Sunday came and didn't have much time and spent most of it trying to find a nut to install my solid front diff mount, which I could find and re-surfacing the exhaust flange to eliminate the exhaust leak I had there. Then family obligations meant no more time to work on the Z.


Monday I re-installed the exhaust, checked everything over, and then took it out for a drive. A manual Z is one billleeeeon times better than an auto Z. :D


I'm using a Centerforce Dual Friction, and it grabs HARD!! The tires screaming for traction going into 3rd made that apparent.


I was actually enjoying the L28 that's in this car, the auto just made that car a real dog, a real slow dog.


This tranny was a 4 speed, since I couldn't locate a 5-speed at that time.


On to the pics:


Not enough pedals:
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/46298_10152160850535051_595546992_n.jpg


Ahhh, that's better:
http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/536106_10152160849890051_1339685976_n.jpg


This shifter only moves forward and back:
http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/400860_10152160858300051_1731117466_n.jpg


This one also moves side to side.
http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/581447_10152160859810051_660875055_n.jpg


CFDF:
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/545813_10152160859035051_1716387563_n.jpg


This is where/how it was done:
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/546313_10152160860505051_1218998616_n.jpg




Now I have a manual Z, just like it should have been. :D


EFI and Turbocharging


When I first got my 240, it had Weber down draft carbs that had seen better days.
Here is the engine pretty much as it was when I received the car:
http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/5522_10152586441405051_1665434937_n.jpg


Well since I'm a fan of EFI and turbocharging I decided to play with the engine that was already in the car, which turned out to be an L28, F54 block, with a P90 head, N/A version from a 1981 or 1982 280ZX, is as far as I can narrow it down.


I started with an N47 intake, which I cut off excess parts and smoothed out, it was also modified to accept "O-ring" injectors, which are more common than the stock "barbed" injectors, and many more sizes available.
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/536352_10152160864540051_1439155043_n.jpg


http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/404617_10152160864680051_1193285068_n.jpg


I also had a throttle body adaptor made to use a GM 3400 throttle body. This is a 56mm TB and would also serve to house a compatible IAC motor and proper range TPS.
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/563168_10152586456730051_1437115489_n.jpg


Onto the turbo and exhaust:
I used a stock L28T exhaust manifold, and mated it to a Borg Warner turbo, pirated from a 6.5L diesel. This required the use of a small spacer between the manifold and turbine inlet. The wastegate actuator started as an actuator from a Pontiac Sunbird turbo, combined with some custom brackets and arms, it now controls the internal wastegate of the BW turbo. I chose that actuator, because I had one and it also opens at about 2 PSIG, giving me a large range of control over the pressures I am able to set. (Though I had to add external springs to get more than about 5 PSIG of intake pressure.)
http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/420249_10152586463535051_1261353545_n.jpg


the exhaust is 3" from downpipe to tip. All fitted and TIG welded by yours truely. :D
http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/551458_10152586382115051_1334444017_n.jpg


Muffler, a Moroso Spiro-flow and tip:
http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/541244_10152160613460051_25923580_n.jpg


Turning attention to the ECM and wiring:
I first had to chose a place to come thorugh the firewall with the wiring. I used a stock firewall feed through ("grommet" ), from a 1988 Chevy Cavalier, since it was part of the harness I already had, prviously installed in my 1985 GMC Jimmy, that had a turbo 3.2L V6.
http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/17087_10152586480460051_1020532701_n.jpg


Here is the ECM, which is in it's "easy to access" location. You can also see the grey "EMU cable" that attaches to my EPROM emulator to allow real time tuning.


http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/420328_10152586480560051_1826869377_n.jpg


I use a custom code called "Code59", which is a modified version of a stock GM code called "$58", which was originally used in the Syclones, Typhoons and Turbo Sunbirds. This allows for Wide Band O2 fuel control, extended VE and spark tables (up to 30 PSIG!) and many other refinements that the developers have done and they plan even more! (www.code59.org (http://www.code59.org) for more information.)


Working on the wiring:
http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/12989_10152586480575051_1969055115_n.jpg


(Mostly) Complete harness:
http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/399641_10152160865785051_1026478010_n.jpg


Fast forward to a running installation, which didn't have an intercooler, since I ran out of time, seeing as I got running the day before 2008 ZFest, and had a few other details to iron out. I had to turn the TB upside down due to the dizzy cap interfering with the TB linkage. I didn't really mind this since I was already planning on a DIS swap later on. (more on that later.)


http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/554469_10152160866750051_759178689_n.jpg


http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/427907_10152160866500051_331596415_n.jpg


I've skipped over a lot of details, like modifying a 280Z speedo to accept a GM optical Vehicle Speed Sensor, oil supply and return for the turbo, modification of the throttle pedal to use a GM throttle cable from a Buick Century (IIRC), using a GM ignition control module between the 280Z dizzy and the ECM, E-fan install, electric fuel pump and larger fuel pick up from the tank, along with many little brackets and adaptors to make it all work together. I also swapped in a 5-speed from a 1981 280ZX that I bought for parts in this time.


I was able to get it tuned and work well up to 10 PSIG, but the weather was turning cold and time to park it for the winter.

[Six_Shooter]

I decided to take the 240Z apart to do some up grades and other planned changes, but since my garage wasn't insulated (working on that), I didn't get a whole lot done when it was cold out, and then everyone wanted to me work on their vehicles (along with house hold chores), put the 240 on the back burner.


I had been able to get the DIS conversion almost done, just some wiring to the ECM and power are all that was left at that point.


I already had some parts that could be used for this conversion, due to needing to make an external crank position trigger system for my aformentioned GMC Jimmy. I retained the reluctor wheel and part of the CPS bracket, along with the ICM and coils.


I started by having my grandfather (A retired machinist) redrill the reluctor wheel to fit the Datsun harmonic balancer. I then went ahead and made a new base for the CPS mount, with some adjustablility built into it. ;)


http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/485360_10152586589145051_15531917_n.jpg


http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/574697_10152586584270051_559680245_n.jpg


Some of the parts:
http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/65551_10152586584565051_1378013297_n.jpg


The only glitch I've had was getting the stock (280Z) tach working with the DIS.


The tach, which I installed last year, worked with the dizzy set-up connected to the negitive side of the coil.


It seems that the output of the DIS module is too weak to trigger the 280Z tach (works fine with an Auto Meter tach), so a resistor needed to be bypassed inside the tach, now worked fine, until I hit about 5000 RPM, at which point the tach would either peg, or drop to zero. After doing some reading, I think this was due to the dwell of the tach signal getting too short at upper RPM for the tach to read correctly.


I got tired of the ECM sitting on the floor, so I found a place to mount the ECM, so that I could take passengers, and not worry about them kicking the ECM or cables.


The Brackets, which are made from textured ABS sheet:
http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/33984_10152586587955051_2067225720_n.jpg


Attached to the ECM:
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/47854_10152586587110051_1431894714_n.jpg


I cut the MEMCAL cover to allow for the EMU cable to come out of the ECM without being pinched:
http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/555775_10152586588455051_1382509016_n.jpg


Details of the ECM mounted:
http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/45774_10152586587765051_679476331_n.jpg


http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/16927_10152586587805051_1343752955_n.jpg


http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/71783_10152586588380051_555920992_n.jpg


And finally, the view the passenger will have of the ECM:
http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/487902_10152586588710051_1207713027_n.jpg




Interior


In the time I've had the 240Z, I've had a few gauges set-ups in.


Obviously I started with the original gauges, then I swapped the Amp gauge to a 280Z Volt meter. Swapped the 240 tach for a 280Z tach.


http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/420363_10152586591980051_472178839_n.jpg


I then wanted more information on my dash I swapped to this:


http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/47820_10152586409955051_743225449_n.jpg


I modified a quad gauge from a Turbo Sunbird GT gauge cluster, to fit into an original tach housing, this gave me, Oil pressure, Volts, Water Temp and Fuel Level. I then installed my boost gauge, a 2" tach and my AFR gauge into the trio location.


http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/75522_10152586410495051_1209060438_n.jpg


http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/427333_10152586606740051_577146387_n.jpg


I found that I really didn't like the small tach, part of that might have been due to the poor illumination of it, good thing it was a cheap tach to test the theory. The LEDs that I installed in the small tach (as seen here: [url=http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/76000_10152586608765051_147084713_n.jpg[/url] ) were too far out of my peripheral vision to be useful, at least during the day.


