lt1 4l60e to t56 tune/wiring

[fbody_Brian]

Thought someone might be able to help me out here.
I am pulling my automatic trans out this weekend and throwing in a t56, I've lost 3-4 gears one too many times now...

I have a 94 lt1 with the auto tune, and will obviously need to change it to a manual tune.
Would it be better to just change it to manual in my current tune, or to use a manual tune, diff it with my current tune and copy my engine tuning over to the manual tune?

My main concern is getting the reverse inhibit solenoid to function properly. I have read that the same pin is used for tcc pwm and reverse lockout. My 94 doesn't have pwm, so I'm thinking I might have to repin one wire (d6)
The pin out I found lists Transmission TCC PWM Sol Control (AUTO 1995+) or Reverse Inhibit Sol Control (Manual), just wondering if I will have issues with my 94


any input welcome. regardless it's going in this weekend, just would like as much info as possible before I get to that point.

Thanks

[sherlock9c1]

Sorry for your troubles. There is no reason someone shouldn't get 150k-200k miles out of a properly rebuilt 4L60E, and it doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg either. All anybody needs to know/do is here (https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/659-all-over-the-map-attacking-4l60-e-burnt-3-4-clutches-with-confidence).

I can't answer the specifics of your A4 to M6 conversion, but as far as BIN files go, I always prefer to modify the one in the car. I once had a very well known tuner send me a mail-order tune and TCC never worked after that, with multiple attempts by him to fix it. I just wired in a switch and controlled it manually. Years later I finally reloaded the stock BIN and TCC worked perfectly. I copied over his tables and mods and finally everything worked right.

[fbody_Brian]

There is no reason someone shouldn't get 150k-200k miles out of a properly rebuilt 4L60E
I agree, unfortunately I have been unlucky getting a properly rebuilt unit. The car is now on it's 3rd rebuild since I've had it, and it had been rebuilt at least once before I got it. The last time I just got one from a shop who specializes in 4l60e transmissions, well know vendor. It lasted 2-1/2 years of weekend driving,
I just can't bring myself to fork out another $2k for a rebuild

I remember reading about your tcc issue somewhere before.
I am going to try to just change what I need to in my tune and see how it goes. If I can't get it to work properly I will try a factory bin for a manual car.

[steveo]

you can just turn the automatic transmission flag off of your existing tune, worked fine the last time i did it. i think one error code comes up, forget which one, and just turn it off. your idle tables and DFCO will need to be altered. make sure your reverse lockout thresholds are sane too i forget what GM put there. probably turn the skip shift junk off too unless you plan on doing bizarre shifting moves that might slam you into reverse.

i highly recommend the T56 swap. more fun to drive. more power to the ground. more better

[fbody_Brian]

So my pcm didn't have a wire for pwm on D6, so I just moved D11 (tcc) to D6 and used that wire for reverse lockout . It works properly after a reflash with automatic trans unchecked. Copied the idle tables and DFCO from a factory 6 speed bin file.
Now I need to find out why neutral safety isn't working, I'm pretty sure it never worked, but being an auto It didn't seem important.
anyways thanks for the input.
t56 is more better for sure.

[steveo]

as long as you don't plan on selling or loaning the car, i find neutral safety to be a bit of a waste of time. if you don't hold the brake and clutch when starting the car you totally deserve what you get.

[fbody_Brian]

I might just have to copy my changes over to a manual bin. having issues.

Right now I've copied everything that I think I need over from a manual bin file, yet the car randomly dies when I push in the clutch to coast to a stop. it drops to around 300rpm and bounces a couple times, then either levels out or dies. Once it dies it takes a while for it to level out again after restart.

I am going to try one more time to get it to work with my current bin, there's some stuff in ee-extra that looks promising.
and there's tons of undefined differences between the auto and manual bin files.

At least I can drive above 40mph now!

[kur4o]

Can you post the tuned auto bin and the base manual. I can qiuck and easy copy all the engine related tables for you. You will definitely need more fine tuning later.

There is some specific manual related tables in engine side. stall save I think steveo named them. It prevents engine from stalling playing with spark advance.

[fbody_Brian]

Can you post the tuned auto bin and the base manual. I can qiuck and easy copy all the engine related tables for you. You will definitely need more fine tuning later.

There is some specific manual related tables in engine side. stall save I think steveo named them. It prevents engine from stalling playing with spark advance.

I'll post them when I get home from work this evening.
Thanks

[fbody_Brian]

Can you post the tuned auto bin and the base manual. I can qiuck and easy copy all the engine related tables for you. You will definitely need more fine tuning later.

There is some specific manual related tables in engine side. stall save I think steveo named them. It prevents engine from stalling playing with spark advance.
Here's my current tune and a factory 94 t56 bin

[fbody_Brian]

I ended up using the diff tool in tunerpro to move my changes over to the factory manual bin and am happy to report that the issue is completely gone now.