4L60E is out and 4L80E about to go in.

[Fast355]

The Express lost its 4L60E this morning and the resealed 4L80E is about to find its way in.

[34blazer]

Cool. Pics?

[1project2many]

80E's live to 300k in our fleet. 60Es are no longer allowed to try. ;)

[RobertISaar]

WIN

does your current PCM/TCM support a 4L80E(specifically that the 60 didn't have an input shaft speed sensor and the 80 does)?

i still don't know how GM did reliable adapt functions without it.

[Fast355]

I have pics, but none loaded on the net yet. I'll try to load them tomorrow. I have the transmission bolted to the engine, but am needing more parts. Need a 2500 or moded crossmember, I thought my stock one was going to work but it didn't work out. I plan to pickup a 2500 driveshaft too, my stock one was too long. After flushing my cooler I was able to tweak one cooler line and it snapped right into place, the other is needing serious modification and I am tempted to add the oem auxiliary on the driverside to keep the 4.3 stalled 80e cool. I swapped the flexplate for a new napa one for a 4L80E and bolted all six converter bolts up. I am also going to pickup an engine oil cooler adapter and bracketry. I installed a 1-ton radiator with the oil cooler in the driverside tank. I am going to have to install a 4L80E specific shift cable as the stock one is about 2" too short. The transmission was a real battle to remove and install laying on my back in the driveway but its bolted in. My 350 block and 4L80E bellhousing was tapped for the 7th bellhousing bolt so I installed it too. I had a whole 98 C2500 pickup harness I got with an L31 I bought years ago and robbed the whole ISS twisted pair and connector complete with pcm pins and the 11-pin trans connecter pigtail. I am in the process of modifying the harness. The PCM is an 0411 and they came factory in a 2001-2002 Express with the L31 and 4L80E. Thinking of emailing HP Tuners for a segment swap if I can find a 2002 L31 4L80E HP Tuners file to rob the trans segment from.

I hope my 4L60E hate humor is acceptable here. 4L80e appears to be in great shape internally and very clean.

[EagleMark]

Won't HPTuner open a .bin? Here it is just in case.

[1project2many]

I am tempted to add the oem auxiliary on the driverside to keep the 4.3 stalled 80e cool.
The OEM cooler is spendy and only connects to those "almost" fuel line quick connects that GM likes for transmissions. Around here the trans lines rust away and the cooler ends up as junk anyway. So we grab one from Advance and rivet it to the OEM brackets and run corrosion-proof rubber hose under the radiator to the aux cooler. Part no 243012.

Dorman sells replacement cooler lines that fit a vehicle with 80E and aux cooler for less than GM. I can get part nos if interested. We've switched many of our vehicles to inverted flare fittings and of course, the hose out in front. We make the lines from scratch. This is because the supply of lines from OE and aftermarket has been inconsistent over the years. I can dig out part nos for the trans fittings we use if desired.

4L60E hate humor? I've been working on that trans since the first days when they'd puke front seals and burn up pumps as you tried to drive it out of the shop. No matter how good they get now, they're always going to be junk to me.

Some van shift cables are two parts, upper and lower. Upper may be same for both trannies. I believe that started in '03 for the one tons but maybe the smaller vans started earlier.

I have multiple 80E van cals including 2002 Cali and Federal versions. I'll try to upload the '02 versions today. I believe TC does segment swaps although I wouldn't guarantee it.

[Fast355]

The OEM cooler is spendy and only connects to those "almost" fuel line quick connects that GM likes for transmissions. Around here the trans lines rust away and the cooler ends up as junk anyway. So we grab one from Advance and rivet it to the OEM brackets and run corrosion-proof rubber hose under the radiator to the aux cooler. Part no 243012.

Dorman sells replacement cooler lines that fit a vehicle with 80E and aux cooler for less than GM. I can get part nos if interested. We've switched many of our vehicles to inverted flare fittings and of course, the hose out in front. We make the lines from scratch. This is because the supply of lines from OE and aftermarket has been inconsistent over the years. I can dig out part nos for the trans fittings we use if desired.

4L60E hate humor? I've been working on that trans since the first days when they'd puke front seals and burn up pumps as you tried to drive it out of the shop. No matter how good they get now, they're always going to be junk to me.

Some van shift cables are two parts, upper and lower. Upper may be same for both trannies. I believe that started in '03 for the one tons but maybe the smaller vans started earlier.

I have multiple 80E van cals including 2002 Cali and Federal versions. I'll try to upload the '02 versions today. I believe TC does segment swaps although I wouldn't guarantee it.

Thanks for the heads up on the cooler.

The 97 appears to have 2 shift cable part numbers for a 350. One for a 60e and the other for an 80e.

With the absence of winter salt our rubber hoses break down in the extreme heat and fail long before the metal lines corrode.

The dormain lines are the ones I was going to use and I was going to find a used oem cooler and flush it out real well.

I have tried to open a .bin with HP Tuners and it is not a valid file type. I definately don't want to start with the california junk, but would appreciate a 2002 Federal 5.7/4L80E calibration read.

Funny thing the transmission dipstick tube was how you mentioned, two pieces with the lower half being different. I need to research the part number on the actual dipstick.

Yea I never have understood why GM chose to strangle their 5.7 with tuning trying to keep that POS 4L60E alive rather than just upgrading their trucks to a 4L80e.

[1project2many]

Part no for lower tube is 15004204. We keep a couple in stock because they get rusty.

My files are Tunercat .cal files. Can probably convert to .bin but not to .hpt.

Old work laptop not logging onto network. IT probably made changes since last used. If no copies of cals on laptop at home I'll post tomorrow.

[Fast355]

Part no for lower tube is 15004204. We keep a couple in stock because they get rusty.

My files are Tunercat .cal files. Can probably convert to .bin but not to .hpt.

Old work laptop not logging onto network. IT probably made changes since last used. If no copies of cals on laptop at home I'll post tomorrow.

Thanks for the part number. Luckily my 4L80E came with one included.

[gregs78cam]

The transmission was a real battle to remove and install laying on my back in the driveway but its bolted in. At 265lbs (4L80e) I bet it was. I used a 2x12 run from one side to the other and just lifted each side and put blocks under it until it was in place. Best way I could figure to do it in gravel.

[1project2many]

Part no for dipstick is 15020600. GM Speak calls it an "INDICATOR,TRANS FLUID LVL." which has been tough for the parts guys to find in the past.
http://www.tonkinonlineparts.com/p/__/INDICATOR-Transmission-Oil-Filler/6001039/15020600.html

No cals at home. I believe IT comes in around 8-ish.

[Fast355]

At 265lbs (4L80e) I bet it was. I used a 2x12 run from one side to the other and just lifted each side and put blocks under it until it was in place. Best way I could figure to do it in gravel.

I have a concrete driveway and a trans jack, but the trans on the jack wouldnt clear the crossmember. So I had to use 2x4 as skids and levers to get it up on the jack. Had my little brother give me a hand.

Having the driveshaft shortened 1.5" today and rebalanced. I had to buy an expensive slip yoke specific to a bolt on yoke style 4L80E. Will have to use a conversion u-joint as well and plan to get solid USA made spicer joints on each end.. Picked up a pair of 4" x 1/4" x 12" pieces of flat stock to modify my crossmember.

Almost done with the harness modificatioms as well but ran out of time.

4L80E shift cable should be here today and that only leaves the rear cooler line and pcm tune.

[Fast355]

Its back! Cut down to 70.5", new custom yoke, Spicer solid U-joints and a balance. Ready to go in tonight.

Shift cable came in too.

Might work on the wiring tonight too just depends on how much of a pain the shift cable becomes.

[Fast355]

Its back! Cut down to 70.5", new custom yoke, Spicer solid U-joints and a balance. Ready to go in tonight.

Shift cable came in too.

Might work on the wiring tonight too just depends on how much of a pain the shift cable becomes.

Driveshaft ended up being the wrong length..

But the shift cable is installed and working on the wiring. Only getting an hour or so a night in on it. Got the park/neutral switch connected with help of a heat gun and adjusted and it cranks over.

In the process of adding the iss and 4l80e pigtail I have from a 98 C2500

[Playtoy_18]

Where are you located fast?
I have a spare 0411 laying around,I can flash it and send it your way.
Just pull the file with HPT and send it back my way.

[Fast355]

Where are you located fast?
I have a spare 0411 laying around,I can flash it and send it your way.
Just pull the file with HPT and send it back my way.

I am in the Fort Worth area.

I had HP Tuners perform a segment swap for me. PCM should be taken care of, but I appreciate the generous offer of assistance. If it doesn't work out I might still take you up on that offer in the near future.

Managed to get the crossmember hacked up and modified to my liking and plan to work on it some more tonight. I will trim down some of the extra material with my cut-off wheel, smooth it, degrease it and paint it with some self-priming flat black paint to keep it from rusting at the welds.

[EagleMark]

Where are you located fast?
I have a spare 0411 laying around,I can flash it and send it your way.
Just pull the file with HPT and send it back my way.I didn't think he would need that much help. I would have done the same for him.

Don't ever let that hold you back Fast! :happy:

[Fast355]

I didn't think he would need that much help. I would have done the same for him.

Don't ever let that hold you back Fast! :happy:

It has been a battle, the whole way through, but I know the end result will be worth the fight. I was unable to find anybody that had swapped a 4L80E into an Express chassis of any year. Now that I know what has to be done, I could do it again with my eyes closed.

I am actually considering dropping some Edelbrock ETec 200 heads on the engine and making some more HP out of it. I would go with the smaller 170s, but they are really not much of an improvement over the factory iron heads.

I have been searching high and low for a pair of used ASM oversized long tube runners that flow 260 cfm, right where the ETec's flow in the .550" lift range I am running. Hoping to match the whole combination up to make ~425 HP and 500 ft/lbs from the 5.7. If I ever get around to doing this, I plan to send the whole thing to Llyod Elliot as he is highly experienced in porting LT1 heads and the ETec heads are practically copies of the LT4 heads. The Vortec TPI base only flows in the high 220 range, but I have a feeling that can be fixed.

The resident Grand National and Supra experts at work are pushing me to slap a mid-mount T76 on it, a front mounted intercooler and put about 10 psi to it on E85.

[Fast355]

A little more grinding, a thorough cleaning and some flat black rustoleum. Almost looks like it could have came that way.

[Fast355]

And I broke my double flare tool...But the transmission is in and the cooler lines are halfway finished. New tune is loaded to the PCM and I only have to pickup some new loom for the harness to finish it. Its been a little bit of a chore but IMO worth it for peace of mind.

[EagleMark]

I don't think you had a choice with your quest for HP! :rockon:

[Fast355]

I don't think you had a choice with your quest for HP! :rockon:

No I didn't. In my quest for more power I scooped up a massive 6.5L diesel express airbox that has a much larger opening, scoop and huge increase in filter surface area. .

[Fast355]

Only have wiring to finish in the morning.

Replaced the 4" yoke with a 6" yoke and the driveshaft fits great. I had a misunderstanding with the driveshaft guy and he did not realize I had a booted seal and he had told me to pull the yoke out 1" from fully inserted. Which I misunderstood as being to the boot. The longer yoke fixed up the slack on the transmission end.

I found some slick transmission fittings that go straight from the trans case to -6AN and another set that go from 1/4 npt to -6AN. So I am ordering parts to fully replace my temporary lines with -6AN braided stainless teflon lined hoses and adding a Derale external cooler with thermostatically controlled pusher fan after the in-radiator cooler.

[EagleMark]

Those coolers with fan are sweet.

If your doing the JY, on late 90s dodge cummins diesel trucks they had a trans cooler with fan mounted under the bed. Nice unit but hard to find that kind of rig for parts.

[Fast355]

Wiring is done!

[Fast355]

Test drove it today, must say I really like the way it drives, even on the stock shift points and TCC settings. The converter clutch is a bit weird in the way the stock tables control it, but it operates fairly smoothly, save for the firm upshifts and downshifts.

I was going to play with the shift points and TCC some, but as I ventured a little further from home, I saw a massive smoke screen form behind me, got pulled over and found that the front pump seal had failed/pushed out, not sure yet. Not sure what caused that because it was a new Felpro seal that I seated the same way I have seated every other seal. I had to call out a wrecker to pick it up. I am done at this point, I sent it to a local shop I deal with to R&R the trans and replace the seal. Its all swapped over now and I am tired of laying on the concrete on my back. This swap has fought me the entire way. They will start on it Tuesday morning.

With the B82 converter it is suprisingly torquey from a stop, but as soon as it starts to couple well in the 2,500 rpm range, you get that 1-ton Van feel. Kick it too the floor and it will wind up to about 45 mph in 1st, go into 2nd and keep right on pulling up to about 85 mph in 2nd.

[Fast355]

I became bored today and cleaned up my $8.00 oil cooler adapter and brackets I scored from a light duty 3/4 ton van with a Vorte 305. Then I hooked my new Dorman oil cooler lines to the adapter after changing the O-rings in the fittings. They come right out with a pick and Ace Hardware carries the exact replacement. Beats $10 a quick connect. When I get it back this week I will install the cooler and lines as well as change the oil and filter.

I am thinking of going back to the wrecking yard next weekend and scooping up the upper and lower control arms, spindles, front caliper brackets and calipers from the van. It is a light duty 2500 with larger front rotors, larger caliper pistons, larger wheel bearings and 6 lug rotors. I will rebuild them all with polyurethane bushings, new balljoints, reseal the calipers and mount them on with new shocks and 3/4 ton front springs. Followed by a 6 lug, 4.10 geared disc brake rear-end from an 03+.

I can hardly wait to get it back and finish the project by tuning the shift points, removing some tq management and eliminating wot tcc lockup.

[Fast355]

So I got it back this afternoon and had a chance to datalog a little with HP Tuners. For being a stock transmission tune with the stock spark maps and stock torque management in place its actually running well for the summer heat. Even at 10:00 P.M it was more than 90°F and 3,000 ft density altitude. I plan to get it dialed in as nicely as my old 60e setup soon. Only wish I had gone with 4.30 or 4.56 gears now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CqkRkABKk4

[Fast355]

I messed with the tune and have it now driving much better than the horrible, near undriveable stock tune. All the WOT torque converter lockup settings are gone and it has a very progressive shift speed and lockup table that makes it shift and behave much more 4L60E like. Brought back in some timing and only left 15% torque reduction at WOT rather than the 25-30% stock. Knocked nearly 4 seconds off the 0-80!!!! Glad I found my power again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXTXqMCkF34

[Fast355]

My a/c manifold hose developed a leak at the rear of the block where the aluminum tubing actually started tearing way from the manifold assembly. Got that replaced. Installed my oil cooler adapter and lines. Cleaned up my 0411 swap wiring. Played with the calibration a fair amount as well. Also got a line on a L31 Marine intake and dug out my set of now discountinued Doug Thorley Express van headers. I should be up around 425-450 ft/lbs of torque and 375 HP when I am done. I also brake stall tested the B82 converter behind my lightly cammed L31 5.7 and found it stalled just under 2,150 rpm with the drivetrain fully heat soaked and it was difficult to keep the right rear tire from spinning. With cooler IATs it flash stalls 2,300-2,400 rpm. I have a GM 9.5" ring gear corporate 14 bolt to fix the one wheel peel. As it is its not running too badly, runs 0-60 in 8 seconds, about 1 second slower than a 2000 C1500 4.8/4L60E/3.42 geared RCSB truck with a CAI, Headers, and Catless exhaust that I tuned the other day. When the weather cools off and the other parts find their way on, it should run well into the 7s 0-60 range, maybe even touch a high 6 second 0-60.

[Fast355]

Unwrapped my Doug Thorleys and scrutinized every inch for flaws or defects and pictures do not give thes headers justice. They are quite simply works of art.

[Hog]

They are beautiful headers, and work well, I just wish there was a bit more collector, but there isnt room. Isnt this the 2nd set of Thorleys?
What diameter are the headpipes on those?

Nice buy.

peace
Hog

[Fast355]

They are beautiful headers, and work well, I just wish there was a bit more collector, but there isnt room. Isnt this the 2nd set of Thorleys?
What diameter are the headpipes on those?

Nice buy.

peace
Hog

My 3rd set actually, my old red 83 brick had a set too. Headpipes bump up from 2.5" to 2.75". They have 2.5" collectors that step up to match the factory 2.75" exhaust .

[Fast355]

I got my hands on that Marine L31 intake fully dressed for $450 and it looks to be in very nice shape, although dusty from storage. I plan to clean it up tomorrow, strip it of un-needed marine parts, and paint it red like a Firehawk/LT4 intake.

[EagleMark]

It's amazing the quality of Doug Thorley Headers or any quality header for that matter when you look/feel/hold and compare them to cheap crap! Let alone install with no issues like spark plug clearence, gaskets not leaking and blowing out! Then look again after a year of use and they still look sweet too!

Nice photo how you got the sparkle from camara flash! :thumbsup:

[Fast355]

It's amazing the quality of Doug Thorley Headers or any quality header for that matter when you look/feel/hold and compare them to cheap crap! Let alone install with no issues like spark plug clearence, gaskets not leaking and blowing out! Then look again after a year of use and they still look sweet too!

Nice photo how you got the sparkle from camara flash! :thumbsup:

Thanks and yes I do agree on the install issues. Even the primaries are dimpled at the flanges for clearance for starting the required length of bolt for the thick flanges. Its steps like this and the ones mentioned above that made the Thorleys a steal for the price.

[Fast355]

The marine intake ended up cleaning up well the way it is. I am debating bead blastig some minor corrosion areas on it and repainting it or wire brushing the trouble spots and touching it up. I had a few things to do today and did not have a chance to start stripping it yet.

The more thought I put into the more my mind keeps telling me to stay with black and look stock from under the hood.

[34blazer]

The marine intake ended up cleaning up well the way it is. I am debating bead blastig some minor corrosion areas on it and repainting it or wire brushing the trouble spots and touching it up. I had a few things to do today and did not have a chance to start stripping it yet.

The more thought I put into the more my mind keeps telling me to stay with black and look stock from under the hood.

looks like a cast iron intake, that thing has to weigh a ton!

[Fast355]

looks like a cast iron intake, that thing has to weigh a ton!

The lower half is cast iron and the upper aluminum. It is goin to be a 2 person operation to set it into place. I will probably install the undressed base and assemble it on the van.

Despite having a fuel rail mounted regulator this thing was setup to run returnless as it has a capped fitting on the return line and I am considering AN lines in place of my factory rigid plastic lines I hate.

The boats distributor was vacuum vented as well.

[Hog]

That intake looks great. Mine was painted Mercruiser red all over. Good luck with your retrofit.

If you are planning on using the stock injectors, I had a set flowed and they came out at 25 lb/hr at 43.5 psi. Comes out to 28.9 lb/hr at 58 psi (4BAR) which is the pressure the marine regulator outputs with with the vaccuum reference unplugged. Plugged in pressure comes down to around 52psi.

peace
Hog