I decided to pull the rest of my Auto Meter gauges out of retirement, I Left the boost gauge where it was previously, I then installed the Oil Pressure and Water Temp gauges where the other trio gauges were. I gear clamped the volts and AFR gauges to my steering column and sat my fuel level gauge in the pocket left by leaving the fuse panel cover out of the car. I got sick of this ratty look, and decided to remove the radio, to install the 3 "loose" gauges into that location. I had other audio plans at the time.
I retained the 280Z tach for a while, then decided that I needed something that will keep reading above 5000 RPM, so I borrowed a Pro-Comp 5" "tattle-tale" tach from my Grandfather, that isn't being used in any other project. I installed this where the original tach would have been, and it fits snug, without any retaining hardware. I also installed an Auto Meter Shift (which is now triggered by the ECM), on a custom arm above the tach, on top of the dash.


http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/5625_10152586406595051_1734814666_n.jpg


http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/207253_10152586406500051_78654295_n.jpg


I am now looking for a new gauge set-up for a few reasons. According to my datalogging program, and my known thermostat temp, the water temp gauge reads about 10 degrees low, this is an annoying quirk to me. The Boost gauge might read about 2 PSIG low, but there is some question to the accuracy of the datalogging definition file in this specific data output, so I will need to do some other testing before I condemn my boost gauge. I also want a gauge set-up that illuminates the font, graduations and needle directly, instead of the "flood lighting" that the early Sport Comp gauges I have now uses. I also want a radio again, the iPod and computer speakers just aren't cutting it, and as a Car Audio/Electronic Accessory Installation Technician, I should have something better for sound in my car. ;)


I may go back to the Quad gauge where the tach was, and install a digital tach/shift light above the dash or in one of the trio gauge locations. I also have a couple other ideas.




Suspension


I have made some suspension changes, which include Tokico strut inserts, a solid front diff mount and aluminium torque arm bushings.


I have mostly suspension changes planned for this winter, along with getting to finishing off making the FMIC, relocating the air filter outside of the engine compartment and a few other changes.




Misc


Here is a picture from the track, before I turbo charged it.
http://domestic.3400z24.com/sixshooter/My vehicles/Datsun/Track/TMP 08/TMP launch 3.JPG


This is a picture of my girlfriend, and I at her brother's wedding, with the Datsun. Here you can see the 280ZX wheels I have on it currently.
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/425850_10152160828515051_1116574153_n.jpg




Thanks for looking and reading through, let me know what you think. :D

[Six_Shooter]

Just adding some random eye candy, this was when I removed my engine for some much needed maintenance as you can see from the pictures.

Getting the 2.8L out
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs312.ash2/59233_10150244626195051_651865050_14557407_532592_ n.jpg

Inspecting the timing chain, do you see a problem here?
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs612.snc4/59233_10150244626205051_651865050_14557409_4370419 _n.jpg

New timing chain installed
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs612.snc4/59233_10150244626200051_651865050_14557408_3000529 _n.jpg

Just some pictures of the piping just after the turbo, since people seem to ask about it.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs312.ash2/59233_10150244626210051_651865050_14557410_6548804 _n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs312.ash2/59233_10150244626215051_651865050_14557411_6475833 _n.jpg

The lowest point is the clamps.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs312.ash2/59233_10150244626220051_651865050_14557412_307386_ n.jpg

[Six_Shooter]

Here are some pictures of swapping from an R180 rear diff to an R200. In this post there are also some pictures of the 300ZX CV shafts that I installed at the same time.

Rear suspension brackets all sand blasted:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs628.snc4/58804_10150244624150051_651865050_14557385_4930924 _n.jpg

Brackets all painted:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs619.snc4/57920_10150244624210051_651865050_14557386_5784652 _n.jpg

No Diff or brackets:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs619.snc4/57920_10150244624215051_651865050_14557387_2588677 _n.jpg

R200 diff painted and cover re-installed:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs599.snc4/57920_10150244624220051_651865050_14557388_7267558 _n.jpg

R180 to R200 comparison:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs623.snc4/58315_10150244624275051_651865050_14557389_3335181 _n.jpg

R200 and brackets all installed:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs623.snc4/58315_10150244624280051_651865050_14557390_6975774 _n.jpg

CV joint swap:

Welded CV plates to original companion flanges:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs208.ash2/47115_10150244625990051_651865050_14557402_3102813 _n.jpg

Close of up my TIG welding: :D
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs428.snc4/47115_10150244625985051_651865050_14557401_6120072 _n.jpg

Just a picture of the modified flanges with a stock one:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs208.ash2/47115_10150244625995051_651865050_14557403_1329322 _n.jpg

CV shaft installed:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs312.ash2/59233_10150244626180051_651865050_14557404_185707_ n.jpg

I decided to add a proper crankcase EVAC bung to the inlet to to the turbo, especially since I was replacing the filter and didn't want to drill a hole in this one for the hose like I had in the last one:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs612.snc4/59233_10150244626190051_651865050_14557406_8033009 _n.jpg

Inside:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs312.ash2/59233_10150244626185051_651865050_14557405_4074537 _n.jpg

MMMmmmmmmm
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs312.ash2/59233_10150244626225051_651865050_14557413_7321052 _n.jpg

I am still working on this:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs308.ash2/58794_10150244625925051_651865050_14557400_1650938 _n.jpg

The gears, new timing chain, and maybe the new filter have really changed the way this drives, it needed a new tune, pretty badly.

[Six_Shooter]

Some videos of the 240.

Here is a run at TMP, when it was still carburated and naturally aspirated.
http://vimeo.com/14046600

Minutes before I started taking the carburators off:
http://vimeo.com/14022041

Running on EFI, turbocharged and had just completed the DIS ignition swap:
http://vimeo.com/14016010

[Six_Shooter]

Moar piktarz!....

I built a "CAI" for my car, since my intake temps would soar when I was in boost and would even be higher than I liked while cruising. When I made the small extension to move the filter from the turbo down and forward about 10" it really helped, so getting it right out of the engine bay should help even more, and it has.

CAI welded up, but raw:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs635.snc4/59531_10150247000325051_651865050_14621526_2474988 _n.jpg

Another view:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs615.snc4/59531_10150247000330051_651865050_14621527_4597590 _n.jpg

Painted:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs615.snc4/59531_10150247000320051_651865050_14621525_4858922 _n.jpg

Installed:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs432.snc4/47545_10150247000115051_651865050_14621523_5278462 _n.jpg

Installed:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs619.snc4/57963_10150247011125051_651865050_14621733_949091_ n.jpg

Connection in engine bay:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs619.snc4/57963_10150247011120051_651865050_14621732_297085_ n.jpg

Behind airdam:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs615.snc4/59531_10150247000315051_651865050_14621524_3607487 _n.jpg

Intercooler fab pics: :D

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs315.ash2/59531_10150247000335051_651865050_14621528_7858728 _n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs315.ash2/59531_10150247000340051_651865050_14621529_6700801 _n.jpg

Some test fitting:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs307.ash2/58714_10150247000420051_651865050_14621530_4078733 _n.jpg

More progress on this:
:D
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs430.snc4/47285_10150247011000051_651865050_14621730_6855319 _n.jpg

[EagleMark]

Wow I guess you've had that a long time? A friend of mine got one for high scool graduation in 76 or 77 and still has it. The only car he ever owned... but it was silver with Black interior...

[Six_Shooter]

I received it March of 2008, I paid for it February of 2008 and found the listing for it in January of 2008. I had it shipped to me, from Richland Washington, which is about 2500 miles away.

So, yeah I've had it for a little while, but not that long to me. I had hoped to be farther along in the project by now.

I'm hoping to get some new pictures in the next couple of days of the FMIC installed and some other parts.

[Six_Shooter]

Well, time for some updated pictures.

Long overdue pictures of the FMIC installed:

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/200178_10150417694935051_651865050_17576605_803311 3_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/198892_10150417695130051_651865050_17576608_713891 5_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/189806_10150417695190051_651865050_17576609_537992 5_n.jpg

Just a picture of how the outside currently looks. I really need to get onto improving this.
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/197656_10150417695875051_651865050_17576614_532103 1_n.jpg

[Lucky]

Considering the paint/body on my projects I don't dare tell you to paint yours :lol:

I always did like that body style. The new chin piece is a nice addition

[Six_Shooter]

Yeah, I really think the air dam updates the look, which is really what I'm going for in the end.

[Six_Shooter]

Ahh, first drive of the year, oh so good. :D

[EagleMark]

I forgot what it was like to put a toy car up for the winter. Since I moved here to Idaho I had gotten into 4x4 trucks and just keep going all year. No salt use here though!

[Six_Shooter]

This is a car I "built" in Forza 3.

It's similar to what I want in the end, but with some of the body modifications I will be doing. I also want wider tires and slightly different colour wheels, but Forza only lets you do so much. lol

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/208048_10150532913775051_651865050_18025426_638477 9_n.jpg

[Six_Shooter]

Well, the car has been jackstand racing for a while, and I'm finally getting somewhere with it. The rear brake and 5 lug swap is nearly complete. I turned down the rotors from 290mm to 280mm tonight to fit with the brackets, caliper hangers and calipers I have on hand. I'll have to measure the old rotors, but I think that's still an inch larger than the old ones.

The front is almost as complete, but ran into a slight snag with the flex lines. The lines I was planning to use are a few days to get, and would be coming from two different warehouses. That means with my luck, I will only receive 1 of them by next week. I'm trying to get the car together again for the 24th, since that's the Brantford Downtown annual car show. So I'm looking at alternate flex lines to use.

Piktarz suun.

[Six_Shooter]

Everyone loves piktarz!

Rear all assembled, before detailing.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/285257_10150714592635051_651865050_19704580_506879 3_n.jpg

Front bracket to support Z31 NA caliper, using the Z31 Hub and brake disc without a spacer between the hub rotor. I still need to cut the upper brake caliper mount off, so that the new caliper will fit. lol
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281748_10150714592455051_651865050_19704578_771144 5_n.jpg

[Six_Shooter]

Well, the rear is all together, painted and tightened.

I just need to finish the front, which I figure should take about an hour to an hour and a half. :D

[Lucky]

So is it posi now ?

[Six_Shooter]

So is it posi now ?


No, still peg leg, but the posi is very high up on the list. I'm hoping to be able to get the parts situated so that the car will only be down for the amount of time I'm working on it, to swap it over.

[Six_Shooter]

A few pictures:

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/254737_10150724032980051_651865050_19829254_672697 6_n.jpg

Oh noes, point of no return, cut off that pesky brake caliper mounting ear...
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/285591_10150724032925051_651865050_19829253_771799 6_n.jpg

Z31 NA Front brakes and hub on an S30:
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/225756_10150724033095051_651865050_19829258_205231 0_n.jpg

A shot from behind:
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282477_10150724032875051_651865050_19829251_23108_ n.jpg

Still on jack stands, but the wheels bolted on:
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/267205_10150724033170051_651865050_19829259_775274 8_n.jpg

[EagleMark]

Corvette wheels?

[Six_Shooter]

300ZX wheels, 1986 IIRC.

I'll have more pictures in a bit.

[Six_Shooter]

Front view this morning, after the initial drive.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/185496_10150724937450051_651865050_19845372_173527 4_n.jpg

A couple pictures from the Telephone City Car show today:
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/226082_10150724931785051_651865050_19845324_132744 4_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/189230_10150724936230051_651865050_19845362_364009 1_n.jpg

[Six_Shooter]

A few more pictures from the Car show. These were taken by a guy I know that runs High Impact Imagery.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/250105_10150328487303475_259329788474_9576061_5850 385_n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/223941_10150328629068475_259329788474_9578080_3692 097_n.jpg

[Six_Shooter]

Well, I pulled 4 gauges out of the car tonight, in preparation of relocating/replacing a couple and installing a radio again.

[Six_Shooter]

Well, I found one issue tonight, when I had the car on the hoist...

My right rear wheel was rubbing on the spring perch of the strut. :/

It seems that all of my test fitting was done with the wheel that has ended up on the left rear of the car, since it was a narrower tire (same size in numbers 225/50/16), but the rest of the tires were wider at the sidewall.

So for a quick fix for now, I bought some 5mm thick spacers.

[Six_Shooter]

Hell must be a bit chilly this evening...

I started to do some body work on the 240Z....

Well, even what I did would still be considered more on the modification side than repair....

I filled the antenna hole and filled the driver side 1/4 vent hole. I didn't have to time to do the passenger side yet, either I'll head back later and do it, or do it tomorrow night.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/215030_10150740316480051_651865050_20052433_401952 5_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/185463_10150740316365051_651865050_20052431_214233 9_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/215057_10150740316775051_651865050_20052437_522745 _n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/229660_10150740316645051_651865050_20052434_229139 _n.jpg

One day it will be one colour. lol

[EagleMark]

Pretty cool Ol Z under that Nasty paint and rust! :innocent2:

You know your on the final streatch when you start doing body work and paint. :thumbsup:

I've had my 73 Scout for 3 years now and so far I have changed the oil, washed and waxed it, put on a soft top and driven it 600 miles. It is bone stock with 66K miles. Never had a stock vehicle in my life. So far I have collected a four speed close ratio trans for street with a 2 speed Dana 20 transfer case to replace the single speed transfer case and tree speed. 2 sets of bucket seats, one high back one low back to replace the bench (that is origanal and perfect) dana 44 to replace the dana 30 front end, power disc brakes to replace the manual drum, power steering to replace the manual, stock AC system, stock title wheel, 4.0L HO head and a 2002 aluminumtuned port MPFI intake for the 358 six cylinder and a few other things. Been afraid to ruin the value. Then being broke and book is between $10K and $15K I put it on eBay starting at $4k and never got a bid... so the hell with stock value I am starting to redesign it the way I want this week it begins with Power Steering!!!! Guess I will have to start a build thread!

[Six_Shooter]

Oh this isn't home stretching... far, far, far from it.

Eventually the car will be torn down to the basic chassis, put on a spit and a bunch of reinforcement added, along with a bunch of parts changed.

I'm only starting the body work, because the way it looks is really starting to get to me. lol

[gregs78cam]

We have a '78 280Z that is the original black, which we think makes it a Black Pearl, but we're not sure. I doesn't have the Sports Appearance Package, but from what I have read some were optioned without it. We don't know what to do with it. Would like to sell it as we have more than enough projects on the list. But I think an LS-whatever would be a good swap if I had the money.

[Six_Shooter]

Uhg, I hate the LS swaps...

There are a LOT of LSx swapped S30s...

It is rather boring...

Much like the SBC swaps used to be... In anything...

Adding the turbo and EFI to the L28 is MORE than enough power and torque for these cars. That being said I will be swapping to a V6 that I hope to make more power with, but that's only because I can.

If I just wanted a driver, to have fun with, I do exactly what I've already done.

[EagleMark]

Yeah but just like there were plenty of left over 350s years ago, then all the high performance parts came around, the time is now and for the next 10 years there will be plenty of LS motors all over the place. The 350 era is over and LS era has begun.

I like what you did to the motor. Unique! :thumbsup:

[Six_Shooter]

Well, I installed a couple gauges that I used to have in the car, to replace a couple of the Autometer gauges, that I grew tired of...

The car also got an altitude change.

Pics tomorrow. :D

[Six_Shooter]

Stock springs:

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/285409_10150744177610051_651865050_20099492_258571 5_n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284814_10150744175290051_651865050_20099439_343727 9_n.jpg

Eibach springs:

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/263259_10150744207080051_651865050_20100123_792470 _n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/283069_10150744174990051_651865050_20099434_251196 _n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281219_10150744174655051_651865050_20099430_155899 7_n.jpg

It's subtle difference in ride hight, but has made a huge difference in handling.

[Six_Shooter]

No pics, but the 240 is losing it's multi-colour status! :o

[Six_Shooter]

Some pics of less multi-colour.... lol

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/294535_10150783264925051_651865050_20572719_485151 _n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/298013_10150783265125051_651865050_20572720_204669 0_n.jpg

[Six_Shooter]

I don't think I've mentioned it, but I had a boost problem. It seems I probably had this problem longer than I realized.

I noticed it earlier this year, when I tried to turn up the boost from 12 PSIG to 15 PSIG, that it stayed at 12 PSIG. :confused:

Checked a few things over, eventually wired my wastegate closed with some mechanics wire, but the problem still persisted. I knew the mechanics wire wasn't keeping it sealed, but it seemed to hold it almost closed, enough that I figured it would allow boost to build higher than 12 PSIG at high RPM. I had been considering that my couplings between the turbo and TB might be leaking, or the IC was leaking from somewhere, thinking that maybe the turbo really was too big, but then it should have spooled to the 5 PSIG even later. :mad1:

Apparently, it wouldn't and after installing a heavy spring on the wastegate tonight, I pulled out of the driveway at work, then hit the gas in a slightly spirited fashion, I happened to be looking in the direction of my boost gauge, when I saw it spring around to about 12 PSIG and my shift light came on!! :confused1: It never did that, it just kinda slowly climbed up to that point, and it took a fair amount of time to get the shift light on, even in first, this was almost instant. Woo-HA! So I drove around a bit and checked to make sure that was actually the case.

Let me tell you 15 PSIG of boost on this 2.8L is a phenomenally fun. THIS was the reason I put the turbo on this car. I was seriously considering my planned engine swap for this winter, even though I didn't really have time for it. I've just been disappointed with the performance of it recently. It was still decently quick, just not that hard hitting surge of power I've been trying to get.

Now... OMG, so much fun, hard hitting, slam you into the seat, everything goes to a blur fun... :rockon:

[EagleMark]

all that and it was just a spring?

You still getting enough fuel with all that boost that's working now?

[Six_Shooter]

Yeah, the wastegate was being pushed open by the exhaust pressure. Which isn't really that surprising, since generally, exhaust pressure in a turbo vehicle pre-turbine is usually around 2 times the intake pressure. So that means that exhaust pressure would be around 24 PSIG with the 12 PSIG intake pressure, and around 30 PSIG exhaust pressure, when intake pressures hit 15 PSIG. The wastegate actuator I used is pretty lightly sprung, so it doesn't take much pressure to push the wastegate flapper open. I did have a spring on it before, but it appears it was too light and allowing the wastegate to crack under just exhaust pressure. The new spring is much heavier, and seems to be holding the wastegate closed up to around 15 PSIG anyway. I'll have to plug in the laptop to see what the wastegate duty cycle is to make sure it's the ECM controlling the boost and not still just spring pressure.

The fuel I'm not 100% sure on, I wasn't really paying attantion to my AFR display at the time. :innocent2: I know the VE table looks good up to that point, probably on the rich side like it is below that boost level.

[EagleMark]

So what was AFR?

Rich is good! that way you still have a motor left to tune!

A freind of mine in childhood got a brand new 240Z on his 17th birthday 1978?. Or was that a 260Z? His brother was 17 the year before and got a used 1969 Ram Air GTO... he was showing me how fast it was, when he shifted to second he should have been stopping for the stop sign... that was my first accedent as a passenger... totalled a showroom condition GTO. it was actaully fine from doors back... same with the other car, no one was hurt... the cars met in intersection right front bumper to left front bumper... then we changed direction and I was face to face with the girl driving the other car...

I had to go back to NJ for my sisters funeral 2009 and found him still driving the Z. Never had another car in his life.

[Six_Shooter]

Well, went to the drag strip tonight. I have a better time than last time out, just not quite as quick as I would have liked to see.

Best pass was a 13.741 @ just over 105 MPH. I had a few passes over 106 MPH as well.

I've finally broke into the 3 digit MPH. My truck when it was together with a 3.2L V6 turbo and poorly "tuned" if it can even be called that would run 99.9, 99.8, 99.7, 99.8, 99.8 MPH, but never actually break into the 100 MPH range. :-\ The Datsun last time out had a best MPH of 98.something, again just shy of breaking 100 MPH. Tonight I did it though. :D

It needs a littel work, it was breaking up at the top of the gear like I've seen for a while now, but just couldn't really tune that on the street, since I would be breaking the highway speed limit before getting through second gear. :-\ I added more timing, since I know my timing is conservative and it pulled harder through the gears, but still breaking up a little. I think I will also benefit from a taller gear. I short shifted one pass, ran a slower time because of it, but I think it was my best MPH of the night, but I'll have to go through my slips to see. Good thing I have a set of 3.54s to go in it. ;)

I know there's still more left in it.

[EagleMark]

Change the spark plugs and the top end break up will go away for awhile... we used to get 4 runs on a set of plugs at track, pulled and running clean but would start to break up top RPM.

[Six_Shooter]

Change the spark plugs and the top end break up will go away for awhile... we used to get 4 runs on a set of plugs at track, pulled and running clean but would start to break up top RPM.

No, it was from drowning the engine in fuel, I added timing and it went away, or at least reduced a lot. I know my timing is very conservative in the top end, and I should be able to add plenty more, I'm just sneaking up on it right now.

[Six_Shooter]

Well, the tranny finally broke in the tranny, no 1st or 2nd gear. :doh:

[EagleMark]

Next time your at the track, make a run and if breaking up at high RPM? Change plugs! Now take a run.

Don't feel bad. I got done tuning a freinds Big Block Mopar. Put the final chip in for a test drive and the driveshaft broke about half way through first gear... OK, I'm done! :innocent2:

[Six_Shooter]

Next time your at the track, make a run and if breaking up at high RPM? Change plugs! Now take a run.

Don't feel bad. I got done tuning a freinds Big Block Mopar. Put the final chip in for a test drive and the driveshaft broke about half way through first gear... OK, I'm done! :innocent2:

Mark, you're obviously not understanding what I'm saying.

My timing tables are extremely conservative, compared to what other people are running in similar combinations. I'm 8 to 10 degrees less than what they are running in the top end. So much so that my AFRs go real rich. Last night I started adding timing and my AFRs started dropping at those same points. It's not a spark plug issue, it's a spark timing issue.

[EagleMark]

Oh OK!

But, if you still break up top end on track night have a new set of plugs and try it!

Like I said earlier, I learned on a carburated LARGE CAM Big Block Chevy 1/4 mile race car. 11 second car. We got 4 runs out of spark plugs. Pulled, looked perfect, put back in and broke up for another few runs, put in new ones and got 4 more 1/4 mile runs... back then we found out other racers had the same issue... they walked over and told us... this would be early 80's. Don't know if racers are having the same issues today? Top fuel is one run but then after one run they need an engine rebuild too...

[Six_Shooter]

Well, I pulled the tranny and pulled it apart. I don't think I did too bad at an hour and a half to get the car off it's wheels (onto jack stands), and have the tranny apart so that I can stare at a broken 1-2 shift fork and decide that there is no way for me to fix that before 7 AM. :sad:

[EagleMark]

on a Sunday... :innocent2:

[Six_Shooter]

Well, I swapped the 1-2 and 3-4 shift forks from a 4 speed, since they are steel. The 5 speed tranny originally had aluminum shift forks, which would probably be fine for someone who doesn't power shift their tranny.... That doesn't describe me at all. LOL

I'll re-install it in the car tomorrow night and then take it for a few laps. :)

[Six_Shooter]

The 240 is back together and on it's wheels. I'll take it out for a few laps tonight to see how it is.

[EagleMark]

:jfj:

[Six_Shooter]

My car hates me.....

While tranny feels better than ever, the diff, at least I suspect it's the diff is now making noises. :mad1:

[EagleMark]

Sounds like you need a new PCM with tourque control. :laugh:

[Six_Shooter]

I've had a boost control problem for a little bit.... again.... arg!


So I decided to install the additional wastegate springs a little more elegantly. I bought a package of new springs and made an additional arm to mount to the wastegate lever.


Original install, I started removing them before I took the picture:
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/598470_10151832118875051_1880808609_n.jpg


Arm:
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/556127_10151832117645051_1577479857_n.jpg


http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/182296_10151832117775051_1559995865_n.jpg


Test fitting:
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/246441_10151832119175051_824245512_n.jpg


I decided that since two springs came in a package, that installing one spring just wouldn't be enough, so cut a little more metal, drill a couple more holes...
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/575187_10151832117935051_1682289360_n.jpg


http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/547337_10151832118250051_1001480350_n.jpg


I <3 b00st:
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/550860_10151832118455051_1814100953_n.jpg


http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/579993_10151832119030051_1017600482_n.jpg


So far, it's working better. I hit a solid 15 PSIG, which is what the ECM is programmed to control the boost at. I haven't held it there for long, but will test more probably tomorrow, to make sure that it's good.

[EagleMark]

Just a thought... mark that bracket where it bots on to be able to see if it is moving over time? The way it is pulling looks to be tightening the bolt which is good but no notch on the bolt or bracket it could still move from that position.

Nice to see somone can still make stuff!

[Six_Shooter]

There are two nuts, one sets up the distance to hold the wastegate actuator rod and the spring arm on, tight enough to have litte slop, loose enough to move freely, the other is a jamb nut. I've been running this set-up sans the spring arm for 4 years, it's never come loose or given me problems. I don't expect it to start now. ;)

[EagleMark]

Figured you had it covered but just thought I'mention what I saw, now I understand how it works that would not be an issue.

That's quite a bit more spring! Was it fluttering before?

[Six_Shooter]

Exhaust pressure was opening the wastegate flapper before it should have been. It seems to work much better with the new springs.

I really need to put a higher rated actuator on it, but this is easier. lol

[Six_Shooter]

Took these about an hour ago:


http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282917_10151856649300051_1687516195_n.jpg


http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/562140_10151856649845051_74641368_n.jpg

[fasteddi]

Read through most of the thread. Nice sixshooter. Very very nice as you just don't see many of them anymore (Datsun 240z), or at least where I live. :thumbsup:

[Six_Shooter]

Thanks man.

You don't see many anywhere.

I do know of 3 others in my city, one is just around the corner from my Grandparents place, but have only seen it for the first time yesterday, in the garage, another is a friend of mine's and the 3rd one has been sitting at a lot for a construction place for 3 years, I want both of them. LOL

[EagleMark]

Look in Spokane CL, there are several, but I think 260Z... no salt down here...

[Six_Shooter]

I need to update this thread with some of the changes I've made, but for now, I will post these pictures. Ok, they are not really of the 240Z, but they are related.

http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3859&d=1370232111

http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3860&d=1370232111

http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3861&d=1370232111

[EagleMark]

I need to update this thread with some of the changes I've made, but for now, I will post these pictures. Ok, they are not really of the 240Z, but they are related.

http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3859&d=1370232111

http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3860&d=1370232111

http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3861&d=1370232111Can't see the pictures?

Been a long tiome since I saw your car I went back to first page and there's a lot of pictures missing?

[Six_Shooter]

Hmm, I wonder if the site updates (where the pictures are hosted) recently have messed with linking.

I know most of the older pictures won't work, because they were hosted on Facebook, and their updates have screwed with linking.

[Six_Shooter]

Try this:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/425197_10152883444180051_1972198749_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/936011_10152883444125051_1324372858_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/582002_10152883444210051_1524005323_n.jpg

[EagleMark]

Hmm, I wonder if the site updates (where the pictures are hosted) recently have messed with linking. Nothing changed here. But your links were from another forum and sometimes they won't work.

