VATS delete

[Nu 2ner]

I am trying to do the VATS delete so my car won't have me sitting until the security light goes off every other time I try to drive it! My key is extremely worn out and will slide in or out of the ignition when it is already on or running. Also can turn the ignition without the key in it, but won't start do to no resistance value from key. I have already read numerous postings about doing this, and most of the m refer to 2 entries or switches to disable in TunerCat as well as disable the DTC 46. I'm using TunerPro RT for my tuning and am only seeing the one VATS switch and the DTC 46 switch. Any other switches or entries I need to disable? If anyone can help me on this I would greatly appreciate it! The car will still start with the key I'm using but not all the time, Security light comes on. I have tried to read the resistance value so I can get a resistor to bypassthe key portion, but am getting no reading on the key at all? Even when testing the key through the wires from the ignition switch I get no resistance value which is weird because last month I had started to do this and got a reading, just can't remember what the value was!

On another note, when I was trying to test the key value with the wires from the ign. switch, I turned the key on for a second and my gauges went all retarded and started jumping around, the rpm gauge pegged out and I could hear what I think was the injectors clicking? Really weird!:yikes:

[EagleMark]

What car and ECM/PCM?

Measure the key.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=4953&stc=1&d=1374419244

Put resistors in wiring harness under column to eliminate wiring going to key switch.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/attachment.php?attachmentid=4954&stc=1&d=1374419244

Or replace key switch and get correct new key...

[Nu 2ner]

Sorry, car is 94 z28 with 16188051 ecm. Like I said I got a reading from it before but with the same meter and a different one, I can't get a reading now for some reason? Do I even need this if I am tuning the VATS out and bypassing the relay? I was going to do the key trick to make it easier, but since I can't get a reading I have decided to tune it out. Thanks for your info.!

[RobertISaar]

if you're bypassing the relay AND removing the requirement from the PCM, you're covering both the starter disable and injector disable functions of the VATS module. no need to go with the resistor trick.

[bobdec]

On '93-95 LT1 F-Body's The theft Deterrent Module, besides running some diagnostics and checks does four things. 1- Reads the key pellet resistance. 2 - Picks Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR) that allows starter solenoid to pick. 3 - Sends a signal to the PCM (fuel enabled) that tells PCM to pick the injectors 4 - Controls the security indicator display (on/off/blinking). Programming the PCM only takes care of item #3. The pellet bypass fix takes care of all 4. Or you can buy a bypass module on ebay that will take care of all 4. Have no explanation on how testing the key resistance could cause what you saw. With the connector disconnected and reading the key end of the wires. The two wires only go to the pellet read contacts and are not tied to any other circuits, voltages or grounds. Assume you used something like this reading resistance back to the key cylinder w/key in it. http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg