Need a MEMCAL

[POZE]

Does anyone have a AUXF or ASTC memcal to sell? Or does anyone know of some places I can check for one?
Thanks

[RobertISaar]

i did a quick check of ebay but no dice.

[POZE]

I had a bad day. Was playing around with a borrowed S-10 and goofed up the MEMCAL while trying to copy the bin.
What are the chances the AUXM might work?
Bad MEMCAL = AUXF release 4-26-90 L38engine MD8 700R4 trans
AUXM release 5-9-90 L38 engine auto trans but the type of auto trans is not identified.
Alldata shows a 180c 3L30 trans along with the 700R4 in 1991.

[RobertISaar]

there's an AUXM BIN floating around.... if you have a modded MEMCAL or adapter, you could always test it in the truck to see if it still acts normally.

i did do a search on the p/n for the MEMCAL (16153765)and came up with this:

http://www.gmpartseast.com/parts/gm-16153765_calibrati.html

not exactly cheap though...

[POZE]

I get to eat some medicine. It's ordered. Thanks for the lead on the injector.

[RobertISaar]

mind if i ask what you did to kill the existing MEMCAL? static or physical damage?

[POZE]

Carelessly put it in the APU1 wrong. Notch toward handle. Dah!

[EagleMark]

AUXM release 5-9-90 L38 engine auto trans but the type of auto trans is not identified.
Platform code for this is Z1, maybe that would tell you what trans?

AUXF is platform code S10.

$59 for what? Can't be a memcal? If it's the calibration only how do they send it to you?

[RobertISaar]

$59 for a MEMCAL seems reasonable.

i did find one site that had the AUXF MEMCAL for a little over $5, but they marked it as discontinued.

[POZE]

I sure hope it's a MEMCAL . It says GM Calibrati by the part number.

[EagleMark]

Calibration is the bin file... $59 for a complete Memcal would be a decent price if it were for the entire Memcal for exactly what you need. Not so much the chip but the Netres and Knock board being correct!

[RobertISaar]

it has to be the entire MEMCAL if they're selling it with that part number.

[EagleMark]

Carelessly put it in the APU1 wrong. Notch toward handle. Dah!That's the way it goes? :innocent2:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeEremD4Pfw

[RobertISaar]

BTW: i've accidentally "erased" a 29F040B backwards before.... i've never felt an IC get so hot so quickly. oddly enough, it still works, didn't kill the prom or the burner.

i take it the old 27Cxxx PROMs don't stand up to the same accidents?

[EagleMark]

I'm pretty sure I have read them backwards without damage?

[POZE]

Wonder if trying to copy bin and having the wrong chip type selected could cause this? I know after it didn't copy with it in backwards I realized the wrong chip was selected in TPro. I am not so careful when it comes to static discharge while handling chips. So could be more to it than I originally thought.

[JeepsAndGuns]

Yea I have read chips and memcals both inserted backwards and with the wrong offsets selected. All I got was either a chip read error, or a bin file that was all kinds of screwed up when I tried to view it in TP. Every time, once I fixed the error of my ways, I was still able to read the chip fine. I'm with mark, I think something else happened.

[EagleMark]

You sure it's even bad?

Or did the offsets in AutoProm, Moates Prom IO were off and didn't read? They are known to be off. Does the memcal just not work in vehicle? Did a pin bend in PCM? I'm really curious! WHy? Because it has taken a long time for me to perfect all the wrong things to do and I haven't done this one! :laugh:

The only thing I can imagine is static and only reason that could happen is because you had to have a header in memcal to get static to chip?

[POZE]

Thanks to all that are trying to dig me out here. The dealer that Robert found that showed the new memcal doesn't have the part. They also list discontinued parts.
Anyone have experience using a manual bin for automatic. There is a flag for that but nothing seams to work as expected.
Truck starts in limp and scan tool won't recognize ecm. If i put in moats adapter and run my chip everything works fine in the shop.

[EagleMark]

Running an maual bin in an auto usually works fine, but not the other way around do to IAC logic for shifting.

But what trans? Not sure if TCC will work, some of the code crosses over from TCC lockup stuff to shift light in some masks so it works. Others have high gear switch polarity which may need to be changed?

So you can't even read the bin from Memcal now? Remember offsets do not work auto properly through TunerPro and Moates IO. Try Flash and burn stand alone? I think Six Shooter said it works.

[POZE]

It has the 4L60 700 r4. They also used the 180 c for 91. The AUXM in the bin library here is L38 auto but I don't know what type auto trans.
I think the memcal might might have been erased by forgetting to remove it from the Auto Prom and install the 512 chip before a reflash.

[EagleMark]

I'd try them both, auto would probably be better. But this is a mask that you probably know more of then anyone.

I've never tried to erase a eprom, they have to be UV light erasaed. Did you get the bin? If so UV erase and give it a shot... well you would need a differant burner for that.

[POZE]

I didn't get the BIN. So you don't think the TPro should erase that. Then it must have been static. I did have it setting with the reader adapter in it.

[EagleMark]

I'm a car guy that learned to use computers for cars.

That question is for a computer person. I have no idea what would happen to a UV erase chip if it were in a programmer and you tried to erase?

[RobertISaar]

i've tried it before.... nothing happened as far as i know. i stuck a factory MEMCAL into the HDR1, put it in the BURN2, read off the BIN, tried erasing it as a 27SF512, read it back, i THINK the BIN was identical....

but if it were put in backwards and attempted to erase, that's a different scenario... certain pins will not tolerate certain scenarios and you'll burn out the little links that you can see in the quartz window with the sticker removed.

i just mention static since it's that time of year. you don't have to see or even feel the arc for it to be enough to damage a PROM.