Cool RC! :thumbsup:

[1project2many]

A very stock sounding 280Z turbo passed me on the highway yesterday. I was driving the Toyota and the thought crossed my mind to play around. It would have been fun. Then I remembered the leather couch on the back of the truck and decided maybe not.

[Six_Shooter]

280Z with a turbo would not be stock. ;) the turbo version was introduced in the 280ZX, which is a completely different body style, though theres is a resembalance.

I figured I would update and post that that over the last few weeks I have been playing with differerent code in my car. I used $58, with great success, and as of earlier today, I have ran $12P in my car, which is Australian code that will run in the '165. I made an adapter harness, that I will post pictures of when I vet a chance.

[34blazer]

280Z with a turbo would not be stock. ;) the turbo version was introduced in the 280ZX, which is a completely different body style, though theres is a resembalance.

I figured I would update and post that that over the last few weeks I have been playing with differerent code in my car. I used $58, with great success, and as of earlier today, I have ran $12P in my car, which is Australian code that will run in the '165. I made an adapter harness, that I will post pictures of when I vet a chance.

Nice! high speed datalogging, or is that just with the '808?

[delcowizzid]

good to see you got it driving six shooter
yes it has highspeed logging on 165 and even higher speed logging with the custom definable message 6 aldl logging of only important parameters while tuning.

[Six_Shooter]

The logging seems to be even quicker to refresh than standard 8192, which is great.

I'm back on $59 for now, since I have it more closely tuned than $12P, and I have a show to go to today.

[1project2many]

280Z with a turbo would not be stock. ;)

No. It wouldn't. Which is why I really wanted to play around and see if it was just a transplant or if there was more under the hood.

[Six_Shooter]

Well, I've made some pretty large changes recently. I've been working on this for a while, but just started the switch over on Friday.

So earlier this summer I decided it was time to swap an LX9 into my car. I got another one from the local wreckers, along with some other parts.

I started by building some of the parts needed to install and attach parts to the engine, to get it ready for the swap. Things like alternator mount, headers, modified front cover, etc, etc.

The plan was to swap in the new engine over my holiday week, since the shop (where I work) was not being used, and had 10 days to use the hoist. That didn't work out...

My original plan was to keep the original (type) trans that was already in the car. A little more back story, the car was originally automatic when I got it, then swapped in a 4 speed manual, then a 5 speed manual, both manual transmissions were either what would have been it in originally (the 4 speed) or direct replacement/upgrade (the 5 speed). Anyway. I did some measuring for clutch depth and such and it seemed like it was going to work perfectly, depth wise anyway. So I made an adapter plate, but then noticed that the depth didn't look right when I placed the adapter plate on the back of the LX9. Measure again and sure enough I was off. *facepalm*

Note of advice, make sure you only remove the width of the ruler used for making a straight edge once, not twice... So my depth measurement was off by 25mm :/

Back to the drawing board

So I remembered that the 2.8/3.1/3.4 in the F-body used a thicker flywheel, so off to research if it was thick enough. I found one picture online that looked like the flywheel would be a very promising part. It was Sunday of my holidays week, so I couldn't find one that day and figured I'd get one the next day from the wreckers. Think again. Arg!
There was ONE in Ontario, at another wreckers not too far away, but it was still in the car and they were "short staffed". So I waited, until Wednesday when it finally arrived. Great, I can continue on and hopefully be able to get the engine in.

Nope.

As I test fit the thicker flywheel, it became apparent that the increased diameter was too large for the trans I had planned to use. Arg! What to do?

Plan C, maybe D by now. I had waiting in the wings another trans that I had planned to swap in at a later date. I decided to explore the option to put it in now, even though I didn't have a clutch, shifter or driveshaft for it. Turned out that the bellhousing was large enough for the flywheel, the input shaft is IDENTICAL to the old transmission (Thank you Nissan for keeping some things the same!). Make a new adapter plate, for this different trans. It was Friday of the holidays before I got the engine and trans mated, so I decided it was too late to take the car apart. :(

Engine and trans mated for the first time:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7587&d=1407159201

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7588&d=1407159201

So now I just needed a shifter and driveshaft. Driveshaft was pirated from a Nissan 4runner, because they use the same trans, though configured a little differently, but still no shifter. New one is $148 from Nissan, and I would have needed to modify it before I installed it anyway, due to chassis fitment. I also didn't like where the shifter would end up in the shifter hole and I knew I wanted to push the trans back farther than when it is mated to the L28 in these cars. So What to do? Make a shifter using parts from a 4-speed trans original to the car, why not? lol

So now I have a clutch (Which still needs some verification on exactly how I'm going to piece the clutch and pressure plate together. More on that later.), a driveshaft to use for the yoke, and a home made shifter.

Not complete, since it seems I don't have any pictures of it done, but you get the idea:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7589&d=1407159201

This might just work

So there is a civic holiday here in Canada, on the first weekend in August. It's not a mandatory holiday, so some places stay open, other places do not, luckily, we do not. So I decide that as of Friday of that weekend it would be go time for the swap. That's this past Friday, for those keeping track.

The car comes apart pretty typically. I was trying to drop the entire driveline out the bottom of the car, but due to the engine sitting at quite an angle, this proved to be more difficult than it was worth, so out the engine crane comes and the engine and trans are removed through the top. I then remove the front crossmember, so that I could lower the car over the new engine and trans.

I HAVE to see the new drivetrain sitting between the frame rails before I go home. Keep in mind I've already mocked up the LX9 in teh car a few years previously, when I pulled the L28 for some maintenance, so I know basically what it's going to look like, but I need to see the headers, and the belt system in there, I just have to.

Oh yeah, I like it

It looks great in there, and it looks like I will be able to push it back as far as I would like.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7590&d=1407159201

It's still on the engine dolly at this point and decide to use a chain between the trans mounts and the engine support to lift the car up and really inspect what I'm going to need to do for mounts.

But I think this is where I should make it a new post for a new day...

[Six_Shooter]

The Next Day

So now it's Saturday morning in our story.

After contemplating what I was going to do about the trans mounts over night, since I discovered that there is a physics issue with the transmission and the car itself, only one object can occupy the same space at a time. The trans is just freaking HUGE, compared to the old trans. I decided the night before to cut out the old mounts and make new, since I didn't really have a choice, and even trimming the old ones wouldn't have been enough. If I wanted to leave the engine and trans more forward I could have made it work, but that just wasn't an option to me.

I get the grinder with a cutting disc out and start cutting away the driver side mount.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7591&d=1407159840

Point of no return:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7592&d=1407159840

I spent most of the day designing and fabricating the new mounts.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7593&d=1407159840

Sunday, Bloody Sunday

I then moved onto boxing the old mount brace and then tying the new mounts to the old mount brace.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7594&d=1407159840

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7595&d=1407159840

New mounts tied to old mount brace:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7601&d=1407160133

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7602&d=1407160133

Notice that the right side tie in plate has a notch, yeah, that's to clear the VSS, and if I hadn't put that notch there, the trans would not have fit. It's THAT close to the brace. I'm contemplating notching that brace a little more to give a little more clearance, just for peace of mind.

More lift and support

Happy with how the trans mount has turned out, I move onto the front mount. Now here is where I break from conventional wisdom in a typical longitudinal layout. Most people would make some plates that attach to the side of the engine block and then tie them into the existing mount pads, or a new crossmember. Not me, nope, I'm going a different route.

Go back to how the LX9 is mounted in a transverse application. There is a mount attached to the oil pan, just below the crank pulley. I like this idea because I can remove the mount pedestals from the crossmember and open that area up for other things.

I had planned for this weeks ago and bought a universal Energy Suspension mount that looked like it should work. I had fabricated the plate that attaches to the oil pan a few weeks ago, in preparation. Now to finish it off and make something to attach it to the car...

Some time later:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7596&d=1407159840

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7597&d=1407159840

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7598&d=1407159840


Comparison of modified crossmember to original crossmember (With steering and lower A-arms still attached):
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7599&d=1407159840

And the engine supported by the car.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7600&d=1407159840

Tomorrow I will be making some struts to keep the engine upright, since I only have the two mounts holding the driveline right now.

Here's that Tight VSS clearance.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7603&d=1407160664

Here is a picture of the engine to trans adapter I made, remember this is the second one, the first one will become wall art, to remind me to make proper measurements and calculations. lol

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7604&d=1407160664

[Six_Shooter]

How it was sitting as of Sunday night:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7605&d=1407164044

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=7606&d=1407164044

:rockon:

[buddrow]

I need to dig up the pics of the LS/260 conversion my brother and I did. I really like your v6 swap, might have to look into that for the next one. :)

Buddrow


Edit:added photo

[Xfirez51]

Boy this really brings back memories. I owned a 73 Z in 1974 having traded in my 72 Corvette coupe for it. I was impressed with how smooth the straight six was when compared to the SBC. And it didn't run out of breath past 80mph.
It was the same color combo as you have here, however it was a manual w a set of "phony" wire wheels.

[Six_Shooter]

Looks like I got way behind on updating this thread, I'll get it updated soon.

[tayto]

updates?

[Six_Shooter]

updates?

Yes, it's time to add more to this thread...


Some detail of the front mount:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8649&d=1426509176

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8650&d=1426509176

First attempt at a support strut, but the strut tower proved to be weaker than I had thought it was going to be.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8651&d=1426509176

This is what I ended up doing, but will probably replace it since it's not perfect, and would prefer something with some rubber/urethane bushings.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8652&d=1426509176

So then I moved onto some turbo plumbing work, turbo mounted:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8653&d=1426509176

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8654&d=1426509176

Support bracket for the turbo:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8655&d=1426509176

Headers and Y-pipe basically done:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8656&d=1426509176

[Six_Shooter]

So then I moved onto some other detail work, starting with the crank trigger.

A little crank trigger mount modification, This is the same basic set-up I used on my Jimmy years ago, but I moved the base of the mount forward to clear the oil pan. In the Jimmy I was able to hammer some clearance, which I didn't like at the time, but it was my best option. This time I decided to move the mount base and shorten the slider.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8657&d=1426510148

I also pulled the oil filter adapter off, originally to see about adding a port to it to feed the turbo, but I found a better solution for that, half way through. Anyway, while it was off, I decided to make an improvement.

Original:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8658&d=1426510148

Smoothed out:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8659&d=1426510148

Added a flex joint to the Y-pipe:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8660&d=1426510148

I changed the oil pan to one I had modified for oil drain back provisions, and was happy to see the bottom end was as clean as the top had been.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8661&d=1426510148

I was able to get a clutch in the car as well.

I ended up using the entire clutch from my L28 in this set-up. I originally thought I would have to use, or could have used the pressure plate from my Jimmy, but it would have been too tall. So I found that there was a 2mm difference in diameters of the bolt patterns for each pressure plate. I decided to drill out the holes in the pressure plate larger and then added a couple dowels made from some bolts to help keep the pressure plate located properly.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8662&d=1426510148

I then moved on to finishing the bellhousing modification I had started a few weeks ago to clear the starter:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8663&d=1426510148

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8664&d=1426510148

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8665&d=1426510148

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8666&d=1426510148

I'll add more in a day or two.

[Six_Shooter]

Update for anyone interested...

This is the part of the day where I actually laughed, possibly even chortled a little.

I needed to come up with a custom driveshaft for this set-up, since the new trans uses a very different and much larger output spline than the original trans. I did some preliminary measuring a few weeks ago, going off outside dimensions of some driveshafts I had, one that fit the trans, and a few that would be either original or some vehicle between. It seemed that the closest match would be the original driveshaft and the driveshaft that fit the trans, I had no idea at the time. So today I decided to cut apart both driveshafts and see what it would take to get something working. The pilots for both driveshafts are the same, or at least so close that it was a snug fit to slide the new yoke, into the old driveshaft. :happy: The other great surprise is that without cutting the driveshaft shorter, it was the right length, though it could be about 10 to 15mm longer without issue. I do have about 60mm of yoke engagement as it is, which is over half of the overall length of the yoke.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8686&d=1426955912

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8687&d=1426955912

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8688&d=1426955912

After this, some magic happened...

When I turned the crank with a rachet, the rear wheels turned as well.

This was the part that I thought was going to cause a long delay on getting the car mobile again, but it turned out to be easier than I thought.

While I had the trans out, I also made some additional room for the VSS, by slicing the mount brace and then hammering the plate to move into the brace, and then finally welding up the slice.

Fitted the starter. It seems that I didn't measure quite right for the starter position when I was making the adapter plate, but I did plan ahead and left enough material that I could open up the area under the starter if need be, and it was. I also made the clutch cover plate, that will be installed between the oil pan and the adapter plate, much like the OEM would have, and also my "clutch inspection hole" cover. This is actually a hole on the side of the trans that would be where the Nissan starter bolted to in the 300ZX TT, but is a great way to look at the throw out bearing and clutch.

I'm a tad worried that I may not have enough movement of the clutch fork to disengage the clutch. I have about 14mm of movement of the throw out bearing in total, after the throw out bearing comes in contact with the fingers of the pressure plate. If I need to, I can get a 300ZX throw out bearing and use the longer throw out bearing collar from my car to gain an additional 5mm. This would place the bearing just about against the fingers of the pressure plate at rest. I'll try it how it is first.

A shot of how it sat at this point in the story:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8689&d=1426955912

[Six_Shooter]

It was exhausting

I have the exhaust finished, it's a 3 piece exhaust now, where as the previous exhaust was one piece. I had to do it this way to make servicing components on the car easier. It snakes through areas pretty nicely, and will get the job done. I was hoping that I would have been able to make the exhaust two piece. Basically addiing a new downpipe into the old system, but this proved to be more complicated than it was worth and would require taking apart other parts of the car to get the down pipe in and out, which I do not like. When I build cars, I try very hard to make them easy to service, even for the less common/less frequently serviced items, because, why not? It will make my life easier in the long run, and it's usually no harder to make a vehicle this way than it is to just keep stacking parts on top of parts.

Started at the downpipe flange. Plasma cutters and flap discs are wonderful things
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8690&d=1426956380

This is where I got to when I discovered that I couldn't put the one flange where I wanted, the downpipe just wasn't go to be able to be installed with it this length. I really liked how it fit though.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8691&d=1426956380

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8692&d=1426956380

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8693&d=1426956380

Tacked together from one end to the other, next up, weld it solid...
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8694&d=1426956380

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8695&d=1426956380

[Six_Shooter]

Time to take charge and cool it

I started on the intercooler piping at this point. I wanted to change how the IC piping was routed through the rad support while I was at it. You see there are 4 holes in the rad support, well, there are more, but one is filled with the rad, and the others are just simple wire pass throughs or bolt holes. lol Anyway. There are two holes about mid way up on the rad support that are about 2 5/8" or so, and fit 2.5" tubing just nicely, but are not ideal to get piping through, due to the inner wheel well being very close to them, but not impossible. I had some intake piping through these holes originally, back before I put the IC in (I just had a tube there taking it's place). Anyway, once I actually made my IC, due to where the tubes were, it was easier to just remove the vent boots from the upper holes and use those holes. They are larger and just easier to use. Many people that install turbos in these cars use the upper holes. These holes as originally fitted are for some vents that allow fresh air into the cabin, and they DO make a difference, so I really wanted to change the holes used for the IC piping.
A couple years ago, I basically rebuilt a friend's 240Z for him and went through some considerable effort to use the lower smaller holes to pass his IC piping through, though we used 2.25" tubing on his car, so it made it easier. The IC he had, also allowed me to have some distance to curve the tubing just right, even though I did have to pie cut the bends to make them tight enough to fit exactly how I wanted them. It was worth the effort, it looks clean, planned out and not hacked looking. So I really wanted to get this going in my car as well. The difference, I'm using a very different style IC, his was a crossflow design, with the inlet and outlet both at the same height near the top of the IC, mine is a vertical flow design, with one inlet at the top and one at the bottom. In the end this design worked out very well for me, as I will show in pictures. He was using 2.25" tubing, I'm using 2.5" tubing, his tubing was stainless steel, and mine is aluminum, his was much easier to weld...

Anyway, back to the point...

I started that night trying to get something that would work to get the tubing through the lower holes. I was working towards keeping the IC on an angle and then pie cut some tubing for one of the tubes, and really did not like how it was turning out. I was also planning on welding tubes to the IC, that passed through the rad support in those holes, and had one side tacked together that did this, or would have once I tacked it to the IC itself. Since I really didn't like how it was turning out that night, I went home.

first attempt at getting the IC tubing through the lower holes in the rad support:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8696&d=1426957187

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8697&d=1426957187

New mount tab, to use an existing front facia/grill support:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8698&d=1426957187

Adding some more before test fit:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8700&d=1426957187


One more time

So the next night I decided to tackle the IC piping and was determined to not leave until I had something that was at least tacked together and would work. I succeeded. All tacked together, still needed to be welded. I ended up with somewhat of a hybrid of what I was thinking of previously. I ended up welding elbows onto the IC, that are pointed at angles, that once some IC piping is passed through the rad support will allow me to use a short coupler on each end. Right now I am down to only 4 couplers in the entire system. One at the turbo compressor, one at the TB and one at each end of the IC. It took some real effort to get this to work, but I like the end result, and once the vent boots go back it it will look even better.

Looks like a good spot:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8701&d=1426957187

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8702&d=1426957187

I decided to add the BOV directly to the IC tank. I did this on my friend's car, and liked it. I also think it keeps the IC tubing looking cleaner overall.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8703&d=1426957187

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8704&d=1426957187

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8699&d=1426957187

All painted up:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8705&d=1426957187

Mitsubishi Eclipse BOV installed:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8706&d=1426957206

[Six_Shooter]

All's well that oils well

I also started on the oil drain back. With the turbo mounted so far forward, and all of the tubes and pipes that are pretty much in the way, the -10 AN that I used previously was not going to work well. It would have worked, but there would have been a chance that the drain would not have been on a downward slope all the way to the pan. So I've come up with a plan to use some tube, and a drain flange that was original to the turbo, but will take some modification, and some additional tubing. I'm shooting to make it one piece all the way to the elbow into the oil pan, and use just a short piece of rubber hose to connect it.

