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View Full Version : lt1 hotcam tuning help?



jrgcjnl
09-21-2012, 11:15 AM
hey guys i recently installed an lt4 hotcam by itself on my car, since it had the old b-body cam and it wasn't helping much
anyways, i want to know if any of you guys could help me with the spark advance or maybe with a bin file? id really appreciate it
I can post up my current one to work from there but I'm not too sure about the spark advance tables
and since my stupid knock sensor broke, i cant really use it because it doesn't read right, so if anyone has a file for an lt1 (94-95) with headers, 3 inch y pipe and cut out, intake and the cam, could you please help me out?
I really appreciate it
oh and I haven't been online lately since i started college again :( I hardly had time to install the longtubes (took me about 4 days with no lift)
comp engineering FTW! :D

EagleMark
09-21-2012, 05:43 PM
Without a knock sensor I wouldn't push timing. Just use a B body Iron Head LT1 or even a Camaro timing table, you wouldn't be able to add much anyways...

jrgcjnl
09-22-2012, 02:00 AM
Without a knock sensor I wouldn't push timing. Just use a B body Iron Head LT1 or even a Camaro timing table, you wouldn't be able to add much anyways...
yeah thats why i was asking if someone already had one that i could maybe copy the tables from
i thought you could especially in idle and lower map cells?

jrgcjnl
09-22-2012, 02:02 AM
oh and are there any differences from a camaro and a b-body timing table? i am currently am using the camaro bin with 2 more degrees across both tables, and it wouldn't knock before (in 100+ heat) but that was before the sensor broke
and i want something more or less because it does run a little rough

EagleMark
09-22-2012, 08:06 PM
There are big differences in a B body (heavy car) and Corvette (light car) first. Then there's steel head B body and Aluminum head F and Y body. Aluminum heads disapate heat faster and can take more timing. So idle can be 8 degrees more and in some accelration 11 degrees...

The LT1 timing tables are very aggresive either way, this was in part do to reverse cooling the heads first. So you could get by with Aluminum head timing table till heat builds on a drive then start to detonate.

Your really playing with fire here and going to damage a motor without knock sensors (yes 2 in B body)

With steel head LT1 motor in B body I could only add 2 degrees and started to get some knock and retard at WOT and shift points without high test fuel. Now you have a lighter car and may get away with it?