Getting all lubed up... and down

Well, The oil drain back from the turbo took a bit to decide on just exactly how I wanted to do it. I've ran -10 braided hose on my last couple of turbo installs and while it worked it can get expensive and the piece I was using was getting old starting to seep a bit of oil. I hate leaks, and so I eventually decided on a solid tube to a rubber hose coupler at the oil pan. But then I had to decide just what route I was going to take, after some trial fitting, I came up with this:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8707&d=1426958049

It snakes in past the Y-pipe and then on a downward slope to the fitting I have at the oil pan.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8708&d=1426958049

Springing into action

I knew the weak point on the LX9 valve train was the stock springs, and truth be known, I believe it's been this way for a long time. I used stock valve springs on my Franken60 that used small port 3100 heads, and believe they were a major part of the limiting top end on that engine. I didn't want to take any chances this time and want to rev it to about 6500 RPM or so. I installed a set of Crane Cams valve springs.

Comparison shot:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8709&d=1426958049

I used a handy tool that an engine builder friend of mine had (I also bought the springs from him). I was able to remove the stock springs without adding an extension handle, not so with the new aftermarket springs.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8710&d=1426958049

No Heat For You!

At one point, while I was under the car, I looked at the block heater and really didn't like that it was still there. I mean I needed something there to keep coolant in the engine, but I will never use the block heater, then it hit me, vehicles that don't spend their lives in Canada (or Northern States) probably don't have block heaters fitted to them, so there should be a plug option. Off to the dealer I go, and sure enough after some searching we find it. Has to come from the states, which wasn't surprising. I think I found the same plug at Car Quest the other day, though, which would have likely been cheaper.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8711&d=1426958049

Clutching At A Solution

So with the new trans there were some clutch things to sort out, one being that while the original clutch slave could be used, it has to move to a new position relative to the car. It's mounted lower on the bellhousing requiring a different flex line or some other solution. I came up with my own solution:

I decided to make a short extension piece, and a new bracket to anchor the flex line:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8712&d=1426958070

[34blazer]

Looks great Six

[RobertISaar]

this thread makes me realize how much my fab skills need polishing.....

[Six_Shooter]

Looks great Six

Thanks.


this thread makes me realize how much my fab skills need polishing.....

I'll take that as a compliment. To be honest though, I feel the same way when I look other some other people's builds.

There are some things that I did less polished in this engine swap than I wanted to because I was trying to get it done in about 13 days. It took me 14 to swap from the Turbo L28 to the turbo LX9. I was trying to get it done for the annual Zfest that happened on August 14th last year, but I didn't get it done until late in the day of the 14th at which point ZFest was long over. :(

[JeepsAndGuns]

Seeing threads like these remind me what I am fixing to look forward to when I start my builds. I have two jeeps I am trying to build. I am so close to having everything for both, but still have so many more parts I still need to get before I can start. I kinda feel overwhelmed sometimes.

[rsicard]

Thanks.



I'll take that as a compliment. To be honest though, I feel the same way when I look other some other people's builds.

There are some things that I did less polished in this engine swap than I wanted to because I was trying to get it done in about 13 days. It took me 14 to swap from the Turbo L28 to the turbo LX9. I was trying to get it done for the annual Zfest that happened on August 14th last year, but I didn't get it done until late in the day of the 14th at which point ZFest was long over. :(

Am also an owner of a 240Z. Right now it is fairly bare. Fabbed part of a Roll Cage for it. Right now, trying to get a 16197427 PCM tuned for a 350 Vortec SBC with TunerPro to replace the oil burner in my pickup. This is getting to be a painful process of getting scraps thrown out as to tuning with TunerPro RT. It is like taking baby steps and summer coming soon in Arizona is VERY HOT! Would like to get this SOB tuned fairly soon so the engine swap can take place before it gets too DAMN HOT.

How does one go about accelerating the learning curve for tuning the 350 Vortec with TunerPro? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Six_Shooter]

Going about it

Well, in looking at the cooling system and specifically the bypass that the gen1 used and the gen3 used and how very different they are, I started to formulate a plan to get something better then relying on the heater core as the bypass.

I had to go with my alternate routing because I couldn't find a fitting that I liked to do it my preferred method.

I started by welding up the hole in the back of the front cover that is present on the gen1 front covers. I then added a plate that I drilled and tapped for 3/8" NPT to the top side, where it will be accessible when the front cover is installed.

I followed the idea of the gen1 path for the coolant bypass.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8725&d=1427037973

90* fitting with a 3/8" NPT to 3/8" tube adapter.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8726&d=1427037973

I then pulled a plug in the block and put a 1/4" to 3/8" tube adapter in that hole.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8727&d=1427037973

I then formed a tube with proper tube nuts to connect the two.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8728&d=1427037973

Bypass installed
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8729&d=1427037973

In the intake, where I really would have preferred to run the bypass to, I simply threaded the hole where the tube was for 3/8" NPT and plugged it.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8730&d=1427037973

[Six_Shooter]

Gimme Fuel, Gimme... Well... fuel...

Engines require three things, fuel air and spark, here, I get fuel to the engine.

In the past on my 660s I've used a stock fuel rail and regulator, well, I had tried an MSD regulator that I was not impressed with and replaced pretty quickly with a stock regulator that I modified to be adjustable. This time I have plans of really increasing available flow through the fuel system, so this is what I shall call "the get it running set-up".

On the previous engine I had a custom fuel rail made, since the stock fuel rail was fugly and wouldn't flow as well as I needed it to, and also limited me to barb style injectors. In that system I had an Aeromotove FPR, that worked well, so I wanted to retain that with the 660. To do this easily required some -6 AN fittings at the fuel rail. Now I know there are expensive adapters available to do this, but I am cheap, and I plan to modify the fuel rails even more in the future, so it made the most sense to weld on some AN fittings to the stock rail. I used a couple 3/8" NPT to -6 AN fittings, instead of the "weld on" type since these were cheaper, if I had to buy them, but I also had a pair of these already, so it made it easy, and cheaper for me.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8731&d=1427038362

Installed in the car. I attached the FPR to the strut tower, because I wasn't happy with anything I came up with for mounting it on the engine itself.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8732&d=1427038362

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8733&d=1427038362

I've Got The Power

Next up was wiring. I retained the ECM and harness I was using on the previous engine, which is a 1227749, with a modified harness from a 1988 Cavalier. This is actually the third 660 this harness has been attached to, and third vehicle, if you include the donor car and engine. I used this same harness in my Jimmy years ago. This set-up has been running the L28 for the last 6 years, so all I had to do was modify for the LX9.

Funny enough I didn't have to modify each injector length, since they kinda fell into place, I just had to shorten some wires, and extend only the O2 sensor wires to get everything to fit how I wanted. I aldo had to add some wiring for the alternator, since I am using a Toyota alternator, instead of the GM alternator I was using on the L28.

In these pictures is where I pulled a couple wires out of the vehicle harness to be connected differently, or at different points then where they were originally.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8734&d=1427038405

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8735&d=1427038405

I had intended on using an old hot rodder trick for the starter, where a Ford starter solenoid is used to give power to the starter, on both the heavy feed and the small signal wire. I have done this in the past without issue, but this time it held the starter on for a couple extra seconds, so I ended up changing to using the Ford starter solenoid as only feeding the higher current supply and triggering the starter more conventionally otherwise.

Here I have the loop that is now removed:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8736&d=1427038405

Ford starter solenoid, I may remove this and wire it a little differently now, because of how I actually have this connected, but it's working well as it is.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8737&d=1427038405

[Six_Shooter]

Getting To The Nitty Gritty

At about this point it's getting into the small details that just take time, like vacuum lines, plug wires, etc, etc. Not a lot of pictures of this stage, because, well, it's difficult to show these details in pictures. But I'll show what I do have.

For the PCV I kept the PCV that I used on the turbo L28, which is a Mitsubishi PCV IIRC, I've had it for 6 years, so I don't recall the actual application.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8738&d=1427038940

After finishing off the vacuum lines, and wiring, I was able to perform some testing, like the fuel system pressurization, in which I found 2 leaks. One was an O-ring that got pinched upon install, the other was much harder to locate. It turns out that one of the welds was either a bit porous, or not completely welded. After running the fuel pump for a few minutes that end of the rail and injector #1 would get wet with fuel. After a while I decided to just go ahead and touch up the weld on that fitting and see if that would do it. Well, it did.

Time For The Big Pay Off

It was almost 8 PM on Sunday, Zfest, an annual event held by the local Z car club was long over, which sucks, it was the first one I missed since I got my car, and the first one that the car was not running for. The first year I had my car I got it running on the fuel injection the day before the event, though I did start that project months before the event, but I digress.

Going through the check list, fluids (except coolant), wiring, mechanicals, yep, all there and in the right places.

I thought to myself "should I connect the laptop and make some changes or just see how it runs on the bin for the L28?"

I decided to just go for it and try to start it, it could only be better than starting from a "starter bin".

Turn the key on, the fuel pump primes, recheck for leaks, none, and hit the key...

"Vroom" is what I heard, and it was a glorious sound. The birth of a turbo LX9 powered 1973 Datsun 240Z. This made all the work worth it.

It sounded different than the old engine, as I would expect, but I wasn't sure if I liked or disliked the sound, I was undecided, but liked it just the same, because it meant the car was now running and that much closer to driveable. The engine ran for a few more seconds when I decided that I should shut it off, due to no coolant.

So at this point I haven't found a rad that I like, that has the inlets and outlets on the correct sides for the LX9, and has the right fit. So I use the old rad, and make some embarrassing rad hoses, just to get the car going. I will find or make a rad that is the way I want. I will likely need to make a rad. :/

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8739&d=1427038940

Shift Me, Shift Me, Baby...

I also needed to finish off the shifter. I had built the base mechanism a long time ago, but not the actual shifter handle itself, since I wasn't sure exactly where the shifter mechanism would sit in the shifter opening. Now that it was the last detail it was time to get something that I can at least use for now.

I started with a stock 5-speed shifter which has a unique shape, this shape worked for me, when it came to cutting it apart and making a handle that would place the shifter where it needs to be. It worked out that the shifter came up through the stock trans tunnel, shifter boot, which was a bonus.

It actually works better than expected. I am still going to look into a different shifter, at this point I am going to look at finding a 2WD Pathfinder, or late '80's 300ZX that supposedly used the same trans, but had the shifter in a different location, which might work better in the end.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8740&d=1427038940

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8741&d=1427038940

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8742&d=1427038940

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8743&d=1427038940

I did some drivetrain testing on the hoist. Checked that the clutch worked as it should, checked that the rear wheels would actually turn, etc. Did a little bit of AE tuning on the hoist.

While doing this I saw that the coolant temp was being reported as 60*, which was odd, it should have been much warmer than that. Unplugged the coolant sensor, same thing. I thought to myself that it could be a wiring issue, but didn't feel like pulling the upper intake manifold to check at the time, so I left it for the time being.

I was doing something else, near the throttle body, when I noticed that the TPS connector was disconnected, due to the blue wire, then looked at the TPS and realized that I had swapped the CTS and TPS connectors. *facepalm* connected them properly and now everything reads as it should.

It was too late to drive the car home, I didn't want to wake my boss (he lives in the house in front of the shop currently), and I wasn't sure how much tuning it would actually need to be driveable, so I left it on the hoist and drove home in my Yukon. :/

Just Like The First Time

Well, the next morning I go into work and put the car on the ground, and drove it out of the shop for the first time. It was great, the clutch engaged just as it should, no weird noises, no clunks, no bangs.

So I let it sit outside and get up to temp before taking it for a tune drive.

[Six_Shooter]

Failure is always an option

I have had this failure that had stopped the car from being driven so far, well, driven very far anyway, shortly after getting the swap together. It would still run and move fine, but the coolant wasn't being circulated, nor was it charging. At first it seemed like it just spit the belt, which is one thing I was kinda expecting, because the idler pulley wasn't perfectly straight.

The failure? The alternator bracket broke. It seems there was just too much leverage on the bracket and it pulled the welds right out of the base plate. Which was another failure point I kinda expected, but expected it before getting the engine running.

Anyway, "carnage" pictures:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8920&d=1430111229

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8921&d=1430111229

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8922&d=1430111229

The repair...

I reinforced the alternator bracket with an internal support:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8923&d=1430111229

I then added a couple gussets:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8924&d=1430111229

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8925&d=1430111229

Back up and running:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8926&d=1430111229

[Six_Shooter]

More Failure is still an option

The repaired alternator bracket also failed.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8927&d=1430111655

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8928&d=1430111655

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8929&d=1430111655

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8930&d=1430111655

The New Mount

I started with a piece of 3/16" plate and made every part from it. I had to stack some pieces together to get the thickness I needed in certain areas.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8931&d=1430111655

Plug welded the main pieces together, along with edge welding
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8932&d=1430111655

Test fitting in the car. I found that I had to add the extra portion on top like the old mount, so that the idler pulley would clear the water pump pulley with enough space that I was comfortable with.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8933&d=1430111655

Painted:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8934&d=1430111655

Installed:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8935&d=1430111655

And the brace I added. The bracket that I was using previously is still attached to the back of the alternator and the block, this one is just added to the front side, to take some of the leverage off the other mounts.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8936&d=1430111655

[Six_Shooter]

This is a video I took while I was shoveling the driveway back in January:


https://vimeo.com/122288354

[Six_Shooter]

Looks like a head gasket replacement is in order:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8964&d=1430637356

It was pulling like a monster too when it happened. lol

[Six_Shooter]

CARNAGE!!!

So I pulled the head off today, and found this:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8974&d=1430716113

A little closer:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8975&d=1430716113

I should have seen this before I pulled the head... LMAO!!
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=8976&d=1430716113

This explains why I was smelling burning oil. Not sure why I was smelling coolant though. There does look to be some VERY small paths for coolant between the nearest steam holes and the break, that maybe allowed some coolant to get into the cylinder.

I have decided to put my other short block together, just so that I can open up the ring gaps a little and not have to worry about that.

I think I might frame this gasket. :rockon:

[JeepsAndGuns]

I see blown head gaskets all the time working in the field of small engines. That one is a nice one! Any idea on the cause yet?

[brian617]

Looks like extreme heat and pressure to me. :rockon: Enjoying this thread.

[Six_Shooter]

I see blown head gaskets all the time working in the field of small engines. That one is a nice one! Any idea on the cause yet?

A few things..

I was trying to things to see how far I could go, one of those things was low octane fuel, because I've had good success with low octane in the past on similar set-ups.

The ECM dropped into LHM briefly under full jam, and rattled the engine pretty badly.

I've had intermittent issues with detonation that seemed random, and couldn't pin point what was causing it, but I think I've narrowed that down to the ECM itself now. Just before this happened I started the car at a local coffee shop and while warming up it was dropping into and out of LHM sitting still. I started driving though and it went away, until I was under full power... :/

So, along with the engine refresh, I'm going to replace the ECM.


Looks like extreme heat and pressure to me. :rockon: Enjoying this thread.

Yep, 10 PSIG boost, and probably close to 6000 RPM at the time. :D

[Six_Shooter]

So begins another chapter:

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=9002&d=1431153033

[Six_Shooter]

Well, I decided to bite the bullet and order up some ARP fasteners, at this stage. I know I'm gonna be BEATING on this engine pretty hard, and want to push it as far as I can. The ARP fasteners will just be good insurance to make sure it's not a fastener's limits I find. ;)

Main and head studs (head studs are used, but will still be good), and rod bolts.

The sad part is the price of the fasteners is more than the engine can be replaced for. lol

[1project2many]

ARP is the way to go. I bought ARP for the Toyota engine. I had some time so I spent over a year watching for deals. I bought the fasteners at near cost and they still cost as much as the dump bed on the back!

[Six_Shooter]

I haven't undated this thread in a while.

I did get the car back together, even took it to the track.

Best run was a 12.71 @115 MPH, running out of gear at about 1200' and needing to shift to 5th or just coast, since the engine stopped making power about 5600 RPM, and the shift point was about 5800... Still, I was pretty happy with that. :D

Then just over a week and a half ago I was rolling to a stop, engine braking and when I pushed the clutch in, all hell broke loose.

The boost gauge showed over 300 PSIG, keep in mind that the throttle was closed, the AFR gauge showed 99.99 AFR (Basically pure air), sounded like a diesel, and I THINK showed no oil pressure on the gauge. I quickly turned off the ignition at which point it wouldn't re-fire. There was also a new knock or thud sound while cranking. On one cranking attempt I saw flames under the upper intake, which I believe formed around the #2 injector!

I first thought it was the cam pin had snapped, whihc is not unheard of on the gen3 660, when that checked out fine, I then thought broken cam, but that checked out fine as well.

So I think it's narrowed down to the ignition module taking a dump and either firing the wrong cylinders or all of the cylinders at the same time. I think this caused the engine to start running backwards when I pushed the clutch in, which would explain the gauge readings.

I have not found anything wrong with the engine to cause the sound that was heard while cranking. Bearings look great, nothing loose, etc.

I still have my other block I'm going to put together and put back in the car, with new crank and rod bearings.

Anyway, I decided to take a time lapse video of pulling what remained in the car after the initial exploratory into it.


https://vimeo.com/134171907

[Xnke]

Sounds a lot like a leaking fuel injector to me. I had exactly the same experiance happen with the L28+M90, blew up the sheetmetal plenum like a balloon. Combination of enough fuel in the intake plus slightly too advanced timing/valve not sealed/some source of ignition in the intake. I spent two months hunting down that problem, the injector didn't leak while sitting still, only when the car had been running and was hot-once cooled off, the drip stopped.